CaseyJ955

That is cool, your running pods with no other mods/tuning changes? No adjustment to the AF screws or anything? It jumped off the page to me because his description of the issue does match the very common result of the modification he also described. If I were in his neck of the woods I'd be at his door with an airbox under my arm to confirm or RO the filter assy as the culprit. Without standing in front of the bike it's hard to know anything 100% but this rings very familiar with my Yammy V4 experiences and many other Yamaha V4 forum posts I perused as I considered what to do with my own bikes. It could be any number of things but in my own experience the pods are overwhelmingly likely to be causing his troubles. (or some of his troubles). I recall a post with pics of a VMX with pods and the same Sx described by the OP, he partially covered the pods with aluminum foil and found it suddenly ran great with this band-aid. The OP stated it was hard to get a sync as it sits, I also had to replace the airbox/filter (Venture) or use correctors (Vmax) to be able to put a satisfactory tune on either. I live at 4000' elevation and tune a little lean.

My experience lies mostly in Gen1, but for gen2 I'm about 98.34% positive the vent tubes are the same as the carbs are basically the same. Vent tubes should be larger diameter, soft, and fairly easy-ish pull from the tops of the carbs, no need to remove or split the racks. Fuel lines maybe but for the overflow lines, those should be workable with no further disassembly. The Gen2 I saw in person was visually indistinguishable from Gen1 or Vmax with regards to carb setup/fuel system. If they are stiff or brittle that might be a problem, but even after 32 years, the gen1 are still soft and pliable. I had my Gen1 VMX running fuel out onto the ground like that before, wanted to know which one before I pulled the rack and this is how I quickly got that info. Luckily once I had the correct carb and took a chance on draining and a bit more tapping, and it worked. Any Gen2 folks here confirm/deny any changes in the overflow tubing between G1 and G2? I dont want to mislead, I'm trying to confirm now. Edit. Cant find to many good pics, but by one or two maybe the plumbing is different for the overflows.

Pods, for some reason I was thinking a drop-in, sorry. Yea, I would start with the air correctors or getting an OEM airbox and filter. I got my correctors from Morleys Muscle, ya just tap them in and seat them. You can remove them later but are not reusable after removed. Just four little brass thingies and my guess is you will be happy, as you would be if you found an OEM airbox. Either way and I'm pretty sure you will see a real improvement. http://www.morleysmuscle.com/ I'll bet he has some in stock. I tuned my Vmax with all his stuff and I'm pretty darn pleased with it.

Just for fun, if you have the paper OEM air filter go ahead and throw that in and see what happens. The K&N may not be providing enough resistance to flow, the CV carbs rely on that to run right. There is a workaround for this, but try that first and see if it goes in the right direction. A workaround, if this turns out to be related to the air filter being to free flowing. See the extra brass bit next to the jet, ya get those and slip them in and they fool the carb into playing nice with a free flowing air filter. Here is a pic of the filter that replaces the lid on my Vmax (Same as Venture carbs). I think the plugs are like $20 from Morleys Muscle. When I tried a K&N in my Venture I ended up going back to paper OEM filter. Food for thought.

If your headed this way dont expect to get through any SD reservation land, they are turning away rally, and most other traffic r/t Chinavirus concerns. Commercial and emergency vehicles, and local/reservation residents are about all allowed through I hear. I know it's stunning scenery and away from the super slab but they will turn you around at the checkpoint. Hopefully this will save someone some backtracking and having to talk to authority figures at a checkpoint. These checkpoints are not rally related and have been up since not long after the virus became an issue. Watch for deer, be safe, enjoy!

If your looking at coming at months end then you obviously identified the best times to hit the hills. If you do end up this way hit me up, I live here in the hills and I'd be happy to join you for some hills riding. Also if your camping I have wooded private space here west of Rapid. There may still be isolated gaggles of HDs lumbering around but by months end there will be plenty of space just slip past them. Weekend can still be a little congested in the hills but weekdays are spectacular. I hope you get the carbs sorted, if you pull the vent tubes and turn on the key for a moment you should see the offending carb. Also make sure all those vents are clean and clear with no kinks. Worst case maybe just slide the rack out and drop the one bowl. Good news is that the second time removing a carb rack goes a lot faster than the first time. Good luck with the fix. You have my #.

A couple thoughts. 1. Glad your alright and the bike is still intact is another bonus, you got your gravity storm out of the way with minimal damage/injury! That is a huge win! 2. Bro, you gotta run stop signs faster! Glad you got it picked up okay, I can barely get the damn thing on the ctr stand. Glad your okay!

HDs are common around here to the point of monotony. It's like looking at a parking lot full of SUVs and minivans. The cool part of that is that something different can pop to the surface. I think by the 90th, bike diversity will be way up and the overall numbers will be way down. I'm not sure what that means for us Venture riders other than we shall see each other more easily and be able to erase our chicken strips in the hills. That is not currently easy during rally week! If this is your first time in the hills watch out for hooved rats (deer)!! Be safe and enjoy! PS, 250k riders is considerably smaller than a couple previous rallys back when HD had the younger demographic too. I know we got close to a cool mil at least a couple times.

I had the same issue (brakes delinked). I have replaced the rear caliper for one off the front of an R6, still no joy. I removed the caliper and lifted it up and positioned it so the bleeder was as high as I could get it. That seemed to do the trick. Before I did the bleeding I gently pushed the pistons back enough to get a piece of ceramic tile between the pads, tile being only slightly thicker than the rotor it worked and the caliper slipped back on nice and easy. Even vacuum bleeding did not work for me on this one. I did that a couple years back and I noticed it's a little soft again this spring.

I think I was caught asleep and missed a chapter or two, did you not have a brand new gen3? Does the HD hit a spot that the Gen3 missed? I hope you did not have a gravity storm! You sure love the narrow twins, dontcha? Also if your making Sturgis HMU, you can camp on my wooded land outside Rapid and use the shower/laundry. I hope all is well, what with the musical bikes and all not caused by any misfortune I hope.

I successfully run 85 oct in both my V4s, usually I'll go premium or the lowest grade does not have ethanol. Often our mid grade fuels are tainted with ethanol but premium or regular often are pure gasoline. I've seen 0 advantages to running premium in either my Venture of Vmax outside of ethanol avoidance. Float levels for Vmax but exactly the same spec for Venture. http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prody11.html If you end up needing carb parts stick with OEM or K&L. Skip the discounted ebay stuff! Be careful handling the slides, they are brittle and expensive. It might need not much more than cleaning out the corn squeezings, reassembly and synchronization. I effen hate ethanol!

I'm going to err on the side of caution here, I'm going to suggest you take your temp and call your PCP to discuss your symptoms. Then, consider his input before you decide what to do (By that I mean call and get in to get screened for the Chinavirus). With only the greatest due respect, your in a demographic that has less wiggle room on this thing. There are literally countless other things it could be but your Dr. knows all about your risk factors and comorbidity that none of us do. I encourage you to call your Dr and go from there. Keep us posted and I'm sending you some positive energy. Good luck and I hope you get to feeling better.

I'm not sure what they go for but my 89 has a hitch that I use about as often as the stereo (never). If this bike doesn't sell by winter it's going on a very strict diet which will see removal of the hitch and about 80% of the electronics and CLASS system. If you really need one and cant find one handily enough PM me. If you have any friends coming through Sturgis this year I can hand it off to them (in Rapid City) for you rather than boxing/shipping. I hope you find one that fits!

It's worth it! few things suck more than getting the bike out and getting all geared up only to find you can barely keep it running w/o choke. When I'm in charge of the world corn will return as a delectable side dish and sweet petroleum/dinosaur bones will continue to be fuel, at least until we arrive at a place where electricity makes sense. If you do end up having to buy carb parts, go for K&L or OEM, seriously skip the unbranded stuff or you will end up with a lot more carb R&R experience than you want. If your looking to tour in comfort this one should make the initial hassle worthwhile. This is a handy reference you do pull the rack, it's for the Vmax but it's the same spec and adjustment. http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prody11.html

Motorsports sales were tough before the Chinavirus, he would have had to halve the price a year ago, now it's likely he will end up keeping it. Since he's starting at 4k he's VERY VERY lofty, especially for the times. I would pass on that one. I'm asking half that for mine and it comes with several upgrades and a pair of Vmax heads/cams. When I notice them around I usually see decent ones for around 2k or less, rarely more. Whatever you decide, good luck with your search, the right one at the right price will present I'm sure.

I've done this a time or two on the Vmax, it often works, sometimes not. On the Vmax the carbs can be pulled in about 15 min, on the Venture it's a bit more of a knuckle buster so we'll hope the Shotgun method works. The ride-ability symptoms match plugged jets pretty nicely. As your doing the Shotgun method please note that any time the airbox lid or filter is NOT securely in place it will run like ****, this is normal with the CV carbs as they rely on the intake restriction to run correctly. This wont help you right now but one way to avoid problems with carbs is to avidly avoid ethanol tainted fuels. When I must use it it seems okay if I'm touring and I ride every day, but I do use a couple oz of Seafoam with each tank and before I park it for any length of time (esp over winter) I make sure and run enough pure gasoline through it to flush the ethanol from the fuel system. By following this I've not had to futz with the carbs in a long while, other than synchronizing 1-2 times a season just to keep it crisp and snappy. I hope the shotgun works, keep us posted.

I know they have algorithms on how to most effectively barrage products (To Google, YOU are the product, not the customer) with adverts most likely to make you spend. Had you bought any bicycle related stuff online ever? Maybe the compiled how often customers that buy bicycle parts shop and average all that out to flash you some adverts when it's about time for you to spend some bicycle money. I know it sounds silly but they are very serious about monetization and no piece of your privacy is sacred to them in their quest to make that happen. It was many years ago before I started to realize how greasy many (all that I've dealt with) big tech companies are, I got an ad on my browser that went something like this, "A must read for male nurses between the ages of 46-51", and being in that category I knew treachery was afoot but I bit down out of morbid curiosity. It was an advert for malpractice insurance. Of course I was equal parts outraged and motivated to cut their greasy tentacles off before they slip over my electronic/cyberspace threshold. It was then that I realized the reach and roots of these advertisers and most specifically, Google. That was the last time I used Google search or Gmail and now Google has no real way to annoy or monetize me. I blacklisted Google and blocked any widgets or trackers even loosely related to it or any social networking service. It was also the last time I used a Microsoft browser or Chrome. I dont use Apple devices, ever. I use an Android (Google OS) phone but I first rooted it and replaced the OS with a fully customized user created OS which is so much faster and never ever even had Google play or store on it. I feel pretty well locked down but it does take a little doing. I'm most interested in how they actually got you with the very same style seat you were eyeballing in the store. I may not sleep until it occurs to me how they made that happen, if they made that happen. I'm pretty sure most folks have no idea what they are getting into when they make a Google account and use the search engine, or gmail, or start syncing devices and accounts. Almost anyone reading this right now, Google and FB probably know you are here reading this. Even when you leave a Google or FB page, they continue to track where you go and what you do on the net. Internet activity trackers are VERY VERY common and grossly overused by tech companies to monetize on their product (you). Last theory, and this one is over the top I know, but here goes. Facial recognition worked into normal store surveillance, names put to shoppers faces before they put that thing down that they were looking at. Does this store do that, I'm guessing no but it would not shock me if a major player like Walmart did this and sold the info en-masse to Google and it's advertising partners. There, hows that for some off the wall crazy talk? Brick and mortar stores helping online giants build your shopping and buying profile. Yup, I dont think so but I would not be at all shocked if it were true. This is a highly interesting and many faceted subject so sorry I blathered on, but I have learned quite a bit about protecting oneself from Google and others.

Lets go ahead and throw me on the pile of happy Morgan CarbTune users. It's everything I need and nothing I dont, it works and works properly with no fuss. It was priced right and got here fast. +1

There is a reason Google is among 511,788 domains blocked (if I count selectable filter lists and my own blacklist) at the DNS level on my network. In order to take advantage of such tranquility you cant be at the mercy of any Google services, which I am not but I know many are. I have nixxed almost all big tech and killed about anything that even thinks of tracking me or showing me ads. It's been A LONG TIME since I've seen an ad on my comp screen! Once I got a look at my internet traffic in black and white I was appalled and couldn't wildcard block these gross offenders fast enough. I cancelled my Amazon Prime account past-haste and blocked all Amazon serviced to my network as soon as I saw what they were up to. Samsung too, Microsoft, yup, and many many more. My internet is so damn clean I get giddy each time I open it up and surf, it tickles me when I see trackers blocked and blank spots where ads are NOT. If a business web site has too many trackers or analytics I will likely decide not to do business with them. It's equally eerie and offensive that they are so proficient at violating one's privacy and monetization. I'll bet no one person in the world knows all the ways they do it. Locking down my internet was every bit as liberating as cord cutting my cable and landline. One Q for the OP, did you buy ANYTHING bicycle related on that trip or did you Google search anything about bicycles recently? Did you text/email anyone about the bicycle seat? Google and Yahoo do scan your emails and use that to advertise to you. I would love to know if and how they got you on the bike seat.

I had this very issue, I took the forks apart to redo the seals and toss in some Progressive springs. Two things that caught me off guard is that it already had Progressive springs, and those little cups with the rubber lip, one came out in pieces, and both of them fell out on the ground so I never got to see how they were supposed to go in until I found an exploded view diagram. They only really fit one way, and you will have three washers there too. IIRC you have two flat and a wavy, the wavy goes in the middle (or is it a flat washer between two wavy ones...). Sux getting old. I did what you did, I came to this forum hollering for help, and a member came to my rescue so I got one and a spare. I have been looking for my Venture box for a couple days thinking I had a spare for you. Doing some remodeling and stuff is everywhere. Long story short, I found my Venture box and I found the spare right along with it. I only have the one, not two. I'm going to choose to pay it forward and offer it to you free of charge if you still need it and one is enough. I cant recall if I paid for them or got them free, but either way it was damn nice to have found some at all. It's well used as you can imagine but intact. If you do still need it and you are in the lower 48 PM me and I'll reply with my contact info so we can get it on it's way to you. Sucks to burn up riding season over the little things. Let me know. EDIT, I just read you need two. Offer stands if you find another one somewhere else.

Gray has a lot of range, I'd go that way. Any shades of tan or brown will probably make it look like you sideswiped a 74 LTD Country Squire Woodie. I painted my Vmax for two reasons, first I wanted a safer color than flat black, and I wanted a color that nobody else on the Vmax forum had. I choose a Turquoise and it came out a little lighter than I had hoped, but after I saw it in the sunlight I decided it was just about right. I have never seen a Vmax quite like mine, which was a large part of the point. I have never painted before, not seriously anyway. I went to a body shop and picked out the color and they put it in some spray cans that worked almost eerily well to lay the primer and color down, then I used a can (Probably two cans for a Venture) Eastwood/2k two part clear coat. It comes in the can also but has a bladder inside, when your ready to use it you just hit the button on the bottom to mix the two parts then you have a clock on getting it applied. It worked very well, I'm surprised by the results. Just like on cars, all the work is in the prep. On that clear coat, your going to want to breathe about 0% of that nasty crap, it's wicked toxic so ventilation and a resp would be great ideas for spraying that stuff. All and all it was very easy to work with and although it took a little more time and money than I wanted it's been years and the results are quite lasting. I like the gray idea, IMHO all the Germans have mastered making gray, silver, charcoal and gun metal very sexy exterior colors. Go for it. If you have trouble finding just the right shade try the BMW, MB and VAG (VW-Audi Group) colors. I think it's a great idea.

I sport a 1st gen Vmax, have spent a bit of time tuning it and get it dialed in. Missing and breaking up over 4k sure sounds to me like it's rich rather than lean. It's a very common Vmax thing, they come from the factory rich. Mine was so rich when I got it that I had to tune it from scratch, especially for my 4000' altitude. 25 mpg is another indication of a very rich mixture, I think most folks here get mid to high 30s US gal. I got my Vmax from about 25 mpg to 40-ish just by changing out some jetts and making sure the float levels were spot on. That 4k rpm stumble is all to familiar to me. Do you smell raw unburned fuel around the bike? I could on mine when I stopped but I knew it was an issue when someone I was riding in front of was telling me that the rich smell was very strong. Once I got it tuned and leaned out a bit the "Vmax thing" started happening in spades. 4k rpm is about when the slides lift the needles and open up the main circuit so when the main jets are to fat it will begin the rich stumble right at that RPM. Just lookign into my crystal ball here but I'm going to bet your jetting is off a bit, as was not uncommon that some of the Dynojet stage 1 kits for Vmax were way way way to rich if installed according to the included literature. These V4s prefer a tad lean over a being rich, and it seems most of them I have had anything to do with were much to rich, which cuts into the Vmax experience. Vmax main jets are pretty fat from the factory, I'm running a free flowing Kerker exhaust and Morleys intake, my jets are smaller than factory and it pulls hard all the way to the 10k redline. I'm with puc, we need as much info as we can get on what the setup is, BUT it sounds like your tuning a Vmax and not a Venture. When your pulling the carbs (Its sounding like thats where this is going) it might be a bear, even with factory intakes it is a tight squeeze, but with the slightly taller Vboost manifolds you may end up having to lower the engine, i've not done this but I've read about it enough times that it resonates as I'm ready to do a Vmax head/cam swap into my Venture. When you get the carbs apart make notes of all the jet sizes, I'm really interested in the main jet sizes. Also note that the factory jets are Mikuni, and most of the aftermarket jets are DJ, the size numbering DO NOT coorelate, there is a conversion chart here so that when you do get it apart you can make better sense of what you really have. Another thing that may have happened since that Vmax engine has been on the planet for so many years is, someone may have put in aftermarket needles, these MUST be identified before we can talk about jetting. Luckily there is a picture that IDs the commonly used needles in these applications. Stage 1 DJ needles are not fun to work with, there are better ones to use. I have the pic but cant post it, but if we can see your needles we should be able to identify them. I think factory Vmax main jets are 152.5 MK, I'm at a 147 MK main and it pulls like a beast with no more stumble or flat spots. Whats right for you will depend on needles, exhaust, altitude et al. https://yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/workshop/carb-jet-conversion-chart Another word of caution, dont hurry to buy carb kits and parts, there are good parts and bad ones out there, best rule of thumb is NEVER put Chinese parts on a Japanese bike. Luckily there are some Japanese aftermarket carb parts/kits that are known good and cheaper than OEM. Also diaphragm sets can be had out of the UK for around 100/set and are made in the UK. Beware of the unbranded cheap-o stuff with these carbs. It's fairly common for Chinese kits to be used and the job must be redone with quality parts. Save your $$ and untold aggravation and buy the right stuff the first time around. I know Puc mentioned this, but it's going to be important to see if you have all the components of a functioning Vboost. Yup, pics! This is a link that has proven very useful as I set the floats for my Venture and Vmax (same setting). Good reading. http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prody11.html Tuning can be monotonous, especially if you have to try a couple different main jets, but the results are very nice. Congrats on the cool project!

I agree with T_hole, you should not need a VPN and it sounds very shady. I fired DirectTV years ago and not looked back. Cable should be 100% free considering all the ads they collect money on by forcing you to watch. Even if you can fast forward through them it's still an annoyance. I've completely eliminated advertisement and brought my price down to around $60/mo for streaming content and internet connection. The whole concept of packaging channels is long in the tooth too, the cable industry I'm sure knows it's drawing it's last breath as streaming has just gotten so much better, cheaper and user friendly. Stand alone DSL internet after taxes and all should be under $40/mo, mine is 36.xx month Netflix is 13/mo Hulu + (package w/no ads) is my sons, not sure of cost but it's minimal. I just log on to his account and watch. All you need is a steaming device like a smart TV or ROKU. Stand alone internet and an account with Netflix and/or other streaming services which usually come as apps already installed on any streaming device to make it easier. Thats it and all you really need to get back on with viewing ad-free content and viewing what you want when you want sure sounds better than paying a high price to be pounded into tears by relentless advertising and appointment viewing. Another word on cost, you dont need any fancy ultra-fast internet to stream or play games, usually the slowest/most basic DSL speed is plenty ample to do both with no issues, but ISP (internet service providers) love to up-sell expensive packages and add-ons, none of which are necessary to do what you want to do. I stream with an internet speed of only 1.5/sec, limited by my rural location. No HD at that speed by my AVR upscales and looks pretty darn good. If your in a city then you should be golden even with the cheapest slowest speed you can get and stream all day in HD. I'm big on privacy so I use a Pi-Hole DNS level adblocker that works works on a Respberry-Pi mini-computer. It cost me about $50 and an afternoon to setup and make my DNS server and now I can see (and block) network traffic to any device. Plug it right into the LAN and set it up. There is a way to put a VPN and KODI streaming software on the same device, I'm ordering a backup to experiment with keeping my adblocker, streaming software and VPN on one small device that plugs right into the LAN. Good luck with whatever you choose to do, leaving cable is a very short learning curve with great rewards, I'm sure you will be quite happy with it.

Which tires are best is a huge topic. I'm using a set of Dunlop E3, and I like em enough to use E4 next time around. I did not like the Metzler Marathons r/t uneven wear and cupping. There are a lot of good tire choices. Oil: another big subject, but an overwhelming number of folks here and in the Vmax world prefer to use good ol' Rotella T4 (non-synthetic) 15 40. T5 and T6 are semi and full synthetic and many of us avoid that and just use conventional Rotella. It's listed as a diesel oil but it works quite well. I use in both my 1st gen Vmax and Venture and have been for a few years now. For filters, really avoid Fram or any Chinese no-names. NAPA Golds are WIX and great quality. There are other parts house brands that are decent and some to avoid, but those escape my brain right now. There is an oil thread here somewhere (probably many) that talk about the best filters to use. Congrats on your new bike!