Eck
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Everything posted by Eck
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That's great news Patti.. Hope you get your license soon.. then you can have B2dad wash and wax it after your done riding it...
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Greasing Swing Arm bearings?
Eck replied to Sleeperhawk's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Ref: 3rd pic... Somewhere in the very "CENTER" of that aluminum housing, preferably on the "BOTTOM" side, so that you can always get to the zerk fitting from underneath the bike in the future, and never have to remove it again..(and you have another email saying same). never mind... it wont work due to drive shaft hole.... -
Greasing Swing Arm bearings?
Eck replied to Sleeperhawk's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
George, I sent you an email with the only information I had on removing the swing arm. Sorry I don't live closer, or I would help you so I could learn about it too..... -
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Using the removed bolt, take a pair of calipers and measure the threaded shank diameter of that removed bolt. Next find a drill bit that is .010 to .015 thousands LESS- or- SMALLER in diameter. Using a slow speed drill motor, drill into the center of the HEAD, of the stripped out bolt. The head of the bolt may come off and it may not but keep drilling and continue drilling into the shank of the stripped bolt until you have removed enough of the shank to get the gas tank off with out bending the tab on the gas tank. Next, find a smaller diameter drill bit (about .025 smaller) and drill down the center of the shank of the un-removed bolt doing your darnedest to stay in the middle of the shank. Go slow...and straight...You only have to drill about .125 deep Next use an EASY OUT and carefully try to remove the stripped bolt. Once it has been removed, I suggest you use a metric tap and re-tap the hole to "chase" the threads. Get a new replacement bolt and apply a little grease before inserting and tightening.
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Blackjack, Thank you very much for the updated info. So sorry to hear Paul had to go back in again for the serious infection and hope he pulls through well. Our thoughts and prayers are with him.
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Yes, you can ride it 10 plus miles safely using just the front brakes, by providing extra stopping space and using good cautionary riding skills. Sounds like the caliper is leaking, or you have a hole in the brake hose / line.
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Jonesy, You are most welcome! I'm just happy to be of some help to someone who was in need.
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I've been called a jack of all trades - but master of none. Like many here, I have been around the block a few times and have learned a whole lot from listening and watching others. I feel a lot of my abilities were gained from the mistakes others made and of course learning from my own mistakes but most of my knowledge I feel I earned by taking "adventures" trying to fix something I didn't know a darn thing about. Like tearing something apart that was broke and miraculously finding out what the problem was and then putting it back together and having it actually work. I have always been intrigued to disassemble something just to find out how it works. And now, thanks to the wonderful world of web surfing, I do feel a whole lot smarter...
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Pegster, So good to see a posting from you again. Man its been a while. Seems like its been two years already..? I don't remember hearing from you since you got hitched, and I cant blame you either by looking at that wedding photo on your profile page.. I cant help you with your question being its on a 1st gen, but just wanted to say welcome back home and its good to hear from you again.
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spray air the hose going from valve to rear shock with soapy water at all connections, then put more air in shock as you watch for bubbles... You might have to remove the drivers seat and right side cover to see the air line hose going to the rear shock.
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Is this what your looking for..?
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Good News Dan....Glad she is feeling better..... and the mouth is working, when that happens, it seems to be a good clue everything will be OK....!!!
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I have no experience with them either but I do see it will cost you: Annual Full Membership $44.95 Don't forget to look at this VR assistance list...it's free... print it out and keep the list on your bike in case you ever need road way assistance. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/memberlist.php?&field12=2&order=asc&sort=location&pp=30&page=1
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I feel lucky to be a very small part of it too. Thanks "Freebird"..
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Sounds like the floats are stuck -or sticking. Revving it up takes a "shot" or two of gas but when under a load (when riding), it requires a lot more gas and it requires it 'continually". If your carbs are stuck, in a certain position, or sticking and not "floating freely" they may not be letting the required fuel in fast enough and this makes you run the carbs dry quickly and that is why I feel it wont run when riding it. If the carbs are working freely and properly, then you may have a fuel hole clogged which wont let fuel in on the inlet side of the carbs or the outlet side where the fuel travels from the carb bowels to the outlet tube. I do not feel it is anything electrical from what you have explained so far...
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I would say it is a Loose connection. I would start by splitting the fairing and when standing in front of bike, looking aft, on your left hand side of cassette player you will see several large connectors grouped together. Carefully, pull one connector apart at a time, inspect, and then apply some dielectric grease on the female part of the connector and then re-mate the connector, DO next connector and so on until all have been taken apart and had the dielectric grease applied. This should take care of your problem. Also under neath the rear passenger seat is another connector that you could apply the dielectric grease to also. Note: You can pick up dielectric grease at any local auto store for about 3 bucks Sample of dielectric grease shown at this link electrical http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=8196
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Randy, Standing with everyone else, our hearts are saddened from hearing this awful news. Our hearts and prayers go out to you, your children, and your wife as you all try to cope with this and we hope our words bring comfort and strength your way, knowing all of us are with you and your family. We wish all of you the best.
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Please forgive me but I may be wrong with my above statement. I should not have provided and answer since I really am not sure. I posted what I "thought" to be true and it may not be gospel.
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The wires going to the horn will NOT be HOT until you turn on the key and then HIT THE HORN BUTTON..the juice has to pass through the horn relay first
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Very nice job. That will keep some of the small things from rattling in the trunk against the plastic. I have a large piece of black trunk liner and I just may do mine.. Gee, thanks for the great idea..just what I needed...another project to do now..
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Looks really really nice there B2Dad.. Not sure if that will help it keep up with my GW or not, but it sure looks good... But I will ride with you again anytime.