Flyinfool

Snyper, I may just have to steal that idea too. I never even thought about the dancing slides. I was just trying to think of things that move. I was going to do the water pump, the clutch, the middle gear cover and the stator cover. I was thinking of painting a swirl onto things like the flywheel or the end of the shaft under the middle gear cover since you would never be able to tell if they are spinning by looking at them. I am betting it would not be to hard to make clear plastic carb covers. :mo money: :mo money: I was even thinking of making the windows into infinity mirrors that you can still see thru. But then I may be forced to get that pretty purple Barnett Clutch spring...................... I know there is someone that makes the water pump and clutch covers for the V-max with windows, but they are uber expensive and painted black to match the V-max. I just need to do some research to find out if I can use the covers from my '85 parts engine on my '88, And now I have to check to see if I even have a set of carb covers.

Freeze it over, or try to fill it with ?

I had that same clear V8 model when I was a kid. Yea it was 50ish years ago. In the other hand, I have been debating replacing all 4 side covers on my 1st gen, with clear windows and have LEDs inside of the engine to illuminate it.

Glad they caught the shooter quickly before you felt you had to do something. Prayers up for all of your family.

Sometimes a nonsensical unwinnable argument can be fun for for the sake of it. Since there can be no solid proof to either side it can be a lot like arguing over religion, politics, or oil and tires.

I get my lined heat shrink from McMaster Carr and /or Heatshrink.com. Depending on where you get it some places call it Adhesive Lined, or Dual wall. A proper crimp is more reliable than soldered, BUT, and it is a big BUT, You have to use the proper tool. The proper tool is not the one you get at the hardware or auto parts store. The proper tool will cost you $70+ each, I say each because you will need one for each size of terminal. I have the tools and use the crimp terminals that have the sealing adhesive built into them. In 40 years I have never had one of my crimps fail. So for most people, soldering using only Rosin for flux, then cleaning the joint, and using the dual wall heatshrink is the best way to go.

cowpuc, Freebird may be able to get you a better quality VR logo than trying to enlarge the tiny one from the top of the page. I do have a better resolution logo but it is black and white and is an older version that does not have the globe background.

I don't know. If the guy in the Camry did have a gun, like he said he did, that could likely make him more inclined to use it.

Not going out, just taking a short break to reload...................

Take your volt meter and measure the battery voltage at its terminals, then connect the red lead to the pos terminal on the starter and the black lead to the housing of the starter. Hit the start button and you should see just a bit less than the battery voltage you just measured at the starter. this will tell you if everything in the electrical path is working. If you see full battery voltage at the starter then the starter has an internal issue, If the voltage is a lot lower than battery voltage then there is either a bad connection somewhere or the solenoid is not making contact. Do these checks first and then we can begin to narrow down the actual problem. When you are checking the terminals, there is the positive at the battery, follow that wire to the solenoid terminal, then the other big wire from the solenoid to the terminal on the starter. On the negative side there is the battery terminal and where the other end of that wire is attached to the engine block. There is also the connection of where the starter is bolted to the engine can get corroded and block power. These are all free to check. No not just look at it and think it looks clean, you have to actually take it apart and check, it is not unheard of for all of the outside to look perfect and the corrosion is hiding in between the mating surfaces. Also look at where the wire is crimped into the terminal, that can corrode also.

The brown wire is the main power to everything that is on the "SIGNAL" fuse when the key is on. This is a lot of stuff. The pink wire goes from the horns to the horn switch and the switch provides the ground for the horns. If you only unplugged one of the horns you will still see 12V on both of the pink wires and both of the brown wires. When you press the horn button and the horn is blowing the pink wire should drop to near zero volts. If you unplug both horns, then there should be 12 v on the brown wire but nothing on the pink wire. If you press the horn button with both horns disconnected there should be no change to the nothing on the pink wire.

Well Mr Owl, I know I had a great time when we met while you were in my neck of the woods. You get back to chasing those nurses, you do know that that is the best medicine and that is why nurses wear track shoes. I sure do hope to break bread with you again somewhere.

Nice bike and welcome to the funny farm. The sluggishness might just be how you are driving it, these engines like to rev, they don't even start to make any horse power until 4,000 rpm and above. Do not be afraid of that red line, this is the same bottom end as the V-max that red lines at ~10K. When cruising I never use 5th gear below 60 MPH. I like to cruise at just under 4K, the bike likes it to. But everyone knows that red is the fastest color..................

That is just beautiful. I sure wish we had a view like that here. We are getting more rain this week.

If you go to the "Community" tab in the menu bar above this post, scroll down to "Member List" you can then sort the list by state and look at all of those in PA.

I used to give them back and say "He/She is broken, Smells bad, Fix it" then in about 15 minutes they were fun to play with again.

Also if you are not sure if an email is from Paypal, forward the email to spoof@paypal.com. Pay pal uses these to try to track down the crook and shut them down. they will also reply to you first to say that they received your forwarded email, and a little while later to tell you if it is legit or a scam. If it is a scam, then hit the SPAM button in your email so that that sender can never send you anything again. This will both delete it and make life harder for the crook, once enough people report it as spam it will get added to the spam list and no one will ever see it again.

How bad you broke?

With fuses the voltage is the maximum voltage that you can use the fuse for. so your 125V fuse gould be used only for up to 125V, the 250 will just fine at 125 because that is well below the MAX rating of 250. Where you have to watch out is if you get a fuse at most auto shops / stores. they are usually rated at 32V, these should NOT be used in a 120V piece of equipment.

Careful, he might just have a truck load of with him..................

Around here 6 more weeks of winter means an early spring. So if the groundhog sees his shadow, getting 6 more weeks of winter is a good thing. But then since he is wrong 60% of the time it means that we have a lot of winter left to go.

In that pic it looks like the pigtails are part of a cap snapped onto a standard fuse. See if they can be pulled off.

Puc the 3,000lb winch can be used for gently lowering the bike down the ramp also. Prevents the issue of the brakes not holding on the slippery metal ramp. I sure am jealous, I would love to head out on a trip like that. Not to mention all the fun you had building / rebuilding the truck for the trip.

OK lets back up a bit. IF I understood correctly, you have; Cracked the speed bleeder and the caliper did not release. Cracked the banjo at the caliper and the caliper did release. Did you try cracking the banjo at the master to see if the caliper would release? For testing purposes take the speed bleeder out and put a standard bleeder back in. Now if you crack the bleeder will the caliper release? A speed bleeder is a check valve, that check valve has a spring. That spring will allow there to be a small amount of pressure left in the caliper and may not fully release it. Once you go thru these steps you will have at least isolated it down to the caliper, the line or the master. Once you know which component has the issue, it is a lot easier to find the real problem with that component. The tiny hole we all are talking about in the master is so small that it is barely visible to the naked eye. It is only around .010 inch Dia.

Woo Hooo! Always love a good party. Will have to rattle @cowpuc cage and see if we can pry him away from Sam for a couple of hours.