CaseyJ955

That is what I want to hear, first that your getting good MPG and then that you had an awesome ride again, and of course what riding style you use to get that MPG. I tried to do 65-70 going to Hermosa then through Custer. I found I was doing 65 through some 45 mpg corners and didn't even realize it. I did set the cruise at 70 and this is the first time cruise worked as it should. I think with the increased speed not only is there wind resistance and the significant amount of HP it takes to keep a massive bike rolling at that speed (guess what that does to rear tires too) but with the increased revs and load lift the needles, so here come the main jets and needles dumping more fuel in. I went out on the super slab but I doubled back through Custer, Hill City, Keystone, Mt Rushmore area then 385/44 back home, the last half I was very grandfatherly with the loud handle and it chewed through that last half tank just as fast as 75mpg went through the first couple bars. I expect my riding style isnt helping a great deal but even when I'm gentle and 45-65 it still eats up bars on the gas gauge, it's almost as if it doesnt matter what I do. I'm thrilled to have all the other issues worked out on the bike and this is the only thing left so I'm grateful for that.

Thanks! It was a long process on the Vmax and I'm not expecting the Venture to let me off easy. As far as I know the needles are in the stock position. There are no shims and they are as far in as they can get. This is why I'm not clear on how to move them further in without altering or replacing the white cog that sits between the end of the slide and the needle clip. If I put the TCI back to stock the cops might cook it, they are resistorless, which the Ignitek can handle but I guess the OEM TCI could be damaged by the extra current drawn from lower primary resistance of the stick coils. I know the map that was done for the Ignitek was tailored for the Venture and I changed nothing other than adding a rev limit and dialing in the MAP sensor. So if the filter and needles dont get me up to the 40 mpg club I'll focus on the Ignitek. I would have left the stock TCI alone had I not planned on running unadulterated COPs and eventually using it to control Vboost. One thing I forgot to mention is that the poor MPG condition existed when I got the bike, before any other mods were done, I was in the 24-25 tops neighborhood so the mods did improve things to the tune of around 5mpg.

Free flowing intakes seem to play hell on CV carbs, I know your 100% correct. When I added a custom filter top airbox to the Vmax I had to put little brass jetted restrictor plugs into one of the small top ports to compensate. I realized the Venture was no different when I fired it up w/o the airbox in place to observe the action of the slides. The factory paper filter looks okay but maybe it's still dusted up. I like K&N mostly because I live on a dusty dirt road about 3 miles long and I have to flush/oil filters at least a couple times a year. Besides I found a used on on Ebay for $22 shipped, so I can remove that from the equation. Honestly I have never noticed any performance or MPG gains from a drop-in K&N on any vehicle aside from possible slight gain in WOT but in the case of these bikes where the intake restriction is notable to begin with and part of the design/tuning it may be different. I'm carrying over Vmax experience and I'm not sure where the cutoff is and where things will be different with the Venture. Once I had the Vmax leaned out and able to breathe the HP and MPG gains were significant and I found the V4 likes to be on the lean side of things. Someone that knows a bit more than I told me that in the case of the Vmax, if it's lean enough to hurt the engine it will not run correctly. There is a narrow window of having the mixture correct from the mains down and when your in that window the performance is awesome, and MPG is really nice too. So I'm at that place where I'm rulling out any defect with the bike causing inferior MPG and maybe just moving onto fine tuning. I think my plan of attack is to go with the K&N to lean it out a little and learn more about moving the needle in a half a clip. I think those two things should make quite a difference. My Yamaha V4 experience tells me that if it's for decent MPG that the performance should sort of go hand and hand with that.

Thanks, I had a look at those. I was wondering about the needles. For some reason I thought you could only shim them out to make it richer. I was unaware of shimming them inward, never thought of it. I bought a shim kit for the Vmax and ended up not using any of the shims, turns out the best position for go-to-jail acceleration was 2nd clip. I think I'll dig in and see how to shim them inward. I'm above 3000' and my rides often get me over 6000' so I could stand to lean it out, I'll bet I will pick up a little performance by leaning it out. Thanks and thats a fantastic looking machine, and weather! I made up some COPs so no plug wires or caps, brand new diaphragms installed and float levels set at 1.125" dry. no detectable vac leaks, brand new plugs gapped at .032". Brakes are fresh front and back. I thought the rear might be dragging a little but the rotor stays cool after highway rides. I dropped in several oz of Seafoam before the ride today but I just had the carbs apart. Figure it wont hurt to run some through anyway. It's running quite well.. I have a K&N coming and I'll see how I can move the needles in a little, my guess is that will help. If none of this helps I'll go into the Ignitek program and see whats there but as well as it runs I'm definitely leaning towards just getting to much fuel. I've got a few days of rain, I'll check the plugs and see what they look like this coming week. Thank you guys for all the help!

I'm looking through that. It's running quite well, it pulls pretty well from the basement on up. I was hoping to get around 40-ish but I cant seem to even get over 30. I suspect there is an issue that I'm missing causing the poor MPG. With 70k on the clock I guess the emulsion tubes could be worn but a close inspection of them and they appear perfect, not even the slightest oblonging of the port. No shims in the needles, I think the air filter is alright but I ordered a K&N just to rule that out. I live on a dusty road so it makes sense anyway. I do have an Ignitek so maybe I should do some checking and make sure I have the right map and parameters set. Today I hit 110 miles and I was well into the last bar on the fuel gauge, filled up and calculated 28.x mpg I'm going to go check out that thread.

Thanks Earl. So far so good but I'm glad to know who has the goods if I need them. About all thats left now is sorting out why I cant seem to break 30mpg.

One extreme to the other, sorry man. 90 is pushing it for sure, especially if its humid. The spring/summer/fall here are decent but those winters can range from mild to long and harsh. I hope you get some transitional 74 degree dry weather to blast around in before the oppressive heat kicks in.

It couldnt be better, I snugged up the new head bearings a tad and loosened/tightened the tree, braces and front a axle and completely lost the highway wiggle. Tbrew on the carbtune again and set the AF by ear, got from 2.5 turns to about 1-7/8 turns on each carb. It has more pep now so well see if I rise from 30mpg. Im sitting at a coffee shop now before I head out across the badlands of SD. I hope you are all having this sort of day too!

Earl, thanks for the response and the explanation, it makes a little more sense than my theory of aggressive fork lower removal. When I brought the bike home I rode 300 miles, much of it in treacherous crosswinds along the I-90 and torrential downpour limiting visibility to near 0. By the time I got home I already had a shopping list including new head bearings, progressives, OEM bushings, seals and covers. I did all that over the winter and my first ride last week saw the brand new seal blown and all the metal shavings. One thing I didnt know is that when I ordered the progressives to get ready for the build is that it already had progressives in it. I put the new ones in anyway. They were so fantastic on my Vmax that I knew it would be the first thing I did to the Venture. The ride quality is truly too dang nice for words and I would encourage anyone that has the stockers to strongly consider the Progressives. I run 0 air, synthetic import ATF as fork oil and left the anti-dives intact and it glides quite pleasantly.

I love the max, no doubt it's heavier than a Virago, and once tuned correctly has tear jerking acceleration. It's a swift and blinding HD killer but not exactly a light flickable bike like a Virago. Yup, I love my Vmax. One thing I will say the same about the Vmax and the Virago is if you want one and have a place to park it go get one. They really are *****en' and so much fun, really you can get nice ones under $4k.

Disassembled, could see no problem or reason for the metal filings. There was quite a burr along the OD of the seal spacer and at the upper ID it was pretty rough so I smoothed it up with a dremel and 120 grit, very careful reassembly with new OEM seal. A 50 mile ride, problem solved. The love affair with the bike is back on but still have some tweaking to do.

It's all Disneyland here! I appreciate all the input and I'm hard to offend. So thank you to everyone for the input. I wanted to make sure I didnt accidentally get air in the front when trying to mess with the rear so I just unplugged the front air line at the compressor and plugged the hole with a short bolt and O ring, then ran a flanged bolt and nut with an O ring through the end of the hose to seal it up from moisture and dust. Now I can use the rear air without worry. I managed to fix the blown fork seal today and got a nice long ride in. She runs nice but I still have a few things too deal with. I'm only getting 29.3 mpg and shes awful wiggly and loose at 75+.

Cool, I thought it would auto adjust as was needed. I plan to still use it for the rear shock so I'll probably just DC/plug it in the back by the system. There really is very little room to work by the forks. Thanks for the enlightenment, there was no air in it when I took it apart. I would like to keep it functional and completely manual but that minimum 6 lbs is a little taller minimum than I want to start with. Again I'm sure I'll have to turn it on to add air to the forms when I'm loaded with stuff and wifey is on the back. Each time I turn it on it seems to default to automatic mode but that could be because I had the battery out between rides last year. When I indicated no air pressure I meant atmospheric pressure. It's not a huge deal but I do prefer it to be slung on the soft side for crappy pavement and max comfort. Even with a nice cushy front end it seems quite competent around the curves. At the moment I have diverted my attention to why it blew a brand new seal and I have metal shavings around the lower seal spacer, bit strange but I'm heading into town to get a new seal now. I guess some miles will tell me if I need to add any air but at this point it sure doesn't feel like it.

is the MKI the same as the gen1 MKII in regards to the trailer hitch? If so I could be talked into parting with it, the bike has more luggage space than a VW Notchback so I dont foresee the need for a trailer anytime soon.

Ok, I got done whining about a blown fork seal and reaching for a solution that didnt involve pulling the fork back apart so soon after fully rebuilding it with new OEM bushings, seals and dust covers. Left side is good as gold, no trouble. Right side was blown and leaking quite badly. So it comes apart as it normally would, I bump the fork lower off and empty the guts out, everything looks ok. The bushings look good but I found metal filings around that heavy beveled washer that sits right under the seal, The OD of that heavy washer is where the shavings seem to be concentrated. I believe it was all in the correct position. I did also notice a few fine sparklies in the fork oil as it drained, really hard to notice but it was present. The ID of the fork lower looks smooth. So I'm guessing the metal filings caused the seal to fail even though it looks fine. Does anyone have any idea where my misstep was? I'm sort of stuck and I cant see where I went wrong. Thanks folks. EDIT I just watched a youtube video and it looks like that beveled washer (the heavy one that goes on right before the bushings) is supposed to be a flat washer, I cant see it well enough to be sure. The heavy washer I'm refering to is called a "seal spacer" item #2 on page 231 of the electronic manual

Absolutely, if you want the bike and can buy it without making her pay for any portion of it then go buy it today. I have a friend with a "control tower" and has to "run stuff up the flagpole", it's really difficult to witness. Go buy the bike, aint nothing wrong with twins, the Virago is a fine bike, they have a following just like the Venture. Maybe you wont always need to ride the 900lb Venture into town to run a couple errands. Life is short and we're not here for a long time, if you want it then go buy it. If your an adult with your own money and you have space for it there is no reason in the world you should be dissuaded from owning a Virago if you want too own a Virago. :stirthepot: Take this with a grain of Na. My alter ego is a mens/fathers rights advocate/activist.

I have a supply hose that was severed and I had to replace it, I kept the old hose for some reason odd reason, so I can fashon the ends into plugs. I figured if I let the air out by loosening a hose then the pump would simply resupply the 6 lbs back into the forks upon next start, or continuously pump trying to regain that 6lbs. It is nice to know that it is not a system defect and this is normal operation. I'll let it pressurize the plugged hose, that'll teach it who the boss is! I have another concern that I think might be related to air pressure in the forks and a possible defective internal air seal. I have blown the right fork seal, sprung a decent leak. I rode for 45 minutes and had to stop and wipe the fork clean twice to keep the leaking fluid from reaching the brake. All the seals, bushings and dust covers are new OEM and the forks were in great shape, it was wearing the chrome plastic rock shields to protect the forks from rock chips and appears to have worked great. During reassembly of the forks I was very careful to measure the fluid 5.5" from the top with fork collapsed and springs out. It's not just a little weep, it's a damn significant leak, I want to RO air pressure from within pushing the fluid out through the seal via defective internal air seal, reaching I know but I really super duper dont want to tear this thing back apart if I dont really have to. I'm hoping that fixing the issue of the CLASS system introducing PSI into the fork against my wishes will also magically and mysteriously cure the heinous seal leak. Aside from this, the bike is completely ready for some awesome long trips. EDIT, effitt, it's coming apart again, no reason a new seal should leak this badly, something is amiss, I'll replace the front air supply line with an obstructed one while I'm on there. dernit, I was hoping I was past all the oily pieces rolling around on the bench.

I have recently added Progressives, no more need for pressure. I put CLASS in manual mode and tried air down the forks all the way but it would appear that 6 lbs is as far down as it will go. What gives? Do I have to DC and plug the hose? Thanks.

I have not changed final drive oil, was going to do that next. I'm anxious to sort out this fork seal issue, thats all there is to be concerned with right now. Still cant see why it happened to a new seal. I guess I'll have to pull the clip and see if I can lift the seal up and check it out.

I would struggle to put words to it, it starts with a state of mind. There are plenty of motorcycle owners that dont have it, I know some, but there is an inexplicable feeling of freedom and bliss while gliding through a less traveled route, someplace new or a familiar way to the store. I dont think there is really a word or phrase to capture the why of it. Freedom sounds trite and overused but I think it's the best I can do. Even though I cant find the words I know you guys understand very well what it is.

I RODE IT, I RODE IT, I RODE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!:thumbsup: Oh MFG, I see why you guys like these things so much, WOW. What an amazing machine, olly krapp. First off, this is not the same bike I brought home last fall, nope, this is a very competent and comfortable road bike. I knew I would love this machine but I had no idea just what my tour-happy a$$ has been missing all these years! It's almost like this thing was made for touring....or...well I guess it is. So first ride and I'm DEEPLY impressed. I've been on the Vmax all morning and I got home with all errands completed so I jump on the Venture and take up away from town and head to Hill City. This bike rocks, I can feel the -55hp and +300 lbs compared to the Vmax but that being said this thing moves out just fine. It can put on the dancing shoes at a moments notice and gleefuly waltz through the sweepers and corners. I'm still scrubbing in new tires so taking it somewhat easy. Front brakes: The R6 calipers and Galfer HH pads do the trick. The brakes on this bike went from a 2.5 to a solid 9.5. I'm so happy to have the link removed, braided lines, modern calipers and pads. She stops with enough power that I can feel my brain squish against the back of my face and all with very little lever effort, it stops like a bike half it's weight. No hint of grabbiness as I suspected. I dont even have the pads fully homed in yet but it already has more than enough braking power. Just like the throttle it's very linear and easy to use. Rear brakes: they work but I really have to stand on them. I suspect the semi metalic pads were closer to organic. I should have used HH pads back there too. They are ok if a bit numb and dont hold a candle to the fronts. If they dont work better once homed in I'm getting a rebuild kit for the R6 caliper back there and another set of HH pads, otherwise it will be fine. Progressives/fork rebuild: Amazing how this thing soaks up bumps and handles the road. Mushes through the corners like it thinks it's an CBR (sort of) deceptively nimble for an obese old spine framed turd. It really feels like a much newer bike. I started thinking that the front could be a touch softer and that would be ok too so I stopped and realized that there was 16 lbs of air in the front so I put the CLASS system in manual mode and let all the air out of the front and when I started riding I was amazed all over again. Actually the CLASS system says 6lbs, its as low as I could get it and I'm not sure why, if theres really 6lbs in there or how I can zero it out. Any tips there appreciated. The progressives do not need air on top of them. COPs/Ignitek: What can I say, smooth linear power with no hickups or glitches. It's smooth, quiet and willing from 2000rpm up in lower gears and 3000-3500 on up in the higher gears. It's hard to feel the acceleration or speed on this bike but I know it's gathering speed quickly by watching the speedo whiz up past 80 with a flick of the wrist. I still dont know if I have my MPG issue fixed but otherwise this bike is a gem!!! I can see this bike and I are going to be excellent friends. Something sucky did happen though and I'll throw it out there in case anyone has guidance. I rebuilt the forks with new OEM seals, bushings and dust covers, put progressives and carefuly measured fluid levels and I noticed a pretty bad leak on the right side seal. Significant enough that I dont dare ride it again until it's fixed. The left side is just fine, no hint of any leakage and both forks looked great during assembly, I was very careful and not sure what it might be. Any ideas? So the only questions I'm left with is how to get 0lbs of PSI in the front forks insted of indicated 6? Any ideas on why a seal would leak so badly whilst being brand new, I lifted the cover and it's got the washer and clip holidng it in. Can I pull that and raise the seal with the bike on it's weight? Is it normal to hear a little gear noise in deceleration in 4th and 5th gear. It's not much but some. It's not an issue for me, I just want to know if it's normal. Man, I'm still glowing from the ride and realizing what a great bike this is, it really blew my expectations out of the water. Thanks!

I have a metric butt-load of adapters with it but I have a clear hose that is hogged out on one end to fit right onto the jar and the other end snugly over the bleeder screw. So homemade adapter if you will. It really does come in handy for pulling fluid through the system doesnt it? I know some guys that complete the job with the mighty vac and are happy with it. I'm OCD and probably overkill but I like to give it a few pumps and bleeding the old way after the mighty vac pulls the fluid down. The mighty-vac has been pretty handy over the years.

It does, I like it, but I also realize that every system bleeds differently, most cars/trucks have enough of a MC capacity that you can pump the brakes until it firms up and begin hold school bleeding which requires a helper. Reverse bleeding is nice, but a lot of OEM master cylinders have some built in check valves (not sure if this exists on bikes or not) and forcing fluid backwards through it can damage those. I like gravity bleeding but the Mighty-Vac works where you would otherwise be pumping the brakes until you yark just to try and get fluid up to the caliper/wc. Once I have fluid at the end I like to put the mighty-vac away and bleed the old way. I still use a clear hose on the bleeder screw and prop it up so I can see what the fluid looks like and watch for any air. There was an outfit a while back, maybe still selling a check valve in a clear hose that you would slip over the bleeder and just pump, the check valve would presumably take the place of opening and closing the bleeder. I tried one and it just didnt seem to work well but I think it's a cool idea and find myself wondering if there is a better quality version on the market somewhere. I get by great with a combination of mighty vac and traditional bleeding and this Venture with linked brakes is the first thing to throw me a real challenge.

I've been inside my 99 Vmax carbs and 89 Venture carbs and I have not seen a needle that looks like the one you took out (one on the right in the pic). Both mine look like the left one with the wire retainer that slides over the float tongue. Maybe someone that has been into many sets can add some insight but from my limited experience I would start to wonder if you found the wrong needles in there to begin with. Also in the pic it looks like it has a slightly bent nub, if that needle turned 180 degrees inside the carb it would effect float level based on its position.