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Rick Butler

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  1. Rick Butler
    Tommy, I've been using a full cover from E-Z Touring for the past 20 years or so and I'm only on my second. They have been making covers since the late 80s. http://www.eztouring.com/wanderer.htm The nice thing I like about these covers is that they have a shock cord at the bottom edge of the cover rather than elastic that will give up over time. Secondly they pack small, especially the half cover. And for protection, an insurance agent told me back in 83 that the best thing you can do to insure that no one will not mess with your bike is to put a full cover on it at night. If they don't know what it is, they probably won't mess with it. And it's worked for me. Hope this helps, Rick
  2. Rick Butler
    Hey guys, It seems like the seats I have reworked recently, the individuals have sent me an e-mail asking if I still did this. Some of these have heard about me from friends or other sources. But many are members of this forum, where I'm guessing that many of you do not know (or forgotten) that I have an ad in the Classifieds under 2nd Gen Accessories: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/1023/cat/7 Well I say ad? A while back Don was helping me with it when I was having a problem with some of it getting truncated. And his response was "Rick, this isn't an ad....it's a freakin novel". I'll admit I sometimes get carried away, but I feel too much is better that not enough? Anyway I thought I would just remind everyone of this ad. Even though I've done seats all year, I'm starting to get busy as you folks up north start putting your bikes up for the winter. And for now I'm only an exclusive to the Venture Riders, so I'm really your secret....unless you want to send me a friend who needs help. I've never turned away a referral. Thanks, Rick Oh, I've finally got my first Corbin. I't sad that it's off a 1000 VStrom instead of a Venture. But I'll let you know how it goes and what's really under the cover.
  3. Rick Butler
    Thanks Buz, For the nice comments and I'm glad that my mod worked for you. However, as most aftermarket seat makers will tell you, there is not one change in a seat that will work for everyone. Just ask anyone who has bought a Corbin, only to discover this seat is not for them. And even though most folks are satisfied with my rework, there have been a few that I have had to make later changes to for various reasons. And most of them were pillow top passenger seats? The point is...that not one seat solution will work for everyone? Bigfoot, the tail bone relief is not the only issue that I address in my seat mod. The first thing I address on any seat after I get the cover off is the basic shape of the foundation foam. And this is where I feel Mike Corbin has it right, where he creates a nice bucket for your botton to sit in. The problem with the rest of his seat is that it's like sitting on a cast iron Farmall tractor seat. Not really but they are pretty hard, which works for some but not others. So I reshape the bottom to create a shallow bucket and then to remove any pressure point on the tail bone, I cut in a V shaped pocket in the bottom where it meets the back of the seat. Then on most of the RSV and TD seats the back of the seat is rather flat creating a pressure point at the base of the spine. I remove this pressure point by cutting a curvature into the seat back. In wrapping up the reshaping, I also narrow the neck of the seat to remove any pressure points in the inside of the thighs. After I grind the foundation down smooth, I cover (glue) the seat bottom and back with a layer of 1 1/2" memory foam. Now memory foam does not provide any physical support, but it does reduce pressure points and conforms nicely to the shape that is sitting on the seat...ie your buttox. Then it's back on with the cover, where the memory foam also fills in the cover for the foundation foam that has been removed. So when you get the seat back, it looks pretty much like it did when you sent it to me.....until you sit on it. Paul Thede the founder of Race Tech, Inc made a statement that I use mostly for how folks feel about riding motorcycles. "The best you have ever ridden is the best you will ever know". This means that you may be riding around thinking that this is the best you and your bike will ever get......until you make a change that makes a drastic improvement that opens your eyes up to the possibilities of continuous learning. This also applies to how you feel about your motorcycle seat? Sorry for getting long winded, Rick
  4. Rick Butler
    Wayne, With feet that size, you must be about 6' 4" and probably don't suffer from being iseam challenged, right? If you installed a set of DiamondR's leveling links, you would not have to worry much about scraping floorboards. And you might want to think about running a bit more air pressure in your rear shock to get more ride height. Hope this helps, Rick
  5. Rick Butler
    Guys, The slickest Ram mount I have found is a reservoir cover mount that is sold by Motorcycle Larry: http://www.motorcyclelarry.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11&products_id=8 The one for the Honda GL1800 and either of the STs will work on our RS Venture or TD. he machines a nice polished aluminum cover with a ram mount machined in one end. So all you need is a Ram ball. Oh, the pictures show the initials MCL engraved in the cover. He doesn't do that any longer and they are smooth. Hope this helps, Rick
  6. Rick Butler
    Well Guys, The cleanest ram ball mount I have found is made by Motorcycle Larry and is a replacement brake or clutch reservoir cover with an extention that will take a standard Ram ball. When I first saw one, it was on a ST1300 and when I looked at his site, I saw that they only made them for Hondas, BMWs and only the FJR for Yamaha. And when I called they were not interested in the start up cost to make one for our bike, so I was S O O Luck. But then later a friend brought a ST1100 that he had just bought by my place to look over. That's when I noticed the reservoir cover looked alot like ours. So I went and dug out an old one from my spare parts bin....and it was the same. So I ordered 2 single ball mounts for a ST and everything mounted up just fine. With a ball on the reservoir cover, the short and medium Ram arms work out perfect. http://www.motorcyclelarry.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_4&products_id=8 Oh, the ones he makes now does not have the MCL engraved on the cover. Hope this helps, Rick
  7. Rick Butler
    Rick, If you are speaking of the ground for the 2 passing lights, there is a black wire on each of the chrome housings that is connected to a rivit that gets its ground from the frame. Now the turn signals and orange running lamps get their ground from one of the two black wires in the bundle of wires that comes with the lights that connect into the bikes current wiring. Now if you wire them up controlled with a relay, you will have to have a ground wire for the relay, but any frame bolt will work just fine. In fact with any accessory wireing, just go to any frame bolt that is close for your ground. This is just DC circuits, not rocket science. Hope this helps, Rick
  8. Rick Butler
    Rob, If no one wants to trade with you and you want a heel-toe shifter, I'll trade with you. I have a brand new one in my box of extra parts that you can have. Rick
  9. Rick Butler
    Jim, You are more than welcome and I'm glad everything worked out for you and your wife. There is nothing worse than a touring bike seat that burns your butt. Rick
  10. Rick Butler
    Seaking, I have been using the PWC pressure plate with the full fiber plate instead of the half plate behind the wire keeper for over 50k on my 02 Midnight. And it's still holding just fine. However you asked about stacking 2 diaphram pressure plates together. Well if you have a good grip with your left hand, it will work just fine and you will never have to worry about your clutch slipping until the fiber plates are completely worn out. This is a trick that our V-Max friends came up with to keep their clutches from slipping. Remember the 1300 diaphram clutch design came from the 85 V-Max. Not to say it was better than the standard spring pressure plate design of the 1200s, just less apt to uneven spring tension. The Barnett kit basically replaces the 1300 diaphram pressure plate with the more conventional type that was used on the 1200s, but is much prettier and better designed. In short for the money, go with the PWC solution. But if money is not an issue and you like a trick pressure plate, go with the Barnett. Hope this helps, Rick
  11. Rick Butler
    Dean, This one is off a 2nd gen 2000 MM ,not a 1st gen. Rick
  12. Rick Butler
    Byron, Your springs are shot and have lost all of their sag and you are just bottoming out. Progressive Springs are a good option, but I'd opt for a set of constant rate (1.2kg/mm) springs from Racetech or Sonic. Rick
  13. Rick Butler
    You guys crack me up and yes, I'm still looking for a good icon for the Butt Butler And Mike, Glad the seat worked out and it was my pleasure reworking it for you. And you didn't waist any of my time as I always enjoy talking about Ventures, old and new. Rick
  14. Rick Butler
    Ron, These Yamaha V-4s have always been set so lean from the factory that they actually run better at high altitudes with much better mileage than on the flat land. In other words....it is NOT a PROBLEM Hope this satisfies your concern, Rick
  15. Rick Butler

    ABS Glue

    Rick Butler replied to ediddy's topic in Watering Hole

    One other consideration Eddie, The Oakley cement (in the red can) that Tom mentioned for PVC/CPVC and ABS has always worked for me. But there is also a cleaner (solvent) in a yellow can that should be used first before applying the cement. And You can find it just about everywhere in the plumbing section. Hope this helps, Rick
  16. Rick Butler
    Joel, I'm afraid that the rear seat on a TD just does not have alot of real-estate foam to work with. However I have done some initial analysis to see if I could marry the foam and cover off a RS Venture onto the TD plastic pan, but have not yet been able to complete this proof of concept. Even though the TD is pretty close to the Venture, the seats are both smaller and mount up completely different. So maybe this winter I can get a change to do this. However this would require you to purchase a set of RS Venture seats to make it all work right. But I can certainly help make your current TD seat better for a passenger. In fact now that I think of it, I just happen to have a brand new passenger seat up in my attic. So if you would like me to rework her seat, I could send you mine until I finished yours. But if you really need a wider seat for the passenger, then the Mustang or Ultimate seats are a good option. Hope this helps, Rick
  17. Rick Butler
    Hey Guys, Well I'm back home for a while after taking off for a week to attend Don's work day and 10 days to take a group up to Spearfish and the Black Hills and back. In fact Linda says I'm grounded for a while but we are planning on taking off for a few days to ride over to the Hub in Arkansas in August. So if you can give up your seat for just one weekend and get it to me early in the week, then I can have your seat (s) reworked and back to you within a week. My time takes less than a day, where the transit time getting it to me and returned takes up the most time. Just drop me an e-mail to Rick_Butler@verizon.net to let me know if I can help you out, Rick
  18. Rick Butler
    Hey Guys, Does anyone have a reputable company they would suggest to get this GXM Antenna from, for under $200? Thanks, Rick
  19. Rick Butler
    Ok Dennis, You didn't say why you were wanting to take this nut off? If I ever took it off, it would be to take the top triple tree off, which would also necessitate taking the handlebars off. But if it's just to tighten it up, you should know thaty the torque specs for this nut is 94 ft lbs. So this means you really need a 3/4" drive socket and not a wrench. You really wouldn't think that keeping this nut tight to the correct specs is that important.....but it is. If you ever hear or feel your steering head clunking, this nut is usually the culpret. Hope this helps, Rick
  20. Rick Butler
    Hey Folks, Rex and I had a great time at Don's this year. Boy it was a grueling ride to get there and back but I'm glad we came. And I didn't mean to be ani-social with the other activities but I was kept pretty busy out in the back shop for Friday and Saturday reworking seats. And I hope I was able to take care of everyone that had replied to my original post. I had a list started before I got there but lost track in about a day. But I did manage to work in several of you who came up to me while I was working on seats. Sunday morning, I finished Smoke Eater's midnight seats and then went to breakfast with Don, Bob and Smoke Eater before heading back to Texas, where we made it back home around 7:30 last night. So for those who observed the Butt Butler in action, what I do to a seat is no longer a mystery or a secret. And it was a great honor to finally put faces to names as well as previous customers. So I'll probably see some of you again in August at the Hub. But this time I'm coming as Rick Butler and bringing my wife Linda. Thanks for the memories, Rick
  21. Rick Butler
    Piper, The change in the link holes distance produce a 1 to 4 change in the ride height. In other words a 1/4" change in the links produce a 1" change in ride height. When I first started this project, I shortened them 1/2" not knowing and ended up with a Venture with dirt bike handling characteristics. It ran just fine on the road but I could tell that the U-joint was getting close to being in a bind. Then I started shortening this distance and ended up with 1/4" being the right change to level the bike. In other words, I wouldn't advise going any shorter than 1/4". Rick
  22. Rick Butler
    George, If you use this proceedure, the springs have to be out and the forks have to be completely compressed. Otherwise you will end up with a solid front end with no compression because there will not be any air volume left above the dampening rod. Rick
  23. Rick Butler
    Thanks Brian, I appreciate your understanding. I was just about finished with yours but ran out of time. But I'll get it out as soon as I get home the 26th. However I did get Jerry Ryans and one other pillow top dropped off (the name escapes me) at UPS Thursday. Later, Rick
  24. Rick Butler
    Hey Guys, I'm going to out of pocket for a while, starting yesterday. Right now I'm in Denver with my Mom & sister to attend my yougest brother's wedding and won't be back until after Memorial Day the 26th. Then the following week I'm taking off with Goose and Ponch to ride up to Ohio for Don's workday, where the Butt Butler is going to reworking seats. Then I'm back for about 10 days before I take a group up to Spearfish for say 10 days. So this means I really won't be back for any length of time until July 1st. But I'll be checking my e-mail and posts while I'm out so I won't be completely out communications. I've told everyone that has contacted me recently about this, but just wanted everyone else to be informed. So if you think you can get me your seat durung one of the 2 periods I'm back, I'll get it out to you ASAP. However if you can wait, get with me after July 1st. Thanks, Rick
  25. Rick Butler
    Ken, They wouldn't let me listen to the radio and made me unhook my cord and put it up. The same went for anyone carrying an Ipod or MP3 w/earbuds. Now what I didn't mention is this was more than a day at the track, it was a RideSmart track school where you spent 20 minutes on the track and then 40 minutes off the track to debrief and attend the class. Then it's another 20 minutes back on the track practicing what you just learned in class. And in their Level I (or beginner) class any bike is welcome, where I had seen many types of BMWs, Gold Wings and other sport touring bikes like the FJR, ST1300, Vstrom, etc. But how they teach cornering is completely backwards to where you start at the earliest exit line from a corner, locating the clip points (apex) in a corner, corner entry points, throttle control and then brake control. By the end of the day you get to put all of these points all together for what I call really smart cornering. And you get to do this on a highway 20-40 feet wide with no oncoming traffic or yellow lines to worry about as you get to spend all day going over these same corners until you get it right. For those of you live in the DFW area, you might be interested in checking out the RideSmart Track school where they hold events at Cresson south of Benbrook and Eagles Canyon at Slidel, west of Sanger. http://www.ridesmart.info/about.htm Thier owner, Dave Wonders has a mission to reach out to more than just sport bikes to help develop skills that may save their life. If any of you have ever gone off in the ditch after doing something stupid, you will appreciate being able to develop a skill set that will keep you on the pavement and out of the ditch (right after you mumble "Oh ****"). I just happen to be one of those riders who is always working toward continuous developement. It's more fun than you will ever know and will certainly make riding the backroads of Arkansas, etc much more enjoyable and with more confidence. But for me, I'm now going to sell my Ninja 650R and buy just a non street track bike so I can now go out there and play with my friends. Rick
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