Flyinfool

Break out the test gear, anything else is just guessing.

Every locality has different rules for collector plates. Sometimes dramatically different. Some places only look at the model year on the title all the way to other places expect showroom stock. There are also dramatic differences in how the vehicle can be driven, from only to / from a show to no driving restrictions at all. Check YOUR local laws.

It might not be the first time someone pinched a while while putting a faring back together? I would start at the battery to check the parasitic draw before taking anything apart. I hate when I fix something by accident and end up never knowing for sure what the cause is/was.

BUT would mom and dad be happy with the things HE learned at MD...................

I have had my HID for 6 years now. I do not take the battery out of the bike for winter and I don't even have a tender, and it still starts in the spring. So HID per say is not the issue. I would start by disconnecting the ground wire from the battery and connecting an incandescent test light from the cable to the negative battery post. If it lights, even very dim in a dark garage, then you have a power draw. start pulling fuses one at a time until the light goes out, that will identify the problem circuit. You do have a fuse on the HID power hot wire, right? It is also possible that you have a bad battery that simply will not hold a charge. charge the battery and take it in to be load tested. A bad tender can destroy a new battery pretty quick.

17 year old clutch fluid? I would definitely start with a good flush, try not to get any air into the system while doing it as it can be a pain to get all the air back out. I would then flush the front and rear brakes if their fluid is also original. With brake fluid it is the age not the miles that matter. The fluid should be water clear, I am guessing yours is pretty brown. ANY color at all means that it contaminated and should be replaced right away.

Well Grandma made it thru another Birthday, she is now 103. WOW But alas all good things must come to an end. We were all surprised that she made it to her Birthday again but she will not be with us for much longer, she has made her peace with her maker and has been ready to go for a quite a while now. We are all praying for a quick and peaceful end to relieve her of the pain she is in. She says that there should be a law that makes it illegal to force people to stay alive and suffer.

I finally saw the commercial for this new Mobil oil. In the fine print at the bottom of the screen it does say "* or 20,000 miles whichever comes first".

He does small load emergency deliveries to anywhere in the Con USA. Since the van looks like and is licensed like a personal vehicle he does not follow any of the regs that commercial truckers have to like weigh stations where they can check your log book for hours on the road. He will drive straight thru for 30+ hours if necessary from Milwaukee to anywhere to get that emergency load of up to two pallets, or most anything else that could be loaded into a full size Chevy van, to where they need to be as fast as physically possible. He has a mattress up against a wall and then sleeps as soon as he has made the delivery. He only lasted 3 years before the physical demands made him quit.

You have to go back to the original website to fill in more states, then that site will make you a new jpg to attach to you sig and get rid of the old one.

I know that on the stator side you must have the gasket for proper clearance on the starter gears. But I do now that the clutch side has anything that close. try putting the cover on with no gasket and spin the engen over to see if anything hits. IF nothing hits then you can use an RTV gasket for a temp fix.

Yup, remove and jumper the RLU, You may have to jumper the 2 headlight circuits in the CMU if the LED does not pull enough amps to turn off the warning light. If the LED bulb does not have a battery direct feed wire you may not have to remove the RLU. I am guessing that it is real close to pulling enough power to let the RLU still do its thing, since you said the RLU is OK on HI beam.

According to that website Yamaha trademarked the name SRVENTURE on 9-30-2016 but it looks like that may be a snowmobile.

So how well does that little motor do? Does it now need to be licensed as a moped? or home built moped?

It all depends on a lot of things. In the bike I get an easy year out of an oil change, but then I only do about 5K per year and I am using a 7K full synth oil. the bike is stored for 6 months out of the year so it is really only 6 months on the oil. I am willing to bet that the 1 change per year is assuming you drive normal miles of 12,000 per year in favorable conditions. I bet it even says so on the jug. I know one guy that puts 250-300K miles per year on a chevy van, buys a new van every year, but does weekly oil changes.

I hate cutting grass with a passion. I sure wish we could get another BIG snow storm to put it all back into dormancy.Even though my yard is small enough that I can put a pot of water on the stove to make mac n cheese and be done before the water can boil. Maybe it has to do with having to cut the grass since I was tall enough to see over the grip. I used to have to cut 1 acre with an old push reel mower. Dad never got a "power" mower till after I moved out. At our flying field we have 5 acres of runway that has to be mowed twice a week to keep the grass short, We just bought a new Gravely 60" that thing has no problem cutting at 25 MPH. It will fly thru that 5 acres in just over an hour. But that still aint my job. I am still tempted to have my whole yard done in green cement, then all my yard problems will be gone for the rest of my life.

I will have to look in my bucket to see what I have. I do have a bunch but mostly thicker ones. On the other hand I do have technology to take one of your 282s and turn it into a 278. My bike ended up with all custom sizes just because I could. Another thing to watch for while doing your calculations for sizes of shims needed. make sure that the center of the shim that is in the bike is not worn to a dish shape as that will skew your math. That is one reason that some people do all the measuring and math, then put in new shims and it does not come out right. So when you pull out a shim mic it in the center and at the edge to see if it was worn to something less than what is marked on it. I have seen shims with as much as .005 inch of wear. That is .127mm or just over two shim sizes thinner in the middle.

Best support you can give her is to not get in her way, and do not even think of trying to use her preferred locations in the house.

The last time I tried renting a car or a hotel room they would not take a debit cart, insisted on a CC. As mentioned there are minimal protections on a debit card if your should be compromised. CC is a LOT safer to use in todays world full of hackers and scammers.

Put a volt meter across the battery terminals, it should read around 12.6V. Turn on the key and hit the starter, if the battery stays at 12V and the bike is dark, then the problem is in the bikes wiring, if the voltage drops by more than 2 or 3 volts, then the battery is the problem.

Wonderful trip! Was glad to be able to follow along with you. Thank you.

For the rear, just take the front line off the master and plug the hole with a bolt and crush washer. Done. For the front you will need to come up with new brake lines. You can either run a single line down to a splitter and then the two lines to the front calipers. OR. Leave the right line like it is and just add a second line from the master to the left caliper, using a double banjo bolt at the front master. Since you have a MK1 you will probably want to upgrade the front master to a bigger one, Stock is 1/2 inch (12.7mm) the MK2 has a 14mm master (9/16 inch). I just picked up a 16mm master but I have not tried it yet. Most people are happy with the 14mm master. @skydoc_17 sells a delink kit with all the braided stainless lines and instructions.

:sign yeah that: The only time 85 or 86 matters is if you have a relay with a diode built in. If you have that it will be shown in the connection diagram that is printed or molded into the relay case.

OK silly idea here, are the bulbs reversed for the set and resume lights, I am trying to remember but I thought there was enough slack in the wires to put the bulbs in the wrong location. So you push the set button and the resume light comes on? If you then hit the brake by chance does the set light come on? If you hit set and the resume light comes on, did you then try hitting resume? Give the cruise some time to wake up. Mine takes 5-10 seconds to do anything, If I release the throttle right away after hitting set or resume the bike will slow down enough for it to kick out on under speed. I have to hold the speed just a couple MPH less than what I set it for until I feel the cruise take up the slack.

That pic looks like it is closer to a 2nd gen seating position but closer to 1st gen styling? The trunk looks huge. How long before there is a 20 year old one that I can afford?