Flyinfool

here is a complete guide to troubleshooting the charging system http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?81297-Testing-for-a-Battery-not-Charging

I don't know if it works the same for bikes, but with a car you can take the VIN to the dealer along with proof of ownership and they can cut you a new key that will match what was originally on the car. That original should fit the tank and bags. Once you have working keys you can either live with it or look into getting it rekeyed so they are all the same or having a dual key made.

E4 is almost always a bad solder joint on the CLASS board, usually at the connector pins. Easy fix if you know which end of the soldering iron to hold.

Glad you figured it out while there is still a week or two of riding season left before the flies.

Well I ordered some more parts today. The clips for attaching the fuel rail to the injector and the electrical connector with pigtails to fit the injector. I already have the injector.

For just one cell to be 3/4 empty, either you have a leak, or it was never filled full in the first place. When you refilled that cell did you fill it with battery acid or water? If acid leaked out or was never filled in the first place adding water will dilute the acid that is in there and it will not make power. If it was an issue with the bikes charging system it would have done the same thing to all of the cells, not just one. Once the battery is activated and then the plates get to see air, they will oxidize and the battery is usually toast. There are additives that you can put in the battery that can break down some of the oxidation, they may bring it back. First thing is to check the specific gravity to see if you now have a cell full of acid or a cell full of water.

It always takes them 3 years to iron out the bugs. So it will be the 2020 MKII.

It does matter if it is 1st or 2nd gen, that manual would be for an 07.

The problem is that when you load up the bike the weight of the passenger and cargo is almost 100% on the rear wheel. It is possible to exceed the weight rating of the rear tire while not adding much if any weight to the front tire. And if you load like Cowpuc with weight hanging way off the back you are actually reducing weight on the front tire while adding that weight in addition to the actual weight to the rear tire. I have not been able to find the individual axle ratings to know where we are starting from.

Here ya go. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?86-Known-Problems-and-things-to-look-for

@cowpuc There are a couple of the makers of the camper trailers that offer brakes as an option, but as said, most MC trailers do not have brakes. Most of the trailers that I have pulled behind my truck have had electric brakes and even there it makes a world of difference. I found a place that sells some little 7" electric brakes just right for out little MC trailers that I have been thinking of putting onto my MC trailer. I just need to get the time, money and ambition to all align at the same time. I am not sure how brakes vs no brakes will affect the handling of the bike. Applying the trailer brake will cause a weight transfer forward putting more tongue weight on the bike and the pull may be trying to pull the bike into a deeper lean in a corner. where with no brakes the trailer is trying to stand the bike up in a corner. I can see where getting the controller set correctly will be a critical adjustment on a bike. As with everything there are pros and cons. You just have to decide which pros and cons are the most important to you to decide which way is better for you. The discussion is about the same over swivel hitches. It boils down to personal preference.

I may have to look into these Shinkos as a lower cost option, I have never actually managed to wear out an E3, they always die of old age first, The E3 tires I have on the bike now have 16K miles on them and still have about 50% thread but they are now 6 years old. They were a couple of years old when I got them. But then my riding is only solo with a bunch of stuff packed in the luggage.

Gee, and my laptop that I bought back in 2000 is still running XP SP2. I also have updates turned off.

WOW that could have been ugly. Glad it turned out to be not to bad. You should take a real close look at the coupler. If it popped off it may be damaged or was never adjusted correctly in the first place.

In my book all vehicles are anemic, since the vehicle with enough power has never yet been built.....

Just some interesting tidbits I found while scanning the owners manual. Now I see that it also REQUIRES premium gas. Oh fun, you can lock the keys in the trunk, you can not get them back out without another key. With any luggage on board the max speed is 80 MPH. cowpuc ain't gonna like this one, the transmission is pressure lubricated, no coasting, or towing of the bike, with the engine off. WOW lots of maintenance required, Replace brake lines every 4 years replace master and caliper seals every 2 years. Sync injectors every 4K miles 3 oil drain points 2 fill point and a screw in dip stick and a screw on filter. Dip stick is in the left saddle bag. The front brake also activates both fronts and the rear brakes, and the rear brake activates the rear and the front right brake. Neither brake system will give full pressure on their own, you MUST use bot front and rear brakes together to get full pressure to either the front or rear brakes. If the "Smart Key" battery dies or it malfunctions the process for getting home is a pain. If you do not turn off your smart key and happen to be close enough to the bike for the key and bike to communicate, like in a restaurant where the bike is just on the other side of the wall, someone could jump on the bike start it and take off. once started it no longer needs the key until it is turned off, then it needs to see the key to restart.

For those looking for the manual, here is a link. I found one of the things I was curious of. MAX Load is only 408 lbs. There are a lot of couples and some solo's that will not fit under that weight, especially if loaded for a "transcontinental" trip. Google never heard of that rear tire size. you got people like @cowpuc that is on his 3rd rear tire this season, and he lives where there is no riding for half the year.

Oh geeezzz Now we all have to blush..................

A surprise huh. Does that mean he now has his buddy the goat to help with lawn care?

You need to check your states license out carefully, the Wisconsin version will get you into Canada but will NOT get you back into the USA.

My 1st gen with me on it is north of a half ton. I am guessing than an RSV with me on it is also north of a half ton. Neither of these would even need any gear added to reach a half ton. full gear would push that up more.

Normally the "keep alive" does not draw enough to light an incandescent bulb. Pulling the fuse for the "keep alive" circuit will also remove that from the equation.

I have a spare 1.21 gigawatt Flux capacitor left over from my Snowpercharger, so I can retrofit that in. But no warp drive probably means that there are also no dilithium crystals. I do not know if I can live without Warp Drive or Dilithium Crystals. It also looks like I will not be able to lay eyes on one till it hits the dealers floors. Fuel injection does not necessarily remove the need to sync, if there are multiple throttle bodies then they will still need to be in sync, I do not have any idea of what the air intake system is like on this bike. with the fly by wire throttle the computer just might be able to handle the sync also.

Are you sure that you do not have a continuity tester? Does your tester have a battery in it? Connect the lest light clip to the test light tip, does it light? With everything disconnected from the positive battery terminal and the test light connected between the neg cable and neg battery there is no possible way the light can be lit by the bike. There is something wrong with what you are doing, or something is getting lost in the explanation.

WAY to many people do not have properly aimed lights. If your low beam is lighting up the road way far ahead it IS aimed to hi, That is what the HI beam is for. I have seen many cars and truck from the factory that do not have the lights aimed correctly, The person in the factory literally has 45 seconds to aim the lights before the vehicle moves on down the assembly line. That person gets them close at best. Then if you add a bunch of weight in the back it will also raise the beam higher than it should be. Every time I change a bulb, even take one out and put it back in, I check the aim, it can and will move just due to manufacturing tolerances. Bright will not get you flashed, bad aim will, my truck has 110wats of HID low beams and I never get flashed even though they are many times brighter than stock, but they are aimed correctly. I had to lower the cutoff almost a foot below the factory setting to get it within spec at 20 feet, with the load of stuff that I normally carry in the back of the truck. PLEASE aim you lights correctly.