CaseyJ955

No way! Check Ujoints and bearings if nothing else appears. I just ditched my last spare pumpkin, if you are in dire need I'll pull my pumpkin and overnight it to you and you can get it back to me later on. I can always play with Maxine (Vmax) until then. I hope something simple presents and an easy thing to sort. Luckily these pumpkins are fairly common and not real expensive.

No, use your thumb, it's so much more rewarding than using a stick, anyone can take a bear out with a stick, but YOU wanna be one of the cool kids, yea? Apology not necessary but accepted of course . I figured the crazy weather probably changed your plans a little , no problem at all. Main thing is you stayed safe and hopefully didn't get too soaked. With the weather around here as it has been I assumed you would likely get held up or changed up. Theres always next time, enjoy the awesome ride through some great country!

Happy 4th folks! Be safe but still blow some stuff up!

Bears are all growl, just jam your thumb in his eye and he will see things your way haha. Dont put that wet weather gear away just yet if your headed in this direction.

A good honest tech is a VERY hard thing to find. If he has done things correctly in the past then I would call him and explain what you found, my guess is he would be willing to make it right. Anyone can err once and a while, it's how they go about rectifying it that defines their character, IMHO. If it were me, I would talk to him, nice and tactful because it seems like his past behavior was solid. Benefit of the doubt perhaps. If your still not satisfied then I would start looking for another tech. I'm pretty quick to vote with my wallet.

THAT will probably make a nice difference. I replaced my races and bearings with All Ballz racing parts, very pleased. If your lucky you can clean/grease/adjust. Theres a great video on youbute about Venture steering bearing adjustment, it dates back to the 80s and you will know it when you see it, the 80s cop mustache and porn quality dub give it away, but it's a super helpful video on where the adjustment should land. Glad the re solder worked! It's nice to have that functioning.

I believe it would, I plan to find out but it's going to be a little bit of time before I'm ready to start a prototype manifold. I have to get moved first. I'm planning on using a progressive 32/36 and I have a couple old Dells and a few other Weber cores to play with. I'll bet that PICT delivers some pretty nice torque, but I also believe for optimal top end performance at least one more throat would be beneficial. I've used the progressive Webers on old Ford 4s, Datsuns, Toyotas and VW (air and H2O), but never on a bike. I have a very strong hunch that it will be an ideal conversion, the only stopping point I see is I'm not willing to sacrifice MPG, and it seems that the OEM rack generally gives up about 40mpg if dialed in correctly. I'm convinced that with some dialing and jetting (there are many ways to tailor a Weber) it will work (maybe) nearly as well as the OEM rack, get comparable MPG and be more reliable with less maintenance, also servicing it should be much easier than wrestling with the OEM rack. I'm so convinced that as soon as I get some cleared shop space this is my first project. I do not feel this would be ideal for a Vmax but for a Venture, I'm very optimistic. It's all hunch at this point, but I'm very bent on proving or debunking this. I've never understood why there is no Weber conversion on the market already, maybe I'll learn why.

Most of the maintenance schedules I've used require DOT to be flushed out every 2 years or so, I'm guilty of occasionally getting more seasons out of DOT than less haha. Make sure the inside of the master cyl is good and clean and no sludge or debris over the tiny ports on the floor of the MC. Your oil choice is what many of us are using, I use the conventional non-synthetic T4 version of the Rotella 15-40 but I know others are are using semi or full synth. I know some oils can interfere with clutch operation but Rotella seems to work really well. Generally I dont use synthetic engine or gearbox oils unless called for by the manufacturer, but If I'm not mistaken many here use the T5 or T6 Rotella versions with no trouble.

It was a misspelling on my part, Patency is the correct spelling. A healthy dose of dyslexia means this can happen when I blaze past spellcheck. My apologies for the confusion, I should have chosen a different word. From Merrian=Webster for "Patent" (same spelling as the copyright protection) "4 : affording free passage : unobstructed a patent opening" From Dictionary.com #2 "Medicine/Medical. the condition of not being blocked or obstructed."

What is the symptom, whats going on? What do you use for oil?

Sorry your still having trouble. Silly quick things to look at and try before going "in". Have you got fresh NGK plugs? Inspection of plug caps and HT leads where they leave the coils for the notorious green gunk? This next one will sound irrelevant but it matters. System grounds, cleanliness and integrity of all grounds and connections. I know it only happens when warm but electrical issues can produce some counterintiutive symptoms mimicking other unrelated issues. Perhaps it's time to remove the plugs, check gap and read them to see if one plug is inconsistent with the others. Check for patancy of the overflow tube setup from the top of the carbs. This one is critical, were the carbs synchronized after the rack was reinstalled on the bike? What your describing would fit really well with the carbs being out of whack with each other or less likely some out of spec float levels. It's amazing how badly a "tech" can **** up float levels and synchronization of carbs. Synchronization is reasonably simple but takes a touch of love and care, not unlike making a perfect tortilla. When you had the carbs done did you R&R them on the bike yourself or did the shop/person that did the carbs remove/replace the rack from the bike. I know there is a thing known as bench synching (it does get it closer) but this does NOT replace the need to do it again with the carbs on the bike at op temp. What is your elevation? Hows the air filter looking? How old is your battery? Current mileage and mileage of last valve adjustment? When warm idling as the issue is presenting is there any unusual smoke or smell. If you have an IR thermometer or a willingness for the downpipe spit sizzle test (thats how I do it) then thats another quick thing you can do to see if one hole is not pulling it's weight while the issue is presenting. If your using ethanol tainted fuel, stop. Especially do not let it sit with ethanol in it. Always wash it down with pure gasoline if you do need to use ethanol. Ethanol and carbs dont really play well together, especially for storage. Sometimes ethanol is all you can buy, unfortunate indeed, but dont store it with that stuff inside. I know this was mentioned above but it bears repeating, the carb rack needs to be fully seated into the intake boots, and the air box needs to be firmly seated atop the carbs, the air filter MUST be in place. If you have a K&N style filter try going back to the pleated paper filter just for fun. Once the carbs and air box are securely seated the hose clamps only need be decently snug, not wicked tight. What happens when the symptom is presenting and you apply the choke? Oh, to A your Q, you should be able to find a different fan switch, I think there are some Ford PNs that work right over and drop the trigger temp a little bit, but I'm really thinking this route may be premature, at least before a few other things are ruled out.

Nice! Just out of curiosity, what was causing the issue?

At the very least a full disassembly and inspection of all internal parts would be prudent before pouring any money in. Maybe you could peek into the block with a borescope and see if it's clean or sketchy. With that much water inside for who knows how long. if the planets are lined up correctly you may end up with some usable spare parts. Same for the carbs, knowing what a carb rack brings when offered for sale they might be worth seeing what can be salvaged. Some of the internal parts have value, possibly to you since your doing a build. The heads would possibly be salvageable and may serve on your new build depending on what you see when you mock-install the motor core into the frame. It sounds like fun, wish I could get my hands in there too haha.

If nothing above works then just for fun, slide the slide out and remove the needle, slide the slide back in and see if it suddenly moves freely. Also make sure the slide is clocked as the others, I believe the vacuum port goes downward but fact check me on that, it's been a while since I've been into any of these carbs. I once ran into this on my Vmax, a couple slides binding after doing some tuning, jetting and trying different needles. It turned out to be the needles, they must have been 1/1 zillionth of a turn to tight. They need only be barely snug. I backed them out, cleaned things up (again) and very carefully snugged them back down. It worked. In this case the needles were stage 1 DJ and not stock but I do recall having to be very careful when I went to the stage 7 needles. Mine worked freely only when barely snug. Play around with how snug by sliding the slide in and see how it works, easy to do before buttoning the whole thing back up. I want to emphasize the need to be very gentle with this. In theory a straight needle assembled clean and proper should never drag, but even with brand new needles it was necessary to check this part of the assembly to get myself back to normal and free the slides. Also check to make sure the needles are straight and true. Make sure the pieces are in there correctly and there is nary a speck of dust in there or it may cause the needle to cock or bind just a little bit, enough for it to drag on the emulsion tube and stop the slide from acting freely. Again, just snug, resist the urge to over tighten these things. The slide is old as hell and brittle, it wont take a great deal to break it. Mine have been fine for a couple years barely snug. Good luck, I hope you get it worked out.

I got all my Black Hills trail maps installed and working great but when I took this thing out to CO last year I found that it would not navigate anything. I put it away when I got back instead of addressing the issue, which as it turns out is the lack of a good street map. I could pay Garmin another bone to get theirs, but after shelling out hundreds for the unit I decided against that. I see there are a few open source maps and even folks using outdated maps to escape paying, which I'm not averse to but the maps from my 60CSX dont seem to work. Does anyone have any experience with any quality open source maps on the free/cheap side of things. Anyone have any maps that would work, I really rely on this to keep me away from cities. Any links to some quality maps or a site that deals with this sort of thing. I found a few sights but wondering about quality of maps. I would hate to get out there and find my GPS useless, again. Outdated maps are fine for me, they are more than ample for the places I end up. I just fired up my Venture for the first time this year, the Black Hills are already jammed with tourists and I MUST get the F out of here for a few days! Any knowledge on said maps would be welcomed with commercial grade gratitude. The rolling vacant plains are calling out to me in a big way this fine day! Thanks!!

Congrats on the new bike, nothing like a brand new machine to start the year!

I think the Gen1 exh ports exit right where the frame is and use of an older engine requires cutting up/modifying the Gen2 frame. Definitely something interesting to watch for. As you say, a chopper is a good thing and affords ingenuity! I have bits of an 85 Vmax ready to hit the landfill very soon. The pumpkin is gone but the final drive housing and a few other knick knacks are there. If you need any of the VMX bits for your build let me know.

I believe the 99 motor will bolt into the frame but the exhaust ports are a little different (which is why Vmax heads wont work on the Gen2). Look at the exhaust ports and see if you wont need to do a custom exhaust to use the 99 motor in a Gen1 frame. There may be other complications I'm not aware of, it's not a swap I have tried.

RAM mounts are not sparkly but darn good quality. Food for thought anyway. I'm one of those guys that just looks for sales and/or previously loved versions of things I want. That being said you have a pretty decent list going, we'll have to see how it looks when you get her all tailored up to your liking. I am a habitual cheap-ass of the highest order. Mostly I shop on Ebay and patience is how I get the score deals. Even though I'm cheap I avoid Chinese products like the plague. It does cost more but I need to know I can rely on my equipment, my bike and I can get pretty far from home sometimes and failures on the road can be quite $$$$$. One place I would strongly advise not buying Chinese is for maintenance/repair items for the bike itself. Carb parts, seals, gaskets, brake pads or any hard parts. There are often non-Chinese aftermarket solutions with savings over OEM parts but still known good quality. Oh yea, Welcome!!

You and me both. All that hype over yet another V twin. When I saw the headlamps I knew we had a 1700 V4 coming our way.

89 Royale Gen1, stock except for COPs and Ignitek. It has no trouble reaching triple digit speeds. I usually back out before I get way up there but it gets to the buck-teens with what feels like some headroom left. I travel with a Garmin 64 series and I can say that in traditional form, the OEM speedo is optimistic by a few %. 120 indicated is closer to 110 by GPS. If she wont pull to redline in 5th under the given conditions then a trial swap to a Vmax pumpkin would be a good choice IMHO. It's cheap and fairly easy to do, and just as easy to reverse. At speed it should raise your RPMs by about 400 making a redline pull in 5th gear more achievable but would probably feel a little busier at speed too. I know you said that acceleration was ample, but a Vmax pumpkin would liven it up even more. I would also expect it to have an adverse effect on MPG r/t elevated RPM at any given speed. It's like replacing the 3.73 in your big block Cougar to a 4.11. I left mine alone because I like the relaxed cruising RPMs and very VERY rarely ride anywhere near a city. 90% of my bikes waking hours are cruising in 5th gear along wide open roads so leaving the shorter (longer legs) final drive gear was the right choice for mine. Also learned that shops normally dont spend much time and love on a carb synchronization, this is a good activity for the bikes owner to get the absolute most out of the existing hardware. A Morgan Carbtune can be had for less than a bone and will enable you to get the throats within a gnats belch of each other. If you live at altitude then it might not be a waste of time to check float levels and read plugs to make sure it's not a tad rich. I'm less familiar with Gen2, but Gen1 Venture and Vmax are known to be a bit rich right off the showroom floor. I live at 4000' and ride upwards from there so leaning things out got me a palpable but marginal boost to top end eagerness. Also you may get a small boost from using pure gasoline instead of ethanol-tainted fuels. In my experience there is no gain to use premium unless its the only way to avoid ethanol. I notice a slight benefit to performance and MPG with pure gasoline. I know we have our share of robust gentlemen here on Gen2 bikes and doing great. I'm suspecting that a careful tune and pure fuel may just have enough of a cumulative effect to make the bike ample, maybe tune it and ride it for a few weeks to see if it really needs to have more money spent. I leaned out my Venture and Vmax and got small but notable gains. Do you have a service history on the bike? What altitude to you ride at mostly? If your near Sturgis this year I'm happy to have you swing it by so we can throw the Carbtune on it and maybe see if anything is amiss. Here is another thread where this sort of thing was tossed around. I hope it helps. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?78006-Performance-upgrades

This has come up before, even with the VW carb. I had a hard time wrapping my brain around how that carb could feed a 7500rpm 100hp V4, but your the second one I've heard say it works just fine. Looking forward to knowing how it does in highway passing situations and highway mpg. I've been kicking around a box of Weber progressives and some throwback PICT carbs from the olden days. Every time carb conversions come up I cant help but get interested. Honestly I think the SV carbs are ideal when they work correctly, but thats the catch. It's not hard to drop $600-800 on having the OEM carbs professionally gone through, I love my bike but it's 30 years old, not interested in dumping a grand into the OEM rack. I definitely see the rationale for this setup. I know there are options out there that open up the PICT barrel, after you have it all worked out I would love to know where you end up with jetting and any other alterations. How does it behave from 4000-redline? Are you satisfied with its pull? I like it, please keep the info coming as you get some seat time with it.

I've had to replace start caps on well pump motors and air compressor motors. It's not an uncommon issue with motors that include caps to get em' spinnin'.

Through the overflow tube? it's hard to see in the pic. I believe even one stuck needle valve will send enough raw fuel through the overflow tubes to overwhelm the other carbs too, aside from leaking out externally. If the above guidance does not get you on the road then you should be able to remove the overflow tube set and see which specific carb/s are actually flooding. That might be handy if you get the carbs out and see nothing to indicate any issues. If the above does not work and the problem persists it may become necessary to slide (see how easy I made that sound) the carb rack out. I would venture to say that if it was stored all winter with ethanol then you may have to manually scrape and blow the crap out of each carb. If no ethanol then maybe a few taps with a screwdriver handle and some fresh fuel/seafoam will loosen her up a bit.