CaseyJ955

Maybe not a bad time to consider COPs. It was easy on my Gen1 Venture and Gen1 Vmax but have never done a Gen2. On the earlier models the wire can be removed and cleaned, this later one with an integral HT lead is different than my two earlier Yammie V4s. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?102440-Run-for-it-it-s-the-COPs!

Loving that project, it's a bike that may always have a following. A real classic anymore. Solid choice, keep us posted on progress!

Congrats!

I was dancing around the DO NOT use Fram filters thingy. If one goes to Wal Mart with the right box and wrong filter I'm sure they will give the correct filter rather than debate a guy that simply wants to exchange an item and not seeking a refund. BUT, If you bought a Fram filter and something else was in the box, you already won!

It was Wal-mart haha. The Wal-marts in the nearest town are pretty nasty, I dont even want to leave my car unattended in the parking lot. Besides my crime threshold is $9.99, I just step tall like that haha.

Wal-mart has a great return policy, I suspect if you go in with the box, even s reciept, you will get the filter that belongs in the box. That being said I do like the NAPA Gold filters, they are made by WIX. I got em' on the bikes and on the cars.

Thoughts and positive energy already there.

This might turn out to be about the cleanest Gen1 ever. Love where this build is going and cant wait to see how it progresses!

If I were locked in a bomb shelter and I had run out of roaches and rodents I may then, and only then, try and choke down a few bits of spam. Spam is to meat what Velveta is to cheese, or GM is to cars, or McDonalds is to fast food, or what... I digress haha. Really we have been pretty lucky, when was the last time on this forum anyone slipped through the cracks and hit us like this. I know it used to happen all the time all over, but I see it less. Maybe it's not as effective as it once was. It's strange to see it and I'm quite happy that is has become increasingly rare. I'm virtually free of adverts and trackers, but I had to take control of my browser to make that happen. Even as I type this post I'm blocking doubleclick, viglink and some various google related stuff. With the right browser and a small handful of the right add-ons dialed in aggressively the only spam one would commonly see is the kind that spurred this thread. There is no shame in protecting ones privacy and data, nor in removing annoyance and clutter. The downside is there is no way to block spamming users, they do a hit/run, so by the time you block them it's all over. Luckily this type of spam is not dangerous, and seems to be on the decline.

It sure looks and rides better with 16s, but the 4WD is not functioning at all, no light or anything. If luck is on it's side the 4WD system was disabled the whole time it had all the mismatched tires, as it seems to be now. I guess it's time to find a manual and do some troubleshooting.

I believe thats the part number for the MKII (86-93). The forks were a little different for the MKI (up to 85). I've scoped out the Progressive sight and they have the same PN for MKI and MKII. I'm 96.75% sure that when I bought mine there were two different part numbers for and aft 86. I did call progressive once for a little guidance on preload setting for my Vmax and my experience with their customer service was very positive, I would suggest a call to them for clarification of correct part numbers. Let us know what happens, I hope you get the right PN in that price, thats a pretty deep discount.

Yup, but I spect' it may balance out the speedo haha. The factory tire size is 215\70\14 which is charted as a 25.9" diameter, wheres the replacement snows would have a diameter of 26.6" I expect to feel it but I dont expect it to be significant. For the summer I'll look at which sizes 16" come in a diameter close to OEM.

I saw that thread while searching but I cant get to it. The link goes 404, I tried to search it out with terms and I just cant get there. I dropped it off in town this morning where it will receive the aluminum OEM 16" Explorer rims and four studded 225/60/16s. If I cant get it up my driveway tomorrow when I pick it up I'll know it's a Tcase and not a traction issue.

I've had the Metzler 800 and 880 on both my Vmax and Venture and I'm putting Metzler on my no fly list with Pirelli, but for very different reasons. I went with Dunlop E3s this time and I'm much more pleased with ride and wear characteristics. She is very light on her feet, she thinks she is a sport bike when I'm in the hills. I'm ready to put new shoes on my Vmax and I'm pretty sure I'll stick with Dunlop for these. I have yet to try the Avons so maybe I'll give those a spin. In my world the Metzlers always feather and/or cup to the point of being unservicable before the tread is gone.

I was offered a 1997 AWD Aerostar XLT van for $200 from my parents business so I picked it up and drove it home with 125k on the clock. It was the last year of Aerostar and the only year to get the 4.0 and 5 speed auto. I never realized how much more stomp the 4.0 has over the 2.8, 2.9 and 3.0, all of which I have owned previously in Rangers. As some know the Aerostar is not a minivan, it's built on a Ranger/Explorer frame with many parts interchangeable. It's an enclosed light truck more than a minivan. I loathe minivans, always have. This one gets a pass for 4wd and body on frame construction. I know Rangers and Exploders are everywhere and a few of these had this E4WD systems. I'm hoping a member here has experience with one, or some working knowledge of their operation/repair/trouble spots. What happened: I drove it home at night, dry roads. It ran and rode surprisingly well, the 4.0 has so much more stomp than the smaller V6 choices. Once on my gravel road I stomped the gas from a stop to test the 4WD system. There was no detectable tire spin, just a pretty hard launch for a heavy loaf of steel with a V6. Anyways, this vehicle came with 14" steel rims (OEM) and 3 different tire sizes, courtesy my late nephew who bought it briefly after it was taken out of service. It was driven hard like that for a few days before Dad took it back. Young Lake did exactly what I would have done at that age. I know he's watching me deal with it and I can feel his apology in my bones haha. I sure miss that kid. I sort of think of this van as being his so there is a twinge of sentimental value here. Today I was moving firewood and tires with it in 4" snow, it got pretty ugly trying to go back up the icy hill. It was not doing what an AWD/4WD should do. I cancelled the OD and eventually/reluctantly it clawed up, I'm not sure but it felt like the fronts were trying to do their thing, and maybe towards the end they were helping a little, but sure not as it should. So I suspect the transfer case is shelled from tire choices, but it did work in gravel just as it should. It almost feels as if the cold was preventing correct operation for whatever reason along the lines of wear or damage. I was alone so I couldnt see if I had mad front wheel slippage, it didnt feel like it but the front tires are in very sad shape. I went to the wrecking yard this morning and grabbed a set of aluminum 16" Explorer rims to upgrade from the 14" steelies to use some studded snows I have laying around for my Lexus, which being a correct wheel drive is a zero in the snow regardless of tire choice. Today when I drove it was just here and on snow/ice. It's never been off the property since I noticed the tire sizes. I'm having trouble finding any information on operation/repair of this Electronic 4WD system. Common faults? Some sources say the case has spider gears, others say clutch packs, others still say fluid coupling. I doubt the later. I'm hoping that someone here has a Ranger/Exploder with experience using the E4WD system. The owners manual is shockingly vague. Says use the switch (if there is one) and youll see the light (if there is one). I cant see hub assemblies, looks like an Full Time 4WD with a transfer case that can switch on/off connecting the fronts. I'm not sure if the front driveline rotates all the time, but I dont see any front hubs, manual or otherwise. Whats the real skinny on these systems? If it's not a terrible fix I'll do that and leave it alone. I may not even be understanding the operation of it. It was emphasized that this is NOT an AWD, but an electronically controlled honest 4wd system. I think it's a gray area myself. I read that the fronts kick in only in the event wheel slippage is detected. If that is the case than maybe the xfer case was spared, unless the different tire sizes created the illusion of slippage to the van and it tried to engage the fronts, eating itself form the inside out. I would like to fix it and leave it as OEM if feasible. I'll replace it with a manual Ranger/Exploder Xfer case if it goes that far. If I have to pull the case it's getting swapped out with a manual case from a Ranger. It would be a plus right now to have some real information on this system before I dive into it. I understand how 4wd systems work, and how they differ from AWD, and I know there are many different AWD systems and I understand how most of those work too. This particular system is new to me and not much online information. Any light anyone can shed on these systems would be fantastic. TIA!

I would strip wire and use the copper strands individually, old Ma Bell wire from back in the day are individually insulated and one copper wire makes them rigid, that works fantastic too for some detail also. My best work was a Ferrari 348, the next one I do is a bottle nose pete wrecker. Mine are all put away so I cant get photos but I have many many left to build. Mostly classic trucks and towtrucks peppered with the cars I would build given infinite money and time. Great thread with some very nice workmanship shown.

Welcome! Radio and CB were not accessories but parts of the Royale models. I have all that on my bike and it all works, if you cant find anything maybe we can talk. I would not necessarily be averse to shedding all that weight. I've never turned on the CB or stereo after checking that it worked when I bought the bike. If you get the E4 error on the air ride there is a fix, also it only works with the key in acc/engine not running, took me a few minutes to figure that out. The 1st get bikes are cut into MK1 and MKII, that happened in 86 with the 1300 and significantly bigger luggage capacity. Gen2 was just after that and not much compatibility of knick knacks but some mechanical stuff may swap over. The Progressives are very well worth it, you will find plenty on the fork rebuild. I did it myself. These are bushing forks so when you get the seals, also a good idea to get the bushings too. DO NOT NOT NOT use Chinese parts, ever. For fork seals OEM is the way to go if you dont want to repeat the job every season or two. boats.net and another that escapes me are good sources for OEM parts without the OEM price tag the dealers charge. Head bearing adjustment is critical too, so as you move forward with the forks dont forget to service the head bearings. If they need replacement, "all ballz" does make a decent bearing and seal kit for the steering head. With the time and mileage on this bike it will probably need some love there. Stay away from Ethanol tainted fuel if you can. If you cant then wash it down with pure gasoline and Seafoam. Dont let it sit with ethanol tainted fuel for more than a day or two. Popular oil is T4 Rotella 15-40 and NAPA (WIX) filters are cheap and known to work well on our machines. The brakes are linked, definately read up on that as it is not exactly like normal bike brakes. In fact mine was a little frightening on the gravel until I delinked them. Others will have tons of good info, I'm forgetting plenty, but you are in the right place. I'm sure you will formulate many more questions. Did your bike come with the CB and stereo removed or did it never have these items. If I'm not mistaken all the Venture "Royale" models had the stereo and CB, and the others never came with these options. Anyways, here are broken peices of stuff, do some reading in the 1st gen tech section and you will find more good reading relevant to your model. Again, Welcome!

Fantastic, that looks nicer than most homes. TTs have come a long ways since I lived in a 1966 19/ Airstream. With something awesome like that you could stay on the road indefinitely. Congrats once again!

Nice, all that slicing and dicing power and no brakes! Imagine how much even basic liability would be! I want one.

It looks almost too comfortable! Great bike, I also really like that color.

I love me a flat six, I was going straight after a wing but once I threw a leg over it was clear, the Goldwing was designed for folks that have no lower body. I'm only 6,2 and the wing was not gonna happen. Too bad, they are very nice bikes.

Couldnt agree more. We could cut gov/political offices by 80% across the board and be much better off. The only issue I see is that the personal responsibility that comes with personal freedom is in very short supply. The evidence of uninformed voters is EVERYWHERE! I would welcome voter pre-screening, but apparantly in this liberally damaged society we have carved out for ourselves we are MONSTERS for suggesting that anyone should so much as show ID at the poles! We are so damn backwards it's hard to watch. Put me down for a voter competency mandates!

It's painful all. I found the way out though. I have yet to see a political commercial (or any) or get the stupid political robocalls. Ooma premium, saved 30/mo over landline and I get the community blacklist, which means I NEVER get political or robocalls, or scammers. Never. The annoying political calls are just a distant memory. My phone went from a constant source of annoyance to a very quiet appliance that is more for my convenience than the convenience of others. Netflix and wifeys Prime, Prime sucks because there is a small amount of forced content before the feature starts. Thats enough to keep me away from it mostly but Netflix is awesome, and cheap, and above all else there is no forced content, like advertising or political spots. I didnt do all this to avoid political rhetoric, I did it because I found myself being so annoyed by constant ads that I was surfing every time ad spots started. It was years before I could finish a show or movie. I made some changes, changes that not only saved me over $300/mo but also made life so much more pleasant. Now during election season I'm doubly glad. If I were within my rights to do so, I would get in my Samurai and go all around town mowing down political signs, the temptation has been great, lemme tell ya! When I'm in charge of the world there will be no political advertisement, there cant be because I will remove money from politics. Voters will be forced to go and read up on the issues themselves and formulate a plan and list of favored candidates. Gone will be the days of folks voting for reasons not related to the qualifications. Everybody vote. NO! If you dont really care than please stay away from the poles, if you are not informed, take a seat and leave the voting to those that have bothered to learn the issues and candidates from sources other than TV smear spots and political turd-flinging.

They bolt right onto the gen1, I'm not sure if they fit a gen2 but here is a good thread that may shed some light on what you want to do. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?42504-v-max-final-drive I sold my extra Vmax final drive to a member here recently. I may have another one coming up as I want to put a Venture final drive on my 99 Vmax. Cost of a VMX pumpkin tend to run on either side of $100 depending on when you look. You should be able to get a decent one in the 75-100 range. They are heavy and shipping might be killer but when I shipped mine it did fit into a USPS flat rate box, barely. If the seller is willing to use a flat rate and not charge you up the caboose for shipping then you should be set for a reasonable price. You can also swap just the gears and keep the housing (assuming compatibility with gen2 which is unknown to me). You would have to rent a puller for that though, Morley has one if you go that route. I live where the roads are wide ass open so the Venture gear is a good thing when riding between SD, NE and CO. The Vmax has lousy highway gears, not kidding, but the Venture transmission has a taller 5th gear to offset that, at least true with the Gen1. If I were a city guy I would drop the Vmax final in my Venture without thinking twice about it. The only advantage I can see about Venturedom within city limits is more cargo space than a Squareback. If your leaving stop lights all day then that VMX gear might feel pretty darn nice!

https://www.brakecrafters.com/ Mark at the above business, he's amazingly knowledgeable and helpful. I got my HH EBC pads (and several other bike brake items) and I cant recommend him highly enough. I have been really happy with the EBC HH pads but I put them on at the same time I delinked and slapped R6 calipers on, so a direct comparison is not possible, just to say that it's night and day from before with the brakes in OEM Configuration. I put the same EBC HH pads on my Vmax with an otherwise stock brake system and it stops quite well for it's level of go, no notable squeaks or noise. In the spirit of full disclosure I have never used Kevlar pads on a bike so I'm not sure how they will compare. With the online sources there is always the risk of someone trying to sell you Chinese counterfeit parts, some sites are composed almost entirely of counterfeit items. it's much more common than folks believe IMHO. I have had pretty good luck by carefully looking at the auction and the seller/feedback/longevity.