Flyinfool

For Yamaha to get around it is easy they just designed the whole system to work together, they are not using an aftermarket off the shelf tach. Sometimes on a tach you can lie to it about what it is connected to. I once had a car with wasted spark ignition on a V8, I told the tach it was connected to a 4 cyl to get it to read correctly. If your tach has a selection for 2 cycle engine, use that it it will then read correct. Just have to play with what they give you till you find what works out. I often lie to various pieces of electronics to get the end result that I am after.

Unfortunatly you can not tell if the baffles are broken or about to break until you get it.

It looks more like a mix of the 2. The 84 says you should have a grey, a red/white, a black and a blue wire. The 83 says it should be 2 red/white, a blue/black and a blue/white. You have the Red/white, grey, black from the 84 and the blue/white from the 83. There is also a typo on the connector for the fuel pump relay on the 84 diagram, the connector shows 2 red/white wires, one of them should be black to match the wires going to the connector.

Well I suppose that if all the float bowls were full of water the tach would read zero because the bike would not run at all.................. So in the most technical sense the mechanics statement is true, but it is not at all relevant to your issue. His statement sounds more like a line of BS because he has no clue what the issue really is and he is trying to find out if you have a clue so that he can run up the bill with more BS. Then there is also the possibility that something got lost in the 3rd hand description of the problem.

I put my TCI in the left faring where it is nice and dry and cool.

I was able to find grommets that work at the local hardware store.

If you look at the wire diagram for an 84 then that has the right colors to be the fuel pump relay, and the grey wire from the fuel pump relay does go to coil #2 . As was determined in another thread there may have been electrical changes to the 83 mid year that are not documented in the wiring diagrams.

On the local news they have been giving warnings every day for motorists to watch out for bikes. This has become a standard part of the weather. I do not know if the weatherman is a biker. And now they are saying that we might tease the 70° mark this week.

The starter is right on the other side of the top front point of the left side cover. Circled in red. Please ignore all of the Chrome and shiny paint, this pic is Dons bike not mine....................

Happy Birthday to Skid and the Warden. But Dan, Have you ever forgotten Skids Birthday?

If the tach drops to zero with the engine running bad that is the first clue. The tach is driven from the #2 cyl primary side of the coil. So if the tach drops to zero then the #2 coil is not getting a signal to fire. That means you have electrical gremlins. All of the other issues sure points to a bad ground. It is possible that all of your issues could be a bad ground. I would start there.

FWIW Today was nice out so I went out to the garden shed and the bike was still there. The last time I even saw it was in October of 2016. I stuck in the key and had to cycle the kill switch twice to fill the carbs, pushed the start button and it fired instantly, just like it should. So after the 3 year old battery sitting in the bike outside in the Wisconsin winter for 4.5 months with no charger or maintainer, It had no problem cranking up the bike. Yes I like my good old Flooded Yuasa.

With RTV instead of a gasket I am surprised it even started. You need the gasket thickness to get proper clearance on the starter gear train. I would take a look at the gears to be sure the PO did not grind them down to stop the binding with RTV. I am not sure of the clearances but having no gasket may have been what started the contact with the stator screws.

Or is it possible that the 2 second feature was added during the 83 model year.

The Berrymans is a lot stronger solvent than Seafoam. I suppose it could do damage if you poured it in straight up and then left it sit for a long time. I use Seafoam for normal maintenance and Berrymans for a specific issue. but I do not let the Berrymans sit indefinitely. No it will not eat holes in the bike and garage floor on contact like the aliens blood. Neither is likely to dislodge a chunk of something that is stuck in the float valve. They are both used to clean deposits. For a stuck float I would use the procedure that Skydoc posted. I'll see if I can find it. Or at least open the drain on the stuck carb fully, then with the drain hose in a clean glass container. run the fuel pump a bunch of times and see if you can flush the crud thru. You maya or may not be able to see it in the glass jar, a pretty small piece of crud can cause the float valve to leak. If there is crud getting thru, you may be past due for a new fuel filter. It is also that the old rubber lines are breaking down on the inside from old age.

Also some of the aftermarket ignition modules are much smaller and easier to hide.

MK1s do not need the pressure relief. It is only the MK2s that may or may not need it, I guess that comes down to personal preference and how you like the bike to feel under you.Some say they need it and some say they dont. But the MK1 and MK2 work completely opposite of each other, so the MK1 never needs the anti dive IF you have progressive springs.

So sorry to hear this. Prayers for all of the families involved.

Just looking at the almost stripped screw heads, damaged in the loosening direction, tells me that the stator has been out before. Those screws are really hard to get out so PO may not have used loctite so that it would be easier next time. It should require an impact driver to get them out. Don't forget to examine the magnets in the flywheel real close for metal filing from that worn down screw head.

Since you are rebuilding the forks, I hope you put in new progressive springs. AND if you put in new progressive springs then you do not need the anti dive system any more. Member Skydoc_17 makes a set of Stainless Steel block off plates to cover the holes in the lower forks. You could paint them to match and have a cleaner look and better performance and not having the anti dives sucking off precious braking pressure.

But the Yuasa does not mind that treatment is my point.

Even the service manual says to use loctite on those screws. The factory sure did.

From the pics it looks like the only damage is the one screw head. Should be an easy fix. If the stator still checks out electrically, I would replace all 3 screws with steel hex socket head screws. Now on the other hand, the cracking of the epoxy on the stator could mean that even if it does check out good, it may not be real long for this world.

Dang it............ Why did you have to put this where I could find it.......................

And then there are those of us that tried AGM and went back to a good old Yuasa flooded cell battery. Yes a new AGM has more energy than an old flooded battery. BUT AGM is also more fragile and easy to kill. I tried 2 different AGMs and never got more than 3 years out of one. My Yuasas last me 6-7 years and cost less up front. Yes they crank the engine a bit slower, but it always starts when told to. Granted I am not gentle on a battery. They get to sit outside all winter for 6 months being totally ignored with temps as low as -25F. AGM does not like that, you have to baby them, take them out of bike, bring them into a warm house, put a maintainer on them...........