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safetyguy

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Everything posted by safetyguy

  1. safetyguy
    Have you changed your plug wires and caps anytime recently?
  2. safetyguy
    Greg is correct about the legal reason for this switch position in some countries. Besides UK, I am pretty sure that I saw parked bikes with illuminated lights in France a few years ago as well. A lot of old japanese bikes have this "feature" and I can only assume that it was cheaper to have one set of parts/wiring than design these things for the US only.
  3. safetyguy
    A couple of years ago Condor wrote that the difference between the carb diaphragm slides from a 1200 and a 1300 was one had a larger vent hole. It appears to me that that is the case -- and the vent hole on the 1300 is noticeably larger. I am replacing one cracked slide housing (the black plastic part) on a 1200, so the question is can I use a 1300 slide without any problem? I also thought about using JB Weld and re- drilling the hole to the 1200 size. Has anyone done this? Last two questions - is there any place to buy 1200 slides cheap? If not does anyone have one 1200 slide (even one in pieces that I can reglue) that they care to part with?
  4. safetyguy
    Thanks for the info -- let me research what is in a Virago 535 before I try buy some connectors and attent to mount the Shindengen.
  5. safetyguy
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37971 (look at first post) In one of the old Shindengen regulator/rectifier threads, someone mentioned using a XV535 regulator/rectifier on a VR. Since I have an XV535 with a dead R/R, is it possible to use one of the Shindengens that were part of the group buy (from last year) to replace the dead one? The connectors look different to me but maybe I need to be more creative. (And yes, on the Virago 535 I have, the R/R is buried on the backside of the engine and very difficult to get a good look at the rectifier itself.) Another reason that I ask this question -- the XV535 R/R is allegedly the same as the one listed for that vintage VMAX. Could it be the same as the original R/R for the VR?
  6. safetyguy
    I had the exact same symptoms on my 88 VR and just repaired it. Problem is now gone. The cause of my problem was a leak coming from the thermostat housing when it was colder outside-- yours could be caused by the same thing. These gaskets are subject to a lot of temperature extremes and if they haven't been replaced before, they are over twenty years old. Based on advice here on ventureriders.org, I replaced the following parts on my VR-- Refer to the diagram on www.boats.net (see below) 27 11H-12412-00-00 SEAL,THERMOSTAT $1.16 28 26H-12413-00-00 COVER,THERMOSTAT $11.94 29 93210-45511-00 O-RING [93210-43713-00] $2.18 http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1986/XVZ1300DS%20VENTURE%20ROYALE/WATER%20PUMP/parts.html# You can also get all these parts at your local Yamaha stealer but it will cost slightly more. But you will save shipping charges (so in the long run, it could be cheaper to get it locally). I didn't need to replace the thermostat cover but someone suggested that it may not be a bad idea to replace since it is made of plastic and is located behind an exhaust pipe (and may have warped over time). While in there, I also replaced the thermostat with a NAPA 156 thermostat (which is much cheaper than the OEM from Yamaha by about $20). I also bought Skydoc17's radiator drain valve update kit for $5 or so and put it in at the same time. (see classifieds on venturerider.org ) In all seriousness, if the leak is small you may want to wait. It is a frigging pain to get at these gaskets. That is why I replaced everything that I could while I was in there. Plan on about two hours or more (with the emphasis on more) to complete the job. Here are the steps that you are needed (as best as I can remember). Refer to the service manual for more sepcific information-- 1. Remove all the plastic that covers the radiator and lower part of bike 2. Drain coolant per the service manual 3. Remove radiator (mounting bolts, hoses, etc). 4. You will need to remove the front exhaust pipe on the right side. It will slide out of the exhaust collector if you are gentle. NOTE: There is almost no way to get an allen wrench in to remove the bolts holding the thermostat cover without removing this pipe. The wrench hits on the exhaust flange -- but maybe you have a different allen wrench than I do. I tried three different ones with no success. Plan on using something like PB Blaster to get all the rusted bolts/nuts/etc loose on the various exhaust clamps. 5. Remove thermostat cover, thermostat, thermostat gasket, o-ring, etc.) Installation is almost the reverse of diassembly. You can install skydoc's kit at this time as well. Other suggestions of what that can be done at the same time, replace all radiator hoses and hose clamps, replace the two O rings on the joint between the water pump and the thermostat housing (part #22 above). Your call on all of these.
  7. safetyguy
    Based on your symptoms -- I think the diaphragms aren't seated in the groove because they were pulled out when you put the carb side cover on. The spring applies a lot of force when you attach the cover and unless you have three hands, it is hard to keep the diaphragm seated. Try doing reseating the diaphragms again but have a friend hold the slide with a screwdriver from top of the carb (through the air filter box) as you attach the side cover plate. Look at step #8 in this older post [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19269]Carb Diaphram Replacement - VentureRider.Org[/ame] Good luck!
  8. safetyguy
    I think you need to try the carb sync route as a first step.
  9. safetyguy
    Thanks to both of you for some good pointers. This is the kind of useful information that we all can use. I think that I will acquire some additional parts and tackle this job in the next week or so.
  10. safetyguy
    I searched but I couldn't find an answer. Everyone talks about doing this but no one has described an easy way to do it. After taking off all the plastic fairing pieces and radiator grill cover, it looks to me like you have to loosen the radiator to get at the thermostat housing. There has to be an easier way. When my VR sits overnight (and it is getting colder at night), I have a leak from the O-ring on the thermostat housing. While I am in there doing that, I will replace the thermostat (NAPA substitute) and all the other O rings that I could get from a Yamaha dealer. The only two I couldn't get (and they are the same) are for the elbow fitting (# 21 on the Yamaha Water Pump Part drawing) -- is there a commercially available substitute that anyone knows of? Last question on this subject, are all the hoses standard sizes? I'd like to replace all the front ones at the same time I take out the thermostat housing.
  11. safetyguy
    Free advice (for what it is worth) – I had all four of my slides/diaphragms that came out in pieces. I assembled them back and they ran fine. However to be on the safe side, I bought 4 new slide/diaphragm units from oldbikebarn.com. I rather spend about $260 for 4 news slides than be broken down on the side of the road with slides that fell apart on those “rare” occasions when I see what almost 100 horsepower of V4 power can do. (NOTE: I just looked on oldbikebarn website and they no longer have this part listed, so I would give them a call and check). Just a word of warning, despite what oldbikebarn told me (i.e., 1 week to receive), it took 4 weeks to get my parts since they had to get them off the proverbial slow boat from
  12. safetyguy
    I think we have two different posts, in two different forums, going on this subject --- see [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=376040#post376040]Indian regulator/rectifier group buy - Page 3 - VentureRider.Org[/ame] Can a moderator help and move the thread to the this (Gen 1) forum?
  13. safetyguy
    you have been PayPal -ed
  14. safetyguy
    Make sure the main white connector plug's contacts are clean AND tight- I seem to always have a problem with this. This is the plug coming into the back of the unit when you flip the panel to check your coolant level. (Even if the lights in the unit come on in the ACC key position, it doesn't mean anything. The light are powered by the other wires coming out the back. The CLASS unit is powered through the white connector if I remember correctly). After the contacts are clean and the plug is installed, I will use a small screwdriver to make sure that each metal connector is firmly seated from the backside of the connector. Lastly, if it still isn't working right (and all the solder joints are good), try cleaning the connector contacts on the connector cable (that should be a ribbon cable but isn't) that connects the two boards inside. This is a scary operation so proceed with extreme caution not to break small pins and 20+ year old circuit boards. The problems that I have had with the CLASS unit and this solved them for the most part-- E4 code - solved by soldering 3 broken joints Cleaning the connector cable that connects the two boards-solved problem of getting the unit to pump up in ACC key position but dumping all the pressure when the key is moved to either OFF or ON. Hope this helps!
  15. safetyguy
    Have you considered just installing a new system for the intercom and "entertainment system"? Some of the devices for sale have a built in radio and MP3 input. Depending on what you spend, you could even get bluetooth capability. And think what you could do with the space on the left side of the fairing if you get rid of the radio and cassette player...
  16. safetyguy
    They actually do make a significant difference in handling on these old machines. It is so simple to install that even a caveman (or even a Second Generation type) could install it ....
  17. safetyguy
    Thanks guys -- you are all the greatest. Let me order several for all my bikes and replace them all as they come up in the maintenance schedule.
  18. safetyguy
    Is there an easily obtainable replacement for the clutch bleed screw? Mine has been rounded and probably should be replaced the next time I bleed the clutch. I see in BikeBandit that I can get a replacement assembly (with the rubber cover) for $19 and change. Is there a better option?
  19. safetyguy
    I'd be interested in one -- but I am not clear why everyone can't get all the connectors and stuff they need for the same price. Are these going to be available at one price for the complete package and another if someone has to hunt down the other parts?
  20. safetyguy
    DITTO!!!
  21. safetyguy
    I am glad that everyone is OK. Isn't damaging a Venture a capital offense in NY - one of the few things that they still have the death penalty for? I hope the judge throws the book at the driver that sideswiped him for this one !!!
  22. safetyguy
    Another idea -- How much oil is showing in the sight glass? If you have anything more than half way, you will pull oil into the air filter box. Are you seeing oil on your air filter. It could be part of your problem.
  23. safetyguy
    Have you checked for spark for the cylinders on that side? I'm kind of with GeorgeS thinking it may be spark related -- the one that is fouling isn't firing. Last fall, you were thinking about replacing your plug wires -- did you ever? You can check the resistance in the old ones with a VOA meter. Your problem could be something as simple as getting some new wires and caps.
  24. safetyguy
    I just pressed the parts together by hand and they seemed relatively tight and I would call it a snug fit. I read elsewhere in another thread that someone ran across this problem before and they just pushed all the pieces back together (as I did) and it worked fine for them. In fact, I liked the fact that I could push the retainer piece in far enough to be tight on the diaphragm as well. As for crimping the keeper/retainer to the plastic slide, I did not. The big end of the retainer only comes in contact with the white washer that is on top of the diaphragm. It is what holds the whole shebang together (see my picture 2 & 3). The metal retainer piece does not appear to be structural to the slide. It seems that its purpose is to hold the diaphragm lip between the two plastic washers. Again all 4 carbs were in this state upon disassembly-- what are the chances of 4 bad slides? And if all 4 were bad, why has the bike been running for 21 years (including up to the time of disassembly) The true test would be to take a new slide assembly and see if the metal keeper can be pulled out easily. I suspect that it can be and that older slide units are stuck for other reasons. I should have tried to reassemble the slide units with the old diaphragms. Maybe the old ones had shriveled up to the point that the retainer was no longer a tight fit in the plastic slide body but the new diaphragm is. It would have been nice if I had thought of this sooner -- I could have tested my hypothesis before I put this all back together. Here are my results - I only was able to test ride my VR for about 20 miles after installation and carb synching with a Morgan Carbtune. It seemed to run well but I will see how it really does this weekend on a longer ride. I ran it at speeds that some law enforcement types may have issue with and no ill effects were noted even close to redline rpms. Like some previous posters in some other threads have stated, it seemed like there is a little less power on the low end of the power curve but I have more at the high rpm range with the new diaphragms. The difference wasn't much between my old and new diaphragms -- it may be all in my imagination anyway. This may be because the leaks in my old diaphragms were really small compared to what others have described. I was getting about 35-37 MPG before the change - one up and heavy with the throttle hand, running 10% ethanol blends (all that is available by law around here and not my choice). Earl -- thanks for the info on the positioning of the vent hole. Interesting that it makes no difference. I agree with you that you need to make sure that the tab is lined up correctly in the carb body. The cover goes right into place when it is in its proper place.
  25. safetyguy
    Just to add to the knowledge base here on the subject of carb diaphragms -- 1. I was able to get the original screws off the side carb cover. I sprayed each screw with PB Blaster. This was based on information that these screws get frozen at the juncture of the head and carb cover plate (and the threads inside the carb body are fine). I had to use a impact driver on all and I also used a T-25 Torx security bit to get the "special" screw off. All screws came off in one piece and were later reinstalled. 2. After removing each cover, each (and I mean all four of mine) carb slide was in pieces. If you look at the first picture, all the pieces shown were in this disassembled state when the cover came off. The center metal keeper was loose and the old diaphragm was off the slide, Somewhere mentioned that parts on the carb slide "come apart" (I believe it was Condor who said he had experienced this a few times). I know the previous owner of this one owner bike, and it never had carb work done since new. It must be the nature of the beast that these slides parts came apart. 3. For the first two carbs, I followed the recommended procedure to disassemble everything including the carb needle/holder assembly. I found that reinserting the plastic screw that holds the small spring and carb needle to be a slightly tricky task. Since I wasn't replacing the white spacer (as some have for "improved" fuel mileage), I omitted this step for Carb 3 and 4. This omission saves considerable time. (5-10 minutes each) 4. I cleaned all the parts with carb cleaner and installed the parts together. I used the SD-1 diaphragms from Sirus. In photo 2, you can see the white plastic washer on the keeper part. (You don't need a screw driver like in the photo, it just made taking the photo easier). 5. The next part installed was the diaphragm itself, there is no need to stretch it over the slide in this assembly scenario. The gray washer goes on next and the groove side goes against the diaphragm. See photo 3. 6. Slide the reassembled keeper part into the black plastic slide assembly. See photo 4. 7. Lastly, there have been many questions about the orientation slide to the tabbed portion of the diaphragm. If you look into the slide, there appears to be a vent hole or something at the bottom. In my four, one was at 1 o' clock (or pointing at the tab portion in the upper right corner), one was at 4 o'clock, one was at 6 o' clock, and the last was 9 o'clock. As you push the keepers into the slides in step #6 above, you can rotate the diaphragm to get it into the position you want. As far as I can tell, there is no standard position. Does anyone know the answer? So the conclusion is, if your slide/diaphragm unit is "split, this is the way to assemble it. This may end up being the preferred way to install new diaphragms. If the keeper can be removed from your slides -- it allows for a thorough cleaning of pieces and avoids the possibility of ripping the diaphragm when you slip them into place (and use the fingernail method like skydoc17 does). This is probably more critical for people who reuse and recoat old diaphragms where they could easily be damaged by stretching. There is no need to take the carb needle out if you are just replacing the diaphragms. Seriously! The SD-1 diaphragms fit well. We will see if they stand up to the test of time. Incidentially, my old diaphragms showed wear (and fabric) along the outer edges but I couldn't spot any pin hole leaks elsewhere.
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