Flyinfool

I switched to a laser printer the last time I had to replace my printer, It did not cost a lot more than the inkjet, but the toner does not go bad or dry out with age and need to be tossed out. In a ink jet every time you turn it on to print it does a head cleaning procedure, the procedure involves squirting ink into a cup or pad in the bottom of the printer where it will just dry up. That is why an inkjet that is seldom used goes through ink so fast. It is always squirting ink to keep its nozzles clean. Toner for a laser jet is just a dry plastic powder, It will basically last forever. So I get literally thousands of prints before it needs new toner. And since toner is powdered plastic that is melted onto the paper, it is also water proof so it will not smudge if you touch it with a wet finger or try to use a highlighter on it. The extra cost of the laser printer up front has been easily paid for in the ink cost savings. not to mention that for years at a time the only thing I do to the printer is add paper.

Cruising is at whatever your most common speed and RPM is. When you said something loosened up.......... Another thing to check, are you running on all 4 cylinders? These bikes run amazingly well on 3 cyl but the MPG sucks. There have been people that ran for years on 3 not noticing one was not working. The quick test, when the bike is cold, start it up and monitor the header temps to see if they all heat up at the same rate, careful it don't take long to get hot enough to burn your finger.

These are modern ATM fuses. I always buy Little Fuse or Bussman brand, more expensive but made in USA, and they blow when they should. ANY style of cheap Chinese fuses have been known to not blow when they should. I have seen Chinese fuses melt into a blob and melt the fuse holder, but still not blow.

I was working on the truck installing a new set of LED DRLs. Then it all hit the fan. While I was messing around under the hood in the fuse panel I noticed that there was a 10A fuse that was broken, a big chunk missing out of it, It was fuse 48 for the HVAC, It still tested good and everything still worked, but I can not survive nowing I have a broken fuse. So I pulled that fuse and put in the spare fuse that was in the cover for the inside fuse panel. Tested both sides of the new fuse with the test light and it showed as good. The next day I noticed that the compass in the DIC was showing as "--" instead of a compas direction. Hmmmmmm........ So back to my service manual and there is a test procedure for when the compass reads --. So I start running thru the procedure. Step one check the fuse, what do ya know, it is fuse 48 for the HVAC that powers the compass module, the brand new fuse again checked out good as I would expect it to. Step 2 drop the headliner.............. DANG. The compass module is glued to the headliner just behind the drivers head. I was able to loosen things up on the whole drivers side of the headliner to pull it down enough to get my arms in there to get at the module. and test the pins at the connector, my test showed there was no +12V on the pink wire at the module, so I started to follow that pink wire back, it went to a connector under the dash, (I am an old grey fat man, I do not do under dash well anymore) there was no +12V to the pink wire under there either. the next stop for the pink wire is fuse 48 under the hood. So I pulled the fuse and checked continuity of the pink wire from the fuse terminal to the module connector and had good continuity. Hmmmm........................ so just for giggles I stuck the test light probe into the pink wire side of the fuse socket and connected the probes ground clip to +12v. Turned on the ignition and the compass was working again. More head scratching. OK time for more giggles, I put in the old fuse, that has a big chunk missing out of it, back in. Compass is working. I put in the brand new fuse and compass no worky. OK so I have a brand new 10A fuse that tests as good with an ohm meter, looks like good element not broken, will test as good by probing the 2 probe points on the top of the fuse, but will not pass power. I bought some new fuses and installed one at fuse 48 and put another new one in the spare fuse holder for someday, and all is good, then I got to put the headliner back up. I wasted a whole day over a brand new bad fuse that tests good. But then I was home with all my tools and test gear available, It could have got ugly if I were on the road and that broken fuse finally failed and I would have put in the new spare fuse and nothing sill would have worked. I really hate brand new parts that are bad, cuz you tend to go right past them looking for some other problem. How many times on this site have you seen me tell people it is possible to have new bad parts. But yet I still get burned by it. ANd I know better............................ :bang head: :bang head: :bang head:

Either the K&N filters or the muffler changes or the V-Max rear each by themselves can reduce MPG. What mileage were you getting before you made all these changes? Even with these changes you still should be close to 40 MPG at 60MPH with no wind, at least in the high 30s. High speed will kill MPG. I was down to 18 MPG driving at 80 into a 40 MPH head wind, pulling a trailer. As soon as I slowed to 65 and the wind died I was back to 40. A good head wind or cross wind will drop MPG. If MPG was calculated over just one fill and the first fill was not quite full but the send was a good fill it will look like low MPG. There are a lot of variable that affect MPG. We can help you sort thru them, best done one at a time because one change may help and another change might hurt and the result is no change. so you end up discarding a good change. First is to see where you are at now. After a good run at cruising speed, in a safe area, pull in the clutch, click off the kill switch and then stop off the road under no power. Pull the plugs and see if you are running rich or lean so you know what to adjust. Anything else is just trial and error guessing. Plugs should be a nice light tan color, darker is running rich and lighter is running lean. This will tell you if you need to jet up or down or add shims or remove shims. Also just your riding style can have a big impact on MPG. Was this steady state cruising on the highway or city low speed stop and go? Was your right wrist having a good time?

Ya know........................... Looking at this pic some more. The diaphragm covers are raised quite a bit above the surface that the screw heads bear on. I would have to look at a 2nd gen a lot closer but I think this might just fit inside of the tank. It will be real close.

The person that invented the system no longer will make the parts, He is also the same person selling the plans. I spoke to him and he has no problem with me making the parts to sell as long as I do not divulge the plans, since he still sells those. He even encouraged me to make extra sets and he likes my redesign to the point he wants to buy a set of parts from me once I have them. So there is no legal issues at this point in time.

Vid I never even thought of the 2nd gens, there is a lot of stuff to find places for, no one near me has a 2nd gen for me to look at. The farther that I get into this I am not so sure that it is suitable for the masses, at least not by me. There is a lot of electrical work to do and I know that scares a lot of people, there is welding to do, and a lot of mechanical assembly of all the bits and pieces. There is also a huge amount of time needed for me to make all of the custom parts since I do not have access to CNC. My basement is all manual machines. I started working on a BOM and parts list, from a distance it is looking like it will sneak up on the 2K mark, my cost, not including any tools I have to buy. I am not going the cheapest route for everything, cheap is sometimes more expensive in the long run. Once I buy the O2 sensor and the weld on bung I can start to play with ideas of where to put it. I was hoping to fit it on top of the collector. so it can read an average of all 4 cylinders, It has been recommended to me to just put it on any one down pipes close to the valve. I think that it would be fairly easy to hide on one of the front pipes way up high. And a LOT easier than dropping the collector. Did I ever mention that I hate carbs, even more than most of you hate snow.

Well I have ordered and received one of the injectors. This allows me to verify the sizes and fits. Of course it don't fit as expected so I am now editing the dimensions of all the parts that I have drawn up. Good thing I did not just believe the drawings and start cutting metal. Who knows, if it keeps up with this weather pattern of rain all weekend every weekend, I might actually get this built. I still have some small parts to find sources for.

I am not sure if a 2ng gen has the same rubber plug for the wires to go thru as a 1st gen. If it does there is a way to make it not leak oil.

My understanding is in line with yours.

I was thinking along the same lines as far as heat is concerned, I was wondering if the September release date had anything to do with being at the end of riding season and after the worst of summer is over so that they can get 6-9 months of sales in before real summer heat is experienced by anyone.

One thing different in all of these tests is that the engine was not running? It might be a function of the vibration and/or the slightly higher charging voltage??????? Just a WAG at this point. One thing with the circuit breakers, like a fuse they will trip instantly on a direct short. But the circuit breakers are more like a slow blow fuse, there is a delay where they will not trip right away during a mild overload condition, where a fuse would still pop fairly quick. Just another element to keep in mind. Can you post a good close up pic of one of the blown fuses, Sometimes you can tell if it was blown from a short or an overload by the way the element melted. A short will just about vaporize the element where a slight overload will just melt it.

Bigger caliber? So I should bring my hand howitzer? (If it aint sold by then.........) Or should I just bring my 22 Ruger MKII with the 10" bull barrel.

Unfortunately I know that things will get much worse long before they get better. I refuse to live in fear of the loonies, and terrorists, in reality they are few and far between, BUT that does not mean I will be reckless or not make an effort to protect my family and myself. Heck I am probably the greatest danger to myself. While there are back door ways to do almost anything including getting a gun. Myself and all of my friends that own guns all use the same policy when it is time to sell one. I require that I will take a picture of a current photo ID and a current state issued CCW before I will sell you one of my guns. Yes it does cost me some sales and often makes me wait longer to find a "qualified" buyer, but if they have a CCW I know that they have passed the same FBI background check (at least they did within the last 5 years) that a dealer uses. Not everyone does this. Probably most don't. There is a good chance that the only reason I am here to type this is because I have loaded guns. dfitzbiz I resemble your signature...............

I have had IPass for10+ years, it has never messed up my billing. There have been times where they never charged me for a toll, especially on the bike. It is fairly often that the system does not register right away but will register a month later. I do have all correct vehicle descriptions and license plate numbers so that when they look at the picture and read the plate they know which account to charge. I figure that on the bike it is either the weird colors of my collector plate or that the trunk hangs so far back over the plate that if the IPass does not pick up they have no clue who it was.

So is it 24mm or 16mm? 24mm is about 15/16, 16mm is about 5/8 13/16 is 20.6mm? Now I am really cornfused..................

Now I am sure you have heard @cowpuc talking about the 60° snow that he has me working on..........................

Yup looks like one leg shorted to ground. Yes you do need the paper gasket when you put it back together, you can NOT use RTV gasket.

Something else some forget to factor in. I do not know how the taxes work in your state, but in Wisconsin you do not pay any sales tax on the trade in portion of a deal. So if you are paying 27K for the new bike and you get a 4K trade in then you only pay sales tax on 23K. If you sell the bike yourself for 5K and then go buy the new bike for 27K you will pay the sales tax on all 27K. Something to look into and do the math to see just how much more you need to sell your bike for to break even with the cost of trading in, in your state.

To bad I did not know this yesterday while I was flying thru Fondy (Was in Appleton for a graduation) with my truck and had meters and stuff............. The stator has a 3 phase output, it is common to loose one phase and have partial charging. the remaining 2 phases will try to carry the load but one of them will die soon and then you have nothing. There is a step by step for diagnosing the charging system that I wrote up in the tech section. It will isolate it down to the bad part, I hate throwing money at a problem. If you get real stuck let me know, I can probably talk you thru it, it is to hot for me to ride up there and survive. If it were 20° cooler I would have jumped on the bike already for a marshmallow butt run up to your place. I do have a spare NIB stator and RR for my 88, I do not know if they are the same in a 2nd gen.

A crash bar / engine guard that is inside of the plastic will do nothing to protect the plastic and paint, and may even make the damage worse. But then it does look like the plastic and paint will do a good job of protecting the crash bar from damage in a non moving drop. In a crash there is no protection for anything.

Bob it does sound like welded contacts, that is why I suggested testing the solenoid first. None of the other possible issues should make the bike crank with the key turned off. But then, what would or could have caused the contacts to weld while the bike was in storage????

Those were the days........................... My 2 oldest are both grandmas, Now I really feel like the wolves are after me.................................. THANKS A LOT...................

That was hilarious.