CaseyJ955

Go ahead and file non-hyd lifters under Retro Charm next to air cooling, points and carbs. My guess is cost of manufacture, besides the dealers will make out alright on all the valve adjustments and heavy maintenance schedules. Air cooling is again probably the reason for hi-test fuel, the compression numbers are not high at all for a modern bike but for an air cooled bike it's up there. Compression = heat, gotta give her a drink that wont detonate when it hits the unreasonably hot (by today's standards) pistons and heads. My buggies and bajas with the air cooled flat fours were good with about 7.3 - 7.5:1 tops on pump gas, my Torino was good with 12:1 on premium. When an engine is properly cooled it is far more forgiving in regards to compression and various induction systems. I'm sure they eeked out every last decimal point of compression they could while not having the top end melt right off the deck in 100 deg weather. I talk like I hate air cooling but I have a place in my heart for air cooled VWs. Even Porsche ditched air cooling almost 20 years ago and that was one of the halmarks of the 911. World class manufacturers know when it's time to put old tech on the shelf which is why Yamaha's choice to go this route defies explanation. The only way this makes sense is the bike was to obese to add the very modest wt and it would cost more to manufacture, cutting into profits.

I'm getting ready for a trip that may turn out to be longish, figured I would change the final drive oil, and I ran into a couple questions. 1. Of the two plugs on the pumpkin the upper plug had the magnetic nub and the lower plug was just a plain ol' conventional oil drain plug. Guessing the PO got it in the wrong hole. Unless there is something strange and unique about this final drive the magnetic plug should be below, yes? The manual doesnt seem to cover this, figured I better ask before I goof something up. 2. Redline 75-90 API GL4 synthetic gear oil ok? no trouble with synthetics leaking or anything in these drives? Thanks!

The CLASS air suspension system only works with the key on/engine off, give that a shot, that tripped me up too. What happens, Is there any error like E4? I know the cruise might not set if the levers are slopy, might be tripping the switches that would normally cancel. There is a troubleshooting section here somewhere, cant find it at the moment. Congrats on the new bike and welcome!

Check oil filter, esp if it is still a cartridge style. It could leak while riding and the wind may carry the oil back. Just a thought. Otherwise a good way to trace it would be to clean it up with maybe spray cleaner and dry with rags and compressed air, then without riding it allow it to idle warm and look for traces of the leak. A nice drop light and inspectie mirror should let you see everything. I hope you find it.

If the Venture turns out to be a keeper its an awesome value for the money.

It sounds quite pleasant over there. The parts of Canada I have seen were quite nice, Ill never go to VBC again though! Last time I was there I was riding my Triumph, the last year you cound enter Canada w/o a passport. It was beautiful and the weather was perfect. I ran across some southern parts and didnt go to far north, it was pretty rural and very clean. The ladies up there were sure lovely too, yup. I can definitely see the appeal to living in Canada. It may be time for another tour, by fall I should be living reasonably close to the border. Is there any chance you would take Justin Beiber back though?

I prefer a clutch over auto. I made sure both my kids knew how to drive a stick, couldnt turn them loose on society without knowing how to drive real cars and trucks. When I showed my wife how to drive a clutch in my tuned 9-5 ARC Turbo I found out her inner child is actually Guy Martin, now the pass seat has an array of pucker bites in the leather. When I went to sell the above mentioned SAAB I found out how many young men had no clue how to drive a stick. Whats the world coming too?

Beyond cool, really like that for both functions. Can you link the part?

The dry climate here makes both the extreme highs and lows feel less extreme. Truly not everyone can handle the winters, just as not everyone can handle the rain of other localities. I cant think of anywhere else (within North America) that I would rather live. MT, WY and parts of NE and ND are also correct answers

I have heard of the Mr Gasket stuff working. Not cutting edge stuff but cheap and readily available. Make sure to get one for carbs, not EFI, something in the 4-7 lb psi range or the float needles will be overwhelmed. Many are round and about the same size, should be good to go.

If your going to Ignitek then the COP grocery list is basic with no resistors needed. I did both chasing my MPG issue and it runs great, but I still had really dismal MPG, around 25-29. I used Skydocs drop shims and that got me up in the 40mpg area. I suspect the emulsion tubes are worn as they are known to and dropping the needles countered it (speculation). I cant link but search "run for it its the cops" on this site. I documented my simple.COPs there and other great info from many users. Float level is critical on CV carbs, I went 1.125" dry on both my Vmax and Venture with good results. Factory Pro has the info for Vmax and the proceedure and measurement is the same for Venture. If you find the right Ignitek and dont get the Venture directions and/or files I have that stuff and the benifet of guidance from Gary D on getting it optimized. If you need assist PM me and I'll give you my ph #. and share what I know. Im still learning the ignitek and its various adjustments but ill help if I can.

Ok, I feel better now. I had lived in Seattle area for 15 years. The relentless rain was third only to unbearable traffic and soul-crushing overpopulation. I guess I'll be content with sometimes harsh winters and sweet spring/summer/fall here in rural South Dakota:sun: . Take THAT!

I checked this out, it reeks of Chinese aftermarket, and if this is the case I would not touch it regardless of warranty. The seller should be able to tell you where it was manufactured so you can make a more informed decision. Generally speaking I would go with even a used OEM before Chinese aftermarket. Clever advertising doesnt change the consistently substandard items from China flooding our aftermarket. I always ask and I get answers like "designed in Japan" which means made in China. There is usually only one reason a vendor does not proudly give country of manufacure right in the ad. I like to hear "made in Japan" like the K&L aftermarket items. Not having owned one I cant say for sure but do ask before you buy and be cautioned. If it were made in Japan I might take a chance on it for less than half price, but thats just me being cheap haha. I would not be afraid of a good used one for probably a decimal point of new OEM. Really nothing out there beats OEM quality for jap bikes/cars.

Aawww man, I got nuthin' to throw back now!

One noteworthy thing regarding HP is that (for example) 118hp at 8500rpm is quite a bit more fun than 118hp at 4500rpm, by a decent margin. I will be shocked beyond words if this Venture can run with a GL1800, especially in the summer heat. One thing I recall from my HD days is if you can get around triple digit HP and TQ in an air cooled twin it starts to get fun, and reeeally warm and pretty finicky. Gotta admit I would like to ride a strat with all this talk of massive tire erasing torque. There was one for sale locally for $2500 with some rash, cant deny thinking about buying and bobbing for pwr:wt. I have not owned or ridden a big twin since leaving HD years back and honestly I have not missed them one bit, not even for a moment. I have not given the Yamaha twin a fair shake yet to see how much better it is but maybe its time I try one out. 91/117 to the asphalt is are definitely livable numbers, especially with wt being a modifiable factor.

I think I read that hp would land in the 70s on this one, but torque should be adequate, maybe even fun at lower speeds. My guess is the underwhelming hp and redline might make it more work when highway speed passing or funtime acceleration is summoned. I guess we'll see when a current Venture owner gets a good test ride on one. Traffic was heavy as always in Rapid City and it was 102, this is not the bike I would have chosen for today. I really hope this bike lives up to the hype. Thos needs to be the finest air cooled twin ever made.

How long is your riding season again, 45 days? I was out in it today for work, it was 101, oddly enough I loved it, I think I could have ridden w/o being uncomfortable. Gotta admit I'm glad it doesnt get this warm to often.

That is nice and toasty. It will be 100 in the black Hills today which I thought was hot, most years we never break 100, besides its a dry heat

Nicely done, I like to that, glad you posted it, thanks.

I think there will be a comp test. When I had mine on 3 cyl it was nothing like that. It was a little hard to tell there was a problem. I suspect the parts bike may become instrumental in solving this mystery.

I had a trashed, clapped out old E150 cargo van converted into youthful partymobile. It had an auto and 300/6 which was tired and noisy as a diesel. It burned over a qt of oil per tankful of fuel. I had no money in 1980s rural SD and priorities of both time and money that did not include taking care of my crappy old sintruck. I carried a couple jugs of used waste oil and just topped off with that. Never could kill that thing regardless of how many times I had to ad 1gal plus to get it beteeen the crosshatches. I abused and overloaded this vehicle regularly for a number of years. When it clattered louder than usual I knew it was time to drown it in a few more qts of oil that some other vehicle already used up. I sold it still running to a friend on Pine Ridge res for almost nothing and it still had a shocking amount of torque in spite of being well into borrowed time. I used this van, a chain and a friend or two to drag full size trucks, cars and vans, sometimes on flats, to the scrap yard for money to fund youthful misadventures. The abuse and neglect were jaw dropping. The things I put her through:fiddle: Engine design is an overwhelming factor in how long they last, even above neglect and abuse. The legendary slant 6 was Chryslers peak, anything after that is hit/miss in my opinion/experience. Some oils are better than others but if you have any at all the engine has no excuse not to do 250k or better. Aside from a few real jewels born of detroit steel the Japanese have handed our asses to us in regards to vehicle/engine design and engeenering, especially post muscle-car era.

If any carbs have fuel they all should, assuming the floats are allowing it into the bowls. Someone mentioned a carb sync, out of sync carbs have a more profound effect at lower RPMs but still it needs to be done if the carbs were off. If they are far enough out of balance the thing will barely run. To see if all the carbs have fuel in the bowls you can do a quick float level check using the bowl drain screws and a length of clear line trimmer fuel line. I cant seem to link it with my phone but its a quick check. Make sure the carbs are fully seated in the intake boots and the linkage is as it should be. Also check chokes and linkages to make sure they all actuate together.

What an excellent writeup, I agree that this would make a fine pinup. I have a significant decel whine but it comes from the gearbox. Also have a rhythmic rubrubrubrub at lower speeds coming from rear but I'm sitting on new E3s. I plan to change the final drive oil before I leave on my next trip. I agree about the Metzlers being aweful. Have em' on my vmax too and they feather like nothing I have ever seen. Im not sure what noise my clutch makes but I do hear the faint knock that mimicks a tired rod bearing. I have an audiophile ear that picked that up and last time I put the hammer down I thought it might have slipped a little. Time to open her up but I have another trip coming up before I can get to it. I attributed some of this to it being almost 30 and having 70k on the clock, even though it aint much its pretty far from new. I did notice some sparklies when I did the first oil change. Thanks for this great info. Ill be ordering a clutch and inspecting final drive, shaft and rear wheel/bearings...after I get back.

I have an Ignitek in mine, I do like it but my take out is the later model so it wouldnt do you any good. I think Gary has stopped selling Igniteks, I dont know if anyone else here sells them. I got mine from another member that bought but never used. If nobody here sells them I believe Sean of Morleys Muscle sells them and may have a used OEM. Hes a Vmax guy but Im pretty sure its the same box. Also with the Ignitek you can run simple resistorless COPs. I hope you get it sorted soon. If you do go this route I have Venture maps that Gary was kind enough to send me.

Maybe they were doctored up for that. I wonder if tbere isnt something going on with the bushings hanging things up.