CaseyJ955

I live in South Dakota, we absolutely have asinine politicians (Rounds, Dugaard, Noem), the worst of the worst, but we are not too overregulated as a state yet. Im always honored to push back and defy stupidity, thought I could help you get your bike or part it out. I did t even notice you needed a broker. Darn.

Ive never heard of something as stupid as not being allowed to do an in insurance buy back. Sounds Californian, but I guess IL doesnt surprise me either. Someone can buy it, just not you? If you want it back PM me, I'm not in IL but Im sure there is a way to help reunite man and machine. I have a special place in my heart for stupid intrusive laws after living in CA and WA.

I think Autozome loans them with deposit, or used to. A basic one can be had on the cheap although I wouldnt expect great accuracy with a cheap-o. It will, however, let you know if you have a problem or not, it will also let you see how it compares to the other cylinders, so even a cheap one is worth having. Im going to go ahead and 3rd a carb issue as the culprit. When you get the right NGKs and are ready to install, this is a perfect time to do a comp test on all cyl. Also we'll see how each plug looks compared to #4 . This should tell us a good deal about the engine and fuel management.

If #4 is consistent with the other cylinders in regards to spark than a comp test is the next quick test. With good compression we're back to carbs. Just curious but how often do we find actual engine problems beyond misadjusted valves? I sure haven't heard of to many cases. Snypers offer of help is a very fortunate thing. Helluva nice guy!

Im definitely an outside the town/city guy and you drew a great image right there. I excused myself from the rat race years ago. There really is nothing like keeping things simple. .

I like COPs, I have them on my Venture and Vmax. Before doing this we should find out what is wrong the current setup. Are you 100% sure there is no spark? You can pull the plug wire and slip an extra plug into it and hold the plug body against a ground and should see some spark, try it on a live cyl and you will see. It might even zap ya, most of us have been zapped many times haha. there is a tool sold at parts stores in liu of a plug So once you know you have no spark at the plug and do have spark on the other 3, I would start at the beginning of the chain. First make sure you have 12v going too the coil at the low voltage side with key on/engine off, then if yes you would measure ohms resistance across the coils low voltage side, and HT side with coils unplugged and key off. This just to make sure the coil is getting power in and the windings arent shot. A coil can ohm out ok and still be bad but thats improbable. I suggest using a decent multimeter and check not only cyl #4 but all and record your findings, were looking for consistent findings across all cyl. I realize you said you were not familiar with the function of a multimeter but it might be a good idea to surf youtube and check out some basic instructions, its really not bad once you see how it works. A digital one will be much easier to use, all you need to be concerned with is reading DC volts and resistance in ohms. Knowing how to use a multimeter for these two things will be very handy in the future. You can get a fairly decent one for probably $25-30. Im assuming you got a good look into the nose of the coil where the HT lead (spark plug wire) plugs in, you could have a nice layer of that gnarly green corrosion inside there and that will keep it from firing, it has to be clean bare metal. Im not sure if a faulty TCI can prevent spark to only one cyl but it would make sense. Lucky the TCI and coils are in the same area, and also lucky you have spares, but not all TCIs are the same. My first idea was to put a photo of one of my old coils up with direction of where to test but im at work for several more days. Feel free to call me and I'll see if I can walk you through it, its really not that bad. Really nice to have a parts bike, yes?

Joe, that sounds like a great idea. I noticed last week when I went down WY, across CO and back up NE into SD I was often outside service areas which would stop data use but presumably nav would still function, presumably haha. When touring I look for BFE, if I'm not frequently falling outside service areas than I'm not far enough away from "it all". I am really interested in how this will work. I would love to stream Leykis while riding but as data cracks up I will most likely use my FLAC library and bluetooth it through the stereo via a bluetooth reciever inline with the antenna. My newest car is 1996 which predates bluetooth tech so I got familiar with the tranzitBLU devices, cant see why one would not work on a bike. So im left wondering if I could listen to my tunes and use GPS on a modern phone outside data areas. I look forward to your findings.

That is handy. Im afraid to use my phone, its an old S3 and not waterproof, and I dont like to leave the locational services enabled. I found a Garmin 60CSX that is weather proof and works great even if you leave the road and known map systems. The downside is its way easier to do a map by plugging it into a PC. Doing a map without a mouse is a skill I have yet to master, a link like this is good to see. Does a phone burn data for GPS functions? I didnt think it did but I only tried it once before going to Garmin which I was more comfortable with exposing to the elements and vibration. Also noteworthy that my last touring bike was a KLR650 so functionality beyond known road systems was necessary along with the backtrack feature. I dont see taking the Venture through the trees and fire trails/grasslands Do you mount the phone or tuck it into a tank bag map pocket? I got a RAM mount for the Garmin for the KLR and ATV but the Venture bars do not work with that so I see a tankbag in my future or fabbing something up.

As cool as old cars are its just too hard to ignore all the amazing safety features of the modern auto. Air bags are just to fantastic for words. Really glad shes okay!

No prob, it sounds like time is a factor so whatever you have time for is fine, Im off all month after the 8th. I live off hwy 44 west/Rimrock scenic a few minutes west of Rapid City. Its a stunning ride from deadwood to my place. If your camping you can wash a load and grab a shower. I have been extended these courtesies by friends and even strangers more times than I can remember in my aimless travals so its all good. If you like Filipino food give me a heads up, wife cooks for any reason, otherwise we've always got something to throw on the grill. Ill PM my #.

Glad to hear its still on track. Nothing like a scoot to put life dramas in the rear view, at least for a few days. I have se leftover Amsoil 75-90 I plan to try in the final drive. Hope all is well and keep us posted.

The VXX Sabers were always desirable bikes, not the he least of which is the V65. Even a Magna is sweet. Looking at this new Honda I'm reminded of the oldschool VFR we all lusted after in the 80s. Even has the red, white and blue. Will be fun to see what comes of it.

Im done working on the 7th or 8th so deffs hit me up. I live around 30 minutes from Deadwood but if the tourists are out in force I generally avoid the hills. Wife and I took a ride up around Pactola reservoir yesterday and it was still pretty mellow. Early June is pretty decent. Once we get into July and Aug it can get really gridlocked making it hard to savor the hills and fantastic motorcycling roads. Your timing is good, I often grill in the eves during summer and fall, im not really a pro but your welcome for supper while your in the area. Are you planning to ride the badlands while your here?

I went through some privacy policies for Yahoo and Google and it was at that time that I went with a pay email service focused on security. I would highly recommend anyone using Google, facebook, twitter or Yahoo and other services to sit down and skim through the things you agree too when you click AGREE. Its sobering. Anything free is either going to try to lure you into a pay service or (likely AND) mine data for targeted advertising or other nefarious purposes. Have you ever noticed how insanely hard it is to read a EULA when the font is gray and all caps? It's by design, they would prefer you not read that stuff before you agree to it. When you click AGREE you give them permission to essentially go through all your stuff and distribute it as they see fit. It's insane! I unplugged my Smart TV and AVR from the net, went to secure pay email service with no backdoors, rooted my phone and installed Cyanogenmod but for windows 10 I cant see any way to secure it. Windows 10 is a bridge to far for me, it has taken to much control out of my hands and force fed me a ton of junk I dont want or need, in the process jeopardizes my or my clients PHI and other sensitive data. IMHO windows 10 is about the worst thing ever.

I'm going to go ahead and NOT disclose how many hours I have played Fallout 4, or GTA5 for that matter. Yup. These games are works of art. On FC3, yea, in many ways superior to FC4. Even FC2 did many things right that got lost in later versions. I still like em' both. Besides its hard to beat Vaas for style, I noticed the guy that did the Vaas voice over has a part on Better Call Saul, I actually recognized him and his voice, and his mannerisms. Whoever put all that together hit it right on the head. Vid games have come FAR since the days of Pong, or even Wolfenstein 3D. All the time I save not being on that timesuck Facebook is in turn allocated to playing vid games

I cant recall that one specifically, I think there was a regedit and workaround to disable it. I killed everything I could using a few informational sights that helped quite a lot locking windows 7 down. You can kill the notifications and "stop" the scheduler, BUT windows updates will still happen, those updates can return privacy settings to default (really bad). I have done exhaustive searches and not a damn thing on how to actually pull these weeds out by the roots. They are always operating in the background. Stop and disable the services and next reboot they come back, if not just a few seconds later. I feel like I have really no control over this thing that I paid hard earned money for. It pisses me off in ways that I cant even describe that MS gives me 0 choice in the matter of features and updates, updates presumably via task scheduler if I understood that right. Do you know how to actually kill it? Here is one and there are many others that cover it. I know some but not enough to really grasp how MS spun this all together. Why is obvious to me and it sure isnt in the best interest of the end user. https://superuser.com/questions/1034673/how-to-disable-a-windows-schedule-task-in-windows-10-using-the-utility-schtasks Heres something I didnt know until I already had the system. There is an actual keylogger (yes, records every keystroke) installed by MS, but I think that is actually killable. Why would anyone ever buy another MS product ever again after 10 defies explanation. I'm boycotting MS just as I have HD and GM. Gone! http://www.pcworld.com/article/2974057/windows/how-to-turn-off-windows-10s-keylogger-yes-it-still-has-one.html Not trying to hijack from the fellow looking for the XP disc, I'll still check around if nobody has one handy.

It seems reasonably stable, not quite as intuitive as earlier windows but manageable. The issues I have are privacy/security related. I spent quite a while researching ways to exterminate Cortana and sort through some of the other blatant privacy intrusions designed into windows 10 and some of them are quite difficult to eradicate. If it is possible to secure 10 then it is above my scope of knowledge. It's insane the amount of bloatware and spyware win10 forces on you after you pay full price for a comp, and a lot of it cant be uninstalled by conventional means if at all. Some of this is as I understand it an integral part of the OS so it's there to intrude, like it or not. I have decided not to allow it to access the internet until I find a way to ditch win10, I'm afraid I'll end up with a HIPAA violation otherwise since I plan to use it for work. From what I can see after doing some research and talking to a few others more savvy than myself is that windows 10 is a data mining/distributing program clumsily disguised as an OS. How can MS ever be trusted after releasing an OS that has such disregard for privacy? I went through all the menus and did some regedits recommended by friends but there seems to be no way to stop the bleeding of data. Even with no activity on the comp there is internet traffic, to many red flags with this one for my liking. I plan to wipe it clean and install Linux after I play with a few different distributions and see which one suits me the best. In an era where our rights and privacies are rapidly being eroded I refuse to allow my own computer to exacerbate the problem. It is absolutely appalling what windows 10 is setup to do right out of the box, absolutely outrageous. /--rant mode off. I was unable to find my old XP discs, if nobody else has one I can check with my son, he may have something.

I loved Full Throttle but I have not seen the remastered version yet. I just looked on Steam, it's there and has quite good reviews. As far as fishing, I'm likely moving to the Devils Lake area this fall, so I'll be looking forward to doing quite a lot more fishing.

I watched the trailer and read some info about it. It looks fantastic!!! I dont often get jazzed for video game releases but I have always enjoyed FC 2, 3 and 4, and this looks really badass and based in the USA instead of some exotic island like Kyrat. Time to see what it takes to bring this new GTX1080 to it's knees in 4k. The Far Crys and Half-Lifes are among my favorite things in media entertainment. I'm a dork, I love this stuff and somehow I doubt I'm the only one.

It's going to be difficult to diagnose running problems without a good synch. If you had the carbs apart already and when reinstalling them make sure they are completely seated into the intake boots, check for any other vacuum leaks. With the carbs off the bike and the rack separated they are almost certainly out of synch and that can account for erratic/high/hanging idle, lack of responsiveness, chuffing/popping and all sorts of stuff. I was going to do a homemade synch gauge, and I know some guys do pull that off well. I picked up a Morgan Carbtune and it's probably the best $100 I have spent on bike tools. Unfortunately these carbs are not really a set it and forget it. I synch as a part of routine maintenance on both my Vmax and Venture. I toss the synch gauge on at least a couple times a season to keep it sharp and happy. Find a way to synch the carbs and see where that lands you. When you pulled the carbs did you alter the float levels? Also make sure it's hitting on all 4 cyl. Not uncommon for the old coils and HT leads to fail where the HT leads go into the coils or at the caps. I like the downpipe spit sizzle test just for being quick, effective and easy way to make sure you have fire on all 4 pots. These V4s run surprisingly well with a dead cyl. Oh yea, welcome!

I'll have a look around, I'm using 7 now on my desktop and it rocks. XP was a good OS as I recall. I'm fairly sure I have a copy but doesnt it have some online reg/activation hassle you have to go through? I just bought a laptop with win10 on it and I lack the English words to describe how much I dislike that and how alarming the lack of privacy is, even after locking it down. I'm planning to do a duel boot system with Linux, which is probably a good option for you, and it's free. There are several different distributions, some very similar to windows I understand. I'll have a peek for my XP disk and if I find it you can have it. I'll update this evening.

Transcontinental seems to be a subjective term, but I think my interpretation of it matches yours. The videos were definitely not eluding to a dual purpose tour machine. I looked to me like they were talking to gen2 owners and HD owners looking for something better. With Polaris doing so well right now against HD maybe they want to throw their hat into that ring. It is a saturated market but there seems to be many buyers for these things. Creating a new model with this much hype for liter+ tour bikes that can do single tracks seems like an exercise in futility considering the narrow demographic and extremely competent competition. If Yamaha introduced a cheaper, less finicky model to compete with a GS1200 it would have my attention, but I think the buyers they are trying to get excited about this would be seriously disappointed in a dual sport of any kind.

The Vstrom in all it's subjective aesthetic glory is by many accounts one of the finest all-purpose bikes on the road. I was looking for a 1000 before I stumbled upon the Vmax and had an emotional response. If Yamaha makes a liter class dual sport it will have to compete with the BMW GS, Tiger, KTM, TL1000/650 and others I'm forgetting about. I could see more room in the market of large caliber dual sport before another narrow angle twin cruiser/tourer though. It would make more sense.

I got my first clue when I had to use a rubber mallet to get the damn OEM calipers off the rotor, they should wiggle off by hand unless there is a significant ridge around the OD of the rotor from wear, even then though. The R6 calipers still had some drag so I pulled them off to put HH pads on, used air to pop the pistons and cleaned them out good. Green scotchbrite on the pistons, pulled and cleaned the seals and flushed out the bodies. Back together, even with the old seals and they work as new now and I did find a lot of sediment and sludge in then, should have cleaned them out before install but I was being cheap and lazy. The OEM calipers have been on the bike for around 120 years (motorcycle years are like dog years) and I know a great many folks never do the 24 month flush. There could be some gunk in the calipers. "If it aint broke, dont fix it" to some riders/drivers means "if it aint broke, dont maintain it". Brakes and forks all to often get ignored until they completely cease to function, it seems to be the reality on our older bikes. I would have rebuilt my original calipers but the OEM kits were very expensive and the calipers are different sizes, my OCD nature would not let that go. I somehow doubt that the calipers are costing you 10-ish MPG unless they are hanging up bad, if it were me I might wait for a rainy weekend and pop them off and have a peek inside. I suspect your MPG issue lies elsewhere.

I have one of these EPA junkers. I converted it into oil waste and just put a solid lid on it. I use older gas cans for my saws, mowers and trimmers. I guess gov has solved so many of the problems that really plague society that they have directed the EPA create these virtually unusable, needlessly complex spouts. Heres my workaround, I hit garage sales, it's like clockwork finding older quality gas cans with normal spouts for a buck or two each. A couple of mine are so old that the spouts may need to be replaced before the cans do so this is a great link to see. Please update how they work and what the quality of the materials is.