Flyinfool

Here is the screw out of a junk carb. I can see where if your screws look like this that the mechanic might want to replace them. This one has definite rust pitting on the taper part where it seals. BUT then If it were mine and I could not find replacements, I would probably just clean it up with some emery paper and stick it back in there.

Yes I will cave an O2 sensor. it will be on the exhaust pipe of one of the front cylinders, just because they are easier to get off than the rear pipes so I can be on the bench to drill the holes and weld in a bung for the O2 sensor. I was also debating putting the O2 sensor on the collector so it will see an average of all 4 cylinders. But I do not know if there is room. But you still need to tell it what AF ratio you want under all of the various conditions there are several big tables to setup AF ratios based on rpm, throttle position acceleration deceleration engine vacuum. you want to run a bit leaner while cruising at a steady state but you need to go richer when you yank the throttle open. Yes you can just set all of the tables at 14:1 and it will run and be safe. but acceleration will be sluggish and gas mileage will be bad it will be popping out the exhaust etc. That is what all must be tuned in. Fat fingering an entry could be bad news.

The exact same procedure also works for the front brake.

Normally, the lighter the load the faster they blink. That is why people add the resistors to add more load to slow down the "hyper flashing" when LEDs are installed. I wonder if you may be having issues with weird internal circuitry in one or both of the LED bulbs? There are some bulbs that will not work on our bikes because the blinker system does not just turn off the power during the off part of the signal, but the bike actually grounds the bulb during the off cycle. Some of the 1157 LEDs have the two input leads connected together internally with just a very small resistor on the lead for the running lights so that when the turn signal is off and grounded it is effectively shorting out the LED part of the bulb, but there is just enough resistance in the system to not pop the fuse. I did a bunch of research on this problem a while back and the only solutions were to get different bulbs that did not have the internal connection (There is no way to tell if a bulb has the internal connection other than to try one and / or take one apart to see what is inside) or to add some diodes to isolate the bulb from the grounding. There were 3 different bulbs that I tested that did have the internal issue. One was from Autozone, and the other 2 were from ebay. Try putting in the front LED and the rear stock incandescent. If that works then try the rear LED and the front incandescent, maybe you can narrow it down to which one of the LEDs is causing your problem.

The engineer in me is leaking out, I lost count of how many times I have modified the design. There is always a better way to do it. It started out with the design being purely functional, but it was not nice to look at. I now have it looking much better but also a lot harder to make. For instance, the finned cover with the hole in the middle, It started life as just a flat piece of 1/8 thick aluminum plate. I added the fins just for the sake of appearance. this plate replaces the diaphragm cover on the carb so it is right out there and visible. I intend to make the cover black and then mill the edges of the fins back to bright, then clear coat to keep it looking good over time, should look much nicer that just a flat plate. Once I get the injectors, the injector will be sticking out through that hole in the plate, injectors are not very pretty so I may redesign the cover to hide more of it or see if I can come up with a cover for the injector, its wires and the gas line. Although I think I am going to use braided stainless gas lines just for the looks so I may not have to hide them. So far the design exists only in my computer and between my ears. My ears have been known to leak ideas out also....... As I mentioned earlier, this is a long term project, due to both financial and time reasons. Some of the parts I will have to buy expensive tooling to be able to make them. While the guy that designed the basic system has CNC to make the parts I am all manual machines so it will take a lot of time. My biggest concern is getting fuel mapping correct, to lean and the engine melts real quick. To save some cash I will be building the controller myself from a bag of resistors diodes capacitors ICs and other electrical goodies. The controller will be able to do both EFI and ignition. But this in its self will take a lot of time. As to if I will sell any or all of the parts, It will depend on just how much time it takes to make them, how much of a PITA it is to make them, and can I make them at a reasonable cost. I am expecting this conversion to cost me between $1500 and $2000 just in parts and materials alone, that includes nothing for all of the time it will take to make the parts that are custom to the application.

Some of those do look good, but I wonder about that much weight out on the end of a plastic fender. I have had the fender break and nearly lock the steering with nothing mounted on it, but then Wisconsin does have the second worst roads in the country.

Specifically which part number bulbs did you put in?

To expand on what has been said. Not only is brake fluid an incredible paint stripper, it is also wonderful and making ABS plastic go away. One drop can make a 4 inch hole in the fairing or other plastic part. Cover everything with towels and plastic to catch any splash. If you should happen to get any brake fluid on a painted surface IMMEDIATELY wash it off with lots of water. Once you take the cover off of the master cylinder, only move the clutch lever very slowly, there is a tiny hole that if you move the lever to fast it will squirt fluid high up into the air and it will get on everything. Start by draining as much of the old fluid out of the master as you can. I use a paper towel to sop it up and wipe any dirt or sediment from the bottom of the reservoir. Refill the reservoir with fresh clean fluid. Place the cover back on, just to help prevent an accidental squirt. Put the clear tube onto the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder and run it into a jar with just enough brake fluid to cover the end of the tube. Now crack the bleeder open and slowly squeeze the clutch lever all the way to the grip, then while holding the lever to the grip tighten the bleeder then release the lever slowly. This should have pushed some of the old fluid into the clear tube. Repeat the squeeze open close release procedure until the fluid coming out of the slave is clear and clean. Keep a very close eye on the fluid level in the master, DO NOT LET IT RUN DRY or you will push air into the system and that is harder to get back out. Top off the master to the correct level and put the cover back on.

Were the turn signals working correctly with the incandescent bulbs? Which bulbs did you put in?

Is the heat shield still present?

The ebay ad claims 60W but I believe that is for a par in a car. so it would be 30W each. they do not say what the wattage is for Hi or Low beam on the H4. All of the dual beam LEDs that I have looked at are double the wattage for HI beam. In the specs they like to list the LO beam wattage and the HI beam light output. I could not find a proper description for these specific bulbs to know for sure what they are. There are way to many people that just slap in a bulb and do not even know that there is such a thing as aiming, Some slap in the bulb and then aim the LO beam for the best illumination on the road, meaning that they adjusted the LO beam to where the HI beam should be. I am also amazed at just how many people do ride/drive around with the HI beams on. I know several bikers that ALWAYS ride with the high beam on even at night "so that they can be seen". I can understand those the use the HI beam when the sun is still out to help with visibility, that is not blinding anyone. The same is true for Driving lights vs fog lights. It is ok to have Fog lights on at night because the beam has a sharp cutoff and is supposed to be aimed low. Driving lights do not have a cut off and are aimed higher to light up a long distance down the road, this will also blind oncoming drivers. Sorry, I slipped into rant mode.................

But now it is contaminated, It was wrapped in a Harley bag..........

Just to state the obvious. If you do use the Dremel method, be sure to get all of the grinding dust out of the neck so that it can not get into your nice new bearings. Once I got my races out I also cut in some notches so that next time it will be easy to get onto the race with a punch.

As @cowpuc mentioned there is no place better than a small place at the Pond Monster Inn. I will be staying in the big green cabin with the double thick queen size bed. The Pond Monster Inn does attract a good mix of the young and the old.

Interesting So how is the beam pattern and the cutoff? How is the visibility at night.

I do not even have goats to let in the house, not that I would if I did. I also have no Rumba to attack things during the night. Beside if there was some mall thing roaming around the house at night I am pretty sure it would meet a 90lb dog that has big teeth. So I guess I will not get a $700 dog toy.

Does that mean he should bring her to MD? A couple days early??

I am getting pretty close to finishing the filling and sanding where I can shoot the first coat of primer on. Then I will see all the holes I missed..... I am getting close to that magical point of diminishing returns. You have to remember that this is an aircraft, weight matters and must be kept to a minimum. This means that the paint will have to be put on thin and correct the first time using a paint with good coverage so it only needs one coat of color. for the designs I will mask the areas for each color so that there is only one coat of color everywhere. and then just one coat of clear over the whole thing. I am being a lot more fussy on the top side that you can see. the bottom will only be visible going by at 400kts so not many people have good enough eyes to spot a blemish. I have started to design and cut out some more interior structural parts. This is one of those projects that you work like crazy, and then step back to admire your work and it looks the same as when you started. Building the internal structure is kind of like building a ship in a bottle but the bottle is opaque so that you are building by feel. At the end of the day all that work is internal so none of it is visible.

PARTY IN APPLETON!!!!!!!

You only thought it did, now it really is..............

85 not alive.............Said like "No5 is alive" from the movie Atlanta bridges falling down, falling down, falling down................ 85 FUBAR

Well if it comes in 3s then you are now good to go..........................

I did go back to my earlier post and fix the link. So yes you can still see it.

Since I can not get my bike out of its hole yet, go put on some miles for me...............

Sorry to hear of your last couple years of losses. I hope for smooth sailing ahead and that you enjoy your trip. With some luck we may cross paths somewhere.