lonestarmedic

I tried 4 of them. Still need a bunch of items to complete the job. 4 large rubber well plugs 4 small rubber well plugs 4 O-rings for the center brass tube 4 0-rings for diaphragm covers Main jets can easily be cleaned out. The problem jet is the pilot jet. And it is in there. I replaced all the parts in the kits plus what I listed above. And also the air cut-off valves. Had about $275.00 in parts. The kit is pretty good. And you can get the rubber plugs from Siriuscon. I got mine from Yamaha as they were out of stock in Canada. So cannot vouch for the quality of the well plugs. Some V-max folks say the diaphragm needle and center brass tube is questionable in the Keyster kit. Seemed ok to me when I checked with a micrometer. JB

If it is cheap enough get the entire engine, intake, carbs, and the ignition system. Including the electronics box. If not for you, it makes excellent trading material.

I read that part in a review. A double pole toggle should do the trick. I am not to worried about the seek and scan either. So the buttons on the unit should be fine. As I have rear speakers, I will use the main output to the 4 speakers. Then the pre-amp output to the intercom. I will be keeping the C.B. radio and pitching everything else. I obtained a Starcom digital system. Very flexible on the inputs. Can even hook up 2 cell phones and send them to separate helmets. Going to be quite a project.

I set my Ignitech at 8300. Seems to be a good compromise. I did modify my curve slightly at that point. Lowered the vacuum advance to 50 degrees and worked the table down from there. Did not have any problems. But felt at 8000 RPM that I was dancing on the edge!

Very interesting modification. I am considering the same thing. Radio is dead. Tried new micro switches and came to the conclusion that the tuner crapped out. I am considering putting in a new intercom system in addition. But, this is pretty viable. It keeps the original system and the controls. I would guess the only thing lost would be the seek and scan remote buttons on my 1986.

Your problem seems different than mine. The lag in throttle response might be more carburetor related.

My vacuum reservoir evened out the pulsations of the MAP sensor. It did not help my throttle response up or down. It is keeping the advance steadier at idle. And has reduced RPM fluctuations at idle. I could see the TCI adding advance at an idle due to the pulses.

Frankd- no seals on my Carbtune. Just brass bushing at the bottom of the tubes. Checked hoses and they are good. Top rubber piece on carbtune seems good. Only way to tell is pull the rod, plug bottom of tube, and apply vacuum. If there are seals between the brass and the moveable rod, they are gone!!

Thinking of extra cruise control pump I have and a bleeder valve. Adjust it using a vacuum gauge.

Frankd- Tried that and it does not hold steady enough. You pull up with the Mightyvac and have to keep pumping it to hold the rod up. Almost needs a variable vacuum source that is continuous. Maybe get them lined up so I can see both in same field of vision.

Exact same problem here. Hoses clean and restrictors are correct. Carbtune 2 about 7 years old. Have cleaned and polished rods. Cleaned the brass bushings also. I used 4/0 steel wool very lightly and some WD40. No change. Rods at the bottom of the unit and sometimes barely move. Hooked to a Mightyvac and can make them move. Made a manifold and joined the hoses. Hooked to the Vac-seal unit in the kitchen. Rods go up but not equal. Can tap the unit and make them change. I noticed with the mightyvac I needed a very constant strong vacuum to keep the rod up on the scale. Honestly I am ready to blame the carbtune. Carbs are rebuilt. New Coasting enrichment diaphragms. All new O-rings etc. Checked airbox and carb boots. All good. Removed runners to head and inspected. Look to be good. New O-rings installed. Checked the little vacuum ports and made sure tight. Re-shimmed valvetrain. Made a way to shoot propane around the intake. hose and straw connected to a bernzomatic torch. Sprayed around all intake. Used the straw to concentrate it around the throttle shafts checking the end seals. All steady and no RPM rise. I synced the throttles using a piece of 30 gauge wire between the throttle plate and wall. Old bench method. Good but not perfect. Idle is at 1050 or so. Pulls strong in all ranges. Fuel mileage has been 33-35mog 2 up and highway speeds. So over 425lbs of people. Will be watching this thread with interest. Gotta be a correlation.

frankd- I cannot get 41-43 mpg 2 up with 450 lbs of people. Right now due to playing with the Ignitech I am set rich pn the needles. I have a regular plastic washer AND a metal washer below the e-clip. Rich setting as I play with the advance curves. Avoiding detonation damage and lean/hot condition. Will be setting back leaner soon. With regular TCI running one up at 70mph I got 43mpg with the needles leaned out.

I used the front lines and divider block from a Vmax. Then bought 1 new line from master to block. Made an adapter plate for front fork. Block to playe then playe to fork as bolt patterns different. Removed the extra line to the front from the rear. Gutted proportioner block. Left rear line normal spot. Then plugged the front port. I used a rear master cylinder inspection\fill port plug. Right thread and shoulder for a copper washer.

Ok, you are pushing an 860 pound bike with 560 lbs of passenger amd rider. Speed is between 80 and 100 miles per hour. That is a lot of weight and running pretty fast to ask for great fuel mileage. I would say 26 mpg as stated earlier is not that far off.

I ran a second tank down and got 34.8 mpg running 2 up at 65 to 70 mph. Checked temperaturw gauge tonight. Ambient temperature of 85 F. At 65 on highway needle is below horizontal by about 3 needle widths. Looks to be about right. Had to flog the bike hard to get it above that halfway area.

Whether IAP or TPS is chosen the action is the same when using a vacuum sensor. It is reading voltage. And that voltage in a given rpm is assigned an advance value. You set the advance value on the TAB section.

Kisa- 11km/litre is not very good for one up and no passenger. Unless you are riding very fast and aggressively. Then you can see that kind of mileage. As to the heat, I did check some of my past records on the bike and I do see that it has a small increase in temperature. I will not be changing my chart for a week or so. This chart is working well for me. I want to check the mileage without a passenger.

Pics of lift out section of side wings. I put 2 pieces of angle iron at each end of the section. Making a "T" shape. One piece supports the stationary board and the other the lift section.

1 foot pieces of angle iron. Bolt or weld to the lift. 5\4 × 6" board. Made removeable section for the foot pedal. Wheel chock is a U.S.General.

Try this on the table lift.

Kisa- Other than temperature how is the throttle response? My temperature seems to be in the middle of the gauge. We were two up and riding fairly agressively. We averaged 33 miles per gallon.

stanG - I like your brackets. Simple and neat. As I run the Rigid Duallys we have the same lighting system. Mine inspires a lot of confidence in the dark backroads.

And a 20 degree centigrade increase is a 70 degree farenheit increase. Now if the thermostat opens at 200 F. then you are saying the engine is operating at 270 F. The cooling fan turns on at 230 F. I would think the engine was severely overheating at the temperature you are indicating.

Kisa- My chart is fairly agressive. It is possible that you are experiencing a detonation problem depending on the octane of your fuel. Try dropping the curve down a bit. My curve has more advance in the part throttle area. I have another chart that I developed that is less aggressive. When I have a chance I will load several different versions and check the temperature.

Hmm, looks like I need to get the above listed version. What i have is older. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Tapatalk