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lonestarmedic

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Everything posted by lonestarmedic

  1. lonestarmedic
    Yup let me stick this here needle in ya. Honk Honk. Nah, I think I'll stik to what I got. However, if I get the Vision, I may spring for a plate something like "Area51". Don - Shaddup over there!!! JB
  2. lonestarmedic
    Our Exo 200 helmets seem to be pinned in at 2 points on the "S". Thinking 2 small holes for through mounts. JB
  3. lonestarmedic
    Tartan listed it very well. In addition to the usual fire fighting jobs, it may have a good sized pump and a foam system on board. This would allow the water to do several things. Class A foam makes water penetrate better and put out a fire quickly with very little water. Think of smothering with fluffy shaving cream. Very little water damage and quick. Class B foam is for petroleum fires. Blankets the spill and smothers the fire. Also, an aerial has lots of space for rescue tools. It may house the hydraulic tools, air bags, and probably generator and portable lights. It is large and takes skill to operate. But, look under the ladder before you judge. I do agree a rural or small suburban department might not need this truck that often. Also as suggested, what did it do to the ISO ratings for insurance? Might just benefit the residents in insurance reductions. JB
  4. lonestarmedic
    Thom - I removed my helmet locks, installed an aluminum bar and the LED light, then made the bar long enough to put the helmet locks outboard of the light bar. 1) LED bar @ $16.00 2) Countersunk torx screws @ $2.00 3) Aluminum stock @ $6.00 4) Wiring stuff maybe $4.00 Took me about 45 minutes and looks fantastic. The helmet locks are still under the trunk area. Helmet locks are actually easier to use now JB
  5. lonestarmedic
    Also, the Honda Goldwing has a manually adjustable windshield. Not quite as nice as electric but has 2 levers and ratchets up and down. I don't think there is quite enough room inside a 2nd Gen fairing to house the mechanism and make it safe. Oh Dano- I guess I may have to change my screen name. I am considering purchasing one o dem dere Bozo bikes. How does BozoMedic work for you? JB
  6. lonestarmedic
    Ok take a deep breath and start at the beginning. Get a cheap voltmeter and a small battery charger. Something like 3 amps. Start charging battery. Check main fuse in funky holder to left of battery. It has a fuse link between screws. In the fuse holder there is a slot that may have replacements. If not I have seen them in a rack at Autozone, some cars had them. Check glass fuses and holder clips. Might be brittle and bad spring tension or broken. You can cut the wires on the clips and get an ATC fuse holder with pigtails and splice in. Look for signs of water under airbox indicating possible wet ignition box. This doesn't sound like ignition. Most electronic ignition needs over 9vdc to fire at all. Sounds like low voltage to me. Remove LH side cover and check connectors between regulator and stator. Regulator is mounted on back side of frame behind passenger foot peg mount. Connector may be melted from loose connection. Connectors are about 2-3 inches below side of seat on a long pigtail running up vertical frame strut. Check regulator output. 13.5 or better at 2000 rpm. Charge battery good, Pull headlight and unplug. Stop and charge frequently. Once you get to Cody, we can get parts to you for repair as needed. I have a good regulator from an 86 that I just checked out. I think I have a stator cover gasket. There are a few folks with good stators stashed. If plug on pigtail is melted, get wire splices and hard wire. I suggest Posi-Lock connectors. I think Autozone or Advanced Auto may have them. They don't need crimp pliers and hold great. Voltmeter can be used to check stator output once battery is charged enough to start bike. You are looking for about 20 volts AC across the input wires from the stator. (Not to ground) There are 3 large wires. Disconnect stator or back probe connector. Check ignition switch and make sure it turns ok. Check kill switch and give it a squirt of light lube and work it. Same for high beam switch. I doubt these items but check them anyway. Possible stuck contacts. Should not give symptoms you described. My cell number is in my profile. JB
  7. lonestarmedic
    Remember the old large AT series cables on keyboards? Same thing. or a MIDI cable from computer to sound input device. Those work also. Second hand computer shop is a great source. JB
  8. lonestarmedic
    Yep, it has encouraged me to look at other brands for my new ride. I had been holding off until now. Been working all this overtime all year and getting ready to purchase a house and a bike to have fun with. Like @#$%^&* I am going to wait until 2011! Love my 1st Gen. - want to put it up and use it for Sunday rides. Respect the 2nd Gen but don't like fork mounted fairings. So, Victory Vision, Honda Goldwing, BMW LT, Kawasaki Voyager, or Harley Road Glide. The last 3 don't interest me much. A Road Glide wanna be from Japan and a bike that comes standard withOUT the tourpack. Well, back to the grind and save my pesos and sheckles. JB
  9. lonestarmedic
    As I suspected, Yamaha carried the Venture another year. Too bad considering what they could do and what other companies have done. Still a very fine machine. Possibly one of the best flowing designs for a bat-wing fairing touring bike. Guess I will go tune up my trusty 1986, change the oil and give Mama-Yama a few dollars at the PARTS counter. JB
  10. lonestarmedic
    I hope for a new platform but really wonder if Yamaha can pull it off in light of the present economy. JB
  11. lonestarmedic
    Tim - I have the kit and about 4 inserts left yet. If you want to use it let me know. I can give you a website to find the bolts. Chrome metric allens for about $4.00 each. Might polish the caps this winter. Or might just repaint them. I got the chrome covers on the parts bike. Did not get the bolts! Covers were in the trunk. JB
  12. lonestarmedic
    Tim- I mounted my Garmin 2820 on the right. I gave up and bought a thread insert kit for 10 x 1.25 - RH thread. I covered the bike, held my breath and drilled out the hole. Tapped and threaded the right hand thread kit in and used a bare touch of red lock-tite on the way in. The result was perfect!! Plenty of meat for the threads and the insert I chose was just right. Now, I could use chrome or S/S allen head bolts to finish. I used a ram mount that had the bolts included. Only problem is I can't put the chrome covers on the master cylinders now. Not enough room on the RH side. Someplace is a set of pictures showing the mount and the Garmin. Either in the GPS/Audio section or the 1st Gen tech section. JB
  13. lonestarmedic
    I will see if I can dig anything out of my garage. Maybe I marked the thickness on one of my notepads. I will say do NOT make them from brass. The spacers hold the boards away from the frame right at the peg mounting points. Your entire weight is on the bolts and spacers when you stand on the boards. This is also why the under-belly bar was installed. Too much torque on the crashbar mount. So the cross bar was designed to prevent the twist on the mounts. I had to find a bar for the set I had because the previous owner had cut it to access the oil filter easier. JB
  14. lonestarmedic
    I am ready to buy a new bike by the end of the year. I have decided that I want another frame mounted fairing. So far, the Victory Vision is my choice. The Gold Wing is a proven performer and I have owned 2 in the past. I just plain old like the Vision. I am waiting to see if Yamaha will produce a touring bike that I like. I would really like something like the Vulcan Voyager or the Road Glide with the V-4. JB
  15. lonestarmedic
    Wilkie- Here is the link to my project: [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19715]1st Gen main fuse panel replacement - VentureRider.Org[/ame] Here is the Pennsylvania version by Earl (Skydoc_17) http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24784&highlight=fuse My fuse panel has side exits so it sits flat but takes up a bit more real estate. Earl's is a bottom exit so it is narrower but needs mounting brackets. I ran a pair of wires to fuse #6 and down my harness to exit out near the battery. Then I later used it as the driving light circuit. Good luck tomorrow afternoon! And I get off at 6pm. if you need a hand. JB
  16. lonestarmedic
    Wilkie- Check your fuse panel. Last time I was in there the glass fuse clips looked pretty brittle. Might be time for an ATC fuse panel upgrade. I do have some time if you want the help. JB
  17. lonestarmedic
    Try Rick Butler. He got a shock from me and it had the air line. As I recall he was not going to use the line. Put a progressive spring on the shock for a buddy. Bet he would be reasonable on the line. JB
  18. lonestarmedic
    Might as well add mine to the list. I guess I am the odd man out. My first street ride was a Suzuki GT380. A screaming banshee with a Kerker header and a 2 stroke six speed. Sounded like a supersize chainsaw. JB
  19. lonestarmedic
    So, I unpacked my new mufflers and began to inspect them. Well this set is good. Only took from original order date (06-05-2008) until now for MAC to get me a set that weren't rusted or mis-made. Had one set with the right over 3 inches longer than the left. Here are pictures of the mufflers before mounting. We can put this someplac on the site for reference. I will also take pictures when they are mounted.
  20. lonestarmedic
    I have always used S-L-P-R. I set for the corner by slowing down and choosing my angle of entry to hit the apex of the curve correctly. I look through the curve as much as possible to judge conditions at the same time. Then I press the handlebar on the inside of the curve a bit down and forward. This sets the countersteer. When I hit the apex of my arc I then roll on the throttle and use centrifugal force to set the suspension into the pavement as I sweep out of the curve. Speed through a corner actually helps to incress the friction on the pavement. In fact, I find that if I happen to hit a corner a bit too fast, I can press down and roll the throttle to sweep on through. One of the biggest mistakes a novice can make is to come upright and brake during a curve. Unless you run the ragged edge of traction around a curve, you can counter your instinct to brake and lean over a bit more. I agree with Don, the throttle is your friend. I also use my rear brake more in setting for corners. I have always termed it as "trailing the brake" This avoids the weight transfer that the front brakes can cause. Now, I have also de-linked my brakes as it tends to help my riding style. Of course this information comes from a guy that raced dirt track cars and used to swing the rear end out and "back" into a corner. Your peg-scraping may vary. I just realized that I do indeed use S-L-R-P when I enter a curve less than about 45 degrees. JB
  21. lonestarmedic
    We have been shopping for a rural haven. This just made it a priority. My new plan includes car alarms, a fence, house security system and my 3 S plan: Smith and Wesson, Sturm Ruger, and Sig Sauer. This will be augmented my old friends Para-Ordnance and Mr. Mossburg. Supervising the security is my grandfather's old Savage 311 double barrel 12 gauge. The truck is back in one piece now and looks as if mothing happened. However, I find myself jumping at every noise at night. I originally came from a small town in Ohio and was used to a total lack of locks and problems. Coming to San Antonio I did lock my vehicles and house. Guess that isn't enough with today's economy. JB Who has become a disciple of Boomer and a believer of peace through superior firepower. (And big dogs and alarms)
  22. lonestarmedic
    First, decide what parts are needed for the job. Such as the electronic climate controle module for an Expedition. Next, check the dealer pricing. List is $713.00 and discount on-line is about $553.00. Local junkyards want about $110-150. All of this is way too expensive. So, wait until about 2AM and go to Lonestarmedics house. Pop out the door lock on his Expedition and tear his controller out and just chop the wires and vaccum tubes. Yep, believe it or not my truck was broken into for that purpose alone!!! I had to go get a used unit and have them chop the harness out of the wrecked vehicle. Then spice the wiring, run a new set of vaccum tubes and replace fuse. Ordered a lock cylinder and need to get it keyed. I alway thought this neighborhood was decent. I guess too decent since we have the right vehicles. I have anti-theft but no screaming siren. Going to fix that. We have wanted to move and have been waiting for a short sale. Now we just want to get out of town. Thanks for reading, just needed to vent. We need property with about 150 yards clear around the edges. Should be able to lead a robber on foot with a .308 with that!!!!! Yes, comprehensive deductible $500.00 and the repair was under $$200.00 New dash harness, controller, and labor almost $3000.00. JB
  23. lonestarmedic
    Squeeze- What do you need accomplished? I could help out from here in the USA. I don't have a lot of spare time but would serve as a dispersion point etc. JB
  24. lonestarmedic
    Hey Jack- It would have been 4 sets but 1 set is to finally replace my defective set from last year!!! They called today and told me that they are on the way and I can return the others with a call tag. To summarize my saga: The first set arrived at the end of 2008 with pre-rusted chrome because the pipes were wrapped in the plastic while still wet with the salt bath from the chroming process. The second set arrived in January of 2009 and the left pipe was 3 inches longer the right! Been waiting for the promised replacements since then. According to MAC, the third set is equal in length, nice chrome, and inspected before shipping. Yahoo!!! JB
  25. lonestarmedic
    Hey Squid- I own a dad-gum 18 foot u-haul with a 6.9 diesel and a class 3 hitch on the back. Runs great, has AC that is cold and has current plates and insurance on it. Used it to move from Ohio to Texas. Three round trips. Last trip was 17,000lbs with the tandem trailer on the back. It even has the rear ramp yet. I can post pictures later. Looks a bit rough on the paint but even has reclining buckets from an 88 Ramcharger and a CD player. A 1st Gen cross-ties in it pretty good. JB
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