CaseyJ955

Old brake hoses can come apart from the inside out and the rubber can work like a check valve mimicking a frozen caliper. Not real common but it happens. Also a MC can do that as you mentioned. If you crack open the caliper bleeder screw/s and the caliper relaxes then you can start looking at master cyl and possibly a hose. If you crack the caliper bleeder screw and it continues to drag than the caliper is probably seizing and should be removed for inspection. When this happens in my experience the caliper is often the culprit. Old brake fluid is rough on master, slaves and calipers. I hope you get it sorted If you find it a caliper then when you unbolt them they should sort of wiggle off the rotor and if one is seizing and holding on you will know when it doesnt wanna come off

I know this marvelous Yamaha V4 will run shockingly well with a cyl not pulling its weight. Did you get a visual on the slides through the airbox? are they all doing the same thing when you blip the throttle or rev it some? I had a binding slide once and I could hear a change in the rumble. If you have COPs it would only take a moment to swap the R and L coils to RO a weak coil. Im not sure if this works but if you slide the mufflers off and listen... Assuming compression and valve lash are within spec.

I saw a decent writeup on this on another Venture forum. It would be interesting to see how mounting and wiring are being handled on this. I kept the entire wiring harness from my doner Vmax until I sort through whats needed. I cant help but think that the whole experience has to be a bigger kick with vboost. I know Ignitek can control vboost but what about with the OEM box, servo and controller. It would be cool to know how those with functional vboost got there. I have also read about vboost on Ventures without the vmax heads/cams.

Agreed brother, agreed!

. If candidate X was called out for 2005 remarks then I would be executed or banished for the things I have said and done! Tony for president! I can run to replace whoever gets impeached next year! By then the voting public should be more than ready for a staunch libertarian minarchist. As mentioned above, the first thing I will do in the advertising world is make fast food chains use actual pictures of the steaming piles of refuse they serve rather than the delectable entrees they currently have pictured.

I have a pile of bad calipers now from vmax and venture and not sure if they have any core value. Im going to keep the rear master and hose as it is. I already blocked the port to the front and removed all the extra plumbing but I think I have to gut the proportioning valve for it to function proprtly. When I get home from work next week the rest of the parts should be waiting.

Vmax and Venture royale carbs are very similar with the obvious exception of jetting and a difference of 34mm vs 35mm so possibly the Venture carbs could be jetted appropriately for this application. Guessing rsv and royale are in the same ballpark? Im not familiar with the rsv heads but is there enough meat there for bigger valves and/or creative match porting? This sounds like a cool idea. I dont have many parts left but I do have a set of vmax heads and intakes sitting in my frontroom, if photos or measurements can help please let me know.

General experience with CV carbs vs flatsides here. Uncorking the exhaust often means you increase jetting to keep up with the added flow, on flatside carbs and this seems to be intuitive. I have experienced it both ways on CV carbs, but they are adaptable and sometimes will take that added flow and run to rich. Some of the Vmax guys end up dropping jet sizes with free flowing exhaust. Im running two sizes smaller than stock with a full Kerker on my own vmax but im at 6300' to. Vmax have a quality Im not sure is shared with Venture, and that is they like to be a touch lean. Does it smell rich? You could read the plugs and see if they show rich running, you could also expirement with running in the AF screws in 1/8 turn increments making a note of their current position in case the changes are counterproductive, you can at least get back to where you are now. This should lean out idle and off idle throttle positions. I think (I think, but not positive) that the needles dont start in until around 4000 rpm on stock carbs so shimming needles for an issue in the 2000 rpm neighborhood may be futile. A smaller main jet leans it out but a smaller pilot air jet enriches, sometimes dramstically. Besides shimming the needle outwards enriches the mixture. Im assuming carbs are synched up properly. A lean mixture can cause exhaust popping to as a result of elevated exhaust temps. I hope this gives you something until someone fluent in Venture tuning chimes in.

I rushed over here to see if I could be the first, but im late. haha, oh well, it still has that new directory smell anyway. The Vmax heads are a direct bolt on up to 93 according to my research. Once you get to Royal Star the exhaust ports are in a different position for frame clearance. The exhaust port position of the Vmax head prohibits its use on an RSV, again according to my research, I have not tried a fit. Im unsure if the vmax cams will fit but they look the same to the naked eye. Some head porting would be needed for that to make sense IMHO. I dont know if the vboost components and intakes will bolt on but it looks like it should to the naked eye, I hear that the Ignitek TCI will also control vboost, not sure if that feature is availavle on RSV Ignitek but I cnt see why it could not work. Sorry I dont have more, I did find some reading on this a couple months ago and this is all I got from it. If you could make an RSV a little vmax-y you could swiftly break some HD hearts.

Annoyance is the main tactic for advertising, repetition and use of humor at the small end. I get so annoyed by it that I have done the following. I fired Direct TV, not only tons of poor quality programs but seriously over priced service and a heavy surplus of soul crushingly annoying ads, many are downright insulting to my intelligence. I was paying for that! I cut that cord and dismissed my landline at the same time and went with ooma. Those two moves saved me over $250/month. Now I have basic stand alone internet for $38/month. Ooma for $4 and Netflix for $11, which is ad free. I wont even use Hulu, even their plus service has ads and I will tolerats 0 advertising now. Besides with internet only its easy just to type in watch __________ online free and your there, ad free. I watch what I want, when I want and NEVER tolerate ANY ads, ever. I feel that with all the ads that come with cable TV it should be free, but once you pay $50-$250 every month you should absolutely not be annoyed by ads in the comfort of your own home. Am I wrong? It doesnt matter, its the way things are so I just vote with my wallet and encourage others to explore alternatives as well. The other thing I do is when im in my car I never ever tune into terrestrial radio, its as annoying as TV. I have an old 96 Lexus LS400 which is old enough to be pre-blutooth by a decade. With an oem CD changer in its own glovebox I ripped 6 decent CDs of what I like, than I installed a Bluzit bluetooth thingy in the antenna lead so I can link my phone and listen to my enternet show or listen to my flac library. The bluetooth thing was $70, I have one in my Samurai too. Point being I save a significant amount of money every month, thousands a year! literally! I savor a 100% advertising free existence and listen to/watch what I want when I want. Its blissful my brothers and sisters. I only had to buy and install a couple bluetooth thingies in my well aged vehicles and life is pretty grand! We dont even need to make it illegal, we only need to stop participating. It feels good, like a big middle finger to the annoyances many accept as just the way it is. Sorry this is so long but I feel that aside from the significant bundles of cash I save and overwhelming amount of annoyance completely eliminated from my life was well worth it. Im only sorry I waited as long as I did. Go ahead and put another $120/ month on the pile by firing Verizon and putting wife and I on month to month cricket. Who would have ever thought that being cheap could give a guy such a boost in quality of life? Its a windy post but its a highly effective way to counter the problem and save a buttload of scratch in so doing. Good times!!! Oh yea, we have a couple gas pumps thst shove advertising as we fill, I dont go to those pumps, instead I use the older stations so I can fillup in tranquility.

I thought about moving the front right out back but it had frozen pistons. I found another good RF R6 caliper for $20 shipped so I figured that was a good way to go for a rear. Im trying to spend as little as possible, I was going to delink and use the same calipers had they been serviceable but this was not the case. Thankfully ebay is littered with all sorts of neat stuff like this. Ill get it together on the cheap but I think chromed calipers would look pretty cool.

Im in the same boat as you, I voted "in the process" because I just scalped a vmax for the parts so I guess im at the very beginning. Thanks Freebird for submitting this for consideration.

I didnt even think about bleeder screw position. I should be able to grab a piece of tile or something thicker than the rotor. Crap, I would missed that. Thank you!

We do indeed have some things in common. I just harvested heads/cams/intakes/exhaust from an 85 Vmax I'm parting out. I plan to do what your doing but I want to get a few thousand miles on it stock first, then maybe switch out and dial in a 2bbl setup and get some mileage on her that way, then over the following winter do the vmax head conversion and redial the carb to accommodate the free breathing heads/cams. I would like to put a few thousand miles on each modification to get a complete feel for it and get it all working. Besides next year I'm moving and will have a better workplace to do an upper engine. My main reason to look at a single 2bbl is not so much performance but less maintenance and greater reliability. I take long solo trips and nothing sucks worse than wasting time away from home/tools trying to sort an issue. I would, however, only do it if I could get comparable performance and MPG from a single 2bbl that I could get from properly tuned OEM carbs. I'm thinking Weber or Dellorto but will see how this Ford carb works and what sorts of numbers we get rolling in now that PKR has one in service and I think a couple others are looking to do it. The only nagging question I have is if there is benefit to a single 2bbl and no significant compromise, why did Yamaha not consider it back in the 80s? Carb tech has come forward quite a bit since then but the carbs we're going to use are older tech to. I hope it's easy to keep the cruise control with this 2bbl setup. Headers, I harvested the stock vmax exhaust in hopes that I could doctor something up from that. Maybe I'll even end up with an aftermarket vmax exhaust and modify that. I have to admit that doing a full custom fabricated exhaust would have me in over my head. I'm liking a 4-2-1 or even 4-1, but in any event I envision it with a single exhaust. My 99 vmax has a Kerker 4-2-1 and the stock but lightly modified carbs and I can assure you it takes very deep breaths, sounds absolutely wicked and flat rips. The 4-2-1 IMHO sounds way better than twin pipes, I just hope I can quiet it down more than the Vmax, which would be way too loud for real saddle time. Maybe it just comes down to can choice. I'm really interested in your project and specifically how the 2bbl will end up working with the vmax heads/cams.

That will do it. I'm going to go through everything and make sure there are no other issues keeping the carbs funky, then I'm either going to order the diaphragms or break out my wirefeed and start making a 2bbl intake modeled after what PKR just did. I'm glad to know the diaphragms are of quality, the guy was quick to answer my questions but I'm apprehensive by default. Thanks for taking the time to let me know about those.

That helps a great deal! I agree on the newer tech which is why I was reluctant to rehash the almost three decade old caliper that was on it. Ordering one now. Thank you very much for that info. It's not often that the cheaper way is also a better way.

I got the front together with R6 calipers, Vmax splitter, homemade aluminum adapter and braided lines off an R6 that barely fit, so that part is done. In delinking I'm around the back of the bike now and found that the rear caliper has two frozen pistons. I see the rebuild kits for around $50 on ebay but wondering if another Front Right R6 caliper wouldnt do just fine on the rear. I can pick one of those up for around $25 in "working" order. The mounting looks identical and the angle looks right. Is it to much grab for the rear or should this be a go? Thanks!

I'm prepared for my Permatex fix not to work, if it fails I'll replace all 4 diaphragms. Has anyone had any experience with this seller or his product. He said he manufactures them and that they are not from China. Price is attractive to be sure. I'm not good with OEM prices and would love a quality alternative. Does this look like such an alternative? Any info apriciated. http://www.ebay.com/itm/281761118293?euid=596e8d8aea814f2e9c2fcccb64a04c8c&bu=43133956111&cp=1&sojTags=bu=bu

If the 84 didnt care so much it may have been on the rich side. If jetting and float level are right then it will feel the absence of the airbox. I know when I did my VMX1200 and went with a free flowing airbox modification I had to also install air correctors in the carbs to keep things proper.

Glad its sorted. Let the good times roll!

I'm not 100% on this, but 86 - current should be the same. I have my 89 1300 apart right now because I found pinholes in 3 of the 4 diaphragms. My experimental repair with Permatex PL S30 Roofing sealant is done but takes like a week to cure completely. Anyways, I just happened to have all the slides out and pulled/replaced the needles just to check for the presence of shims. The needles protrude from the slide ~ 1 17/32" and are single position needles without shims. It would be interesting to see if the 86 is the same and what type of needles it has.

Once you have the side fairing off and the carbs exposed it takes only a few minutes to remove the slides and pull the needles out. As mentioned there is a tiny little white nipple on the collar that goes at the blunt end of the needle. When I'm reinstalling needles I put them back in the slide and put that little spring and nylon screw back on only a turn or two at first, leaving me room to push the needle up against spring pressure, gently, and gently twist it until l I feel it click downward again before snugging the nylon screw down. This lets me know without any doubt that the nipple has fallen into that little hole. You can hear it and feel it click in. Also make sure that the above mentioned white collar with the little nipple is slid all the way up to the end of the needle and seated firmly against the C-clip at the blunt end. Sometimes they can be a little stiff, especially if you have needles with multiple C-clip adjustments. When you put that fat little nylon screw over the needle and spring, just barely snug. Resist the urge to over tighten it. When you take the slides and needles out make sure all the parts stay with their respective carbs. I'm sure this disassembly will reveal the reason for the needle length variance.

I sure will. The vmax carbs are a wreck unfortunately. I may skip the whole vboost/vmax carb thing and see how this single carb setup goes that has been tossed around lately. Maybe a setup with a progressive Weber or Dellorto can be dialed in to accommodate the extra CFM requirements. I'm keeping the Vmax exhaust in case I can use use parts of it to whip something up but I have found nothing along the lines of a full exhaust for the Venture. Figure I'll have to make something. Once I get started I'll document everything but I'm thinking I'll ride it bone stock next season and begin the conversion over the following winter.

I just pulled that off tonight, it is available, looks purdy dern clean to. It's funny because I was thinking about putting Venture gears in my Vmax because of all the open roads around here, but now that I have an actual venture I'll be leaving the Vmax as is and just sell off the extra vmax diff to the first person that expresses interest and presents a reasonable offer.

I'm glad you pointed that out. I have all the bolts and lines so I'll pay close attention. I was hoping to use the Vmax splitter with the calipers and lines from the R6, and the stock MC for now. I'll definitely update later.