Flyinfool

A surprise huh. Does that mean he now has his buddy the goat to help with lawn care?

You need to check your states license out carefully, the Wisconsin version will get you into Canada but will NOT get you back into the USA.

My 1st gen with me on it is north of a half ton. I am guessing than an RSV with me on it is also north of a half ton. Neither of these would even need any gear added to reach a half ton. full gear would push that up more.

Normally the "keep alive" does not draw enough to light an incandescent bulb. Pulling the fuse for the "keep alive" circuit will also remove that from the equation.

I have a spare 1.21 gigawatt Flux capacitor left over from my Snowpercharger, so I can retrofit that in. But no warp drive probably means that there are also no dilithium crystals. I do not know if I can live without Warp Drive or Dilithium Crystals. It also looks like I will not be able to lay eyes on one till it hits the dealers floors. Fuel injection does not necessarily remove the need to sync, if there are multiple throttle bodies then they will still need to be in sync, I do not have any idea of what the air intake system is like on this bike. with the fly by wire throttle the computer just might be able to handle the sync also.

Are you sure that you do not have a continuity tester? Does your tester have a battery in it? Connect the lest light clip to the test light tip, does it light? With everything disconnected from the positive battery terminal and the test light connected between the neg cable and neg battery there is no possible way the light can be lit by the bike. There is something wrong with what you are doing, or something is getting lost in the explanation.

WAY to many people do not have properly aimed lights. If your low beam is lighting up the road way far ahead it IS aimed to hi, That is what the HI beam is for. I have seen many cars and truck from the factory that do not have the lights aimed correctly, The person in the factory literally has 45 seconds to aim the lights before the vehicle moves on down the assembly line. That person gets them close at best. Then if you add a bunch of weight in the back it will also raise the beam higher than it should be. Every time I change a bulb, even take one out and put it back in, I check the aim, it can and will move just due to manufacturing tolerances. Bright will not get you flashed, bad aim will, my truck has 110wats of HID low beams and I never get flashed even though they are many times brighter than stock, but they are aimed correctly. I had to lower the cutoff almost a foot below the factory setting to get it within spec at 20 feet, with the load of stuff that I normally carry in the back of the truck. PLEASE aim you lights correctly.

NICE!

That tire is a blowout ready to happen. Ride no faster than you are willing to go down at.

You wore out 2 clutches in 62K miles? Something is not right.

Hey Puc Are you gonna be sneaking around the bottom side of the pond on the way home or you taking the top route again? Your gorgeous riding partner and I have still not yet met, and you have yet to meet my gorgeous partner. You know the one that make me go play in the shed all winter................... Figured you might just want to have a talk with her.....................

I just googled "McDonough ga auto paint supplies" and it showed 3 auto paint suppliers in your area. Just go there and they will know exactly what you need and probably have some helpful advice on how to use it, as well as know what else you will need to get the job done. The auto body supply store here has been very helpful to me including custom mixing paint to match my 88 venture.

Hmmmmm I always used Big Black Rubber Baby Buggy Bumpers. There is a sand able product for the rubber car bumpers. I had to use some MANY years ago, to repair a gouge out of the front bumper of my 91 Firebird Formula. I do not remember what it is called, I got it at a local paint store that supplies the area collision repair shops with all their paint and supplies.

So did you repeat the breakfast run today to see if the sync made a difference?

Nope, I don't play that game. I have told her many times to just say what she means because I do not know how to read between the lines. Yes means yes, and no means no. I take everything quite literally. She has gotten used to the concept of say what you mean, because I will do what you say, and all the whining in the world will not make me feel bad for simply following instructions. But with that said, she has become quite adept at using the word NO!!! At least I know exactly where I stand. My EX wife never did master the concept of yes and no.

It all depends on just the valves were done last time and how long ago it was. I think it was around every 30k that valves are recommended in the owners manual. If they were set as "good" but right on the low end then those would most likely need attention again. When I did my valves I made sure that they were al right on the high side of the tolerance so that I know they will be good for a long time.

If the valves are bad enough to notice something, it means that the valve is down to less than zero clearance and the valve is not closing, this will result in major engine damage, not just a MPG drop. But if Cowpuc stayed down there he would no longer be able to harass me about the snowpercharger every day during the winter. I don't think he would want to give up all that fun.........................

Well since she is not interested, I'll be right there.........................

The ground wire being off the relay would cause it to not disengage the cruise. The relay is set up to break the circuit when power is applied. So unfortunately the ground being off the relay is not your problem with the cruise not working. Can you get a pic of the end of the relay with the wires on it?

No Puc you did not break the computer, THIS TIME, It is just PhotoBucket getting greedy and ruining a lot of good threads on forums all over the world. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?131012-Saw-this-in-another-forum-today&highlight=photobucket

+1 more on what Cowpuc and Frank said. I did some actual testing with 91 ethanol free and regular 87 with ethanol. In small engines with no computers to take advantage of the higher octane, they all actually made less power on the 91. This is because the higher octane actually burns slower and cooler, with the high RPMs that these small engines run the exhaust ports were open before the fuel was done burning. So the engine temp was cooler but the muffler temp was was about 200°F hotter. Running against a fixed load the peak RPM was also about 200 RPM less, so there is noticeably less power available. This is true in lawnmower size and smaller, like weed eaters and chainsaws. In my Venture I was unable to measure or notice any difference in performance or mileage other than the weight of my wallet. BUT in my P/U truck Chevy half ton with all the computer stuff, I ran a test where I used premium for a full year, writing all the info down in a log book. Based on a full year of premium vs a full year of regular the premium does get better gas mileage, which makes since since the computer can advance the timing to take advantage of it. Because the computer can take advantage of it, my 0-60 time was also a bit better with the premium. BUT and you know there always is one, when I did the $ per mile calculation. Regular still won by a bunch. the $/mile was a lot closer on the occasions where I could get ethanol free premium (the nearest ethanol free is 98 miles away), but the 87 still always won. As a result of the test I do use the high octane when I hook up the RV to hit the road, That little extra HP is noticeable to get that 6200 lbs going, and the slightly better gas mileage is simply more convenient, I save one gas stop on the trip. I think your 91 got contaminated with water either by you or at the pump or even just condensation and the ethanol helped to dry it out. Higher octane will never harm an engine. It will just have a bit less power if there is no way for it to make use of the extra octane. Lower octane in an engine that is designed for high will do damage. I did one have some leftover 130 octane racing gas, that I dumped in my truck for proper disposal, the computer seemed to like that a lot, but the truck developed a squeak in the tires that went away as soon as that gas was used up. and the exhaust smelled like candy......... Ahhh I miss that smell........

Yes you do rotate the engine backwards to remove the tool. If you try to rotate the tool thru you WILL break something, engine tool or both. You need to watch very close when using the tool to push the buckets down, trying to push them below the surface of the head will damage the head. Once you do the first valve set it will be obvious as to how it all works.

A lot of the volume of my dedicated saddle bag is taken up by a role of paper towels and TP, some cloth rags, window cleaning supplies, bottles of water, a fairly comprehensive first aid kit, quart of engine oil, a complete change of clothes (this has come in real handy when I arrived at a destination completely soaked to the skin in partly cloudy). Some of this stems back to my younger days where I had a policy of never paying more than $50 for a "new" car. You should see the "emergency kit" that I keep in my truck because I have more room, it is over 200 lbs of stuff....... I have never needed any of this for my bike, but it has been used on many other bikes.

Just out of curiosity, You said that you wired in the relay for the cruise. Did you by chance connect one of the wires to pin 87 of the relay instead of pin 87a? Did you ever try the test of connecting the green/yellow wire and the black/white wires together for testing to see if the rest of the system was even functional?

I have one whole side bag dedicated to nothing but tools and emergency type stuff.