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Everything posted by Flyinfool
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87 stator/crank cover stripped screw
Flyinfool replied to Max's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
If there is still some drill bit or screw left in the hole it has to come out before welding. Molten aluminum and molten steel do not play well together. The welding arc will melt all metals. Best way to clean it out without further damage is to set it up in a mill and plunge the hole with a center cutting solid carbide end mill, go very slow so that you do not break off the carbide end mill, carbide is real hard to get out of the hole. -
Even though you do not specifically mention it, I assume that you do 1st gen seats also?
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Ignitek gen 1
Flyinfool replied to CaseyJ955's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
You might want to track down @dingy on the V-Max forum. He was the one that was selling them here and has the needed info. -
87 stator/crank cover stripped screw
Flyinfool replied to Max's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
If you have access to TIG welding, that is the very best option. Face drill and tap and you are good as new. Just watch the heat so you do not get an ugly heat spot on the other side. Next choice would be a Helicoil, but it looks like you may already have opened the hole up to far for that. In this application I would not trust JB Weld. If that screw fails it can be very expensive. -
Might have had a lot better luck backing out the shoveled part of the driveway.
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Starter Clutch Mod
Flyinfool replied to Dano's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
You had the first one done and I had the second one done. Mine has also been flawless. -
You are aware that at this time, of the 50 states, there is only ONE that does not have SNOW on the ground at the moment. That one is Florida. But theirs is coming.............
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Bonehead move time....Clutch MC
Flyinfool replied to videoarizona's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Sure sounds like you had fun today. -
The resistors are physically pretty big. they have to be to get enough surface area to dissipate the heat that they will generate. Yes they can get quite warm in use, bear that in mind when you mount them. Your two 6 ohm resistors hooked up one front and one back are equal to the one 3 ohm resistor that I used on mine. It actually does not matter where in the circuit you connect them. you could put them both right next to each other if that is easier. The reason all of the LED makers use one per bulb is so that if you are only replacing 1 bulb it will be the correct resistor. They are just doing it the easiest way for a non electrical person to understand. That is just not the easiest way to accomplish the job. Either way is electrically correct. Now I prolly just made it confusing..........................
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One can never be certain, he could be an alien species and representing the Universe, .....................
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You mean other than a string of the 3rd, 20th, 6th, and 23rd letters of the alphabet? Otherly known as Chasing The Front Wheel. This is Cowpucs specialty. he often has no idea where he is going, just keeps following the front wheel and has some wonderful adventures.
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Plenty of room, just no water............ and way to
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Ya what Cowpuc said. do your email thru someone other than you internet provider. That makes it easy to switch providers at will and you never have to remember all of the places that you used that email. There are a lot of "FREE" email providers that are not associated with any internet service provider. The free ones will bombard you with advertising and the paid ones will not, choice is yours.
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Well this thread has not helped because you are right, laughing hurts..............ouch! I get my water from Lake Michigan, this lake has only froze over twice in my life that I know of. So my water supply seldom goes away........
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Turn the heat on???? That aint even cold enough to close the bedroom windows...........
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There are some flashers that are made specifically for LED, those are the ones that may burn up if used with the higher current draw of incandescent. There is noting you can do in the flasher that will burn up the LEDs. All they know is that they are getting 12-14 volts and can not tell nore care where the power comes from. You can mix and match incandescent and LED. Once upon a time I was working on a LED friendly flasher that would retain the stock features of the bike like the self canceling, I never finished that project because I got my bike working without it. The fast flashing does not look like them going on solid and bright If yours are going full bright with no flashing then you may have some other issue.
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HEY! I gots a big 4X4 truck............................... The only time I ever been in the ditch (not counting ditch runs on purpose) was when a semi crossed over the center line to pass a slower car and the ditch looked a lot softer than the front of that semi.
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Thanks Boss You da man.
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No problem, when I find missing stuff I just make it newer and better and add more power.....................
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I know for sure there were pics in #16 , #19 , #21 , #30 , I do not remember the rest.
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Here is another how to thread that I seem to have lost the original photos for. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?77042-MORE-lights Thanks
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Using the correct LEDs is a big part of getting it to work. 1. The LED color needs to be the color of the lens and/or the needed color output. In other words a yellow LED for the turn signals. a red LED for the brake / tail lights. 2. There are some cheap LEDs that claim to be 1157 replacements but will not work in our application. I received a set for testing from another member that could not get them to work. After a bit of testing I determined that our turn signals ground the hot lead when the turn signal is in the off part of the flash. The LEDs were wired internally so that it would end up shorting the running lights to ground during the signal off cycle. I also noticed that the cheap LEDs were less than half the brightness of the good ones. I replaced all of the lights except headlights and fog lights (those are all HID) with LEDs all from http://www.SuperBrightLEDs.com. I could not be happier with the end result. I did do a write up on what I did, I will find that thread for you.