Rick Butler

Jim, My money would be on Buddy. With your running lights and electrics, I would bet that you were discharging your battery. I usually turn my running lights off when I run our vests. Rick

JC has a point, Unless you are just in love with your heel shifter and can't do without it, get the Yamaha billet toe shifter http://www.starmotorcycles.com/star/accessories/acscitemdetail/5/4/83/404/all/all/67/0/detail.aspx It allows you the freedom to move your feet (both of them) all the way back on the boards. Then you shift just like you did back in the good old days....1 down and 4 up. But the stock one is adjustable but only to the point that the heel shifter peg will go down and upshift the trans before the peg rubber hits the boards. Hope this helps, Rick

Jim, I'm still using a 99 manual for my 2002 RSV. I don't think there are any significant changes from 1999 to 2007 outside of colors and emblems. But if you have not checked the Yamaha site, I think you can find them at: http://www.starmotorcycles.com/star/service/servicehome/home.aspx Look at "Buy Manuals On-line" where the service manual is $60, if they are in stock. Hope this helps, Rick

Don, If it were me, I'd ride it for another 500 miles after you have gotten the engine broken in and changed out all of the fluids. And I'd suggest using a premium synthetic MC motor oil and especially a synthetic gear lube in the final drive on this change out. And after this, if the whine or chirp is unbearable, take it back to the dealer and complain about the noise. If they are worth their salt, they will change out your Primary Driven gear with a looser one. It's not a chronic problem with the RSV or RSTD and Yamaha knows about it. But if the noise is just a mild annoyance that you can really live with, don't bother with it and just ride it. Straight cut gears meshing together will ALWAYS make some noise. That's why I suggest a good synthetic motor oil, to keep the metal from touching as much as possible. Just my opinion, Rick

Monsta, The fact of the matter is that since day one, pulling a (or any) trailer will void your factory warrenty, especially on a rear end claim. This is primarily due to the fact (IMHO) that Yamaha is very influenced by their legal staff and they will not do or support anything that will cause them any liability. In other words pulling a trailer can be dangerous if not set up and pulled properly, which they WILL NOT endorse. But in reality we all pull trailers and most of us have never had a problem. And there is an entire industry dedicated to the fact that touring bikes pull trailers, from pop-up campers to suit case size cargo trailers. But the nice thing about this issue is that it is entirely in the hands of your Yamaha dealer service manager, not Yamaha America. Whatever your service manager says to Yamaha they will take with no problem. So this is why you should establish a good relationship with this person, so he (or she) will be on your side when it comes to a claim that might be a problem. But if you do pull a trailer and have a rear end claim (and do not have a good relationship with this person) I'd take the hitch off and hide (or take off) all suspect trailer wiring. Because if they have to bring in a factory Yamaha Service tech and he sees a trailer hitch that will be it? But in answer to you other questions, I would not go above 40 lbs (or 60 at the most) or less than 20 lbs on the hitch, depending on the rest of the rider and passenger weight. What most folks do not realize is that as the bike and trailer moves, this weight lessens. Now on the max weight of a trailer, I pulled a 300 lb camping trailer that carried 300 lbs (600 lbs total). Remember this is only rolling weight resistence, which only requires horsepower and good brakes to get it moving and stop it. Hope this helped, but do what you need to, Rick Oh, here is a picture of my new 91 pulling a Travelite camper and a Flexit sidecar in the Black Hills. Those Harley riders didn't know what to think about it?

Goose, This is a problem that I have been meaning to resolve for some time now, but like Bill said none of the aftermarket stator companies make a higher output stator for the Royal Stars in any year. They make them for the 1st gens but for some reason something changed in the design when Yamaha changed up their V-4 in the RSV. Now I have been in contact with the engineers at ElectroSport (fna, Electrex) who have been making good stators for years. But what they need is an old stock stator to tear down and rebuild so they can build some. I guess it's like any industry, if they don't have a large demand, they think there is no market yet. But running 2 electric vests and high output lights will run down any Venture battery, 1st or 2nd gen. So is there anyone out there that can afford to take their stator cover off and remove the stator and send to these guys? In return, they will send you a brand new high output stator. If I didn't live in Texas where I can ride all year long, I would have sent them one years ago. In fact I have even contacted several Yamaha shops to see about getting one that has been replaced under warrenty, but for some reason Yamaha wants them all back? ElectroSports web site is: http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_electrical_home.html In fact here is the information I received from one of the engineers regarding building one: Rick Yes I need to tear it up, It will take about 30-60 day before I had new ones, And about 30-40 for a preproduction unit, I could supply you that one, If you needed it. How much more output are people needing. Paul Brent Electrosport Industries 615 S Tremont Street Oceanside CA 92054 PH+1 (760) 433-0184 FX +1 (760) 433-1052 Web www.electrosport.com Email paul@electrosport.com Hi Rick Do you have a burned out stator for the Royal Star, If you do then this would speed up us making a new one. If you could supply us a used one then as soon as we have the production units done I can supply you a new one for free. Look forward to hearing from you. Paul Brent Electrosport Industries 615 S Tremont Street Oceanside CA 92054 PH+1 (760) 433-0184 FX +1 (760) 433-1052 Web www.electrosport.com Email paul@electrosport.com There you have what I know, Rick

Well Guys, Thanks for the input, but I was really wanting input from those of us that are AMSOIL distributors, of which I thought we have several on this forum. Why I bring this up is that I was ordering a couple of oil filters and when I tried to find the standard SMF103 filters that I have been using for quite some time now, they were not available. So I started looking through the system and found the EAOM103 filters and quickly read through the write up where these new designed filters have only been available since July of this year: Ea Motorcycle Oil Filters (EaOM) AMSOIL INC. revolutionized the filtration industry with its introduction of AMSOIL Ea Air and Ea Oil Filters. For the first time exclusive nanofiber technology – the same technology used in the Abrams M1 tank and other heavy duty applications – was made available for automotive applications. Now, AMSOIL has made this outstanding new technology available for motorcycles. Nanofiber Basics Because the nanofibers in AMSOIL Ea Motorcycle Oil Filter media are so small, there are more pores per square inch, allowing for higher dirt-holding capacity and lower pressure drop compared to traditional filter medias. Thinner media fibers produce more uniform pore size distribution, improving the filter’s overall ability to capture and retain particles. Ea Motorcycle Oil Filters Ea Motorcycle Oil Filters feature a specially constructed silicone anti-drainback valve and a nitrile sealing gasket to go along with the full-synthetic Ea nanofiber media. The anti-drainback valve provides excellent protection during startup and remains flexible in all temperatures, and the nitrile sealing gasket resists chemical breakdown, providing excellent durability and ensuring long filter life. AMSOIL Ea Motorcycle Oil Filters are fluted for easy removal from the motorcycle and are available in a chrome-plated alternative to the normal black filters. Superior Filtration The unique construction and full-synthetic media of AMSOIL Ea Motorcycle Oil Filters allow them to provide unmatched performance in motorcycles and other power sports equipment. EaOM Filters last longer, stop smaller dirt particles and offer less restriction than other filters. Ea Motorcycle Oil Filters provide filtering efficiency of 98.7 percent at 15 microns, outperforming the best cellulose/synthetic blend media on the market. For maximum engine protection, AMSOIL recommends changing the EaOM every time you change oil. Well I'm all for improved products of which I know AMSOIL has been on the leading edge of this industry since the beginning of synthetic oils, but I was a bit surprised with the change in price. However it appears that the folks at AMSOIL have come up with the best oil filters on the market looking at their filtration numbers. And just so everyone knows, I use AMSOIL MC 10/40 and now their new EA filter and change every 7,500 to 8,000 miles. Just my contribution to the environment and a resource that is not renewable as well as protecting my engine. Rick

OK all of you AMSOIL Distributors, Tell us all that you know about the differences between the new EA oil filters compared to the previous SMF filters. And does this change justify the change in price IYHO? And don't give us the AMSOIL literature sound bites, but what you have learned and feel is important. And while you are at it, what drain and filter change intervals are each of you using on your Ventures? Curious minds need to know, Rick

Ken, The first piece you asked about is the ball milled engine breather cover at the same dealer as the ball milled engine covers that Buddy linked to: http://www.dgy.com/eshopprod_cat_2085-6666-4199_product_206197.BILLET_ENGINE_BREATHER_COVERS.htm And at $93 that is a good price, where MRCycles wants $103. Rick

Jack, If it's one of the 1200 slides you can separate it fairing easy. But they changed the 1300 slides to where this is more difficult. Also fyi, the 1300s had a larger lift hole in the end of the slide since you are using parts from more than one bike. There is a plastic washer or ring on the bottom the the rubber that when you can get it to slip loose from the groove, it will slip down to where the rubber will come loose. But like Dan suggested, I'd use some adhesive putting the rubber back on before installing the ring back on. I'm really sold on the adhesive qualities of GOOP that you can get at Home Depot and Lowes. Rick

Bigin, Just shift gears around 3,500 and above and you should be just fine, especially in 5th. If you get below 3,200 you are lugging the engine. Rick

Bigin, If this happens at 2,500 rpm in 5th then you are below the ideal rpm limit (3,200) for the Venture and yes it will shake a bit. But if I understand you, when you get it over 3,200 rpm then it smooths out? In other words, the shift points are anything above 3,200 rpm, where it really likes 4,000 to run in it's sweet point. Now if it's a hesitation from 800 to 1,000 rpm you have a transition issue from the low speed circuit (the air mixture screws) to the mid range circuit when the slides start coming out and putting you on the main jets. But if it's the first problem, then you really don't have a problem and just need to ride it like your ex-wife's lawyer is after you. But if it's the 2nd issue let me know. Rick

Greg, I ran across a similar problem a while back on the front brakes of my 2002 RSV and I was even running stainless lines. But saying that about new lines, it is possible for a stock line to get ruptured on the inside and not show a leak. Are you still running 1983 brake lines? But back to where I originally started with bleeding the front brakes on my RSV. In getting one line from the master to feed 2 calipers, there is one line going down to a block at the bottom triple tree. At this block the two lines going to each caliper is attached to the block by a banjo bolt at a center banjo fitting. There are a couple of places in this junction for an air bubble to get trapped (just like the metering junction for your integrated system) and as long as there is one bubble in the system, it will not pump up. This where I had to get UGLY with the brake lever and pump the living crap out of it and it finally started pumping up, where I guess I lodged the stuck bubble loose. So use the MityVav to get the lines primed and then bleed them the old fashioned way and get ugly with the pedal before you hold it and open the bleed valve. Do the left front first and then the rear. The best way is to power bleed them from the master cyclinder but you have to drill and tap a line into a second master cylinder top cover. And then seal it to where it will not leak when fluid is pumped through the top of the master cylinder into the system. This get's all of the air out at the caliper. I made one out of a 1 gallon pump-up insectiside sprayer and it works perfect. But you have to load it with about 2 quarts of fluid so you don't go dry and pump air into the system. I've attached a couple of pictures of the one I made for the rear master cylinder reservoir so you can get an idea of what I'm describing if anyone wants to try building one. But like I said, you have to destroy a master cylinder top, where I don't think top covers for a 1st gen rear master cylinder are easy to come by. Good luck, Rick

Just an update to this project, In my original analysis, I spoke of another valve I had found on-line from Speedway Motors that I felt would work out better than the Wilwood valve I used on this project. And I mentioned that I had no first hand knowledge of how this valve would work and that someone else would have to investigate this valve. Well after I went down again with another rear-wheel lockup (even after I had already changed out the rear brake to a 2-piston caliper) I decided to see how this valve would work and installed one along with a new rear Galfer stainless line that I described in the above analysis. And it worked out just as I had felt and it installed much better than than the Wilwood valve by the fact it is a more straight through design. However, the adjustment knob is much freer than the Wilwood knob and really needs to be drilled and safety-wired. But just one special note on bleeding the rear line with this valve. With the valve completely closed it will still allow fluid to the caliper but will not let it bleed off quick enough when the pedal is released, thus locking the caliper to the rotor. Therefore you need to open the knob up at least one turn when you first install it and it will bleed and work just fine. Then adjust it to where you feel comfortable. I went with 2 turns out. Below is the link to Speedway: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/display_id.1979/itemNo.91031357/qx/Product.htm There is one other situation I can across when installing this valve, and that was getting a good seal between the copper banjo washers and the adapter. I was getting a weeping seal on one end and when I took it apart and checked the mating surfaces, I found a small ding in the end of the valve that wasn't letting the washer seal. But I just lapped the end down below the ding with some fine sand paper on a flat surface, and it sealed up just fine. I've attached top and bottom pictures of this valve installed. And if any of you want to install this valve, just drop me a line and I'll help if you have any questions. It is really comforting being able to press down on the brake pedal and have the bike slow down without hearing a screeching rear wheel. Rick

Sam, Allen Hall at DiamondR Accessories make replacements that he guarantees and are better than the stock Yamaha ones: http://www.diamondraccessories.com/yamaha/proddisplay.php?name=Fork%20Deflector%20Brackets But the trick to keep any of these brackets fron breaking is to make sure the deflectors are pushed back to where the rubber bumpers on the back are pressing against the chrome fork cover. If they come out further, they will vibrate enough to cause the bracket to crack and break. Rick

Yeah Bill, That's kinda my thought that they would take that 1800 V-Max driveline and drop it into their Kind Touring bike and add fuel injection and maybe catalitic convertors. But like you said, this 1800 is a redesigned 1300 because the 1300 engine can only be bored to 1500 safely. Something to dream about, Rick

Guys, I frankly have no evidence of this, but I've been told by John Madden over in Germany that the Leveling Links help the leaking shock problem. John was one of the first to try the new links from my "Build Your Own" instructions and had some machined over there. The only think I can think of that would help this situation is that by raising the bike up to level it out, it takes some of the pressure off of the back side of the shock ram that is more subceptable to abnormal wear from the inner bushing. In other words, with the stock linkage, the shock sits tilted back ever so slightly which may cause more wear on the back side of the ram over time and use. And by leveling up the bike with the new links it may put the shock in a position that there is no undue pressure on either side of the shock, thus giving it a neutral resistance as it moves up and down. Since I helped Works Performance develope their shock for the RSV, I have been running that shock since July of 2003, so I have no recent experience with the stock shock in this regards. I am just wondering if anyone who has changed to the new links has suffered a blown shock? Rick

Guys, I support Bill's idea of using a heavy fork oil mixed with Delco to swell the seal and think it will work. Rick

Folks, I’m finished with this project and I am happy to report that installing a proportioning valve in-line to the output side of the master cylinder, has exceeded my expectations. Attached is my analysis of this project. Rick

Well Guys, I guess it's time to re-post my pictures where I cut my 2001 shock open to see what made it tick and why did it leak. Buddy, I changed out two of them on my 2001 but none on my 2002. But now I run a Works shock so I don't have to worry about leaking shocks ever again. The reason these shocks leak is that the ram gets vertical scratches probably from a dry bushing that resides above the seal. But like we all know when we get scratches in our forks, the seals start leaking (more like weeping). I think if the ram stayed lubed like it was designed, it would be tougher to be scratched and thus start leaking (again more like weeping). So here are my pictures and if you haven't read it yet, I also re-posted my lengthy version of this subject (Understanding your RSV Rear shock) in the 2nd Gen Teck Library under Suspensions. Rick

Bill, The answer to your question is Yes and it needs some oil on the ram to lube the seal. Why don't you lay your scoot over and see if you can let some oil in the ram seep over the top and down the ram. It's my opinion that your groaning shock will quiet down. Let us knw, Rick

Jim, I have always suspected this and I just had this suspision verified the other day by a very knowledgable Yamaha dealership. And if you have a cylinder popping while idling, your air mixture is too lean. When I first felt this was the problem, it just didn't make sense because I felt it should be just the opposite. The dealer that verified this as the problem said that Yamaha has these bikes set so lean at the factory, and richening them up a bit will only help. So unless your Yamaha dealership has a EGA (Exhaust Gas Analizer) machine, I'd start backing out the air mixture screws 1/8 to 1/4 turn until the popping goes away. The Yamaha EGA machine is the best way because they can attach probs into each exhaust to tune each carb perfectly. Some dealers have gone to a Dyno where they can only sniff one muffler which deals with 2 cylinders. These screws are a pain to get to and have a brass nipple over the screw that you will have to pry or pull off. So now you have something to try, so let us know if this helps, Rick

Randy, Yeah solid mounts will stop the motor from flexing in the frame where I would guess you old motor mounts are pretty worn out. However, removing that cross bar will allow your frame to flex more. This is one of the 1st fixes that the V-Max owners make to their bike (that don't have this bar) to keep their frames from flexing. So in all reality, this bar is more than just a hanger for plastic, it provides extra strength for the frame by creating a triangle between the top and lower parts of the frame which is a parrallelogram. If it were me and I wanted to show the engine off by taking the panels off, I'd keep the bars, but paint them the color of the engine? Rick

Understanding your RSV Rear Shock Many of you have seen my old RSV shock that I had cut open to expose what the inside of the shock looks like. Well I have gone to the next step. I just had my Works shock rebuilt and this is when I realized these shocks don’t last forever and rebuildable shocks need to have the oil changed out every 35,000 miles or so because the oil wears out and get contaminated with the nitrogen. Once I understood this, I felt that the oil in the RSV should probably be changed out as well. So when I went to pick it up I took this cut-up and exposed shock to let my professional shock rebuilder look at this shock and give me his evaluation of what makes this shock work and what is the purpose each section of the shock. And I was a bit surprised but after he looked at it and we talked it over, everything made perfect sense. So here it goes….where you can refer to the diagram in the attached file: You can see that I have identified four basic parts of the shock: Outer Body Inner Sealed Shock Valving The Outer Shock Seal Polished RamItem 1. is the upper black part of the shock just above the rubber boot. This is nothing more than an air chamber, where in conjunction with (4.) the polished ram and (3.) the seal, allows air to be pumped in via the hose and Schrader valve to control shock preload and bike ride height. Item 2. Is where the real shock valving resides and is completely press sealed like what you would see on one of your Monroe shocks. I assume this contains oil and maybe a nitrogen charge, but the latter is only a wild guess. Item 3. is the outer body seal that keeps air in the upper chamber. There is a metal bushing just above it to keep the upper body in alignment with Item 4. the polished ram. Item 4. Is the polished ram that resides under the rubber boot. Even though this piece is polished, it is not hardened and is susceptible to scratches, mostly from a dry bushing. Another purpose of this piece is to act as a reservoir for 7.5 oz of oil that stays inside the shock to lubricate the outer shock seal and ram. The reason I know the amount of oil, is that I took out the Schrader valve, hung the shock upside down and let it drain for 5 days until it stopped. With the shock upright, the oil will stay in this cup pretty much undisturbed, with the exception there is a 1/8” hole about ¾” down from the top of the ram. I can only assume that as the bike moves from side to side some oil will come out this hole, run down the ram and help lube the bushing and seal. Now this also means that if the bike is laid on its side, most of the oil will run out and down the outside of the ram. I can only suspect when this happens, a shock will start leaking (seeping) oil out the bottom if there are scratches in the ram. But if the ram is not scratched and the seal is holding this will not present a problem with the shock action. This will only help lube the bushing and seal. In fact in those cases where the shock is making that squeaking or groaning noise, it is doing this because the seal is dry and really needs to be lubricated. At this point, I would suggest that you could lay the bike down on it’s side and let some of the oil run down the side and I’ll bet your groaning shock will quiet down. Also, I would have no problem taking the schrader valve out and squirting in a couple ounces of 20 weight fork oil down the hose to help lube the ram. You will also note that this shock has a full-length spring but with a spring rate of only 839 lbs/in and the shock travel is 1.77 inches. Now my conclusion on this shock is that you could cut the upper body and the polished ram completely off and you would still have a fully functional shock……but without any preload or ride height adjustability. And it’s not a bad design for what it does for the average rider. But if we are taxing the load limit of the shock beyond 839 lbs. or the maximum load limit of the bike of 419 lbs., we should be looking for a heavier shock. The spring rate on my Works shock is 1,200 lbs. Finally, if the shock is leaking oil, the ram is scratched and maybe the seal torn so it won’t hold air much longer anyway so it should be replaced under warranty. If it’s groaning it just needs some internal lubrication, where I have given you a couple of options to satisfy this. There you have it, Rick Shock Diagram.PDF

Mark, I have had swivel hitches both on my camping trailer and my Bushtec and I wouldn't ride without one. Yeah a standard ball will cover a good angle but these RSVs like to go completely horizontal when they go over and I have seen some good hitches bent all to H_LL because of this. If you have a swivel hitch, the trailer will stay on the ground. And just the opposite, if for some reason your trailer goes over, it will not take the bike with it. And for the money and the trouble to build one yourself, get one from Neosho. They have been making bike trailers and swivel couplers for as long as I've been riding a Venture, and their coupler is 1st notch. Rick