Eck

All I can say is if a tornado is coming just watch the water in your toilet bowl....If it disappears (goes down the drain) you better duck because the tornado is outside your door.. The air pressure in your house will change dramatically and the first sign of air pressure change is the water in the toilet begins to move a little and then it goes down the drain all by itself. Once the water disappears this means the windows and roof could, or is, about to blow out, so make darn sure you have a motorcycle helmet (any helmet) on while watching the toilet water and have a heavy quilt/ blanket to cover up with and a pillow to cover your face from glass and such. The blanket and pillows should be placed in your bath tub so that you can jump from the toilet to the tub and get under cover quickly If you have a storm shelter, don't be Macho man and wait until the tornado is in your yard before you head out to the shelter...I see where many try to "out smart" the tornado and yet they know nothing about a storm or what type of clouds to look for. Be safe folks, tornado season is upon us.

SO who here on the forum has taken the time to open this thread and start reading at the beginning of post 1 - thru - post 190, following along to get the real story that has been posted

I have seen where tornados hit mobile home parks and I have seen where tornados have hit neighborhoods filled with very well structured homes, even cities with built constructed of everything known to man and all areas are devastated and or flattened. Oh, I do agree now that a well structured home makes your chances of survival a tid bit better rated over that of a mobile home, but in my opinion, an underground storm shelter is about the only real safety one has in a tornado. I have a well built brick home. All my neighbors have well built brick homes, but last year I had an underground storm shelter installed because of the devastation I have seen. Why does the Government allow mobile homes to be placed in tornado alley you ask...As soon as I read your question, my first thoughts were the same as Randy had, like why are there homes on the coastal mountains where heavy rains cause mud slides, why rebuild in ANY area where Katrina hit. Earth quakes, mud slides, over-flowing river banks, hurricanes, tornados and even volcanos....they happen everywhere and in every country, so I have to ask, where is this safe haven one can live on earth without EVER being in fear of total loss from Mother nature? Please don't take my off the wall question as being sarcastic, for that is not my intent here, but I don't know of a safe place (or structure) where one can live with out any worry when Mother nature decides to unleash her furry.

I sure hope they figure out what is wrong with that old ticker quickly and your able to get up and about without that yukie feeling. Didn't know about the April scheduled rally on the leak, but hope the pacer is corrected by then and that everything goes great with your surgery Puc. I haven't met you (yet) but sure plan on doing so... as some say, ...... as soon as our stars line up..

Funny you posted this, for I too was thinking of Puc and if he got his leakage plugged for good..

No biggie Chaharly.. We are constantly trying to ensure all threads are in their correct forum section on the site. Ride safe! Eck

This thread has been moved from the Watering Hole section to the First Generation Venture Talk Section

This thread has been moved from the watering hole to the 1st generation Venture talk section.

Sooooo after I have my morning coffee and read a few emails and or posts, take a guess what I will be doing today..75 /78 degrees, sunny, hummm.

Sound like your fuse burnt out before your independence day / big bang happened. Good thing it did cause it sure sounds like you made the right decision bud!

You did what most every VR family member would do towards another rider and I would do business with you anytime. The only thing different that I would have done was I would have also sent the OP a private email letting him know that I was going to buy the item(s) if he did not respond to the seller with in 24 hours, and I would have CC copied the seller on this same email so he knew I was a serious buyer. If no response was taken within that 24 hour period, then contact the seller and close the deal.

Here is all of them that I know of Skid except for Boo... VentureRider.org - Home

I went ahead and swapped out the old secondary with a newer one that came off of a wrecked 2012 GW, and hopefully (fingers crossed here) the air seepage into my rear brake system is now fixed. With that being said, I don't want to waste another minute of my retirement time on Honda... I just want to ride and keep the lesson learned in the back of my mind. From this day forward I will call and speak with the dealership manager and explain this incident and then tell him that I want to "stand back" out of the way, but watch as they perform any recall that I am effected by. If the manager says no, I must wait in the service brake area, then I will NOT let them perform the recall and will call another dealership.

Used dentures for sale, missing two teeth- front- $100.00, price firm.

Factory recalls. Honda sent one out back in 2012 on certain Goldwing 1800's for the secondary master cylinder - I took mine in back in 2012 and waited for them to check it out. 20 minutes later, my name was called to the service Dept., so I walk back there and they tell me that my bike is OK.. I said great and they gave me a paper showing that they checked my bike out. I was having problems with mine so yesterday I went back to the same place in south Huntsville and asked them if they could tell me if the recall was actually "performed" on my bike. She wrote down the serial number and went to the puter, typed it in, printed out and handed me a paper showing me (with her finger on the paper) where they "REPLACED" my secondary master cylinder back in 2012.. I said mamm, I have heard you guys are really good here, but not even you or one of your mechanics could have replaced that secondary master cylinder in 2012. She said, OH, but we did, I am showing you we did it right here..(as she pointed on the paper). I said Yes mamm, I know you are showing me that IS what the paper says, but with all the knowledge that you have could you please look at the "TIME" it took you to replace it that is next to where you are pointing on the paper.. It shows 15 minutes that you had my bike and there is NO DANG way that anyone can replace the secondary master cylinder in 15 minutes plus bleed the brake system completely. I said, SO mamm, do you by chance even think there is a remote possibility that you typed in the wrong time here. She said possibly I did. I said well I know for a fact that you didn't because I was only here 20 minutes in your waiting room when I brought it here in 2012. SO that leads me to the next question: Do you by chance think there is a remote possibility that you typed this report up saying the secondary master cylinder was replaced when in fact all that was done was a visual inspection. She said heck no...........I know I didn't type this up wrong. I said well you just said a second ago that you could have put in the wrong time, but now your saying you didn't make a mistake at all. You are confusing me with your answers....Unreal.. SO my rant is this when it comes to any factory recall - even if its on a cage.. The factory/dealer wont let you watch, they make you sit in the waiting room or better yet, have you come back later that day to pick it up.. This leave no way at all for one to tell if the factory/dealer actually performed exactly what the recall states that they will perform on your vehicle. Then once they type whatever in their computer, that is IT!!!! You have no recourse to prove otherwise if they didn't do what they were supposed to do. I know for a fact that they did not replace the secondary master cylinder on my GW. They couldn't have in 15 minutes or even 30 minutes.. Be cautious when taking your bike / vehicle in for any factory recall. Heck, it was on the news today that brand new cars are being sold off the lot with OPEN recalls...........this tells me that they do NOT care about anyone's safety This left me no choice: So, earlier I posted this thread on replacing mine today - http://www.venturerider.org/forum/honda-goldwing-tech-talk/99851-gw-air-rear-brake-system.html#post899756

Yes, I would think it would be a sufficient / good ground.

Here is another issue I have had with my wing for over a year now. Hopefully this will help someone out there who runs into the same problem. My rear brake system kept getting air into the system, yet I did not notice any loss in brake fluid and if there was it was very little. WHAT you ask, how can that be...How can air get into the system and yet your not loosing any fluid? Well, like I said, if it was leaking fluid, I could not see /find "where" and every time I had to bleed the rear brakes the rear master was always seemed to be full. I spent months looking for a darn leak, swapped out the rear caliper with one off a 2012 GW, and I even removed all the brake pads inspecting for signs of brake fluid in calipers /pistons and on brake pads themselves, and countless times bleeding the rear brakes, which in my case, consisted of bleeding ONLY the top bleeder on the rear caliper. I never got air out of the lower rear caliper bleeder just the top one. Well today, I decided to swap out the secondary master cylinder (which is located above the left front caliper) and bleed the entire brake system completely. So, after I removed the old secondary master, I noticed there was fluid spots on the inside / backside, Far-side, OK, I will call it the "tire side" of the master cylinder. The fluid spots were not able to be seen just by looking at the secondary master cylinder without removing it. Sure enough, it was leaking brake fluid, and now I really feel this was my root cause of having air seeping into the brake system. I could, but wont test ride it now due to it is raining, so I spent the rest of the day cleaning and waxing her up. Now I will wait for some nice weather and take her out for a test ride.. I can tell already that my front brake lever is a LOT different (way better) then it has ever been. The rear peddle feels like it is right there on first stroke so hopefully I found and solved the problem. If you have a problem with your GW of getting air into the rear brake system and cant see where the leak is, I strongly suggest you remove the front wheel and then you will be able to visually see and inspect the inside surface area of the secondary master cylinder. I say to remove the front wheel because I think this is far easier to do than to break apart two brake lines to remove the secondary master only to find out that it may NOT be leaking. Then you would have to bleed the entire brake system. It is a lot easier to just reinstall the front wheel and move on to other possibilities. I feel my GW is now 100% with everything working like it should and is ready to ride all year now with that utmost confidence..!! Edit: Wanted to add this tid bit of info: You will need a #40 torx socket to remove the secondary master cylinder. The torx bolt has RED loc-tight on it from the factory and it is common for the person who is removing this torx bolt to strip the nut that is welded on the back. I "wiggled" the torx back and forth a few times as I was removing it.. Break it loose, then tighten it a little, break it loose a little farther than you did the first time, and then tighten it up a little and continue doing this until it is removed.

Im on a mini bike web site and a FB mini bike site and it is amazing what those old mini bikes sell for... I see them for $200 to $500 all the time..and some are in very ruff condition.. Last year I acquired two Wheel horse lawn tractors and they were not running for 12 to 15 years. I decided to tear into those and see if I could get them running. I did and ended up selling both of them and all the attachments that came with them. I enjoyed doing that. Never seen one before and to take one apart and fix it and getting them to run sure made me feel good

I started restoring a fully electric mini bike.. Auranthetic Charger is what it is called.. I am not sending out the chrome parts to be re-chromed.. but other than that it is 100% torn down and I am in the process now of getting it back together. Frame and parts have all been repainted except for the "fake" gas tank. I will paint it in about three weeks from now. Started re-assembly 03-18-15 but I am working at a slow pace on purpose to do it right. It gives me something to do on rainy days!! Here are a few pics of before and after. In the first couple pics you can see how the battery acid tore up the paint job.. The last two pics (pic-1838 and pic-1839) are pics of the re-assembly going on after fresh paint. Man, did I hi-jack my own thread or what here....ha

Now I have been told many times that I am bad...but not bad to the bone..(ha).. The real reason I posted was to post step by step what I did to fix my cruise / brake switch for those who own GW's and run into the same problem. Only passing on some helpful hints / or info in hopes of helping someone out one day.......:happy34:

Unreal...I would have never guessed that to be the reason. Reminds me of a story I reluctantly want to admit too... Back in 1970, I had a 66 ford Fairlane GT and the radiator sprung a leak while I was in TX on my way to Calif. I made it to an exit (location unknown), and I tore the radiator out and called a radiator repair shop who came to that exit and picked up my radiator and I. Went to the shop where the guy fixed it. He brought me back to my car and he left and I installed it. Filled it up with water, and took off down the on-ramp trying to make up some time.. I never made it to the interstate...and I heard this God awful sound. Next thing I see is a bunch of steam coming out from under the hood. I pull over and raised the hood only to find the radiator fell back into and was stuck in the fan blade. (DUH)... Would you believe I forgot to install the mounting bolts thru the radiator to bolt it in. I only installed the upper and lower hose's and didn't install one dang bolt.. I can honestly admit that smoking pot back then wasn't such a good idea..

Aircraft maintenance...Cool beans.. I'm retired now but I switched back and forth from being a manufacturing engineer and a quality engineer for 35 plus years in aerospace - Started with Gulfstream Aerospace in Savannah for 15 years, then went to work for Boeing on the Delta II, Delta IV rockets, then it became United Launch Alliance which included the Atlas V Rockets, then I went to Airbus on the 350Wide Body, left that and went to Charleston to help out on the new Boeing 787, then I left there and went to Aurora Flight Sciences who makes drones and other assemblies for Sikorsky helicopters and Gulfstream airplanes.

I just have to pick on Brake pad.. He's OK in my book!

A common problem from what I hear is the front brake / cruise switch, located under the right hand front brake lever, is most always the culprit as to why the cruise quits working or the brake lights quit working / flicker. My cruise quit working yesterday.. So, today I took a Phillips screw driver and removed the one and only screw that holds this switch in place. I slide the rubber protective boot back on the wire harness being careful not to pull any of the (4) wires off the switch as I slid the boot back. Once the boot was slid back far enough to expose the (4) wires, I quickly drew a picture of the switch, and the (4) terminals and labeled each terminal as to wire color that is connected to it. Then I slid the wires off the terminals. Now with the switch in my hand, I saw that there is are two tiny holes in the housing. In one hold I could see the contacts. I filled a small plastic cap with contact cleaner and soaked the switch for about 20 minutes periodically pushing the two tabs on the outside of the housing manually operating the brake light contacts and the cruise contacts. I then took a large straight pin and flattened the tip of the pin on my vise, and then bent it at about a 35 to 45 degree angle. As I manually opened the contacts inside the switch (looking thru the small hole) I inserted the flattened / bent end of the pin into this hole and carefully scuffed up the contacts. I was able to spin the pin around while still in the switch, and clean the opposite side of the contacts. I dipped the switch and pin into the contact cleaner solution, manually operated the switch and scuffed the contacts.. I then air blew the switch dry and then re-connected the (4) wires to their correct terminal and slid the rubber boot back up over the wires and terminals. Installed the one and only Phillips screw making sure the brake lever did in fact push in on both switch tabs sticking out the side of the housing. I went for a ride and my cruise now works again.. I rode down to the Honda dealer and ordered a new switch ($14.00) and they said they will call me when it comes in. I will continue to use my old brake / cruise switch as installed, but if it ever quits again, I will have the correct replacement switch available and ready to install.. This took me about 30 minutes total to remove the switch, soak, scuff and clean it, and then reinstall it. If I ever have to just swap out the switch it should take 5 minutes.. Very easy to do.