CaseyJ955

It's an odd looking creation, not clear on why safety gear no longer needed. I will say one thing though, BMW and MB are two manufacturers that often introduce industry firsts. I'm sure it would not look like this if it went to production, it's fugly at best but there may be some slick tech stirring within that could make it to production models eventually.

I know the aluminum pistons have better feel and less unsprung weight making it an appealing choice. The longevity of the steel piston was a tipping factor for this application, I was surprised that the color was that close to, that didnt hurt! I found them on fleabay for ~$56 shipped. It came with the rear master and caliper which I cant use, and steel braided lines for rear and both fronts. At that price I would have gone with either material but I was glad to find the blue dots as increased longevity is a perk for me. This afternoon I'm going to take the vmax splitter and rear line and see if I can fit it to the front but my guess is I'll need to pick up a different line from MC to splitter, maybe I can use the rear line on the Venture rear. Length looks about right to delete the proportioning valve, as long as the angles work. The linked brakes did not please me. As far as the parts max, I'll do nicely by the time I box up some spare stuff for my vmax and pedal the rest off on ebay. I'm really happy to have picked up everything needed to run a vmax top end in the Venture. Not sure about the vboost though, that single carb looks like a great option, I'll have to wait for more data on that before I make a call on what direction to go.

Ok, I just have to tell someone here, I'm all giddy, especially now that I just put the blue dot R6 calipers on my blue Venture and its sexy as heck. Found an 85 vmax parts bike for $150 and harvested the heads, cams, intakes w/butterflies, Vboost controller & Servo along with wiring harness. I'm going to ride the Venture stock all next year and if I feel, even for a moment, that more power would be nice then I'll pull her in over the winter and Vmaxize her all up. If I find it ample then I'll pedal this stuff on Ebay but my guess is I'll be switching it up next winter. goody goody goody!!!

I wouldn't push mine across the driveway without a full face lid and there are no adult helmet laws in my state. That being said IMHO it's a waste of resources to pass/enforce laws to protect us from ourselves. Adult helmet and seat belt laws need to go the way of the 8 track player. Insurance companies should be allowed to deny any claim of anyone injured while not using the available safety gear, this way it wont cost others money. A person is free to make their choice, and if necessary they are solely responsible for the consequences. Problem solved! Helmet laws suck.

I got the front of my bike assembled (except for the R6 calipers which should be here today) as soon as the spanner arrived. Definately a very nice addition to my tool box. Wish I had picked one up years ago. He has many more for sale he said. Yup, hes pretty helpful indeed.

I've had to do the shotgun to my Vmax (almost identical carbs) after a short 2 week break. I have better luck when I'm able to avoid ethanol tainted fuel but these carbs are sensitive regardless. I know it can be done with carb cleaner but I use a small compressor for some extra psi. 1.5 years with ethanol and my guess is the carbs are coming off but the shotgun may well work if no ethanol was present, also I would drain the tank of any ethanol tainted fuel or you may be running that nasty stuff right back into the carbs after cleaning. Good luck and thanks for serving, glad your back safely.

Is a dyno run possible in the future? It would be cool to see how it's actually metering fuel through the RPMs and see if it's making as much hp, or more, than stock.

Thank you for the update. It's still got me thinking. I have yet to break into my carbs but if they are a mess I may try a single like this. Very sweet and still watching with great interest.

It was him indeed. Hes also the guy that sent me the plate seat so I could get my forks together. I'm expecting to see the wrench in the next couple days and the price was very fair. I reached out to him on the Vmax forum and that worked. I've exchanged a few emails with him so that should work too.

Great info. I ordered the spanner and expect to see it Monday or so. This will let me get the right preload on the new head bearings and hopefuly ease adjustment later. With the new head bearings future adjustment would not surprise me as they wear in a little. Thanks for the tip. I'll at least be able to get the bike together and wait for the spanner for final adjustment.

It's a good vid but I missed how he did it w/o removal of that special washer. The tree and top nut removal makes sense to me though.

The Youtube video shows adjustment being done without any disassembly, but there is a cage piece to lock the two adjusting nuts together, does that just stay in place and the spanner moves the nuts together with the lock washer? I have the preload spec and all so I'm good with the rest of the procedure but this one thing seems odd. I dont see any other way it can work. I just ordered a spanner and I would like to get the rest of the bike together while I wait for said spanner to arrive. Thanks.

Im pretty new here also, not many miles on my 89 yet but I had only to throw a leg over it to know its more comfy than a wing for my lanky build so I brought it home. Ive had a Vmax long enough to gain a healthy respect for the Yamaha V4.im not sure where you can get a better distance bike without spending quite a bit more.

No doubt you and Dingy are the heros of the day with all the pics, info and the part. If it happens again ill know the fix and the next guy/gal with this issue should be able too use whats here. I have searched quite a bit and come up with very little so its quite helpful to have these responses. It must have torn while I was removing the lowers, they were in no way easy. Ive had the bike up on jackstands entirely to long so it will be great to get her together in time to get a few more day rides in. Thank you for all.

I just love projects. It does sound responsive, the v4 is just a musical beast! What sort of MPG are you getting with it? I have imagined my Vmax with a Dellorto DRLA or progressive Weber after seeing the supercharger kits with a small Holley. Pretty cool stuff there! X2 keep us posted.

One of the Vmax guys spotted it and had all the information and an exploded view that does have that part listed. Not sure why mine lacks it. Just in case this might help anyone else in the future, the mystery item is called a Seat Plate, Yamaha # 2WR-2318U-00-00. They are discontinued by Yamaha. Boats.net and everywhere else lists them as not available. I'll be searching out a used one so I can get things back together and adjusted. Thanks folks for all the good info and video, cant wait to get her finished up and on the road!

Its not right but when you don colors you kick the door open for this sort of thing, you need to watch where you go. I'm delighted to no be affiliated, with all due respect to the few folks I know that are patched I cant wrap my brain around why adults feel the need to behave this way, the point of it eludes me but I understand that this is just the reality of it.

Thats a great vid. I'll get her adjusted and heading into town to get the right tool, all I have is a socket to fit. Thanks for linking that, nothing makes things clearer than a good video. I'm still hanging up on this part here, I called the local Yamaha dealer and described it, he said he thinks its the "Plate Seat" and says they are discontinued from Yamaha and suggested Ebay. I see nothing on Ebay that looks even close. Stranger yet is it's not on the parts breakdown. If anyone knows where I may source these or if there is a workaround I would be eternally grateful as I'm at a standstill until I figure how to remedy this. I was tempted to reattach the rubber with silicon but I'm sure that would be something short of a lasting fix. Anyone got used ones laying around I could buy? Thanks folks!

Thanks for the response, thats exactly how I was going to adjust the neck bearings as well. I thought I had everything, both upper and lower bushings, seals, dust covers, new progressives and the fluid that probably lands at around 10 wt (synthetic import ATF/PS fluid). Figured I was good to go. I'm stuck on those little seals/cups in the pics in which one side has the rubber seal separated. Once I figure out what those are or what they do I can order them and get her all together. I really cant find any reference, photos or anything in videos or searches. Because I have not seen these things in any other videos or exploded views I'm wondering if they are necessary but I cant omit them before I understand what exactly they do and why they are in there to begin with.

Thank you guys, I got the service manual and it said 36 ft lb. Were good there but im putting the forks back together and I have run into an issue. When they came apart it was silty and sludgy, the parts sort of exploded out, probably due too the significant force it took to slide the lowers off. I used the exploded view in the book and a video on youtube to make sure I have it right so here is a pic, there is a collar there with an integral rubber seal, I think I have that positioned correctly to, seems the only reasonable way for it to be. I dont recognize the his part from the video or exploded view, perhaps its specific to gen 1.2? So Im wondering what its called, since one of them came off in two pieces it seems ill have to replace them. I also noticed some damage to the inside of one of those aluminum cups, not sure how that could have happened. Thanks for bearing with me, I found nothing in a search and none of these parts were still on the damping rod when I slid the lowers off, they all came tumbling out of the lower encompassed in slop.

I just replaced the old steering bearings and races with the allballs replacements. Is it advisable to preload the bearings before I dial in the final adjustment, if so how much? I plan to get the final adjustment using the bounce method. There was also a link I saw to an e version of the service manual and darn if I can find it, can anyone point me to that? Thanks folks!

Go here to progressive sight and start with "Select Your Bike" and run through until you get your part number. http://www.progressivesuspension.com/product/1465/fork-spring-kit We recently had quite a thread discussing fork oils and viscosity that might be a good read if your going to go and do this. I cant recall the part number for mine right off the top of my head or if they are different for gen 1 and gen 1.2. Once you have the part number hop over to Ebay and find the cheapest reputable seller. I think I got mine for $82 shipped.

Those are some great ideas, I'll pull the line out today and see whats what, it looks fine except for that one crack. I'm OCD enough that if it doesnt work it will bother me

I've read everything on fluid levels from 5.5" to 6", I see the inlay that came with the springs says 5.5" so thats what I'm going with. Unless I'm way off here I dont think the amount of fluid will change fork behavior unless its full enough to blow through the seals or too low to offer damping through it's full travel range. Since I had progressives in it before I started I'm guessing the horribly cupped/feathered tire and shot neck bearings were responsible for the crappy ride. I cant see how to post in classifieds but if anyone here has a parts bike or any bits/pieces laying around I really could use the fork air line that supplies the left air collar, it looks like a knuckle buster to replace with the bike together so I'm sort of waiting until I can find one to complete reassembly.

Cool, thanks. I'll put an ad here and give that a day or two before I go to Ebay.