KiteSquid

The Motorcycle Safety Foundation has some great info. Click HERE to go there.

My locking device comes from Progressive. It is also known as a full coverage insurance policy. I have never had a bike stolen, but it has happened. 4 guys and a van or pickup truck can steal ANY bike.

2357 is Clear 2357LL is the same bulb but in a Krypton confrguation. It puts out white light, but it should last a lot longer. BUY the 2357LL over the 2357, the small price increase is worth the longer service life! 2357A is the Amber (yellow) coated 2357. It puts out less overall light as the amber coating filters out some of the light, so it looks yellow for the turnsignals behind the clear lenses. I would recomend you put in 2357LL bulbs under all your colored lenses.

right off the peg at my local Advance auto parts store. Try searching for 2357 as the 2357LL should come up in the search. OR click HERE to go to Advance auto parts web sit of the 2357LL bulb BTW the Parts America site is also for Checker, Schucks, Kragen and Murray's Auto Parts chains. apparently they are all one big company.... OR click HERE for Auto Zone's web site for the 2357LL bulb Punch in your zip for local availability. Punch in 2357A into their respective sites for the Amber bulb.....etc. here is a photo of the 2357A from the Parts Americal web site... (NOT to scale!!!!!!) http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/syl/4613538055_bulb.jpg IF anyone else tries out these bulbs, PLEASE provide some feedback here.... good or bad!!!!!!

Have you been to your local Radio Shack store??? Look on the pegs, and also ask to look in the printed catalog. Look for black plastic as it normaly is better in outdoor use.

Rant mode ON: I HATE the way Clarion made this work!!!! I sure wish that Yamaha Motor Company used a radio from Yamaha Electronics Company instead of this POS that came from the lowest bidder!!!!!!!! Rant mode OFF:

For more light and about the same money as an 1156 bulb, use a 2357LL bulb in the same socket. You will have to file off one of the indexing pins to get it to fit. Look at the bulb you take out to figure out which one to remove. For more info click HERE and read that thread. To see the increased light output, replace one bulb. Start your bike to get the alternating working, and turn on your emergency flashers. compare the brightness in day light and at night. There should be about a 35% increase in the light output for just a few dollars.

Coat both sides with RejeX

for fun and excitement I ride in my cage on the Capital Beltway. The gutsy people ride motorcycles there...... I have..........once, just once.

Air flow like the Honda Valkyrie Interstate. The hot air from the radiator can be deflected away from the driver. Cold Air duct in the windshield, for those hot days!!!!

Has anybody done a comparison with the relatively new Amsoil EAO filter? I cant find one on the Internet, but I am still on the Information super backwater.....

you might have a ground loop, sense you added components to the system. Try moving the grounds to the same point. search the Internet for "ground loop" for more info.

I purchased a Sansa C250 MP3 player and stuck some industrial strength Velcro on the front brake reservoir. I split the fairing to install a splitter and extra cable for the aux input. I then ran the cable up the handle bars to the MP3 player. the plug on the end has a 90 degree bend. I can easily remove the player for other uses or theft deterrent. I acquired a spare battery for the player and also got some MicroSC cards to expand the players memory. Now I can carry 5 days worth of music!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I too would like to tinker with my own LED boards, but I have way too many irons in the fire right now..... Please keep us posted!!! If you can design a kit for us that would bring the cost of LED lighting down to reasonabal levels, I would get them!!!!!

If you live in the US it is about a 99% chance you are running 10% Ethanol, unless you are running aircraft fuel, but it is quite expensive compared to road fuel, and it contains tetraethyl lead, so it should not be used on the roads. Just because your pump does not say they fuel you are buying is 10% Ethanol, does not mean that you are getting 100% Gasoline. HERE is a quick down and dirty test you can perform to see if there is Ethanol in your fuel. You could also use the technique to remove ethanol from your fuel, but DON'T do it in the bikes fuel tank and you would have to make sure you don't pull any water from the tank.... maybe a fuel water separator like on some Diesel trucks and pleasure boats. We had big ones on the ships I served on. Also if you removed the ethanol from your fuel, you would be throwing away ethanol you paid for.... but you might be able to distill it out of the water, but I would NOT drink it!!!!!!!! HERE is a calibrated tester, but it is IMHO expensive, and only reads in 5% increments.

Do the above, if it does not work, clean evey contact in every connnector and dielectric grease all connections.

I am sorry you had a flat, but IMHO it is better to have a flat on the front of a cage than the front of a bike....

Yes the shocks are covered by the warranty, but if you look at pages 3-17 for the forks and page 3-18 for the rear shock, you will see tables that list soft, standard and hard spring rates. Overall the pressures are: Front: 0-7.1 PSI Rear 0-57 PSI [quote name=" Owners Manual"] CAUTION: Never exceed the maximum air pressure, otherwise the oil seal may become damaged. If you don't have an owners manual, you can download it for FREE along with the service manual from the VR Tech section of the forum.

CHECK the air pressure in the tire BEFORE pulling the nail and after riding!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

some quick ideas: Ridemakerz http://www.buildabear.com//ProductImages/RZ/Large/502031_503022L.jpg Diecast A brochure from the dodge dealer, showing the 2007 or 2008 model year on it... A billboard with the new Challenger on it.

GREAT, thanks for the conversion factor. Clikcing around that page I find 1157 and 1156 output to be Single LED Luminous Intentsdy 5300 Millicandelas (mcd) over a 35 degree pattern. 5300 x 30 is 159000 mcd or 46.238 lumens or 3.678440731901352426412092283214 cp, so even the factory bulb have a higher light output than the 30 LED bulbs, if my math is correct. HOWEVER, like I stated in my first post, I do leave a side by side comparrison is in order. However I still cannot find the Lumen or CP listed for the boards that replace the 1157 tail lamp bulb. Or if the board sellers would list the model number of the LEDs used, we could go to the LED manufactures data sheets to calculate the amount of light output. As an example, but there are other sources for LED boards for the RSV, these I found easily. Please feel free to post other examples to include shipping and light output (if you can find it) SO if I choose the Right angle 1157/1156 replacement bulbs from Super Bright LEDs HERE for the front and rear of my bike, that would be $9.95 x 4 = $39.80 plus four tail light load resisters at $4.95 each for $19.80 plus shipping $5 (estimated by their web site) for a subtotal for $64.60 And then go to Custom Dynamics HERE and purchase their brake/tail light/license plate light board for $59.95 plus $8.25 shipping, for a subtotal of $68.20 with a total of $132.80 invested in lights and the time to install the load resisters so my tun signals will flash at an acceptable rate, that I don't know how bright they actually are, or the pattern of light output, I can convert my RSV to LED auxiliary light. Or I can follow the model in my first post for $10 and have a known light output. It is a difficult decision for me. but my my example of using bulbs vice LEDs is more of a poor mans modification. Just an example, use it if you want.

My dealer not only reversed the antennas, but they folded to the rear of the bike. I guess so I could ride the bike under low overpasses and not damage the anntnnas, or I could use the hot exhaust to roast some hot dogs as i ride.... It took me a few minutes to reverse them and have them fold forward.

No, it a 74 CID motor. It was marketed as the "Sport Solo" bike, but my bike has the "Buddy Seat" installed. It is a lot of fun for short rides...but I do need to sell it.

Second oil change I went to AmsOil Formula 4-Stroke® 10W-30/SAE 30 Synthetic oil (ASE) with an AmsOil EAOM102 Oil Filter. I also went to Synthetic Gear Lube SAE 80W-90 (AGL) in the rear end, and will change the gear oil with every engine oil change. I would have done it the first oil change, but the dealer gave me a free first oil change useing Yamaha branded oil and filter. It is hard for me to pass up free stuff... I am looking forward to the protection the EaOM filters are advertised to give.

Several threads here got me thinking about LEDs and our bikes. After looking a the price of LED boards for the 2nd generation RSV, I was in shock, they are IMHO EXPENSIVE, but probably worth it. Not wanting to spend the dollars on lamps with unadvertised light output and being a reasonably frugal guy, I looked for an alternative. I did some research and found the following lamps are installed in our bikes from the factory. cp = Candle Power. Brake/Tail: 1157 with a Ba15d base: 32/3cp Rear Turn: 7507A with a PY21W base: 22.2cp Front Turn/Running: (Unknown bulb) with an unknown base (Still researching): 24/2.2 cp So a quick look in Sylvania Automotive Lamp Catalog I found the following bulbs with SIMILAR bases 2357LL with a Ba15d base: 40/3cp (the LL stands for Long Life. On close inspection it is actually a Krypton bulb.) 2357A with Ba15d base: 30/2.2cp (the A is for Amber coating on the bulb) So I put a 2357LL in my Brake/Tail lamp housing. It was a 25% improvement in light output on the brake light, from 32cp to 40cp!!!!! No improvement on the running light, 3cp to 3cp. BUT it is a longer life bulb. Rated life is 2,000 hours on the brake light and 10,000 hours on the running light. I then put 2357A bulbs in all of the turn signal housings, but I had to remove one of the indexing pins from them. IIRC the front and rear required different pin removal so CHECK it before you do it!!! I used a pair of small diagonal cutting pliers and cleaned it up with a file. If my math is correct I had a 35% increase in light output on the turn signals and a 36% increase in light output on the front running lights. Total cost: $9.40 (minus 10% as my local auto parts store gives a military discount) plus sales tax. WOOOOO HOOOOOO!!!!! this is for two packages of two 2357A bulbs and one package of two 2357 bulbs, so I have a spare brake/tail lamp. I will try to give it to one of my H-D riding friends. So the upgrade cost me less than $10 which is quite a few dollars less than even one LED board and as an added plus they available at all auto parts stores so I did not have to pay for shipping and wait for the brown truck to arrive. Almost instant gratification. I have not seen where the LED boards list the light output (if you know this, please point it out), so I cannot compare the output levels with my inexpensive bulbs until I park next to someone with the LEDs in their bike. The LEDs have a longer life span. The LEDs also have a sharper on and off curve, which should make you more visible when using your brakes or turn signals. The LEDs require you put in a load resistor so your turn signals flash at the normal rate (there goes the power savings), or you must find an electronic flasher unit, at an additional cost, which I have not yet found but they must be made by somebody. With the money I did not spend on the LED boards, I will put that to my first set of replacement tires.........or buy several tanks of gas. Your comments are requested. UPDATE #1: I found two other bulbs that will work as tail lights, but not in the turn signals without changing the lenses as they are not offered in amber. The first is the 3496. It offers 43 CP on high and 3 CP on low. On high it yields a 31.25% increase over stock 1157 at 32 CP verses a 25% increase for the 2357LL at 40 CP but at a cost... they only have a rated live of 600 hours on the bright filament and 5,000 hours on the low, verses the 2357LL with 2,000 on the bright filament and 10,000 on the low.... also locally they are priced at $3.59 per bulb while the 2357LL are priced at $3.44 for two bulbs.... To me, the increased output of 3 CP over the 2357LL is not worth the shorter service life. The second bulb is the H1157 offered by Candlepower (Which is owned by Daniel Stern) (the H is for Halogen)and probably made by Narva. It has a 107 CP bright filament, and a 25 CP low filament!!!!!! But don't run off an buy them yet!!!!! Compared to the 1157 or 2357LL bulb the bright filament is 234% and 168% brighter respectively, but all that light comes at a cost. Only 400 hours service life and all the heat it produces MIGHT melt your tail light housing. Sorry, but I'm not going to test it on my bike!!!!!! OH and now for the bad news, they are priced at $10.35 plus shipping.... each.... The big draw back IMHO is the MUCH brighter running light. It puts out a whopping 25 CP which could be confused for a brake light by some drivers.... this running light is 733% brighter than all the other lamps!!!!!! Like I said, I will not be trying this lamp, but if you do, please provide some feedback!!!!! UPDATE #2: I have put the 3496 bulbs in the brake and turn signals on the rear and they are working fine!!!!!!!!! To bad the 3496 does not come in amber..... or I would use them in the front of this bike. UPDATE #3 I installed a 15" LED stop light under my trunk. I got it from Innovative Light in the factory seconds section HERE for under $8.... plus shipping. I got the slimline in red with retroreflective accents..... not in stock as of this posting but you can check them from time to time. UPDATE #4 This breaks the Poor mans tip but I replaced the stop/tail light with the Street Magic 100 LED Genesis II LED Tail Light from Custom Dynamics HERE and I am impressed!!!!! quick on and off time, wide viewing angle and it is BRIGHT, but it does break the bank........at $90 when I got it.....