VerntureVet

Just FYI I had to install a magnet in my brake rotor with a reed pickup for the speedo so I put on a 2nd reed for the cruise. It didn't like the 1:1 feedback so I had to make a little 2:1 logic so the cruise controller didn't have fits.

Whats your thought on these Vacuum Pulse Fuel Pumps? 14 liters (~3.69 gallons) per hour flow rate. You know me and my never ending quest to have as little electrical load or anything not necessary electrical for that matter on my bike. Why? I have the bike up on the stand doing the rewire after decowling it. I wired up the ignition system turn on the key and flipped the stop switch to on. At first I was happy to hear the fuel pump click in. Then the oh SHIP moment came. Fuel spilling out like a fountain from the pump. Guess the side of the pump housing decided it had enough and cracked. I was able to patch it up with some JB WetWeld so I can press on with the rewire. but b4 I head out on the road again I am going to need a new pump.

I see your point Randy and I'm sure its always worked. More than 1 way to skin a cat. Maybe Pops being an engineer jaded his desire to use thickened oil (grease) in a not ideal application. Grease is designed to thin out from friction of bearing surfaces to provide 360deg lubrication. That is why it is graded for stiffness and temp. As far as WD-40 not lasting long enough it only takes @ normal road speeds one trip to the carry out to push Lucus up the cable. WD-40 is nothing more in my tool box than a penetrate and cleaner. I imagine if you pack enough grease into something it will work. I would be more inclined to use graphite paste myself over grease. Whatever way you go clean it all up good choose your weapon of choice and drive in peace.

Grease is designed to work when it gets warm enough to melt. It will then do its job and cool and lube the bearing. This is why high speed industrial motor bearings are only packed 2/3 full. Ask and good electric motor repair house why you should not over grease bearings and you will get the same story. IMO Grease is not the way to go. The speedo cable friction will not get warm enough to let grease get liquid enough to do its job. Ever since I was a teen working on Hot Rods with Pops there has always only been 1 way per him to take care of a speedo cable. 50% Lucas 50% slick 50. The advanced lubrication of the slick 50 with the stick and climb of the Lucas. To teach me Pops took a speedo cable cleaned it with WD-40 of all the grease. Lubed it up with his magic mixture short about 6 in from the speedo and spun it with a drill. The mix will climb its way UP the cable @ higher speeds and lube the speedo bearings all on its own but you have to get all the nasty grease off. I use this same mix in an oil lube can over any other lube on everything from squeaky door hinges to the chains on the kids bikes. WD-40 is a nice deruster and cleaner. Grease is great for a sealed place that gets warm enough. Stick and Slick is good for low temp lubrication.

I think this is the size of the steering bearings? UPPER BEARING DIMENSIONS: Inside Diameter: 25mm/.99 in. Outside Diameter: 47mm/1.85 in. Width: 15mm/.91 in. LOWER BEARING DIMENSIONS: Inside Diameter: 30mm Outside Diameter: 55mm Width: 18mm Most springier front ends have 1in(25.4mm) tubes so maybe polish off ~0.015748 from the tube and go with the 25mm ID top and bottom? Something like this may work for the rear shock But im not looking to spend $400 on just a rear shock........

I got the Progressive springs in the front forks now. What are my options for ditching the air piston on the rear now? CLASS is nice and all but with all my hacking @ the Yammy I don't even use it. Most of the time I set it to low/no air. I actually would not mind lowing the rear an inch or so along with the front forks. Also if anyone happens to know the specs on the steering bearing, tube size, length.... that would save me from taking it off to measure. I was considering putting on a springer front end this winter and thought maybe I could size the bearings to make it an easy swap out.

Gorilla quick epoxy and a couple welding rods. Just a touch on the end of a couple rods push it in onto the key and wait a couple hours. Pull very slow. Just take warning too much epoxy and....... I have pulled this off many times on broken keys but again be warned I did put too much on one time and glues the key in.

Mix 50% Lucas and 50% slick 50 Pull the cable give it a thin coat upto about 6 in from the speedo. Over time the lube will works its way UP and lube the bushing and drum so don't go over board. You can hit the back side of the speedo cable connector with a quick shot of WD-40 it will clean any old crud and lube it long enough for the 50/50 to work its way up and do the job for you.

Whats the point if you are traveling 30 miles and the speed limit is 65mph. Driving +10 @ 75mph saves you all of about 3.5 minutes. that can be canceled out by just hitting 1 stop light. it works the other way also 55 in a 65 you only loose a few minutes. I travel the interstate a lot from Toledo to Bowling Green and I get passed a lot by rockets and cars with cruise set 2 the speed limit. I can't count the # of times I get passes by someone and pull up 1-2 cars behind them @ the stop light on the exit 10 miles after I got passed. Or better yet seeing them up the road getting a ticket. Not worth a few minutes IMO. Do I play on my bike? Sure I do but its always on a back road in the country with no lines or signs.

Didn't we just have a little talk about 2 wrongs don't make a right when I posted about IDIOT drivers? I took a lot away from that thread about keeping my cool. Someone almost killing me don't give me the right to run them down and woop there azz. In the same respect Getting passed by someone in a double yellow zone don't give him the right to cause harm to them. Listen real good to the audio the 1st thing the old dude says is he shouldn't be passing in a double yellow. Only after he was told there was a video he starts claiming he got stung by a wasp. Far be it for me to Judge or make a comment of my opinion. It's in the hands of the courts now. The issue is more who is liable as the incident happened while the bike rider was preforming an illegal pass. HOWEVER if the car driver is judged to have done it intentionally he is ripe for a civil suite @ the least. Here is an example that happened to a good friend of mine. My friend Jason ran a red light and was T-Boned by a car that was in the right of way. By all means Jason was @ fault and was sited. His insurance was the one that had to settle the claim. Another driver behind the car that hit Jason happened to have a dash cam and the video was turned over to the police and became part of evidence to the accident. Out of curiosity Jason obtained a copy of the video almost a month after the accident and the claims had been settled. You can clearly see in the video the other driver started to move when the light turned green. Noticing Jason's car was not going to stop he braked jolting to a stop. Now who knows what was going threw the other drivers head but he then gunned it even breaking traction on his tires and hit Jason. J took the video to a lawyer and after viewing it they took it to a civil court trial. The civil trial ruled malicious intent on the part of the other driver and awarded J damages enough to cover his insurance rate jack, personal damages, and the cost of damages to his car that got awarded to the insurance company. Because it was a civil matter the other guy never paid and the court only said you can sue him for non payment or maybe a garnishment @ his own cost. Point is we live in a messed up time and even in this case unless someone got killed no one is going to jail most likely and even if a civil trial awards them something don't mean someone is going to pay. After all no one got the video of the wasp stinging the old man so its his word Vs the camera.

What I was trying to do was make a two 1.5in pipe inlets that stick out the side of the bike and point forward scooping air into a MUCH slimmer airbox that I made from copper plate. I used 2 of the round 2in filters on the inside of the box and then mounted that onto the new box I made. for the venturis I just used a copper 90s and pointed them all backwards where the air comes in. I spent the better part of 2 weeks with fans and a smoke streamer getting the flow right. Needless to say I was disappointed it made the carbs have fits. I never even thought to consider the restriction. Thanks

You didn't have issues with the carbs tripping out? Every time I try to take off even just my Airbox cover my carbs trow fits.

@zagger What are you using for intakes stacks?

ALL of that is in my Shed. you need everything south of the uppers with the turn signals in them?

It's OK djh3 if anything this is my therapy session for venting this in a constructive way Vs running someone down :-P