Flyinfool

If you took out the 6 Allen bolts you may have messed up @Dano clutch. Dano uses an alignment fixture when tightening those Allen screws. My guess is that your best bet is to reinstall the Allen's with some fresh loctite and let that set for 24 hours before disturbing. Once you put it back together, except for the big center bolt, then get your strongest puller out and pop the whole works off the crank as a unit. to put it on the new bike, just pull the old flywheel and put on the new one and hit it with the torque wrench. Hopefully Dano will pop in here and give his .

@cowpuc I am hoping to have this done by mid to late summer. I may even decide to do the first flights with the plane (Not me...) nearly nekid with it wearing just a coat of primer. That way I can play sooner and then I can take my time over the winter to try to do a nice paint job instead of rushing it now to get it done. I still am planning to do all of the color work myself and then take it to an auto body shop to have someone with good equipment and knows what they are doing shoot the clear on. My clear coating is functional but never comes out looking good. I got the 2 vertical fins built today, they are in their jigs with the epoxy setting up as I type. Tomorrow I will find out if I did it correctly. I also got all of the hinges installed for one of the 2 control surfaces and the linkage to the servo built and setup. One more control surface yet to build.

Having a stick shift does not stop one from left foot braking. Many of the NASCARs have an idiot light to let the driver know that his left foot is resting on the brake. Those are highly skilled professional drivers. I also use left foot braking when driving a stick. There are times it appropriate to be using the brake and gas at the same time. This does not mean that I think it is appropriate for everyone to use left foot brake. Most do not even know why you might need to or have the skills to utilize it.] And then there are times where you need to use the gas, brake and clutch all at the same time, then you have to learn heel / toe, for brake and gas at the same time with the right foot. What is right for how one drives is not right for everyone. BUT following the rules of the road should be paramount for everyone regardless of how you accomplish it. I wonder just how many people have been doing certain things wrong for so long that they may actually believe it is the correct way or even the law. My pet peeve on the road is people that must cross a lane to make a turn. like turning left onto a 2 lane road and heading right for the right lane and not the left lane like they should. Same thin making a right turn to the left lane of a 2 lane. Worst is when they do that and then make another lane change to the lane they should have turned into in the first place because they are going to turn again.

Bob I know that a lot of things are different and unique on the 83. But doesn't the CMU still have the reed switches inside of coils to trigger the CMU warnings? Those reed switches still need to be jumpered to make the warnings go away. As far as the usefulness of the RLU, I have had a headlight burn out at 75MPH going around a curve at midnight, I sure wish that bike had a RLU, I never was able to get the pucker out of that bike seat afterwards........ That said, the RLU is bypassed on my bike so that the HID will work. I also repurposed the white headlight bulb on the dash for something else. I have the option of not turning on my headlight and so I have a bright red LED in that socket that is lit whenever the headlight is not lit. It will remind me to turn it on in the daytime if I should forget, and will also let me know if the headlight failed in the daytime. Even though I have HID on the bike now, I still carry the old stock bulb for emergencies. With the HID systems they do not like to get turned on and off all the time so many have added some switch feature so that the headlight does not come on right away with the key, then turn off with the starter and have to fire back up again, I am not sure if this is an issue with some, any, or all of the LED systems available. The LED itself don't care, not sure of the ballast.

The bike wants to see around 50W of headlight power. if the headlight you are looking at is only 6W, you need to pull a lot more power. I do not know what the threshold of the sensors on the bike are. It MAY take less than 50W to make them happy.

Yes you will need to something with the DRL or it will be constantly switching between HI and LO beam till it does let the smoke out of something. Then you will want to jumper the CMU in the dash so that the headlight warning is not constantly lit up.

YOU ARE BUSTED..........:mugshot: And you say you went for a ride around the lake, that means you went right past my house and did not stop in for proper harassment????? Well Happy BD anyhow you old timer you. At least you did not try to go in your Birthday suit, they would have had to wash everyone's eyes with battery acid and then would have had to burn the place down afterwards......................

The bushings that the levers pivot on are known to wear out. You do grease them regularly don't you? I clean all of my handlebar switches as part of my spring maintenance.

As far as I know the only thing different on a CA bike is the canister and its associated plumbing and hardware. TCI is the same P/N so it should not be programed any different.

There have been cases where the wind blowing on the clutch lever is enough to open the cancel switch. Try pushing the clutch and brake levers forward while setting the cruise at a speed above 30 MPH. If you can, also lift up on the brake pedal with your foot at the same time. all may be good while stationary but under dynamic loads it could be intermittent. Mine also takes about 10 seconds to engage from the time I hit set, If I hit set and let go of the throttle the bike will slow down enough for the cruse to drop out.

SO? Which one did you wear?

You do not have to wait long for self flying cars. They will start flying this summer. http://www.thenational.ae/business/aviation/dubai-to-launch-driverless-flying-cars-by-this-summer

I also have a California version, I still get in the 35-40 MPG range depending on how aggressive I am riding. If I behave a bit I have no problem getting 40 MPG. So I do not think it is the Cali junk causing the problem ASSUMING it is all working correctly. I do want to eliminate all that junk just to clean things up.

I voted black. The black will be much less likely to show stains from when you overload and/or miss the pie hole during the feeding frenzy.......

I also used to use an iPod nano 32G. I now have a 128G SD card in my old Galaxy S5 phone and it holds all of my music, movies, and then some. It would easily handle your 90G of music. The phones can output thru a headphone jack or blue tooth or USB to be able to interface with whatever you have. The SD card to add to my phone was about $60. Newer phones can take a 256G SD card. The phone can also handle all of my GPS duties, camera duties and a bunch of other things that I no longer have to carry with me.

You can always do a quick test to see if you are in the correct gear for the conditions at the moment. Slide your throttle hand up so that you are gripping the throttle and the parts in front of it so that you do not subconsciously adjust the throttle. While cruising at a steady speed. shift up or down a gear. If the bike speeds up then you were in the wrong gear for the conditions. It can be hard to wrap your head around the fact that often a lower gear and the higher RPM will allow you to close the throttle slightly and get better gas mileage. But it really does work that way. around 4,000 RPM seems to be the sweat spot. Sometimes it means riding around town in second gear. It is nice to get into the higher gears to make the bike more quiet. but then you loose the option of instant acceleration to get out of the way and you may be paying for that quiet with more gas.

I want one........................... I wonder what the price tag will be? I wonder how long it can fly on a charge? I wonder if the "only to be flown over fresh water" is because it is not if you crash but when you crash? Water is softer than ground, Salt water and electronics do not play well together. But I still want one......................

I looked at mine this morning before I jumped on it to head into work. The crops were just starting to sprout in the layer of dirt that is on the trunk........ Does that mean it is time to wash it?, Wont getting it wet just help the crops grow? Your bike looks good, mine will never be that clean unless I loose a bet and have to let someone else wash it.

I am not sure, it does not state anywhere that it is compatible with a wet clutch. Worst case it will cause the clutch to slip, in which case you will need to change it out to an oil that will work with a wet clutch.

Awesome! I cant wait to meet it in person somewhere.

OK you have verified half of the circuit is good. With bike turned on (does not need to be running), at the side stand relay, check from the red/white wire to ground, there should be 12V. Check from the blue/yellow wire to the red white wire. There should be 12V with the side stand down and 0V with the side stand up. With the bike turned off. check voltage from the blue/yellow wire to ground, it should be zero. If it is zero V then check resistance from the blue/yellow wire to ground, it should be infinity. If it is low resistance then the blue/yellow wire is shorted to ground somewhere.

Putting in the K&N filter will lean it out, many have had to go back to a stock filter because the K&N was to lean. These bikes are very sensitive to any changes on the intake side.

4 of you carried it? Dang you and your friends are a lot stronger than me. This is not a lightweight bike. I wonder, if a pin falls out of the shift cam it will prevent you from shifting up beyond that point. If you are above that point when the pin falls out will it also prevent you from going below that point? What say ye that have spent more time in the trans than I have. I thought that that part can at least be seen by pulling the clutch cover.

DOH! Dats what I meant, a brick, ya that's it. Knew it all along..................

Age and miles have little do do with needing the carbs pulled and rebuilt. All it takes is one winter storage that was not done correctly and the carbs can be gummed up. 1st gear should just about pull the front wheel off the ground. you should get near 40 mpg. Some get a little better and some a bit worse, but in that ballpark. These bikes run amazingly well on 3 cylinders, there have been people that have run a whole year not realizing that they were running on 3. I would start by giving it a heavy dose of SeaFoam, a full can to a tank of gas and then take it out and ride it like ya stole it, park it over night and then ride it like ya stole it again. do this for a couple of days till the tank is near empty then refill and see how things are. This is the cheap and easy thing to try first. From a cold engine, start it up and monitor the exhaust pipe temps to see if one heats up slower than the rest, this is likely your weak cylinder. it could be spark, fuel or mechanical. Can you give us some history on the bike?