Lug Nut

Yep.....forb the cost of a can of spraybpaint and very little effort they look nice!

I painted mine black today in case I need to put them back on due to wind turbulence. They look nice in gloss black...

He is asking $2000 I will try for cheaper....39k miles. .I would be happy around $1500 I think

I have a 2002 RSV Midnight, came from a 2002 Roadstar...looking at picking up ab1996 Royal Star Tour Classic. I know it's a 1300 V4 but what are the main differences mechanically between it an my 02 RSV? It has 40k miles and in good shape....whatbis a fair price and what is a "steal"?

I will definitely try it UT at 80-90 mph to see the difference. Worst case scenario I can tint the plastic and put it back on.

Looking at a 1998 Royal Star online.....white with 40k miles. What's it worth? Any issues to look for?

I wanted to smooth out the look of my RSV and make it a touch more modern/sleek. I removed the antennas and mounts from the rear. Removed the clear plastic lowers under the fairings and the clear wind deflectors under the ligjt bar. Removed the visors from all the front lights/turn signals and replaced the passing lights with smooth GE Halogen lights and replaced headlight and tailight bulbs with Sylvania Ultra. Really like the look so far. I was wondering how much difference in wind buffeting to experience with the deflectors removed. Waiting on clutch master cylinder rebuild kit so I can ride.....

Got the fairing split and installed antenna inside fairing for radio and removed headlight visor and put in new halogen headlight bulb. Very easy to split the fairing, don't know why ibthought it was going to be a pain.

If the new Master doesn't do it thn I will try the reverse bleeding! Anxious to try out this new clutch.....

02 RSV 15k miles. Bought the bike and shortly after flushed brakes and clutch and used Prestone DOT 4 synthetic brake fluid. Put rubber band on clutch lever over night and everything worked great. Noticed clutch MUCH harder to bleed than brakes. Also installed speedy bleeders at all locations. After rejetting carbs (Ivans jet kit, K&N air filters, Barons 4-2-4 Nasty Boys exhaust) and riding hard, noticed clutch slip in 3rd and 4th. Ordered SkyDocs full spring and clutch kit. Figured with increased power clutch slip was normal for this bike. While I was waiting for kit, I rode hard again and noticed slip again AND then the clutch lever got light/spongy. Put rubber band on it again and next day was fine. Rode 800 miles round trip and bike worked well but shifting wasn't easy and clutch got lighter as the trip went on. . Next couple rides the clutch lever was squeaky and light. Used PB Blaster on lever and was not squeaky. Last ride BARELY got bike home from having almost no clutch lever. Got SkyDocs kit installed (was anal about following directions, soaked discs for days in fresh oil, sanded steel plates with 320 grit to get cross hatch finish, used extra oil on everything on reassambly, etc). Buttoned it all up and went to start and had no clutch lever at all. So, skydoc_17 and others suggested slave cylinder was possibly bad. Noticed a few small drips of brake fluid under bike in general vanity of slave. So, ordered new OEM slave cylinder and installed. Bled fluid again and could not get air bubbles out of the line (unlike a month previous when I had great lever after difficult bleeding). Tried letting it sit with cap off master and rubber band on brake lever....tried squeezing 200 times slowly....could see small air bubble from smaller of two holes in bottom of master cylinder. Noticed the squeak in the lever was back and does NOT go away with lubricating this time. It is from the lever and not the black plunger thingy. So, fresh clutch and spring, fresh slave cylinder, fresh Mobil 1 synthetic and K&N filter, hours on trying to bleed system and no clutch. I ordered a rebuild kit for Master as well as an entire new OEM master as well. Will swap master and see if that works and if it does I will rebuild my original one to have as a spare. I tapped on banjo bolts to get air out etc....everything but reverse bleeding. Mechanic friend said to get a new master because air is being introduced into the system from someplace. Any other ideas? If the new Master doesn't work and I can't bleed it correctly what would I look at next (no visible leaks)?

Very cool and Tha ks for the offer. I just read the write up and it doesn't look bad at all....I'll probably do it tonight and remove the visor and leave the fairing open until I get my new light bulb as well....still waiting on clutch slave cylinder Soni can try out my new upgraded clutch...

Northeast sode....Dupont and Auburn roads

I removed the visors from my passing lights and front turn signals....really like the smooth look. Also installed GE halogen passing lights and they are smooth and bot the "waffle" texture of the stock ones....and much brighter. I am replacing the headlight bulb and tail light bulb as well with Silverstar Ultras when they arrive...... So....how can I remove the headlight visor easily.....please don't say I have to split the fairing to do this! Thanks

To clarify...if I were to do the Barons risers only, would I need longer cables?

I got 31-35 mpg on my 800 mile trip this weekend....never less than 80 mph sometimes 90+.... I have K&N filters, Barons exhaust, and Ivans Jet kit Mayne it all improves gas mileage Lugnut just needs to roll fast and hard...lol

Thanks for all the responses....I'll loo for some 7616 bulbs and replace all of them....

Any way to bypass this?

Anyone know the part number for passing lights on a 2002 RSV (the ones on the lightbar)? I replaced the stock bulb on my Roadstar with a Slivers tar Ultra and it was a noticeable improvement. I found the numbers for silverstar ultra for headlight and brake light allready. Also, to replace the headlight bulb do you just remove from fairing by taking out the lower bolt under the headlight or do you have to split the fairing? Thanks

That is a good looking and cheap option....win win. Lol......I hated the idea of spending $1200+ on an aftermarket wheel and rotor.

Thinking of getting a nicer looking front wheel. What some good options and I would probably stay with the stock size......

I bought my RSV recently with 14k miles....flushed brake and clutch fluid out and replaced with Prestone DOT 4 synthetic....much better feel to brakes and clutch. Maybe do this since it's easy and practically free. As far as oil...any motorcycle 4T for this type V4 engine that is full synthetic should be fine.

Can the front end of a RSV be lowered with different/progressive fork sprigs? I would like it a bit lower and would rather do new fork oil and seals and better springs than shoving the forks up into the triple tree.

Looking at a 1984 gold Venture.....58k miles.....service records....valves adjusted 40k....brand new tires....great shape. What's a good deal on this bike?

Thanks for the info....I was afraid of interference with the stuff around the bars.

I put Barons pull back DT risers on my Roadstar and liked how they helped with bar position (just pull back nonadfed height). Does anyone make pull back risers like these for the RSV. I don't want to mess with replacing cables or anything like that.