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lonestarmedic

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Everything posted by lonestarmedic

  1. lonestarmedic
    If the trunk has a reflector, it is a stock Yamaha part. If the trunk has rear lighting with turn signals, that is an aftermarket item. It was produced by big bike parts. That bar has been discontinued for many years. You have a couple choices. Watch for one on e-bay and bid. Or get a standard reflector unit and convert the bike back to stock. Both units are held on by double-sided tape. However, always look for screws etc. Originally the light bar had yellow outboard lenses and a red center. The light bar is thicker than the reflector bar so the parts won't interchange. JB
  2. lonestarmedic
    I encountered the same problem at about 300 miles. I had the foam grips. They didn't last long. The foam wore out and they didn't have a palm swell. Combine that with soaking up water and soap and they had to go. I put on a set of Show Chrome grips. They have a palm swell and are ribbed rubber between the chrome. I added the wrist rests to both sides. What a difference! Hands are relaxed and knot between shoulders is gone. Muscles on outside of forearm aren't sore. My cost including freight for the grips and the wings was about $85.00. Oh, for anyone wondering, I purchased a set to fit a 1500 Goldwing. That gave me 7/8" on the left and 1" on the right. I did have to use a foam washer between the grip and the controls. Pictures to come when I slow down at work. Best pricing by far was from a small place called Dave's Cycle Supply. You call and order - no fancy check-out. JB
  3. lonestarmedic
    I ordered one of everything on the page!! Just under $100.00 with shipping to San Antonio. Between me and BuddyRich we should have it handled. JB
  4. lonestarmedic
    The easiest way to repair the plug is to replace it with a short cable. I have put several new sockets in and find that it doesn't take to many dismounts with headset attached to crack the plastic. I use a 5 pin AT/MIDI computer cable. Most of the time they cost about $5.00. It is hard to find a black cable. I remove the socket and put in a strain relief. Then match the pinout. Usually I epoxy the strain relief into the large hole. Make the new cable about 8 inches long. About 2 inches inside and the remainder will hang down but not touch the saddlebag. You can go to Home Depot and find a rubber cap for the end. Get a piece of cord and thread it through the cap and knot it. Then tie the other end around the cable. The female end will not have the shroud extension like the driver's cable but will connect just fine. JB
  5. lonestarmedic
    Hi Herb- Maggie and I were out yesterday for the Lockhart run. The temps matched yours. We ran about 160 miles or so. At 75mph and 2 up the temp gauge matched yours at 1/2 or a needle width above. In stop/go it went to 3/4 or so and the fan kicked on a lot. So, it sounds like you are right on. I am thinking about a lower temp fan control and the muzzie fan. That and a bit of engine ice might help. However, when the BBQ cooks in the trunk, nothing will help!!! JB P.S. I put a bit more safety chrome on the old girl in anticipation of your possible arrival at Lockhart. I understand the heat and why you didn't make it. But, it would have been nice to have another 1st Gen.
  6. lonestarmedic
    M- I have pictures of a set on my 1986 close-up. I took them off after 1 ride. I did not like the configuration. However, I kept the pictures. PM me an e-mail and I will send them over. They are a pain to put on the 1st time. I will warn you, remove the bolt COMPLETELY from the clevis where it attaches to the brake and shift rods There is a groove in the splined shaft that the bolt sits in. Can't pull the little clevis off until the bolt is OUT. JB
  7. lonestarmedic
    A few small dabs of 3M weatherstrip adhesive works wonders. It comes in black. JB
  8. lonestarmedic
    The neat thing about this project was the time and money. I got 2 of the light bars for $30.00 and the aluminum for $8.00. Two flathead bolts and a few feet of wire. It took me about an hour from start to finish. I had 2 OEM torx bolts for the helmet holders. However, the OEM bolts could hold the bar to the bike and 2 1/4 - 20 bolts would work great on the helmet holders. Earl, why would I want parts off of a 2nd Gen.? I might as well lock out 5th gear!! JB
  9. lonestarmedic
    I finished my Garmin install and took some time to upgrade my rear lighting. I did the L.E.D. upgrade to my trunk lights last year. They work great but tend to wash out in full sunlight. I liked the undermount bar that many folks are installing on the 2nd Generation bikes. So, how to get that 15" bar under my trunk? The answer, remove the helmet locks and put an aluminum bar in their place. I countersunk places for the original screws and then mounted the light bar over top of them. On the ends of the aluminum bar I reinstalled the helmet locks. Tapped all of the holes and applied some blue locktite. Now, I have a bright running/brake light unit just above the tail light. It looks like it blocks the original unit, but I can remove the lens to change the bulbs with the bar in place. JB
  10. lonestarmedic
    Finally got a moment to install my Garmin. I placed it on the RH bar. It is integrated with the audio system through the cassette input. I gutted a cassette player and installed a switchbox. Now I flip a switch and the Garmin works with the intercom, CB, and the radio. The radio is cut off and then all the Garmin takes over. I also installed an XM receiver on the trunk. Finished the whole thing with a Buddy Rich microphone interface. Now, we have MP3 input, XM, cell phone, and navigation. I forget who sent me the cassette player, but you may claim a free switch interface conversion whenever you desire. Thanks for the extra unit. Things to do yet: 1. Line the box to eliminate rattles. 2. Solder up an audio triggered priority switch for the MP3 to Garmin. This will eliminate the manual switch and allow for navigation prompts when switched to MP3. 3. Finish the box cover. It will be a flat cover with a piano hinge. Sapper Medic has a line on refrigerator magnetic sealing material to hold down the cover. 4. Install the 12VDC socket for MP3/Cell Phone charging. It will go inside the pocket. The 2820 works great. I need to tweak the volume settings for the Bluetooth yet. It picks up my Motorola Q9c very well. It pulls in the phonebook well. My phonebook has a few hundred entries so it takes about 1 minute. The 2820 has a remote control, so Maggie can work it from the navigation platform (rear seat). It does not have a battery or an SD slot. However, it hooks via USB to the computer for using MapSource software. Volume from the system in all modes is fantastic. I like the wide screen and the buttons. JB
  11. lonestarmedic
    I raised several and really miss them. I had black danes. Congrats on the addition and get some weight on her. Maybe someday we will have another. Right now we would leave a dog alone too much. Not fair to the dogs. Maybe I will get goldfish. Call them Spot and Rover JB
  12. lonestarmedic
    Long time to warm up. Temps run low in evening on highway Thermostat laying in bottom of saddle bag! Glad it is running Herb. Cables on the way. Getting all the rest out also. JB
  13. lonestarmedic
    Pingle makes an air shifter that works great. Also will interrupt the ignition for a brief second to allow a shift. Works up and down on a set of buttons. I think the clutch works the same. I know a LH amputee that rides a trike. JB
  14. lonestarmedic
    Mine needs a bit of choke even after just sitting for a couple hours. It doesn't stumble but it is cold-blooded. Does it still take a lot of choke for a cold start? Thinking that the choke is a bit rich. We can check it out one evening. Or morning on the weekend. JB
  15. lonestarmedic
    I sure would like 2 of those Aussie patches. Next time someone puts a deal together keep me in mind. I will share the postage etc. JB
  16. lonestarmedic
    I am very happy with the Clarion speakers. They are a poly speaker with a coaxial tweeter. I find the entire range is improved. Funny thing, the tweeters are aimed just right. The focal point of the sound is right at my ears. The music almost sounds like it is coming from my headset speakers! I paid about $25.00 for them on Flea-Bay. JB
  17. lonestarmedic
    Earl- Long way-take off both side panels. Advantage is you can check wiring and fit the new speakers modifying things as needed. Short way- remove the turn signals and work on the hardware by feel. Advantage is short time and less problems with the plastic. I use the long way. Often the replacement speakers need the leads modified or a bit of adjustment to the speaker guards to make sure the fit is good. I used a set of Clarion's. I found the lead attachment needed to be tweaked to drop the speakers through the hole. Once the radio is out (key lock disconnected), take out the radio base screws and turn that panel to drop it through the main panel. Then you can pull the main panel off. The screw at the base of the windshield is a bugger. I use a right angle handle for a phillips bit. Hold onto the speaker grill area as the weight of the speakers is hanging off unsupported plastic. JB
  18. lonestarmedic
    I took these cruddy cell phone pics of the bolt. Let me know if it is the correct one. The discoloration is grease. The pivot was pretty well lubed. I sent you a PM. I need address including zip code. JB
  19. lonestarmedic
    Herb-if the chips are blown, send it down to me and I can replace them. Not too bad of a job. I have a good solder station with a big magnifier light. (Fixes that mature eye problem!) JB
  20. lonestarmedic
    I got one. Just pulled a shock off for the Butt Butler. He didn't need the hardware. I threw all the bolts in a box. Give me an idea what to look for and it is yours. JB
  21. lonestarmedic
    Try re-flowing all the solder points on the board, not just the 6 contacts. I have found a couple boards with cracked solder farther up. alsso, the connector plug can get loose contacts/dirty. I used to do just the 6 spots only to have the dread E messages come up again. JB
  22. lonestarmedic
    Herb- Make sure to remove the sensor. Then install the resistor in its place. Finally, run the free end of the resistor to a switched positive power source. Some folks splice into the accessory terminal at the top of the fuse panel. I make a little assembled lead when doing this. I solder wire on either end of the resistor. Then a bullet connecctor to fit the factory sensor plug. I put the resistor in heat shrink tubing and lay an old piece of nylon zip tie along side it to support the resistor leads. Kinda like a splint. Then I shrink the tubing over the resistor and tie. Put a ring terminal on the other end to fit the accessory screw. JB
  23. lonestarmedic
    Bob - Here are the pictures. Although dirty, the splines all look square and lubed. The gears don't make noise or have a bunch of backlash. If you want larger images, send me a PM with an e-mail address. JB
  24. lonestarmedic
    Bob- I will have to pull the wheel and clean the splines. I dont feel or hear any slop. I will post and PM pictures of the condition later. Might be a diamond or................................... a piece of @*$^%^#&@*! JB
  25. lonestarmedic
    I took a 10 by 1.25 permathread kit and made the hole into RH threads. Took me about 10 minutes on my 1986. To install the chrome covers you need socket head or buttonhead bolts. I picked up som chrome ones and a set of those caps that fit the allen sockets. Worked out great. Just takes a steady hand and a bit of planning. JB
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