CaseyJ955

Without knowing anything about your cardio risk factors I can say that many I have worked with since becoming an RN have lived with a pretty long history of heart issues. When I meet someone new the first thing I do (I work only in geriatrics and long term care) is read the chart, History & Physical tells quite a story usually. Some folks go many years with fairly serious diagnosis, much of it seems to come down to what else is going on. Also your compliance with treatments and recommended lifestyle modifications will probably have a significant impact. If nothing has been recommended then a consultation with a holistic cardiologist is probably a good idea. I have worked with some excellent Drs and others that cant be bothered with telling someone all the things they can do (or not do) to live the longest and fullest life possible with a given diagnosis. Very sorry your going through this, you are in my thoughts and I'm pulling for you.

I would leave them installed if you have OEM springs. Once I went to aftermarket springs I didnt need them anymore, they are still there but unplugged (MKI are hydraulically actuated, MKII are electric). I no longer need air PSI in the forks either.

Mark (Brake Crafters) is a prince of a guy, the way he does business is a benchmark other businesses should strive for. I got my Vmax MC kit and HH pads from him, someone on the Vmax forum passed his info to me with a glowing review. shipping was fast and he spent a while on the phone with me discussing brake pads and rotor wear characteristics before I chose HH pads. This guy knows his stuff! Best of all he has some OEM and cost effective aftermarket parts but he stocks or sells NOTHING FROM CHINA! That alone tells me he values quality over profit margin in a world where everyone is pushing the Chinese aft market crap and being elusive about country of origin. It sounds like hes going above and beyond, I think he knows the correct way to earn and keep loyal customers, I'm one for sure. I'm glad hes helping you out. Keep us posted on how it goes.

I just did three R6 calipers and one OEM caliper and each bore had the exact same thing in your pics, and I knew the seals were right because I was reusing the ones that came out (successfully I might add). Work it into the bore with your pickset, much lile the picksets I linked a few weeks ago. It does take some fidgeting but once in the groove it should look just like it did before you took them out, all nice and smooth, as much as it defies explanation his is my e perience. You will know when its in right, It feels counterintuitive but it will go in and seat just fine. I know its odd but it will go, make sure the grooveside is against the piston. I prelubed it with a little DOT and massaged them all in, I had the same feeling you do but tbey are in and working as tbey should with no leaks. As odd as it looks now it will go into the groove and find its home with some wiggle and profanity.

Ill take a shot at this since ive had mine appart more times than I care to recall. The explanation I got is that there is no beveled washer like the ones I fished out of my forks, IIRC that washer is supposed to be flat but distorts as the forks slam against the end of their travel, probably due to tired squishy OEM fork springs. Mine would easily bottom out before I installed Progressive springs. I flattened mine based on that and reassembled. There is a great vid on youtube of a guy replacing seals and bushings on a Venture and his looked flat to my old eyes, I cant link it but its there. I hope someone else chimes in on the "beveled" washer. Also the Yamaha dealer could not see a beveled washer on the fische for the Venture, so based on that I flattened mine, but I have had reoccurring issues with leaks on one side I believe due to issues unrelated to the washers. When my washers came out the were not equally beveled, one side was moreso. Another word on something that I have more certainty of, never ever use aftermarket seals, no matter how spendy and leak proof the marketing suggests they are or you will end up going back in at some point. This is a road I have been down on my Vmax and other machines, the Yamaha seals are as good as it gets to the best of my knowledge and experience. Check the youtube videos and hopefuly that will get you where you want to be. Hope this helps.

Im going to agree on all points, your experience mirrors mine. ABS would be a game changer. Once I delinked I could ride my driveway much better, the loose ridged gravel was a pucker factor 8.5 linked and 4.75 delinked. I think for a skilled rider that is used to it it's great but I noticed a much more controllable machine once I was back in charge of braking function. I ride some really lousy roads and in the zpring there is often sand and salt on the road and its killer for bikes. I fret if I cant control it completely and differently under varying conditions. On tight low speed and some slow surfaces I may not use fronts at all. I sort of like the option to lowside the bike to avoid a highside or direct collision if something unfortunate were to happen, I feel like that would be easier without the link. My rear caliper is off the front of an R6S with HH pad and it will lock up if I step hard, when I deli ked I used R6/HH on all three rotors so my results were not delinking alone.

When I was a child in elementary school it was customary for the class to rise and face the flag with hand over heart and recite the Pledge of Allegance each morning before class would begin. I got called out by a number of teachers for not reciting the "under God" part, even got sent up the hall a time or two. Once upon a time in middle America there was no tolerance for diversity. I didnt realize until today that it was actually an afterthought. Wow, memory lane, whichever version anyone embraces I hope you all have an awesome and safe 4th!!!!!

My driveway is almost 3 miles of rough dirt and gravel, I couldnt delink the brakes fast enough, it was so far from ideal that I 100% agree with the above statement suggesting it is a safety issue.

This sounds like very sound guidance, If I may toss in my .02, avoid ethanol tainted fuel, any carburetor equipped vehicle really. I store mine all winter with full bellies of pure gasoline and a splash of sea foam and in the spring they bark right to life. I let my Vmax sit for two weeks with ethanol fuel and it gummed up enough that a shotgun cleaning was not sufficient and I had to pull and clean carbs. Another thing I might suggest is visiting the Factory Pro website and hit the Vmax page for float adjustment as then tend to be a tad rich from the factory and these V4s prefer a tad lean. Vmax and Venture share the same carb config and float level adjustment. If you end up needing carb parts, K&L (iirc) is a fairly priced Japanese aftermarket mfr. NEVER try to save money by using Chinese kits or parts, its not worth the headache and you'll end up going back in with quality parts. Also of course the Yamaha OEM parts are excellent but not cheap. Check diaphragms for rips or pinholes, make sure all the slides are free without binding up. This assumes that your plugs are good and the carbs are synched up. The downpipe spit sizzle test is a quick way to make sure its hitting on all 4 cyl, its eerie how well these V4s run on only 3 pots. Welcome, she's a mighty purdy machine, I have no doubt you will love her once the kinks are sorted.

I gutted and reattached the valve, keeping it on the bike as a placeholder so I could use the OEM line. I did install an R6 (front) caliper on the rear and the different angle was awkward for the OEM line. It worked for awhile but it blew out on the last ride. I'll end up doing some measurements and getting a suitable non-Chinese aftermarket line. The R6 caliper and EBC HH pads did step up the rear braking power, it was a chore to bleed it until the pedal was firm and it sure wont put you over the handlebars, but it works well enough. Skydoc makes a neat tidy conversion kit for delinking and installing braided lines. I was too cheap to buy it but in retrospect I should have. If the rear works as it should but just not enough grab you might try going to an HH pad, it should make a difference. I just put EBC HH pads on my Vmax and the stopping power is notably better than with the OEM pads, with no other mods.

You got it!! Thats the way it's done! Dunno who the rider is but would love to meet them.

I love it! nobody can say that guy/gal has no backbone, or ingenuity for that matter.

Someone else just posted a pic of them here. No rubber, just a metal shield that holds onto the tube with a hose clamp. I like them because they seem to work great and have very little visual impact. As far as fork polishing, not a bad idea at all. I'll have to look into it. It's going to be another week before I get around to it so depends on what I find when I tear into it. It sounds like an extra piece of mind, that would be nice.

I have noticed that from time to time but it's been quite a while since I've been out during rally season. I plan for it so that I can just stay put right here, smoking meats, chillaxing with a good cigar, enjoying the wildlife and summer days. Motorists stay worked up for a bit after everyone goes home, it's a little extra hostility for awhile. I do understand though, it's a major inconvenience for anyone having to go about their daily life while it's all going on.

They do indeed give us a bad name. I live right near Sturgis and the only time almost as dangerous as the rally is the rest of the riding season afterwards. People obviously keep a seething hatred of us long after all the attendees get done showing off, running into each other and other stuff, clogging up ER and ambulance services and making a 20 minute drive take over an hour. Motorists cut us NO slack for quite a while afterwards. It's the equal opposite of squids. If your going to get sick here in Western SD you DO NOT want it to happen during the rally while folks with no business riding a full size bike figure it out the hard way! After a few rolling road blocks and half-speed scenic drives I get why people have such a deep bubbling contempt for us. It sucks but its not a mystery. All I can do is try and be courteous and not ride like an ******* in hopes that it's a small offset.

Congrats, my fav cal. I have a 7mm Ruger MKII stainless/composit leupold 3x9 varx2. You have a very fine thunderstick there mano!

Great looking trike, Congrats! Love that color.

I cant offer much model specific, I'm gen1, but I do have a great deal of gross, soupy, gray, dreary, depressing, cold, nasty, wet miles ridden. I lived in Seattle for 15 years and a Triumph Sprint (very poor weather protection from an R1 sized windscreen) was my daily rider year around. I use a Chevron rain suit, its compact and works fine, waterproof gloves at any Cabellas type store. I got some ice fishing gloves that work great. My boots are leather and got regular beeswax/oven treatment and worked okay. Bring extra socks, if it rains hard enough your socks will get wet regardless of boots. If it gets cold too then have tbermal underwear to slap on under your rain suit. I got my rain suit a little large for layering underneath. Visors can fog up, there are products to slow that down but with rain and cold I keep vents open and even open the visor one click if I'm fighting it. Also look at Pinlock visors or similar. Its really not bad at all if your prepared. I used to ride from Seattle to Soutth Dakota and back every year and a few times I got rain the whole way, every state. Not kidding on this. Keep a couple towels handy. I find rain downright depressing, but not riding away from Seattle even more so. You will be fine if your ready for it. Oh yea, make that rainsuit a hivis, heavy rain can cut doen visibility and its vital to be seen, also vital to know when its time to pitch the tent or grab a room. Rain riding can be pretty fatiguing so count on covering less miles per day. Above all have a gopd time and stay safe!

Those resemble the ones on my 89 that I recently raved about. Only difference is there is no external or visible shoulder, the clamp tang is inside, out of view. When they are on the bike they are virtually undetectable and sit close enough to the tube that it looks like they belong, that and easy on/off and very adjustable. Gaiters to me look out of place on a pavement bound machine but the protection is needed regardless. I have never had a pair of these but after digging into tbe forks a few times I learned to love this type of shield. I will seek out a other pair for my next street bike. Now that I look at it they may be the same as mine. I think your really going to like those!

I have a real love for air cooled VW, and today there is 0 technical justification for it. If I built another rail, it would be air cooled VW hands down, why? Cant explain, it is just the way it is. Emotional justification to ones self is all that is needed, if the machine stirrs the soul as you snap it to life and fasten your lid then anyone elses opinion of that bike means about as much as a royal wedding or the flavor of dirt on Mars. Just ease the clutch out and leave all the vamping and chatter behind. The gen3 is not likely suited to my needs but I'm glad it is to yours, "smitten" is all she wrote, no further explanation needed. Im glad you love the bike and im glad your here to share your experiences. Of course, if your ever in the Black Hills look me up, there is some damn fine riding up in these parts and would love to have any members here stop by, regardless of what your riding. One day if we dont get nuked we will argue single vs, 3 phase.

I have used both integral compressor horns on various applications, I think any real world difference is negligable at best. I had an unbranded version that was about as loud but lasted all of a year. I have a Wolo now on my Vmax and its plenty loud. Because of mounting limitations I had to seperate the integral unit and add a length of hose. The compressor and relay are mounted just forward of the air box in the pocket previously enjoyed by the front OEM coils and the horn, which now weighs very little, is mounted between the front downpipes. It would have been aesthetically tragic to try and mount the intact unit but grand if there is room on whichever bike its goong onto. What I feared about a train horn (mounting issues aside) or multi-trumpet design is that if it were really loud enough it might spook someone into running me down in a panicked bid to escapt the train. Im going to try the duel tone electric Hella (I think) horns on the Venture.

Thanks, the front plumbing is in tact but the tube just lays loose back by the pump. I left that long tube and plumbing on it to prevent debris from eentering the air chambers. It is not sealed, should it be? Also, I have a bunch of mobile1 0-30 synth motor oil for my lexus, is this what you recommend for forks with progressives? I know progressives arent top drawer stuff mut iirc the racetechs were stupid expensive. Do you have a fluid level in mind with this setup? Thanks again, I know I will get to pay all this forward. I like to share what I know and learn what I dont. Thanks!

Hey Doug, good to see you. I know it sounded like a snap decision but it goes a little deeper. Not sure if you really saw Rapid City when you were out here, but its a soul sapping 70k+ population and growing very quickly, and im only 10 minutes away. When I know I have to go to town it fills me with dread, not figurative make-a-point dread either. Rapid has two walmarts, TWO!!! In one single town!! Going to town should be two stop lights, not two walmarts! Anyways, Ive got my eye on some chunks of land, some with homes already. Its amazing how cheap land/homes can be when you want nothing to do with a city and are able to do some work. figure if I cant pay 40-50% down then I cant afford it. The decision to sell off another bike and a couple cars was made, which ones is a more difficult decision, but its almost as if Birtha (Venture) volunteered herself by getting fussy at the wrong moment. I knew on some level I would not be letting the Vmax go, Ive wanted her since 1985. Unless my tool stack sells she will remain for sale until I purchase land (fall hopefully). Trying to sell her is the right thing to do right now, but if nobody is interested it wont break my heart one bit. Even if I trade this cage for the 05 1200RT (considering but would rather cash) I hope to be allowed to remain here, this forum is about the finest I have known and I dont wanna get tossed for beemering it up haha.

Glad you got alot of that sorted out. I hear you on the stability issue, mine gave me some pucker moments before I got it home. Its solid and stable now. Pop it up on the center stand and check out steering head bearings, then swing arm, any slop needs to be addressed. Make sure there are no ears broken off that fork brace that the front fender mounts too. Steering head bearings are enough to cause what your talking about, and more. Mine were worn and maladjusted, and it effected ride quality significantly. There is an old Yamaha sponsored video, circa 1980s floating around on youtube with a full walk through of steering head adjustment. I cant link with this phone but its there. If none of this works there is another thing to try regarding loosening and tightening tree and axle bolts but I cant recall the order. It sure worked for me after I put mine back together and it was worse, if you end up getting to that point I'll find and link the thread in which I was given that great advice.