Flyinfool

IF desperation does kick in................... I just bought an aftermarket front master upgrade, it has only a 2 wire switch. So I will be connecting that switch to operate the brake light, and using the brake light to drive a relay to operate the cruise kill.

Depending on how good of terms you are on with the landlord, maybe have him deal with it since he rented out a place with no crawl space access but enough access for critters to get in. Around here anyhow, I never seen a house with a crawlspace that did not have access. At some point in time someone will need to go under there for some kind of maintenance on the house. Be careful if you do get in there, you do not want to meet the skunk (or some other nasty critter) under there with no room to run.

Someone was out playing again....................

Another perfectly good thread hijacked.......... Now back to our regularly scheduled programing.. I have updated my RSVP on the calendar.

And I thought the "V" was because it will be a V engine.

My HID is wired hot to the battery with just a fuse. My relay to keep the headlight off for starting is in the bikes headlight circuit since that is what turns the HID on. The reason for the hot wire is due to a very high amp spike to initially fire the HID. This spike only lasts for a small fraction of a second. Once the bulb fires, the power drops back to whatever wattage the system is rated at. The switches and wiring in most bikes would not handle that spike for long before damage occurred. That hot wire is switched internally in the ballast so it SHOULD only be drawing power when the HID is lit. We can guess at stuff all day long for weeks, You need to get out the test light or ammeter and look at what is going on. It is even a possibility that you have a defective or poorly designed HID ballast. There are a lot of members that have HID, I have not heard of anyone reporting that the HID was killing the battery overnight or even at all.

Did you let the master run dry while flushing it out and get air in the system? If so you will need to bleed out the air.

Perfect opportunity to pick out the driest spot for the camper. Look at the other bright side, you were not sleeping in a tent.................. Someday soon we will be back to drought and everyone will be wishing for some rain. But this is sure the wettest spring we have had in a while. My yard is so soft I can not get the bike out.

Break out the test gear, anything else is just guessing.

Every locality has different rules for collector plates. Sometimes dramatically different. Some places only look at the model year on the title all the way to other places expect showroom stock. There are also dramatic differences in how the vehicle can be driven, from only to / from a show to no driving restrictions at all. Check YOUR local laws.

It might not be the first time someone pinched a while while putting a faring back together? I would start at the battery to check the parasitic draw before taking anything apart. I hate when I fix something by accident and end up never knowing for sure what the cause is/was.

BUT would mom and dad be happy with the things HE learned at MD...................

I have had my HID for 6 years now. I do not take the battery out of the bike for winter and I don't even have a tender, and it still starts in the spring. So HID per say is not the issue. I would start by disconnecting the ground wire from the battery and connecting an incandescent test light from the cable to the negative battery post. If it lights, even very dim in a dark garage, then you have a power draw. start pulling fuses one at a time until the light goes out, that will identify the problem circuit. You do have a fuse on the HID power hot wire, right? It is also possible that you have a bad battery that simply will not hold a charge. charge the battery and take it in to be load tested. A bad tender can destroy a new battery pretty quick.

17 year old clutch fluid? I would definitely start with a good flush, try not to get any air into the system while doing it as it can be a pain to get all the air back out. I would then flush the front and rear brakes if their fluid is also original. With brake fluid it is the age not the miles that matter. The fluid should be water clear, I am guessing yours is pretty brown. ANY color at all means that it contaminated and should be replaced right away.

Well Grandma made it thru another Birthday, she is now 103. WOW But alas all good things must come to an end. We were all surprised that she made it to her Birthday again but she will not be with us for much longer, she has made her peace with her maker and has been ready to go for a quite a while now. We are all praying for a quick and peaceful end to relieve her of the pain she is in. She says that there should be a law that makes it illegal to force people to stay alive and suffer.

I finally saw the commercial for this new Mobil oil. In the fine print at the bottom of the screen it does say "* or 20,000 miles whichever comes first".

He does small load emergency deliveries to anywhere in the Con USA. Since the van looks like and is licensed like a personal vehicle he does not follow any of the regs that commercial truckers have to like weigh stations where they can check your log book for hours on the road. He will drive straight thru for 30+ hours if necessary from Milwaukee to anywhere to get that emergency load of up to two pallets, or most anything else that could be loaded into a full size Chevy van, to where they need to be as fast as physically possible. He has a mattress up against a wall and then sleeps as soon as he has made the delivery. He only lasted 3 years before the physical demands made him quit.

You have to go back to the original website to fill in more states, then that site will make you a new jpg to attach to you sig and get rid of the old one.

I know that on the stator side you must have the gasket for proper clearance on the starter gears. But I do now that the clutch side has anything that close. try putting the cover on with no gasket and spin the engen over to see if anything hits. IF nothing hits then you can use an RTV gasket for a temp fix.

Yup, remove and jumper the RLU, You may have to jumper the 2 headlight circuits in the CMU if the LED does not pull enough amps to turn off the warning light. If the LED bulb does not have a battery direct feed wire you may not have to remove the RLU. I am guessing that it is real close to pulling enough power to let the RLU still do its thing, since you said the RLU is OK on HI beam.

According to that website Yamaha trademarked the name SRVENTURE on 9-30-2016 but it looks like that may be a snowmobile.

So how well does that little motor do? Does it now need to be licensed as a moped? or home built moped?

It all depends on a lot of things. In the bike I get an easy year out of an oil change, but then I only do about 5K per year and I am using a 7K full synth oil. the bike is stored for 6 months out of the year so it is really only 6 months on the oil. I am willing to bet that the 1 change per year is assuming you drive normal miles of 12,000 per year in favorable conditions. I bet it even says so on the jug. I know one guy that puts 250-300K miles per year on a chevy van, buys a new van every year, but does weekly oil changes.

I hate cutting grass with a passion. I sure wish we could get another BIG snow storm to put it all back into dormancy.Even though my yard is small enough that I can put a pot of water on the stove to make mac n cheese and be done before the water can boil. Maybe it has to do with having to cut the grass since I was tall enough to see over the grip. I used to have to cut 1 acre with an old push reel mower. Dad never got a "power" mower till after I moved out. At our flying field we have 5 acres of runway that has to be mowed twice a week to keep the grass short, We just bought a new Gravely 60" that thing has no problem cutting at 25 MPH. It will fly thru that 5 acres in just over an hour. But that still aint my job. I am still tempted to have my whole yard done in green cement, then all my yard problems will be gone for the rest of my life.

I will have to look in my bucket to see what I have. I do have a bunch but mostly thicker ones. On the other hand I do have technology to take one of your 282s and turn it into a 278. My bike ended up with all custom sizes just because I could. Another thing to watch for while doing your calculations for sizes of shims needed. make sure that the center of the shim that is in the bike is not worn to a dish shape as that will skew your math. That is one reason that some people do all the measuring and math, then put in new shims and it does not come out right. So when you pull out a shim mic it in the center and at the edge to see if it was worn to something less than what is marked on it. I have seen shims with as much as .005 inch of wear. That is .127mm or just over two shim sizes thinner in the middle.