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Eck

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Everything posted by Eck

  1. One major thing you said tends for me to say it is NOT the dreaded whine...You said it only happends after the engine is warmed up... Another thing that tends me to believe it is NOT the dreaded whine is you also said: It only seems to happen in 5th gear.. Questions: Do you know if they greased the foward and aft end drive shaft splines? Do you know if the also greased the rear wheel "hub splines" Did they remove either wheel (front or rear)? If so, maybe they over tightend it and the wheel bearing begins to grind after it warms up?? I myself tend to believe it is NOT the dreaded whine based on your statements, however I am sure someone else will chime in and tell you what they think.
  2. Eck

    Doing okay

    sure am happy to hear you got out of this one as you did. Hope you have the upper hand in the insurance game too...
  3. Ok, I may be talking out my (@*@) ...butt here, since I have never seen a 1st gen pet cock valve, but if it is anything like the 2nd gen valve off the side of the gas tank, you might be able to try this stupid idea... you all know me by now..... Take a small plastic sandwich bag (or something simular) and can cut it with sisors to make it even smaller to where you can wrap it around the pet cock valve using a bread bag ty-wrap to hold it in place. Take a straw and put it into the spray cap of your WD-40 can and then spray the WD 40 into the bag by either poking a very small hole in the top of the plastic bag, (or better yet, loosen the ty-wrap), but fill the bag with the WD-40 penetrating fluid and tie it back shut. Let is soak over night or for a few days... MAYBE....just MAYBE...this will help lubricate it and disolve the rust enough to where you use plyers to move it back and forth to free it up. Then you can put it on reserve and leave it, or just keep it lubricated..?? HEY.........its only a thought.....
  4. Not sure of an answer to your question Swifty, but I sure am glad you made it home safe. Thought you would enjoy these pictures too....... (see attached)..
  5. Sure looks strong enough, but I bet it would be kind of tough to work on the drivers side though...
  6. Suggestive things you could look at: (1) Is the fluid in the clutch master cyclinder a dark color? If so flush the entier system and replace with fresh fluid. (2) If the fluid is clear, then try bleeding your clutch system. (3) Also, you might put some oil on the hinge point of the lever. This should free it up unless there is something else wrong
  7. Nope, I wasnt falling at all......Just looking whre my feet were going up the stone steps. That was the second beer I was drinking at that moment. I wanted to be sure I didnt fall in fron tof eveyone and look stupid............. Im just happy to see he didnt get the picture of me on my bike when I was leaving...talk about coming close to dropping it...wow...that was close!
  8. Wait till your next to Eddies bike, ,,,,,I'll cover ya.........
  9. My choice: http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=53-113 Other options: http://www.durasafe-usa.com/helmet.htm http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=GUARDIAN
  10. You can print it out from here anytime for nothing...its free... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=90
  11. Man I hate to hear this...So sorry for you loss too....... But I must say.......that is one HOT bike!!!
  12. Neat trick!!!!!!!!! Got to put this in my memory bank.. OPs, I better print it out and put this in my bike... Thanks a bunch.
  13. Gibvel, Please exxplain....I'm much interested in what you mean here??? BTW, the fake screws in the side covers and the center covers under the seat will work for that bolt, just in case it happens again. Do you mean if my shifter bolt fell out, I could remove one of the "fake screws" and use it as a replacement screw for my shifter??? or... do you mean I can remove a fake screw on one of the side covers and replace that fake screw, with a correct size screw needed IN CASE the shifter came off? Gosh I hope that made sence to you...
  14. Clearview with a vent, and you can leave the lowers on!!!!!!!
  15. SO.........ah........thanks for the idea... a mirrored ball hanging under the trunk huh?...hum...???
  16. Stu, I do not use super glue. I highly reccomend using black RTV adhesvie... You can always "remove" the foot peg cover if you want to, with out damaging the peg cover or the bike in any way. I use it all the time on most things (like your grips), and it only costs a buck at the dollar store.. It can be used to install mood lights also. I find th edouble back tape has become soft due ot the excessive heat (104 degrees down here) and a couple of my mood lights came loose. SO I used the RTV adhesvie, and it seems to be working just fine. The RTV adhesive can also be removed with WD-40, leaving no marks......or damage to painted surfaces as super glue would.. Just my 2 cents.....
  17. Using one hand, work the screw driver all the way around it in cirlces breaking it loose from the steel rod it is on, and at the same time pull on it towards you with the other hand..It will come off, but is a slow process.. NOTE: The Kuryakyn slip-on cover DOES NOT go OVER the OME rubber cover
  18. My Prayers and thoughts are with your friends, and you....
  19. I only know of the Yamaha stock passing lamps...... no mods required for installation either.
  20. Well luckily, your still under warrenty........but sounds like it could be the battery.. Just hope that paint job isnt shorting it out...lol
  21. Eck

    Trunk Bib

    I couldnt find one with studs, so I put studs on mine myself. Bought the bib from JC Whitney for about $35.00 and the studs from Michaels craft store, measured the bib out to space them evenly, and just put them in myself. I also did my stock tank bib..and my floor boards Here are some pics:
  22. Sorry BradT, if I may have mis-lead your thoughts, but I do wipe off all excess squeese out on outside of plug / connector. What remains on the out side is a very small bead between both the male and female sections (which you really dont see), and it provides a moisture barrier between both sections of the connector plug. Hope this makes sence..
  23. Jack, Silicone Dielectric Grease is a non curing silicone compound utilized for sealing, protecting electrical components and connectors and you are correct, it is NON conductive.. It waterproofs and protects against moisture and other contaminants in electrical connections. Silicone Dielectric Grease is a translucent white in appearance, and is compatible with most plastics. I personally apply it in,on and around the connector
  24. Ah-heck, you just got to go ahead and do your air filter mod, take pictures as you go, and then when finished, add a good write up article explaining what and how you did it, and post it here so it can be used as a tech article ....... you know,,,,,for dummies like me...
  25. At 75 mph 30 mpg is all your going to get The poping sound on de-cel, you might be able to eliminate by plugging your AIS system... There is a tech article that Freebird did with pics, on how to do this in the tech seciton.
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