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Rick Butler

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Everything posted by Rick Butler

  1. Hey Guys, I think some you might be interested in see what a RSV will do on the track. But for some past history, a friend of mine got me interested in this a couple of years ago as a means to improve my riding skills. However I didn't start out on the Venture. I decided to buy a smaller bike (Ninja 650R) for 2 reasons (1) a starter bike for my 21 year old neice and (2) a track bike for me until I got her through the MSF training, her license and some coaching from me. However number 2 didn't come about, so I kept it for a bike to take to a track school for 4 sessions. And I'll tell you right now this is the most fun I have ever had on 2 wheels and I've never learned more than I did at the track than I have in any other of my other training and personal experiences. But after 4 times on the 650, I felt it was time to see if all I had learned would translate to takeing my bigger bike on the track. So I took her up to the track, preped her and then took her out. At first everyone was giving me that look like how is that big bagger going to do in the corners and how long will it be before he goes off the track. Well by the end of the day I had made a believer of all of them that this big bike could handle the corners and that I did not hold up anyone by parking it in the corners. Now I couldn't get the lean angle that I could on my 650 because of the ground clearance, but I was able to take it as far as the bike would let me and I didn't grind anything but the plates on the floor boards. Now I will admit that the suspension on my 02 Midnight is anything but stock, with Race Tech cartridge emulators, heavier fork springs, a Works shock, my Leveling Links, and a 130/90 front tire, not to mention 4 piston calipers on the front brakes (to slow me down). So I'm not sure I would have done this with a box stock Venture and had as much fun. So attached are a few pictures of the day, Rick
  2. Eddie, Here are a couple of options from a ride I took from Eureka Springs up around the top of Branson and then south across Peels Ferry. If you have been to Branson before, you know to stay off of highway 76 anywhere through town. So stay on the feeder roads north and south of 76 and you won't get stuck in the 76 parking lot. However 76 west out of Branson is some of the best riding there is in this part of Missouri. Then you could loop down to Roaring River State Park and see the trout farm coming out of a spring in the side of a cliff. From there just head east and work your way back up around Table Rock Lake into Branson. Then another good ride is 65 up to 160 and pick up 76 again east to 125. 125 will take you down to Peels Ferry where you can work your way back west to 65 into the south side of Branson. Hope this helps, Rick
  3. That's pretty cool,Stout, Could you give us more information on this smart card sytem? But my plan is to wire up a relay to create this by-pass....with one addition. I think if you wired in a switch in the relay trigger circuit, you could create a security cut-off to where the bike could not be started even with the key, when the switch was off. Rick
  4. Yeah, It will work just fine and you WILL NOT have to worry about fiber plates slipping until they are completely worn out. Now it will help if you milked cows as a young teen because you will need a hefty grip to pull the clutch in. But it's not really that bad as I did it for many years on my 93 before I discovered the heavier PWC clutch pressure plate. Rick
  5. Yeah Monty, I've never heard about this issue on a 1st gen but I've seen it on several RSVs and mine needs it also. But our ignitions have 4 wires coming out where yours only has 2 for the main starter circuit. In fact Yamaha has just issued a recall for the 06 and 07 FJRs where theirs are cutting off while moving, which wouldn't be a good feeling. Rick
  6. Steve, I have just one question.....why would you want lowered any more? You didn't say if you had also lowered the rear, but in most cases of being able to get your feet on the ground (inseamed challenged) you lower both the front and rear to keep the attitude of the bike pretty much level to effect the handling of the bike in general. Many of us have raised the rear with the Leveling Links to effect this while others have chosen to lower the front to accomplish the same thing. However in just lowering the front, you really quicken up the steering which makes for a better handling bike for slow speed manuevers and riding the curves. But if you lower it too much, you run the chance of setting up a bad head shake on decelleration while at higher speeds. Sport bikes have this geometry but they handle it with a hydralic stableizer. Hope this helps, Rick
  7. Rod, The main reason to put air in any shock is to set the ride height (aka preload). In other words, you would add air when you have a passenger so that your bike does not sag lower than when it's just you on the bike. However, air in a confined space does act like a progressive spring and helps the overall ride some. Now on the amount of air, it's really a personal preference but some folks put 50lbs in with a passenger and 20 when riding solo. So in short, whenever you need it to keep the bike from saging too much, Rick
  8. Mike, From what you said about the condition of the hypoid fluid with metal flakes in it, I would be suspect that it had ever been serviced (or not enough). This gear on the end of the shaft just slips into a coupler attached to one end of the pinion gear and is lubricated by the hypoid fluid in the final drive. That's why there is a seal to hold it in the coupler. Now with all of this being said, I would suggest that this final drive is probably in it's final stages and is probably really making alot of strange noises. If it were me, I'd be looking for a new final drive with drive shaft. There should be someone out here that has triked their bike or has gone to a V-Max final drive that you could get one from. This is why I have suggested that every new bike, change the fluid after a couple of 500 mile rides, just to get all of the rough edges off the pinion and ring gears and the fluid clean afterwards. In fact I have gone to a severe gear 75/140 synthetic fluid. Hope this helps, Rick
  9. I'm sorry Duke, But I have yet for anyone to let me have their Corbin, so I would really be on unfamiliar ground. In other words, I'm not afraid of tearing into one but I don't feel this would be the time to do it. When I get an unfamiliar seat that I haven't done yet, I like to study it some before I start cutting on anything. And as many familiar seat as I have lined up, I just don't think I would have the available time to do the job justice. But if you would like to send me your seat, I'd be glad to take a look at it. Make sense, Rick
  10. Ok Guys, I've heard from 12 of you so far, where a couple may be tenetive. I've slotted those who have said which day they would be there. So, if each of you could take a look at the attachment and drop me an e-mail to Rick_Butler@verizon.net (there is an underscore between Rick and Butler) to 1. Let me know for sure which day you want me to rework your seat (s) 2. Which RSV seat you have, a pillow top or standard 3. Any other information you would like to provide This will allow me to do some better planning before I get there. Thanks, Rick
  11. Well Brenda, Probably, but I'm not sure that I know what a 650 custom seat looks like. Now I've done several 1100 V-Stars that came out good. Do you have a picture or a link? It's really crazy now when I look at other bikes and my gaze goes right to the seat. And I can tell at first sight what seats are butt burners and the 650 and 1100 V-Stars are both in this class. Let me know what it looks like, Rick
  12. Darryl , This was even a problem with 1st gen Ventures, where your lean angle was reduced on the left as opposed to the right. And since the 2nd gen has a inherent slight drop in the rear, it will suffer more. But, raising the rear will help and the most readily way to do this is pumping the rear shock up to a max of say 50lbs. However if you have a passenger, it will take up some of this spring sag at put you back at that same level. If you also install DiamondRs "Leveling Links" it will give you an extra 1" which will help in more ways than this, especially in the curves and slow speed manuevers. Hope this helps, Rick
  13. Hey Guys, Will a Utopia backrest for a RSV not work on a RSTD? I just assumed that since they both have the same frame design and basic seat fitment, that they mounted the same. However in looking at their installation information, it appears that the backrest attaches to the bottom of the passenger seat. I think I may have advised someone wrongly, so I need some info fast. Thanks, Rick
  14. Well Rats Kent, I was just about ready to hit the submit button on the schedule for Saturday morning, when Linda walked in and reminded me that we are taking a group ride to Eureka Springs that weekend. So I guess I won't be there, Rick
  15. Thanks Guys, It was my pleasure to help you out and you all have been keeping me pretty busy this winter. In fact I was only recently able to finally get caught up, where at one time I had 8 boxes stacked up in my garage waiting to be next. And I'm still working on 3 currently, but they go pretty quick once I get started. In fact the word has started getting out on me locally after I did a couple of BMW R1200 GSA seats for friends. But Darryl, Take a look at my classified ad, where it should have everything you need to see what I do and to send me your seat: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/1023/cat/7 Just let me know if I can help, Rick
  16. Hey Guys, Don has been trying to get me up to Oberlin for his Work Day for several years now and it seems like I always have a conflict. However this year I've decided that I'm coming, come hell or high water. But after watching Kent's thread on getting this event more organized, my question to all of you is: would you like me to bring the "Butt Butler" with me, since he won't be doing anything during this time. Now he wouldn't be able to work for free because this wouldn't be fair to all the other guys whose seat (s) he has worked on in the past. But if you thought you would like him to rework your seat this weekend, it would save you around $50 or so in shipping. But on the other hand, I would not want to be guilty of turning this social gathering of friends into a commercial affair. I have already talked this over with Don and he said it would be ok with him if you all would be alright with it. And "No" is certainly a valid answer because if you feel I should leave him at home, I'll just bring the "Bike Butler" and help turn wrenches. But if I did bring him, he would only be able to get enough foam up there for maybe 10 seats, which would also be about the right number of seats to rework in 2-3 days. And it would probably work best to have everyone that was interested, to go ahead and get a schedule with him started? So whatchathink? Rick
  17. Well guys, The main issue is that this is not a bolt. It's a large slug about the size of a dime and maybe 6mm thick, molded into the seat pan with a 6mm X 1.0 pitch stud machined on one end. And what has happened here is that the stud broke off. There is no way I would tear this molded slug out of the seat and JB weld something into the seat pan. Just drill and tap it for another stud? But, maybe JB weld the stud into the threaded hole rather than using locktite? Hope this helps, Rick
  18. Tim, One solution is to grind the surface of the stud off flush and then drill and tap it for a 6mm X 1.0 pitch bolt. Then get a 20mm M6 bolt, cut the head off and clean the cut threads up. Now use some heavy red locktite and thread the end you cut into the stud and let it set up. The best solution is to take the seat cover off to where you can screw that same 20mm M6 bolt down from the top side with the same locktite. Hope this helps, Rick
  19. Dick, I'm pretty confident that the 86 tubes will fit just fine in your 83 triple trees, etc. If you are looking at part numbers, the big difference you will see is mostly from the model change from the XVZ1200 to the XVZ1300, which is in the first 2 letters. You should se that the next set of numbers are the same. So I would proceed and check that they will work together. Hope this helps, Rick
  20. Guys, Just about any time that you feel a klunk when your forks react from a bump, etc, the springs have lost most of their sag. I just replaced a set from an 83 that when measured with the rider on the bike, there was 70 mm of sag. This means that of the 5.5" of travel, 2.7" was taken up by the weight of the bike and rider, leaving 2.8" to soak up bumps (not much). The experts say that you should only have 25-30mm of sag fully laden. New springs are the best thing you can do for the handling of a set of forks. In fact most touring bikes today come new from the factory with too light of springs. Now what you are refering to with the washers and cup at the bottom of the dampening rod on 1st gen Ventures is there to deal with the anti-dive mechanism. It's my opinion that with the correct spring rate, there is no reason for an antidive mechanism on a bike. You surely don't see antidive units on any of the super sport bikes. Hope this helps, Rick
  21. Ok Guys, I thought it was more than coincedence after I got 3 e-mails for seat nuts in about a 10 minute time. So I decided to come here to see what was going on....and now I know Rick
  22. Hey guys, Does anyone know where there is a 1300 rear shock for a Venture Royale? I'm helping a friend out with a 83 standard and I had forgotten how bad these rear shocks are. It's my suggestion that he replace it with a coilover off a Royale. Any ideas, Rick
  23. Thanks John, When I rebuilt my 02 back in 06, I really wanted to try this. But at that time I wasn't sure what or how many guages would fit. In fact when I replaced the inner fairing I cut the cassette hole out to have as a test bed. My idea was to get a small tach in the middle with maybe water temp and oil pressure on each side. But I got busy doing other things (and riding) and put that project on the back burner. But now that you have shown that it's possible, I guess it's time to put it back on the front burner, right? Well.... right after things slow down with the Butt Butler for a while. You guys are really keeping me busy, but that's not problem. Thanks again, Rick
  24. Thanks John, When I rebuilt my 02 back in 06, I really wanted to try this. But at that time I wasn't sure what or how many guages would fit. In fact when I replaced the inner fairing I cut the cassette hole out to have as a test bed. My idea was to get a small tach in the middle with maybe water temp and oil pressure on each side. But I got busy doing other things (and riding) and put that project on the back burner. But now that you have shown that it's possible, I guess it's time to put it back on the front burner, right? Well.... right after things slow down with the Butt Butler for a while. You guys are really keeping me busy, but that's not problem. Thanks again, Rick
  25. Well, They don't neccessarily need to be completely separated. If you already have new seals, all you need to do is take the bolt out of the bottom that holds the dampening rod. Then you can turn the fork upside down and the damening rod will slide out. But if the seals have not been changed in a while, I would go ahead and seperate them. Special tools? You have read all of the post about replacing seals...something to hold the inner dampening rod while taking the allen bolt out. Then a seal driver. But on drilling the extra holes in the dampening rod, a drill press with a small vise to hold the rod while you drill it would be nice. But I think you could use a hand drill if that's all you had available. Rick
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