lonestarmedic

Although the ignitech might be primative bu today's modern vehicles it does a great job for why it is designed. Replacent of old ignition and allowing tuning to a great extent. I agree a combination would be great. But, I think on a touring bike where loads vary a MAP would be best. If I was working for horsepower on a bike I would think TPS. My last diesel I tuned was a tractor with stacked turbos. Only went 300 feet at a time.

And I like my new advance curve. I think I can tweak just a bit more. I want to play in the 3000-5000 area. Right now I am a solid strong pull. In 5th gear the bike is a steady pull from 2000 on up. At 4000 it comes alive. And at 5000-7000 it is fantastic. I am positive the COP conversion has added a bit. So, Gary your Ignitech box is a 100% winner. It is going to save a lot of bikes from the boneyard. And enhance the capabilities of just as many.

And I am not sure that a TPS is the answer. The vacuum is a dynamic measurement. The TPS is linear to the throttle. Heck, I may try a TPS in addition.

Gary- My Ignitech is doing extremely well. It is as always, the quest for better. I may not get any better than the MAP sensor. And I will make a vacuum tank and try it. And I will try the original sensor. I have 2 of them in good shape. If one fails and fries my Ignitech then you get another sale. I understand the risks. And my MAP sensor is anyplace from 0 to 100% at an idle. That bottom left bar dances all over the place. Putting all 4 cylinders to it helped a bit. I see 0-60-30-80-100-10-20-100. Just looks too sensitive.

KISA - I have a V88 installed. Using latest software. The original sensor may be more stable. Less fluctuation with the pulsation of the vacuum.

GaryS- At this point I am playing. And remember that there is also the vacuum advance to add in to get total advance. Stock 1986 1300 motor. Coil On Plug conversion. Stock collector and MAC mufflers. Do not think the mufflers are changing anything.

Yep, bite the bullet and purchase the breather hose. Or eliminate it with a breather like the old days. Line off the tee and down the side of the bike. Or a little valve cover breather. Skydoc sells a little kit for it.

Ok, most of problem solved. New thread on ignition started.

Ok, got a chance to play. I changed the dwell to AUTO. And it cleared up the tach and stumbling. Evidently the box needs to calculate. I took a film clip of the screen and can see the dwell varience. Made a huge change. Then I started playing with the advance. Dropped the high rpm down a bit. Gave a bit more from 2000 to 3000 then more gradual from 4000 on up. Dead spot is going away on the centerstand. Road trial tomorrow night. Dropped base timing to 5 degrees and played. Felt a bit lagging. So I have settled on 8 degrees for the moment. MAP sensor is still tied to all 4 cylinders. And the voltages are from 2.3-4.7 right now. Seems to be feeling ok. I will be gradually playing and testing. Think I am going to set up some measured lengths on my main road. Then try various tweaks at various gears and rpms. Once that is done, I will start chasing for fuel mileage with different advances at the 3000 to 4000 rpm range. I am also going to wire the original pressure sensor back in at some time and repeat my testing. All this will take some time but should end up with one or two programs that work for my combination. By the way Dingy (Gary) as you can tell I am hooked on this little box. J.B.

I always figured 6mm for pump systems and 10mm for gravity systems. Some old codger type probably told me that at a young age and it stuck.

Ok, 1/4 inch i.d. line is just over 6mm. I am using 5/16 from tank to pump right now. Kind of tight but the crazy pre-molded hose underneath was weather checked. I think you could us 1/4 line up to carbs.

Depends on what he loaded into it. I am still having a lot of problems with mine. Above 2800 rpm the tach is all over the place. And I do think I have cylinders dropping out. Not sure where the problem lies as of yet. Pretty sure that it is in the ignition. I hold throttle steady and I get a 2000 rpm jumping swing. And yes the idle is rougher. Not sure if it is the MAP sensor or the ignition and vacuum curves. It appears to have a great deal more advance in the system than original. Have not heard from Gary about the tachometer problem yet. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Tapatalk

I agree it is difficult to smooth out (turn out) the pulses. There has been discussion about using the original (standard) boost sensor. I think it would work better but there is that remote chance of sensor failure and the sensor feeding 12VDC into the Ignitech. The MAP sensor that is supplied could only feed 5VDC into the Ignitech. I am going to sit down and learn the programming on this TCI over the next few weeks. I should be able to convert the service manual chart into the Ignitech programming.

Made the connector wires myself. I bought a Honda CBR1000RR harness and 4 coils. Then cut my connector ends off of a set of old coils. Soldered and used heatshrink on the wires. Then I pushed some stainless braid for vacuum tubing over the wires. Heat shrink on each end keeps the braid under control so it does not fray. They do plug into the original connectors for the wiring harness for the TCI. Now remember that COPs have a different resistance value. If you upgrade to COPs on an 83-89 ORIGINAL ignition box, you may burn out the TCI. On a 90-93 the TCI is different. And in theory you should be able to run COPS.

The 3K-4K Tachometer dropout seems to be pretty common. I have the same problem. Seems to be just my tach, not my ignition. Unless it is so sudden my butt cannot feel a couple dropped sparks.

Dropped in the Ignitech box and updated the programming. Then changed out the coils and wires for the coil on plug system. Lot of plusses and a few minuses here. Starts easily and the box has a setting for how many revolutions the motor can make before spark is applied. Allows it to spin up a bit. I have tried one and two so far. Two is good when hot but sounds weird. The box is set for a Vmax ignition curve. About 3500 rpm in second gear and the bike has a personality change. Twist it hard and stay above 4500 rpm and it feels like it wants to rip asphalt off the road! From 2000-3000 it feels a touch flat. I suspect I need to move the advance curve down the rpm scale a bit. Get a bit more at lower rpm. There is a bit of tachometer fluctuation when you romp it hard then get off the throttle suddenly. It does a drop from 4k-2k. Just the tach not the motor. Fuel mileage is not known yet. Will report that after a few tanks. Idle is a bit lumpier than stock. Probably due to a couple things. The Vmax advance curve. And the way I am feeding vacuum to the map sensor. I tied all 4 vacuum ports together to the sensor. Experiment to smooth out the pulsing. And I do have the factory restrictor in. I still may have a slight obstruction in my carburetor idle circuits. Or simply need to sync the carbs. My carb sync tool is out of whack. Installed Ignitech on the coil rack. It fits right between the coil mounting ears!! Put the MAP sensor next to it. I access the programming port from under the right front corner of fairing, just behind the fork. I did not want it on top of the air filter. I have a pair of fuse panels there. And it would mean a huge pile of wires going up. And I put a heat shield under the coil plate. Aluminum with a couple pieces of the reflective duct foil on it. Was thinking of a discussion on heat off the heads and the removal of the factory plastic shields. So said what the heck. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/29/ba38a748ee01780f682f0b025a05d016.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/29/4af2b8e564c3544d9a568b8acdadae85.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/29/365727751ba568dfc6aef9f53f11927d.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/29/bf74b87d8c5591a374a23aaa15e7f701.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/29/b0c47134caa606b6985053fcaab1334d.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/29/c54378e725d02ba7405638d0c3debe8c.jpg Got a bunch more pictures but you get the idea.

Small hose off horizontal of tee goes up to front of airbox. Right in front of carb #2. Bigger hose goes up to center rear of airbox. Slides in between carb #1 and #3. Makes an offset to the rear of bike and attaches after threading between the carb bowl vents. Both are vents to atmosphere. Neither is vacuum. Supposedly the one is crankcase venting and the other was for oil return in case any collected in the bottom of the air cleaner. Think that was the little one. It was a dealer add in at first.

Chuckle, unless you have bases.

They do come up. Do not jump on the first one you see. I picked up a spare a while ago for about $25.00. These folks asking $100.00 are nuts.

Love the trike. Been looking for a 1st Gen trike for the stable. Think it would be extremely unique to own. You have the best of several world there.

frankd - I think I had spark to the now dead cylinder with the original TCI. Been enough done that I am starting to blur a bit. The second TCI has a positive cylinder 2 tachometer drop. Both have been dried thoroughly. Neither were wet for months before that. No bike washing or rain. I believe this Ignitech is set up with a Vmax program. However it did start easily. The MAP sensor is good for about 4-500 RPM. I did find a problem with the Ignitech wiring. A WIRE TO THE PICKUP CONNECTION FELL OUT OF THE IGNITECH SIDE!!! Now, I am so far into everything that I have the coils on the workbench on their rack. So re-assembly needs to happen so I can see if that wire was doing anything or not. It may have been making contact. It darn sure is now. I pulled the connector apart and soldered the crimps. I mounted my Ignitech unit on a heat-shielded and modified coil rack. The unit slid right between the coil mounting ears. MAP sensor is right next to it. The programming port can be accessed from the front right side of the fairing. Reach up behind the fork and it is right there. And will have a plug over it so it does not get wet. Waiting on my COP units and wires to arrive. Then will splice those in and see what happens. I have faith in the new Ignition, I do not trust my old units. It is possible I need to remap the box slightly to match the Venture cams as opposed to the Vmax. Will make sure I have good spark to all cylinders befor I pull carb bank off again. JB

Update on project. Installed Ignitech unit and fired bike up. Ran ok but found the right front cylinder was not running right. Pulled plug wire and no RPM drop at all. Other cylinders caused quite a drop. Decided to bite the bullet and drop the coil rack out and test it. Everything right on the money on the bench at 3.7-3.9 Ohms and 13.7K-13.9K Ohms. Physically the coils look good. Plug wires and caps also right on the money reading 4.9K Ohms. Tested pick up coils and they showed 120 Ohms. Ran through the harness and connectors. All seem clean and tight. So, going to install the Ignitech unit and convert over to Coil On Plug just to be sure. Any of these 30 year old items could be failing when hot. Put the whole mess back together and set the Ignitech for the COPs. If this does not solve my weird running problems then I will either send the carbs off to DannyMax for a checkover or run the bike into the pond!!

Probably not. Just a dead cylinder pumping air for a while. Might change the oil. Could have a tiny bit of unburnt fuel went past the rings into crankcase. Talking maybe a tablespoon or so.

Vacuum units are right on the money. Used TCI is scrap. Tach needle bounce. Ignitech on the way from a friend who bought one and decided not to use it.

No room up there on mine. I put the replacement fuse panel on the box. But, I agree it sure smell like a CDI box problem.