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Rick Butler

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  1. Rick Butler
    Rich, If you have not modified the foundation foam too much, I can most likely address your issues. The pillowtop is one of the better seats Yamaha has built but it has a few issues. To address sit bone issues, I have come up with a "Butt Bone Shock Absorber" which is a small oval layer of 1" medium density standard foam that will cover just the area of the sit bones. Then I replace the layer of pillow foam (soft foam) with a layer of 1 1/2" 4 lb memory foam. Between the two foams it will pretty much cover your sit bone pain. If you have not seen my classified ad, it provides pretty much everything that I do to rework a seat: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=1023 Like I have said before, I'm pretty much an exclusive to VentureRider members and have reworked over 200 seats in the last 2 years. My solution doesn't work for everyone, but I do have alot of satisfied customers on this forum. Let me know if I can help, Rick
  2. Rick Butler
    Jim, The main reason to change the fork springs in the RSV is because the oem springs are too light for our bike. When I first installed the Racetech cartridge emulators I also bought the Racetech springs that they offered for the early Royal Star because they didn't offer springs for the RSV. And after I installed everything I was very confused that my front end was bottoming out on sharp bumps. I thought it may have been the spring preload on the emulator, but after talking with Rish Desmond of Sonic Springs I started understanding the importance of spring rates. This was when I realized my issue was spring rate. The rate for our oem springs if .90kg/mm and the ones I got from Racetech were .95kg/mm, not much of an increase. After using a spring rate calculator, I discovered that the rate we need for our heavy RSV is 1.2kg/mm. Once I installed these springs, my front end became more stable and it never bottomed out again. And fork oil doesn't start causing issues because it gets dirty, it breaks down from constantly being forced through small holes. It gets dirty from bushing wear from oil that is broke down that has stopped lubricating. That's why it is important to use a good synthetic fork oil that will last longer and lubricates better. Rick
  3. Rick Butler
    Hey folks, Linda and I got home last Saturday and besides burning out a stator and blowing my Works shock on the 4th day getting to Reno, getting hit by a deer going into the North Rim of the Grand Canyon and getting a flat going into the South Rim, we had a great time for eighteen days and 5,500 miles. This was a group ride with my local riding group (where Don was once one of us) and the main ride was to do a 6 day of a tour of Northern California, set up by one of the local motorcycle touring companies. One of our guys found this company and talked them into selected the routes and providing the accomodations for the 6 days (we didn't need a guide). It first started out as a group flying to Reno and renting bikes, but ended up with 5 of us taking 4 days to ride to Reno and flying the wives into Reno. One of the couples did fly and rent a bike while 2 transported their bikes to Reno and flew in and then rode back with Linda and I on a 5 day trip. So it was a guys (5 bikes) 4 day ride to Reno: Dallas to Roswell, NM, to Pinetop, AZ, to Barstow, CA, to Reno, NV. I chose this route to check out SR-260 across central Arizona from Springerville to Camp Verde. Then it was 6 days (9 bikes) traveling in Northern California: Reno to Red Bluff, CA, to Ft Bragg, to Napa, to Oakhurst (Yosemite), to Sonora, to Reno. The last day, Linda and I beat it back to Reno where I had an appointment at the Yamaha shop to replace my stator and install a used shock (to get us home). When we left Reno Sunday, many of the wives flew back while Linda and another wife rode back to Texas with 5 other single bikes (7 total). I planned a route back to take as many National Parks and interesting roads as possible and make it back home in 5 days: Reno to Cedar City, UT, Bryce Canyon, had to skip Zion because of road construction, Jacob Lake and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, South Rim, Monument Valley, Durango, CO, Taos, NM, Las Vegas, NM, Tucumcari, NM and home. We were most impressed with the North Rim location and would like to go back and stay a few days? Here is the link to my pictures on Photo Bucket, where you probably won't recognize anyone out side of my wife Linda and Rex Adams (Linda was with me at Don's MD and Rex came with me last year): http://s408.photobucket.com/albums/pp162/MTATX6/2010%20Northern%20California%20from%20Rick/ Oh, I rode 6 days without a stator by removing the fuse to the headlight which also got my running lights but kept turn signals and brake lights. Then every evening, I would pull the battery and charge it up in the room. Since I had a trailer, I also bought a Black & Decker Jumper Battery which came in handy to jump start a bike (which came in handy on more than one occasion). Now Linda and I just dealt with the blown shock by riding slower than usual and picking the smoothest parts of the road, where my 1,200lb spring on the Works helped out some. More than likely this will be our last long ride of this magnitude. Since 1980 Linda and I have taken a 2 week bike vacation just about every year where we have ridden in all lower 48 states (some multiple times) 4 Canadian Provinces and we also took a group to Copper Canyon, Mexico in 2001. Next year we plan on hauling the Venture to Yellowstone (which we have been to countless times) stay and ride 3-4 days, load it up and head for Glacier for another 3-4 days of riding and then load up and go home. But we will continue to take extended rides to Arkansas, etc which are within a few hours ride. Gotta love this continent of ours, Rick
  4. Rick Butler
    Hey Guys, I'm home a ready to get back to reworking seats. And yeah Bill, if I understand you correctly, I can fix you up with your Nomad with my Butt Bone Shock Absorber along with my normal fix (no additional charge). Just let me know if I can help, Rick
  5. Rick Butler
    Sorry guys, But I have been running ME880s (and ME88s on my 5 1st gens) for over 9 years now and I have never had an issue with loosing rubber and I also pull a trailer at high speeds. Now I do run 5lbs more than required in the rear, where it's my humble opinion that only heat from an underinflated and over weighted rear tire will cause tire to separate. In fact on my recent 5,500 mile trip to Northern California (and back) I had a flat going into the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, plugged it and rode it another 1,200 miles home. In fact I plan on taking it off and putting a plug/patch in it to make another ride to Arkansas for the year. But, if you have been keeping up with this issue, I don't think there is a touring tire on the market (with the exception of the 2 ply radials) that hasn't had an issue with ply separation.....Avon Venoms included. I was however able to run one Venom rear before my wife discovered it and asked me to remove it. She just didn't like the way it felt with her sitting over the top of it. But fortunately it was ready to be replaced anyway, where it certainly didn't get any better mileage than my ME880s. In all my years of riding Ventures, Dunlop has always been the most solid tire on the market.....where if you ever had a doubt about a tire, you could always feel safe putting on a Dunlop. And Yamaha has always built a Venture to run on a Dunlop or Brigestone. They were never the best tire, but a safe tire. Flame suit on, Rick
  6. Rick Butler
    Hey guys, Thanks for the compliments as my goal is to make your seat better for the long haul. In the last 2 years of reworking seats, I've learned alot more about m/c seats than I did when I started. The most recent being my shock absorber to aleviate sit bone issues for these of us with bony butt bones. And Murph made an interesting point with the memory foam I use to top off my seat work......where the name visco elastic means tempurature sensitive. So when it gets colder it firms up but then loosens up after a short period with a warm butt sitting on it. In the summer time, it doesn't provide any physical support but does relieve pressure points and provides a complient surface to sit on. So if you want me to rework your seat, I'm back home for a while.....that is until the hardwoods start showing their colors in Arkansas. But even then I'll only be gone over a weekend. Rick
  7. Rick Butler
    Well Mike, It's nice to know that Rick and Buckeye have done something for us that the big guys couldn't (wouldn't) do during the years of 83 to 93. Rick
  8. Rick Butler
    Well Grisolm, If you like what the integrated system is doing for you on your 88, my suggestion would be go to EBC HH pads and stainless lines. But to put stainless lines in this configuration, you will be required to have Cycle Brakes build you a set of custom lines since I don't think anyone ever offered a set for the 1st gen. The line from the metering valve to the front left caliper is not a common line and also includes the bleeder valve up at the neck. But stainless lines would be much more simple if you delinked the front brakes, where you will need a larger front brake reservoir for another 4 pistons. Unless your current 4 piston calipers are shot, there is no reason to go to R1s because your calipers are just as good. If you did go to R1s and keep them integrated, you will need to replace all 3, as well as go to stainless lines because their banjo bolts are on the side and require straight connections. But like you probably know, the only way you are going to get maximum braking from your front calipers is to apply both brakes at the same time. Hope this helps in your decision, Rick
  9. Rick Butler
    TJ, If you need a rear shock already cut apart to expose the inner workings, I have one you can use for your project. But I already have performed an analysis of the issues with this oem shock (attached) But I seriously doubt Gabriel could or would build a replacement shock for us, especially to the same design of what Yamaha builds. What we want is an inexpensive Ohlins with adjustable preload and compression and rebound dampening.....which won't happen for our bike? Also attached are pictures of the oem shock as well as the one that Works Perfomance builds for the RSV. Let me know if you would like my shock that is cut apart, which you can borrow for the cost of shipping. Rick
  10. Rick Butler
    Jeff, If you need to move back in the seat and get more height, you probably need to consider an aftermarket seat. Because you cannot modify your stock seat without alot of trouble, the first being you would need a new custom cover. I would probably start looking at a Russell Day Long or a Rick (and maybe Bill) Mayer both of which will get you up more. And by going up, this will allow you to move back (because of the limitation of the fender). Hope this helps, Rick
  11. Rick Butler
    Yeah, You guessed it.....Linda and I are leaving for a long ride. We are taking a group on a trip to Northern California for 3 weeks and won't be back home until Sept 18th. So the set of seats that Dave Van Curler is sending me, will be the last ones that I'll have time to rework before I leave out Sept 1st. So if any of you want me to rework a seat (s), you will have to wait until after Sept 18th. This is usually the slow time of the year for my seat work, but you would have thought that I was having a sale on RSTD seats, where I've reworked 4 sets in the last week or so, not to mention a few pillow tops and a Vulkin? So I'll let you know when I'm back, Rick
  12. Rick Butler
    Rich, You didn't mention if you had removed the small vacumn lines from the intakes to the AIS and plugged the intake (or slip a small ball bearing into the line and put it back on the intake). But I would suggest that your carbs are running leaner than necessary, so you might unscrew the air mixture screws about 1/4th of a turn each to richen up the low end circuit which should help some. If this doesn't work, you might think about shimming out your slide needles a bit. Or just deal with the popping? Rick
  13. Rick Butler
    Ron, I would first be suspect of your fuel filter, especially if it has never been changed. Goose has a good suggestion, so you could check the vent line. Then I would check the fuel pump. Hope this helps, Rick
  14. Rick Butler
    Dave, With all of my experience with 1st gen front ends, my first feeling is that your head bearings are NOT ok. After your last statement about it being more of a wander than a wobble, it tells me that your head bearings are too tight where it will wander rather than run straigt. If they are too loose, you will get a bad head shake on deceleration when your hands are loose on the grips. But if your front springs have never been replaced, most of the front end sag is gone which will leave you with less rake and trail which will also cause wobbles on deceleration. You mention that you suspect air pressure in the forks or rear shock. Well if you have too much air in the forks it will feel light in the front. The test for loose head bearings is to center stand it and have a friend pull down on the rear to take the front wheel off the ground. Then center the front wheel and nudge the handle bars off center. If the front end falls to the stops freely, the head bearings are too loose. If it moves slowly and stops after being nudged it is probably too tight. You want it to move and slowly come to a stop about half way to the stop. I would start with removing all air from the forks and rear shock and then see where that goes. You didn't mention mileage and if the front springs have been replaced. I would start with getting the front forks back to oem specs and then start making other changes. But first check the head bearing torque. Hope this helps, Rick
  15. Rick Butler
    You guys, You are going through the same anxiety pains that many of us went through this time of the year in 1993. And after it was evident at the dealers show that there would not be a 1994 Venture, the existing bikes still sitting on dealers showroom floors and in the warehouses, were all bought up. At that time my 91 was still fairly low mileage so I waited for a couple of years before I found a used 93 with 5k on it before I switched bikes. But I was fortunate that I had the 2 bikes in my possession for a short while where I switched plastic and ended up with two 1-of-a-kind Ventures....a black 93 and a blue 91. And with 120k on my 02 Midnight, I'll do the same thing again if Yamaha makes that same dumb short-sighted decision. There is no way in _ _ LL that buy a Goldwing, BMW or any air cooled V twin, regardless of how good they are. Yeah, I'm pretty much a Venture bigot when it comes to what I (and Linda) like to ride. I just find it hard to beat a water-cooled V-4 with a drive shaft.....regardless that it still has carbs and comes with a cassette player Rick
  16. Rick Butler
    Yeah Carl, They are all the same shape with the same mounting. The only difference is the nose trim and the lower extension, but they mount the same as well. I can't remember if the 85 had the 86 style of trim, but I know you can move it just fine. Rick
  17. Rick Butler
    Well guys, First you have to understand why we even have air adjustment on our suspension system, which is used to set the bike's preload or ride height. Sport bikes have a preload adjustment front & rear that compresses the spring to provide more resistence, which raises the bike to get the correct sag measurment of 30mm for most street bikes. But the Class System allows us to raise or lower our suspension at the push of the button, something that most of we 2nd Gen riders are envious of. And Yamaha provides pressure readings for the Class system that are dependent on the load being exerted on the bike. So if you set the rear suspension at say 40lbs with the bike on the centerstand (unloaded), if you check it again off the centerstand with the rider and passenger on the bike, you will see a much higher pressure reading, say maybe 60 lbs. So on the other hand if you were able to adjust the pressure while riding and set it on say 50lbs, you effectively will end up adjusting it by say 25lbs unloaded or a lesser ride height than you want. So if you know the adjusted difference that you need based upon the bike's load, then you can adjust the suspension while on the bike and moving. The only time it ever worked for me when I was on the bike is when I wanted to drain all of the air out of the front forks....when I got to the point of riding in the curves. And additional air in a suspension does pretty much nothing to the ride or the compression or rebound dampening. That is with one exception.....that air acts like a progressive wound spring where the more you compress a fixed volume of air the more it resists? Hope this helps, Rick
  18. Rick Butler
    You know guys (aka Darksiders), If you ride with a Kumho on the rear, why wouldn't you want to run a matching Kumho on the front? Or do they not make a 150/90-16? Just curious, Rick
  19. Rick Butler
    Hey Guys, I only have a couple of things to say on this issue, and I think TX2Sturgis has a valid point to make on how to determine which tire will handle better.....take them to the track. I've already taken my bike to the track (see attached pictures) and I would hate to think what car tire would do with these lean angles and contact patches. I've also attached a picture of my Honda F4 track bike and you can see that both bikes have about the same contact patch. And secondly, my favorite M/C quote: "The best you have ever ridden is the best you will ever know". Carry on, Rick
  20. Rick Butler
    If the fluid is coming from the tubes coming out the bottom of the bike next to the rear shock, it's oil from the crankcase breather. If your oil level is at the top mark of the sight glass, the engine at higher rpms will blow oil up into the air box and then will drain into these tubes located at the rear of the air box. Just don't fill it to the top mark of the oil sight glass and you won't have this problem. Hope this helps, Rick
  21. Rick Butler
    No Donnie, It doesn't have to come off, but it really makes it easier if you come in from the rear fender where all the bolts are there right in front of you. I've done it both ways and this way is the cleanest. Hope this helps, Rick
  22. Rick Butler
    Yeah Seaking, The condition your master cylinder appears to be, if it were me I'd go ahead and rebuild it it with a Master Cylinder Clutch Kit 3GM-W0099-00-00. Hope this helps, Rick
  23. Rick Butler
    Jeff, If Yamaha made this change I feel that their designers would be admitting to a change that they did not feel was needed? I think they designed this bike to have that layed back cruiser stance that went along with that fat 150 front tire. And I don't think that they even considered handling characteristics when they initially designed the Venture. In fact I have told Yamaha (more than once) of this need along with the need to change out the 4 piston rear caliper, but I know it fell on deaf ears. Look at the Yamaha picture below and it's readily apparent that the bike is normally sitting low in the rear which gives the bike more rake and trail which makes for a lazy handling bike. http://www.starmotorcycles.com/assets/content/images/600/09ST_RSVen_CRd_Rav_A1_029_6f9a905e.jpg When I was trying to talk Allen Hall into producing these links he had the same issue that most of you describe with raising the bike up about 1" at the rear axle because he felt that the natural name for this item would be a "Lift Kit". That's when I suggested "Leveling Links" as an alternative. So if you want a better handling bike, make the change. And if you are really inseamed challenged, lower the front in the triple tree as many folks have done. This does the same basic thing that changing the links does, which is setting the attitude of the bike to level. Hope this helps, Rick
  24. Rick Butler
    Peter, If you take the windshield off it might work ok, if your suit is perfed leather. But remember these suits are really designed to sit on a sport bike. You know how it feels in your crotch when standing and then it loosens up when you sit in the crouched position. Then the leather and armor in the arms is designed to bend to fit the clip ons. If I were you and wanted to answer your question, go ahead and try it. But yours may be an older style which might be looser? Mine stays on the hanger until I go to the track on my 99 F4 (which will be tomorrow). Rick
  25. Rick Butler
    Yes Jack, They do and the cracks you see are in the area of the aluminum sleeve. Now if the cracks get up higher on the neck of the boot, you might be in danger of a vacumn leak. A squirt of WD40 on the crack will determine there is a leak when the engine increases in RPM. Hope this helps, Rick And yeah, I cut one apart several years ago after I replaced them for the concerns that you have.
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