Flyinfool

Did you try an impact driver?

Back a few years ago the state did a study to find out why the number of motorcycle deaths had risen. Their conclusion was that it really did not rise, the number of bikes on the road had risen greatly with the spike in gas prices and the number of MC deaths per 1000 bikes stayed close to the same. By far the greatest number of deaths was for riders with less than 2 years MC experience. They only looked at deaths, not crashes. You can always shake the beans till they fall into the pattern you want.

Back to the beginning. When You turn on the cruise does the blue light come on? When you press set does the green light come on? At any time does the amber light come on? Does the self canceling on your turn signals work?

What you talkin bout dude..................? I is innocent I tells ya. I N N O C E N T...................

Sounds like progress to me.

Some of what I have discovered by trial and error. 1. for lighting up the sides of the road to see deer there is nothing better than dedicated fog lights. 2. there are a lot of lights that come as "driving" or "fog" or "wide angle", these are not the same as dedicated fog lights. Real fog lights will have a top cutoff so that they do not blind oncoming traffic, wide angle or driving lights do not have this cutoff and therefor are NOT what you want. Many of the lights made for off road have a round beam so that when you are going down a hill there is a lot of light up high to light the road going up the other side of the ditch, these will also blind other drivers not accomplish what you need for seeing critters to the side. 3. Real fog lights will do very little to light up things straight ahead they are designed to put most of their light out to the sides where the deer and other critters are going to come from. There are a lot of good fog lights now available, just be sure it has the top cutoff and you will be good.

So we will see you and the missis here this weekend? Hot Fudge is in season right now you know............

You could always take her to Leons here in Milwaukee, It is an ice cram stand good enough to be open and selling ice cream with the temp below zero and a howling blizzard.

Murphy's Law says that no mater what sizes you buy, you will still need a size you don't have on hand.

I am not telling ol Puc to not ride nekid, just to NOT post pics of it. A nekid bike ride is still an item on my bucket list, but I will spare most of you all the agony of posting pics of me doing it.

There are a few people that modify the stock seat by changing the foam inside and then reuse the original cover so it will still look OEM. About the only way to tell would be to compare to a known stock seat.

I had some imbecile that was behind me and pulled into the merge lane pulled up next to me and matched my speed and was then VERY upset I did not move out of his way to let him merge. He told me I was #1 . So I smiled and waved and he went berserk. Then he started to play games so I explained the difference between my V8 Chevy with speed governors removed, and his V6 Dodge. Never saw him again after he faded in my rear view mirror.

@cowpuc Go into the camera settings on your phone and set it to take smaller pics so that you will not need to resize them. Still no pics, that will be ANOTHER violation................. May have to add another couple of feet of depth to your bill.................... Hope you are havin fun out there, but you need to check in more often so that we know you 3 are all still OK. Yes we worry about our one and only pucster, and of course his wonderful bride. but PLEASE Puc, no pics of you riding nekid, I hate having to wash my eyes out with sulfuric acid and then wash my brain with bleach.

On the middle gear cover the very bottom bole goes thru into the oil sump, there is supposed to be a copper crush washer under the head of that bottom bolt to seal the oil. if you reused that washer a bunch of times and/or it is not there, that is a common leak. Also on the front left engine cover where the 3 stator wires come out, they go thru a rubber grommet, that grommet is also a popular leak point.

Check to make sure you have the stock seat. Most people even as tall as you complain the bike is t tall and are looking for ways to lower it. If you do have a lowered seat I'll bet someone will be more than happy to trade with you.

I agree that it looks like the plastic has been bent for a long time and has taken a set. Use a heat gun to get everything back where it belongs. Then use ABS pipe cement to glue all the edges back together. The on the inside paint the area with the ABS cement and lay in some Fiberglass Cloth and more ABS cement to be sure the cloth is fully wetted and it will become part of the fairing making it stronger than new and not add much thickness to get in the way. If you are real careful you can do this and only have the hairline cracks visible in the paint when you are done. When you reassemble if the holes do not line up it is likely that the mounts got bent in a drop. you may have to do some tweaking on them to get it all lined up. It is tempting to just bend the plastic to fit but that will leave stress that will try to fracture again.

I do know that rubber is very expensive, check the date codes and not just the thread depth. I do not know anything more specific about DPs vs bumper pull travel trailer and just to do a lot of looking and checking of all systems.

Me neither. I aint gonna open that link and mess with my poor old brain. There is enough crap stuck in there already without putting something back that I already got rid of. Nope aint gonna fall fer it..............................

Always start with the easy and/or cheap things first. Check the fuse. Check all of the connections to be sure they are still connected. Just sneak under the 2 terminals of the horn with your voltmeter leads to see if power is getting to the horn. If no power then just start following the wire back testing each connection to see where the power stops.

I prefer a car with a stick. The only reason that my truck is an auto is that none of the creature comforts can be had with a stick, I like my carpeting, my power everything and premium sound system. Way back in the 70s I learned how to drive stick on the way home from the dealers lot with my first car. Now I even get weird looks from car salesmen when I tell them that my definition of a sports car is rear wheel drive, a V8 (or a V more), and a stick. Besides, If I get a sports car with a stick I will never have to worry about the wife ever wanting to drive it. But you are correct in that very few people know how to drive a stick anymore, especially young (under 40) people, some are able to, but do not really know how to.

40-50% humidity? I dont even know what that little feels like. We hit 92 today but with 90% humidity

Yes my relay mod is assuming a good front brake light switch. With Bobs switch and my relay mod the cruise and brake light should work as designed.

Love your trip reports bro. But YOU of all people should know the rules. Even the aint above the rules. You know we bust you every time. I just got home from the U.P. You mean you went right past me and didn't wave? I even saw a bike up there that reminded me of the way you pack. Now I see it might have actually been you. I bet we could have gotten into some trouble up there.

With a starting bid of just $5 I will likely toss in a bid just it case it needs to be stolen. It has had almost 700 views, I bet there are a bunch of someones that know exactly what they are looking at. It would sure be fun to have if i can get it cheap. Then just need to dispose of the trailer that is under it. I am guessing it will take more than a tank or 10 of gas to get there and back......... Rough guess is about $1K in just gas. I am guessing Puc would be all over this.

First you need a 12V 5 pin relay that is SPDT. Like this one. I have seen 5 pin relays that have 2 pins labeled 87 and no pin 87a it is a standard SPST with 2 output terminals. You need the SPDT version for this that has a Pin 87a. Connect a wire from Pin 85 to ground. Connect a wire from Pin 86 to tap into the Yellow brake light wire from the brake switch. Connect the green/yellow wire from the brake switch to Pin 30. Connect the Black/White wire from the brake switch to Pin 87a. Place an insulated terminal with no wire onto Pin 87 just so it can not short on anything. You still will have the Yellow and the Brown wires connected to the brake light switch.