lonestarmedic

David - so far it is the feline's rectal opening!!! It works just like the standard cable. One hitch though - he has to have your intercom cable. Because of the tight plug on the amplifier he can't use his standard patch cable. I have tried it on a couple times. I am waiting on Uncle Sam to send me some refund money to get the Zumo 550. It is a prototype and probably about 30 days or so from release. We haven't decided on the best housing design or output cable. I will post pictures after I get with him and finalize the details. I have combined this with a prototype cassette removal and conversion to aux. input setup I have been fiddling with. When finished, there will not be a cassette player. The housing will be a box with a 12vdc outlet, a switch to activate the aux. input, an indicator light, and a water resistant lid. Should be able to drop a cell phone into the box, charge it, and interface with the Zumo. Turn on the radio,power the Zumo, flip the switch and listen away. The AM/FM will be disconnected while the switch is flipped. The CB will over-ride the audio just like with the radio. The Zumo will always show visual cues. If you are listening to the AM/FM you will need to flip the switch to enable the audio output. The speaker/headset switch will work as it does now. I am using the same electrical wiring as Scotty. JB

Wilkie- see me when we do the carbs and plugs. I can show you how the whole setup works. We can use standard headsets/intercoms. I can even show off the prototype BuddyRich G1 interface cable for the cellphone!! JB

I would look at the riding position of both bikes. On the early Ventures you are in a neutral to forward position. This can cramp your legs a bit if you are long-legged. Also tips your hips a bit different. On the 2nd Gens you are seated cruiser style. The floorboards are sett correctly for heel-toe shifting and you can stretch out. JB

Earl - I removed the proportioner on the rear and installed a new line and single fitting banjo bolt. I am using the Goodridge lines and fittings on my bike. The adjustable AN fitting banjo ends made alignment a snap. John - I am not sure if you will get the desired performance out of your 1985 when it is de-linked. You will have to eliminate or re-plumb the ant- dive. After that, you may need to install new front springs from Progressive or the like to avoid excessive fork compression. I found that with 2 calipers on the front working full strength my front suspension did react differently. I agree on the aspect of riding de-linked. I have always had separated brakes. I like the ability to control my braking in turns and on gravel much better now. JB

Sorry Earl- Brain fart - I meant my OTHER Right!! JB

Tom - if you are worried about RF make sure to route away from spark plug wires. Also, you could get some RG coax cable with a braided center wire. Put the center wire to the positive and the braid to the ground. Run where you want and then connect the center to positive but leave the outer braid disconnected. Grab your ground from a good grounding point. This will shield the positive. Also, I have done this with That crazy wire loom that has stainless braid inside clear tubing. Run the positive inside. There is also a foil wrap that seems to work ok. JB

The PC680 is an excellent choice. Also, pay attention to the battery cables, the fuse panel, the grounds, and the connections. Upgraded cables are available in the classifieds under 1st Gen. Worth the money and effort. Fuse panel is usually a bit worn out. The clips lose tension and the panel flexes. Upgrade to an ATC type panel. Clean all connections and grounds. Dont forget the starter button and the key switch. JB

It is possible to reroute the brakes to separated front and rear. I did my 1986 this summer and I like the result. However, I also installed R-1 calipers on the front and rear. It takes new lines, a couple banjo bolts, and a front splitter. SkyDoc 17 and I used a V-Max splitter and front lines. I installed a new stainless steel line from the front M/C to the splitter at the same time. I have since upgraded to all stainless lines. I did not notice a difference in performance from the rubber to the stainless lines. I did notice an increase in performance when I put the R-1 caliper on the rear. You use a left front R-1 caliper on the rear. R-6 calipers also work. If you want to tackle this, SkyDoc17 and I have a couple write ups. He has pictures on his profile page. Do this modification only after careful consideration. The stock set up works great for most people! Also, don't destroy any old parts in case you want to go back. JB

That is a decent deal. I have been shopping for a solar charger. Most are around 100-120 dollars. However that is for a bare charger. The controller is 30-40 dollars extra. And this one has the good controller with the 2 stage charging. Helps to prevent sulfation of the battery. It is 3 feet long. I am ordering a slightly lower wattage unit that folds like a briefcase. I want to store it behind the seat of the moving van I own when in use. Then I can place it in the windshield and hook it to the controller and through the lighter plug. I only start the truck once a month and I usually boost it with my Expedition just to make sure. JB

Don, I never hear a whine on my 1st Gen clutch assembly. It is a diaphragm clutch just like yours. So, why does a 2nd Gen whine and not a 1st Gen. Wanna take a weekend and pull clutches? Might be worthwhile to see what is different. It would only take a couple of gaskets and a few tools. Hardest part would be getting the clutch off the shaft. Second thought- I do have a complete 1986 driveline in a bike on the back porch. I could remove the clutch assembly form that one for inspection purposes. JB

The "Platinum Burner" lights from Wal-Mart utilize an MR16 bulb. Designed like a projector bulb. The reflector and bulb are 1 piece with a bi-pin connector. You can find these in various wattages and beam patterns. Just make sure it has the glass sealed front. Stock they come with a 24 degree spread and a 55 watt power. I have tried the narrow spot pattern and switched back to the 24 degree. I have them aimed at the exact same distance forward as my low beam. They light up to the side great. On the open road if I switch to high beam the rear of the high beam pattern meets the front of the driving light pattern. Really lights the road. JB

The location I gave you is 100% correct. As stated, it is inboard of the frame. Many times, you can find the regulators on e-bay fairly cheap. Remove the seat, side cover, foot board mount and check the plugs. They are up near the seat edge. To remove the regulator, unplug and then fish the regulator out from under the frame. It comes out the bottom with the wires following it. And trust me, it will be grime and gunk covered. The cooling fins point towards the rear tire. If you determine that the stator is good and the regulator is bad let me know. I have a known good regulator for a 1986 on my shelf. I bought a new unit at a great deal on E-bay. So I installed the new unit and then saved my old one. Plugs, wires, and connectors are A-1 yet. And, I call them a rectum-fryer because they go bad and your butt is cooked!! Expensive and a pain in the behind. JB

Now Chabi- You know he mis-spelled the object he is actually seeking. I believe he is actually asking where the rectum-fryer is. Please recheck your information and parts book for location. JB

Look behind the left passenger floorboard. It is mounted to the frame!! The bolts go through the frame from the outside into threaded holes on the rectifier. I think the floorboard may need to be removed. I can just see mine at the end of the lower black frame. Looky for the black finned thingy that is full of tar, mud and road grime. JB

Do a bit of a search on these folks. They bait and switch. More bad reports than you can count. They also have many other names. Go to www.zumoforums.com and see the bad dealer list. Run away Run away. JB

1st, it depends on the year of the bike. 1983-1985 used a plate and coil springs 1986 and up to include the 2nd Gens. uses a diaphragm spring. The earlier units can have stronger springs installed. The later setup can have a stronger spring installed or dual stock springs. I chose the stronger single spring. I was worried about the dual setup not giving enough gradual engagement. The stronger spring comes with an extra friction disc. A small change in the stack and it goes right in. Many people only do this and do not replace the old discs. They have had good results. I changed all my frictions, added the spring and extra disc, then sanded my steel plates. If the plates show signs of heat (blueing) make sure to check for flatness. The whole job can be done in less than 2 hours including the sanding and checking. On the sidestand you won't even need to drain the oil. You will lose maybe a few teaspoons. There is also a Barnett kit that puts the old style multi-spring system in with stronger springs. New stronger single spring kit from www.pcwracing.net Barnett clutch system from www.buckeyeperformance.com New discs and gasket from either place. Also, make sure you have a long 5mm allen wrench. I have one that fits on a 3/8" drive ratchet. The other helpful item is an inch-pound torque wrench for the spring bolts. A st of o-ring picks for removing the discs and the inner wire retainer wouldn't be a bad idea. JB

Rez - I remove the shields and then pack a bit of extra grease inside. The OEM bearings came that way. I used a high temp synthetic grease. I don't think that the bearings will last as long with nothing but the stock grease. JB

Don't feel like grabbing the exact link but there is one on for saddlebag guards that look like Condor had them hoisted up a jib for storage!! I also get a kick out of the buy it now for $2.00 and shipping is $500.00. Who are they kidding? I realize the scam is to avoid paying the percentage for the selling price. I refuse to purchase from anyone who does this. JB

I agree with Doug. Good parts inventory. As of late last year, they offer 15% off of list on parts. I just picked up exhaust gasket for my 1986 and they were in stock. Very polite folks and helpful. If you are just browsing and waiting, they always offer to help AND they will offer you a bottle of cold water from the old Coca Cola chest up front. Of course it is a bottle with their lable. Never had service there, but the gentleman I met when looking at a 2008 RSV was very familiar with the bike. A service technician that actually acted like he knew the electronics and the V-4. They are open Tues. to Sat. and close at either 6pm or 7pm depending on the day. I like the place. AThey are on I35 north of San Antonio. Get off at Olympia and go about 1/2 mile. Next to a Rudy's BBQ. Oh, Rudy's is good eats. JB

I have a LH mirror less glass if you want to do the drill and tap trick on a set of mirrors. JB

Dang, I just rolled through San Angelo on the bike Saturday! I am in San Antonio and have a carb synch tool. As I recall it is easy enough to do even in a parking lot. Just need to have extra vaccum caps incase the old ones are cracked. Oh, check those critters as a leaker could cause an uneven running. Or, Tom in Blanco might be willing to help. Might be an easier run for you. JB

I sent you a request Taters. Hope this helps your cause. Send MochaLady a request. She will join in the fun. JB

I just stripped the OEM grips off of the wrecked 1986. I measured 7/8" on the left bar. However, the right throttle sleeve is 1". You will need a grip depth of 5 3/4" to clear the bar ends. It is actually about 5 5/8" right at the end. This means either early 1st Gens. are different or no-one has stripped the right grip for a long time. Kuryakyn does make a set of grips for the 2 different sizes in one kit. JB

Planning a ride around hill country from San Antonio. Y'all would be most welcome. Link to the description in the M and E section. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=286517#post286517 JB

This stuff does work! Follow directions carefully. When drying the tank, I set them upside down and put a fishtank pump and tube in the hole. This circulates a bit of air and seems to help the process. Cleaning and drying are the critical steps. I have also used a product called Red-Kote. It is made in Alliance, Ohio. I think it sticks better. The trick with all of these is the drying. Try these steps (from an old Red-Kote kit): 1. Empty all fuel from tank. 2. Remove sending unit, float, feed lines, filters, anything that could be clogged by the coating. 3. Remove any loose rust by tapping on the tank with a rubber mallet or by tumbling with a piece of chain in the tank. (I used about 2 handfuls of 1/2" nuts and acetone. Covered holes and rock the tank around) Flush out debris. 4. Clean tank by steaming for about 15 minutes. Boil out is not recommended because the high alkalinity removes the tin from the terne plate. A standard water soluble degreasing chemical works well. (I used simple green and then acetone) 5. Any leaks larger than 1/32nd of an inch should be repaired by soldering or your usual method. Here is the important stuff!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Acetone works great instead of the M.E.K. just a bit longer dry. 6. Make sure that the tank is completely dry before continuing. This is very important. Without a blower, drying may take up to 12 hours. The use of a blower to circulate air through the tank will cut the time to an hour or so. The fastest method is to drain the tank for 5 minutes and then pour 1 pint of Methyl Ethyl Ketone into the tank, slosh thoroughly and pour out. Repeat with a second pint of M.E.K. and you are ready to use Red-Kote® immediately. Do not re-use the first pint of M.E.K., instead let it evaporate safely away from flames or sparks. The second pint of M.E.K. may be used as the first pint on the next job. One quart of M.E.K. will only absorb up to 3 ounces of water. This is why it should not be reused. 7. Cover all open holes in the tank by plugging or covering with tape, except the one to be used for pouring in the coating. 8. Pour one to two quarts (I poured in about a quart for a 5 gallon tank) of Red-Kote® into the tank and cover the last opening. You can get by with one quart on tanks of about 12 gallons or less. We recommend two quarts for larger tanks to make sure you get the coating to flow behind all the baffles. 9. Tip the tank onto each side and slosh the coating around to completely cover the inside. Use a rocking motion rather than shaking. It is important to do a thorough job or you may miss parts of the tank behind baffles. 10. Drain out the excess coating and cover tightly to save for reuse. The best method is to stand the tank up with a corner drain hole over a can to collect the excess as it drips out. It is very important that you do not leave puddles in the tank. Flip upside down and drain out the fill hole-make sure it is the lowest spot and tilt tank to prevent any puddling. Here is my fish tank pump trick--------- 11. Open all tank openings to allow the best air flow. Air dry for 8 to 24 hours. When cured there will be almost no solvent smell left in the tank. If the coating is not completely cured before fuel is added the curing process will be stopped. Do not use open flame or an electric element for drying or an explosion may result. Do not blow air into the tank until at least 60 minutes of drying time have passed. Using air sooner may cause bubbles may form in the coating. 12. If the leaks or rust are severe it is a good idea to use a second coat after the first coat dries completely. Better safe than sorry-coat it again and don't skimp on the drying times!! 13. Reassemble and install the tank on the vehicle. 14. For clean-up use methyl ethyl ketone, acetone or a quality lacquer thinner with no alcohol in it. Tips & Hints: Do not leave the can open to the air as it will thicken or form a skin on top. When Red-Kote® is reused after pouring it back out of a gas tank it may need thinning before reuse. Red-Kote® may be thinned with M.E.K. or Acetone. Do not use lacquer thinner to dilute Red-Kote. For removing water from the tank prior to coating you may use acetone. Acetone absorbs much more water than M.E.K. and is less expensive. We do not sell acetone. Most shops are punching a hole in a corner of the tank to aid in draining it completely. Then they solder in a drain cock. Do not solder or weld on the tank after it has been coated. The coating will turn to ash if heated above 250°F. I didn't thin the coating. So, the whole process took about 4 days for 2 coats. I recall putting the tank in the sun on the driveway for 24 hours. Don't forget Mother Nature here! Take tank in before the sun goes down and the dewpoint hits!!!! Cool metal attracts moisture and rust. Some of our customers have reported a way to speed up the process significantly. They are thinning Red-Kote® about 20 - 25% with M.E.K. (1 part M.E.K. to 4 or 5 parts Red-Kote®). This allows the Red-Kote® to dry in only a couple of hours in many cases. They also report that using air to dry the inside does not cause the bubbles that form when straight Red-Kote® is dried with air. You will get a much thinner coating. We are told that two of these thin coats still take less time to dry than one thick coat. Red-Kote® does not stick well to plastic tanks or to plastic parts inside a gas tank. Do not coat over other coatings. Remove old coatings completely first, using M.E.K. or other solvent. Call us if you have a problem. The two most common problems we see are: 1) Not completely drying the tank of water before coating. Red-Kote® will not stick to wet metal. When it dries it will peel off in sheets. 2) Not allowing the Red-Kote® to dry completely. If Red-Kote® is not completely dry or has puddles left it will form strings or flecks in the gas. These may get past the fuel filter and plug carburetors or injectors. Puddles of Red-Kote® left behind baffles or in corners may never dry completely. This is because a skin forms over the puddles and prevents drying underneath. Once the skin ruptures Red-Kote® forms strings in the gas. Damon Industries guarantees the product only, not your application of it. After application to over 50,000 cars we have seen 7 problems. All were application errors as described above. We have never seen failure due to ageing. Both of these conditions are prevented easily by proper drying. All problems are correctable by stripping out the Red-Kote® with M.E.K. and recoating. We recommend that you tell your customers not to use fuel additives containing methanol or methyl alcohol. We have had instances of methanol pulling the red dye out of Red-Kote® which turns the gas red. This has not caused any damage to our knowledge. Usually only "cheap" additives contain methanol. Good products contain isopropanol or other solvents. Most engine warranties are voided by the use of methanol anyway. Do not rush the job. In many cases it will take more than one day to do a job worthy of your time and guarantee. JB