Flyinfool

Your first gen does not have a distributor so no rotor to put a bug on. The 1st gen crank sensors are triggered by the magnets in the flywheel which is on the crankshaft. The TCI has no clue where the engine is without the crank sensor. Yes there are some engines that have a distributor and still pick up the engine location from there, but it is not as accurate as the crank. The distributor has slop in the timing chain, then more slop in the gear mesh between the cam and the distributor. ALL engines that have a coil pack and no distributor have to have 1 or more crank sensors.

I am one of those with a Venture Standard, my bike (and some will say the owner) never had CLASS, just a front and rear Schrader valve to set the pressure with a small hand pump that I keep in the trunk. The CLASS system is also well know to have electrical and air leak issues due to age, You are actually better off without all the extra weight and complexity.

The 25 MPG could be that you are running on 3 cylinders, these bikes run very smooth on 3 cyl. There have been new owners that went years before they found out that they never had 4 cyl running. If a dead cylinder is ignition related then the new ignition and COP will / should fix it. Why spend a lot of time and possibly money trouble shooting something that you are going to replace anyhow. It is also common to get reduced MPG for a while after getting it to run correctly because you tend to USE all the new found power for a while. I can not help you on jetting, that falls under blue smoke and mirrors for me. When my carbs die I may just splurge and convert to EFI.

I had a crank sensor issue on my 96, the wire harness was not routed properly from the factory and the crank sensor wires were just barely touching the dampener. Once it wore thru the insulation then all kinds of weird things happened as it intermittently touched various wires. Took a while to figure that one out to. It just refused to mess up when connected to equipment. Although mine never completely killed the engine, just a quick cough spit and sputter then fine for another week. I sure hope this is the end of your problems, I think you have used up your quota for this trip. Crank sensors have been around since they got rid of points. Something has to tell the computer where the engine is so that it knows when to fire the plugs, even your 1st gen has a pair of crank sensors.

I had a crank sensor issue on my 96, the wire harness was not routed properly from the factory and the crank sensor wires were just barely touching the dampener. Once it wore thru the insulation then all kinds of weird things happened as it intermittently touched various wires. Took a while to figure that one out to. It just refused to mess up when connected to equipment. Although mine never completely killed the engine, just a quick cough spit and sputter then fine for another week. I sure hope this is the end of your problems, I think you have used up your quota for this trip.

If once the RPM gets up it has full power and goes, then fuel delivery to the carbs is not the issue. If it was the pump, filter or a clogged line it would not go fine at high RPM. Ignition issues do not usually pick a mid RPM band to have issues with. It will usually not idle well or fall down at the top end. The only thing left is dirty carbs. You might get lucky with a heavy dose of Seafoam, or Berrymans if it is really bad, in the tank and then run it where it does not like to run to force it to pull the cleaner thru the dirty circuits, then let it sit for a few hours. keep doing this routine to see if it starts to clean up, the only other option is to tear down the carbs and clean them good.

YEA Thanks for doing this. But really we din not meant to break your printer..................... Put it out on the deck and Ill see if we can give it a burial...........

At least Boston is now having fun digging out.

Snyper, I may just have to steal that idea too. I never even thought about the dancing slides. I was just trying to think of things that move. I was going to do the water pump, the clutch, the middle gear cover and the stator cover. I was thinking of painting a swirl onto things like the flywheel or the end of the shaft under the middle gear cover since you would never be able to tell if they are spinning by looking at them. I am betting it would not be to hard to make clear plastic carb covers. :mo money: :mo money: I was even thinking of making the windows into infinity mirrors that you can still see thru. But then I may be forced to get that pretty purple Barnett Clutch spring...................... I know there is someone that makes the water pump and clutch covers for the V-max with windows, but they are uber expensive and painted black to match the V-max. I just need to do some research to find out if I can use the covers from my '85 parts engine on my '88, And now I have to check to see if I even have a set of carb covers.

Freeze it over, or try to fill it with ?

I had that same clear V8 model when I was a kid. Yea it was 50ish years ago. In the other hand, I have been debating replacing all 4 side covers on my 1st gen, with clear windows and have LEDs inside of the engine to illuminate it.

Glad they caught the shooter quickly before you felt you had to do something. Prayers up for all of your family.

Sometimes a nonsensical unwinnable argument can be fun for for the sake of it. Since there can be no solid proof to either side it can be a lot like arguing over religion, politics, or oil and tires.

I get my lined heat shrink from McMaster Carr and /or Heatshrink.com. Depending on where you get it some places call it Adhesive Lined, or Dual wall. A proper crimp is more reliable than soldered, BUT, and it is a big BUT, You have to use the proper tool. The proper tool is not the one you get at the hardware or auto parts store. The proper tool will cost you $70+ each, I say each because you will need one for each size of terminal. I have the tools and use the crimp terminals that have the sealing adhesive built into them. In 40 years I have never had one of my crimps fail. So for most people, soldering using only Rosin for flux, then cleaning the joint, and using the dual wall heatshrink is the best way to go.

cowpuc, Freebird may be able to get you a better quality VR logo than trying to enlarge the tiny one from the top of the page. I do have a better resolution logo but it is black and white and is an older version that does not have the globe background.

I don't know. If the guy in the Camry did have a gun, like he said he did, that could likely make him more inclined to use it.

Not going out, just taking a short break to reload...................

Take your volt meter and measure the battery voltage at its terminals, then connect the red lead to the pos terminal on the starter and the black lead to the housing of the starter. Hit the start button and you should see just a bit less than the battery voltage you just measured at the starter. this will tell you if everything in the electrical path is working. If you see full battery voltage at the starter then the starter has an internal issue, If the voltage is a lot lower than battery voltage then there is either a bad connection somewhere or the solenoid is not making contact. Do these checks first and then we can begin to narrow down the actual problem. When you are checking the terminals, there is the positive at the battery, follow that wire to the solenoid terminal, then the other big wire from the solenoid to the terminal on the starter. On the negative side there is the battery terminal and where the other end of that wire is attached to the engine block. There is also the connection of where the starter is bolted to the engine can get corroded and block power. These are all free to check. No not just look at it and think it looks clean, you have to actually take it apart and check, it is not unheard of for all of the outside to look perfect and the corrosion is hiding in between the mating surfaces. Also look at where the wire is crimped into the terminal, that can corrode also.

The brown wire is the main power to everything that is on the "SIGNAL" fuse when the key is on. This is a lot of stuff. The pink wire goes from the horns to the horn switch and the switch provides the ground for the horns. If you only unplugged one of the horns you will still see 12V on both of the pink wires and both of the brown wires. When you press the horn button and the horn is blowing the pink wire should drop to near zero volts. If you unplug both horns, then there should be 12 v on the brown wire but nothing on the pink wire. If you press the horn button with both horns disconnected there should be no change to the nothing on the pink wire.

Well Mr Owl, I know I had a great time when we met while you were in my neck of the woods. You get back to chasing those nurses, you do know that that is the best medicine and that is why nurses wear track shoes. I sure do hope to break bread with you again somewhere.

Nice bike and welcome to the funny farm. The sluggishness might just be how you are driving it, these engines like to rev, they don't even start to make any horse power until 4,000 rpm and above. Do not be afraid of that red line, this is the same bottom end as the V-max that red lines at ~10K. When cruising I never use 5th gear below 60 MPH. I like to cruise at just under 4K, the bike likes it to. But everyone knows that red is the fastest color..................

That is just beautiful. I sure wish we had a view like that here. We are getting more rain this week.

If you go to the "Community" tab in the menu bar above this post, scroll down to "Member List" you can then sort the list by state and look at all of those in PA.

I used to give them back and say "He/She is broken, Smells bad, Fix it" then in about 15 minutes they were fun to play with again.

Also if you are not sure if an email is from Paypal, forward the email to spoof@paypal.com. Pay pal uses these to try to track down the crook and shut them down. they will also reply to you first to say that they received your forwarded email, and a little while later to tell you if it is legit or a scam. If it is a scam, then hit the SPAM button in your email so that that sender can never send you anything again. This will both delete it and make life harder for the crook, once enough people report it as spam it will get added to the spam list and no one will ever see it again.