lonestarmedic

Delinking is not too bad. Anti-dive on the hydraulic ones are tougher than on my 1986 with the electric solenoids. I understand the brake control feeling. I wanted front only and rear only for a lot of personal reasons. And I put on R1 calipers. I am satisfied with the result. Front pulls down straight and true when I want. Rear adds what it needs and will correctly trail brake in the corners.

Kisa, This motor has never been designed to run well at 2500 rpm. It is slow in the lower rpms. Even stock with a good module my motor did not work well until 3000 RPM. Using a MAP sensor lets us factor in the load on the motor. Whether we call it TPS or IAP. The voltage is translated to a percent of advance. A TPS sensor is linear. Half throttle is 50%. But what gear at which RPM? And what is the torque load on the bike. The vacuum sensor helps by trying to interpret those factors.

Been a couple weeks now and I have played with my mapping a bit. I am satisfied for now and intend to ride the bike and check mileage and performance. The C.O.P. conversion is really the way to go. I feel the plugs are firing at their optimum. My curve is pulling like a freight train. Maybe I can tweak it a bit yet. But the response from 2000 up to 8000 RPM is smooth. The bike feels very different. More willing to respond to throttle and quicker to run up speed and RPM. Is this the module itself? Or the combination? Or merely the fact that my original CDI was starting to fail? I do not know exactly. My next step will be to put the thinner shims back under the diaphragm needles. These I got from SkyDoc17 years ago. Maybe going on 5 years. I had put the carburetors to stock in order to evaluate the ignition. With the thin shims I always got 43 MPG when one up and 37 MPG when 2 up. Right now my best tank has been 39 MPG one up with the stock setup. I know that I am currently running a bit rich in the cruising RPMs. I can see it on the plugs, smell it, and see it on the muffler tips. I may even try switching to a set of those expensive Iridium plugs and see if those respond well with the C.O.P. setup. However, the stock plugs have been doing well. But I sure have clogged them up with all this tuning I am attaching screen shots of my present programming so those interested can see the minor changes. I have also sent them by request to one gentleman who has been having some of the same problems that I encountered.

Dang I love it when a plan comes together. I really like the Ignitech, and the COP conversion took out a lot of problem areas.

Using native windows program? I think it should close by default.

Not to sure on the lightscribe. I have one and have used it seldom. I stick to standard media.

If desktop was a writer and laptop was a reader only it might make the difference.

Gary is it possible you did not finalize a CD? If appendable it would take a Burner not a ROM to read it. And some can even be picky on which CD writer.

Hey, sometimes the mind is the first to go. I remembered that fact after purchasing. I was thinking it was missing/broken.

Nope only zero left now Got the last one for 12.95 and shipping. I was thinking as I was reading. And it dawned on me that when I had the center chrome cover off of my 1986 to turn the engine over to do the valves I did NOT have to do anything with a wire slinger in order to put on a socket!!

Wonder if the front anti-dive solenoids are pulling the system down. At an idle I could see them kick on and drop voltage dramatically. The are activated by the brake light switch circuit. So bike running or off if the key is on and brake light activated they are a set of electric coils pulling current.Last time I was under the fairing I unhooked them. I have Progressive springs and the front air suspension is still working. Did not find any real difference with them unhooked when stopping. But, I sure have more of those volt thingies at a stoplight!!

Mr. McDade will be sending me a collector also. Mine is still holding out and looks good. But, while he is making them I jumped on it. Wonder how my MAC mufflers will sound with the collector

New ones will be snug. No sealer! I dropped mine in a cup of clean fuel overnight then installed. Before dunking went in with little resustance. After dunking very snug. Each plug is about $5.50. And the flat spots on the plugs face each other on installation.

Jfman- too funny. Geo-venturing.

Did the same thing tonight. Put in a new Deka battery. No complaints though. The old one was almost 4 years old. Notices the voltage on the Ignitech program. All the Texas heat and the tons of starting while doing carbs and all the other stuff took its toll.

garyS - if you need a hand walking you through something my number is on my profile. Not sure on the CD. Should work. And we do get pretty technical and involved at times. Giving folks who like to tinker something adjustable is dangerous.

As you can see, mine is a 1.25" coupler and a pair of plugs inside it. Probably a bit smaller volume even than your capped pipe. I do not really see a response lag. And tonight's butt-o-meter indicates good to go. The bike now has a very different personality!

GaryS- as delivered the Ignitech works just fine. I am in search of the most I can get out of it for my bike, my riding style, and my situations. MAP off port 2 is fine. I just noticed that it pulses a bit at idle. Trying to smooth it out. The dwell setting on mine is different because I no longer have spark plug wires. Base advance changes once again for my bike. The original is fine. MAP voltage adjustments because every bike is slightly different. Original range is fine. Bottom line, this is a universal TCI that can be programmed to duplicate the Venture/Vmax TCI. And as such it can be programmed to an individual bike. Other choices out there to replace a faulty TCI include: 1-a used TCI from another bike. 2- sending the bike to a junkyard. Yamaha does not make the original anymore.

Kisa- Will examine it.

I built a small vacuum reservoir for the MAP sensor. Sent all 4 ports to a union. Then put in the restrictor. At that point I attached the Dingy-Can and then on to the MAP sensor. Sucsess!! The voltage readings are stabilized at only a maximum 3% variance. I may need to adjust the voltage values a bit yet. I like my 100% as it is. Running 4.7 volts. The reading taken with the engine off and no vacuum. My lower voltage is currently ar 3.2 volts. It may need a bit of lowering yet. Goingto figure out how to tie down the reservoir then go ride. Ended up with reservoir up on top of coil bracket next to MAP sensor. Remember, did coil on plug conversion so bracket was empty. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/07/c02d8e09b377381f8c06b2a303786940.jpg

I built a small vacuum reservoir for the MAP sensor. Sent all 4 ports to a union. Then put in the restrictor. At that point I attached the Dingy-Can and then on to the MAP sensor. Succsess!! The voltage readings are stabilized at only a maximum 3% variance. I may need to adjust the voltage values a bit yet. I like my 100% as it is. Running 4.7 volts. The reading taken with the engine off and no vacuum. My lower voltage is currently ar 3.2 volts. It may need a bit of lowering yet. Going.to figure out how to tie down the reservoir then go ride.

Folks if you are on the fence with the Ignitech now is the time to get one. Gary's package is ready to go and really does a plug and play. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Tapatalk

Gary- the canister is impressive!! And such a simple thing to do. Thanks for the vids. And thanks for showing that photobucket will do videos. Will upload mine. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Tapatalk

Ground Hugger- I suspect you are in the majority. Throw it on and run. And Gary may have set yours to auto if you told him you were converting the coils. He is the type to ask those questions in order to send out a good product.

Gentlemen the Ignitech as Gary delivers it is very good. My base idle is rock steady at about 1075. It gave me no problems. I am one of those who always tinker to fully understand what I have. And with the adjustability of the Ignetech I can tailor it to my riding style. The module is set to long dwell for the standard Venture coils. Because of my coil on plug conversion I had to change it. And the short setting gave me problems. The auto setting worked. As far as the advance curve goes, I did not make major changes. A few degrees here and there. And idle may be a bit raspier just due to the settings. Base advance on a Venture is 5 degrees. The box is set at 10. Maybe to help with starting the bike. Mine does warm up a bit different also. Less choke to start, but needs a small amount for just a bit longer. With this module, the advance curve is a bit more performance oriented. I think it is probably more like the original designers envisioned. It was then detuned a bit for EPA, customer satisfaction, and other factors.