Flyinfool

Puc, There are pros and cons to everything. If there were one perfect solution everyone would use it. a front mounted engine might attack you in the event of a rear end collision, where the rear mounted engine might help protect you. One just never knows where the next crash is coming from.

Now if I just had 40 grand I did not know what to do with......................

Now that you both mentioned it, with the bike put to bed, I will not have much else to think about other than. There is always that 60° snow that Puc keeps harassing me to make for him........... I have never drained carbs, but I have always filled the tank with ethanol free gas loaded with Seafoam and Stabil. Its been working for a half century for me.

The LED will shine farther down the road because its low beam is aimed higher then the OEM high beam. So you are effectively riding around all the time, day and night, with your hi beam on. You can use your pics to set the top cutoff of the lo beam to the same height on the garage door as the OEM light was, ALL of the other drivers on the road will be happy if you do.

Started the process of putting it up for the winter. Done riding for this year.......... You think its a bit early? So do I, but I am still done for the year................

I did not pick on you in that other thread because I know there are differences between the 83 and my 88 and I was not 100% sure that yours was supposed to be the same as mine. My 88 does have the bent wire in the bolt, so that must have been the final design. I am not certain what the purpose of the bent wire is, but I did put it back where I found it when I had the flywheel off to replace my start clutch. My only guess as to the purpose of the wire is to control oil flow. If you bleed to much oil out the bolt then there is less oil pressure for the crank and rod bearings that are also fed from that same oil gallery. My WAG is that it was to hard to drill a tiny hole the length of that hardened bolt so they drilled a bigger one that was easier to push the drill bit thru from one side, and then added the wire to plug some of the hole back up to get the proper oil flow. But that is purely a WAG on my part. I seem to remember someone saying that the wire rattling around in there was to keep the oil passage from plugging up. My thought is that if your oil is dirty enough to be worried about plugging that hole, you will have much bigger problems than a burnt stator. Puc, I think this is the thread you referred to?

If you used an inappropriate oil that caused the clutch to start slipping, it takes a while to flush it all out from between the clutch plates. Also when you do an oil change there is a fair amount of oil that remains in the transmission, so the bad oil will then mix with the new oil. What kind of oil did you use the first time? Most oils that are made for cars are not compatible with a wet clutch system. If the oil advertises anything like friction modifiers or low friction, it is not compatible with the wet clutch. When you drain out the old oil because there is a problem with it, there is a second drain plug to drain the transmission, it is the bottom bolt on the middle gear cove and has a copper crush washer on it to seal the oil hole. It is not necessary to pull this plug for a normal scheduled maintenance oil change. When you bled the clutch, what did the fluid look like, it should be water clear, if not then you need to flush the system.

We may have to bribe @cowpuc with hot dogs, I will bring plenty.

With as expensive as these are I would do some checking to see if I could repair it. With 4 out all in a group I am thinking a broken solder joint or a bad resistor on the board. Both very cheap and easy fixes.

Yea baby....................... I'll be there, my birthday suit may be a bit wrinkled, but IF I bring enough Rum Balls and Pizza, no one will notice.......

Oh fun times, I am hoping my stator lives forever.................. So just how crispy was that stator in Tweeksis?

Know of any links? I could find nothing on google about ever putting water in gas except fore to don't do it. I did find some articles about when the lead was removed from the gas that it was compensated for by a change in the chemical makeup, water was not one of the chemicals listed.

Looked pretty much the same as any other rainy day here. We were at 87% coverage. it was lighter out than I expected even with the clouds. I watched some eclipse on the internet.

I never heard of them putting water in the gas when they went to unleaded. There was playing around with water injection where water would be sprayed into the carb as a mist but that is not the same as adding water to gas. Gas and water just do not mix. I have thought of doing this for my small engines where I will use less than 2 gallons per year. My lawn mower uses 1 gallon per year and my weed eater and chainsaw combine for another gallon per year.

Around here the nearest real gas is nearly 100 miles away, The airport will only fill an aircraft.

The whine comes from the gear mesh to the clutch basket, this is still spinning anytime the engine is running. There was a different clutch basket that can be installed and it did reduce the whine on SOME bikes not all. The whine is not a mechanical problem, the whiners last just as long as the quiet ones. But you do want to check it out to be sure that what you have is the clutch whine, if the whine is coming from the rear end that could be indicating a problem back there. The bottom line is if the whine bothers you then you will never be happy with the bike, if you can live with it knowing that it is just part of the normal sound that the bike makes, then you will love the bike.

Did some playing around with the design of the parts I have to make and it looks like it might be possible to squeeze it in under the edge of the tank on a 2nd gen. Before I can tell for sure someone will need to stop at my place with a 2nd gen so I can get a bunch of measurements and just see where stuff is. There is a lot more to it than just the carb mods, have to find a place for the fuel pump, pressure regulator, filter, pressure gauge, fuel manifold, O2 sensor, control box, TPS, MAP, fuse block, and a bunch of hoses and wires to connect it all together. 1st gen has a lot of room for all the "stuff" I might end having to make a different version for 1st gen vs 2nd gen. I hope not. but the 2nd gen parts would fit the 1st gen but are a lot harder to make, I have a part designed that I have no clue how to make, still thinking on that one. All of threads that are currently running with weird carb issues is what keeps me motivated on this project. I am getting closer to the point where it will just take more money for all the purchased parts. Did I ever mention that I hate carbs, they work on blue smoke and mirrors with some voodoo tossed in.................

Glad it was an easy fix. Now check the oil again to be sure the excess gas is not in the oil. also be sure no gas is in the cylinders before you try to start it, (pull plugs and crank it over) you do not want a hydro lock.

Sure now I think of a critical question to ask. And Puc would be the perfect person to ask it. Where can one get tires for this new beast? I checked all of the popular bike parts places and none of them list a 200/55R16 tire. I looked on the Bridgestone website and even they do not list the tire that is on this bike. Even google could not find this tire size any where other than the bike spec sheet on the Yamaha website. I was just reading that you are about to spoon on your 5th(?) tire for this year, you would have been dead and stranded if you had this new bike with NO tires available. That is like a new tire every 3 weeks. Supposedly they will be shipping these bikes next month, not everyone lives in the great white north and parks their bike for half of the year, to some September is the beginning of the riding season.

They do make bitty little tires that are rated for free way speeds.

So who will be the first of our members to actually ride one of these home so we can get a report of some actual CTFWing as opposed to a short demo ride? I am betting someone here already has a down payment on one.................

AND, if you are gonna open the starter up to clean it, do the ground wire mod while you are in there, it makes a big difference. Also do not forget to clean the mounting surfaces where the starter bolts to the block that is the ground path for the starter power and if it is dirty or corroded it can cause a weak starter. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?46806-First-Gen-Starter-Ground-Upgrade&highlight=starter+ground+wire

It sounds like you are making progress, just keep turning the screw for 3 and 4 until it finally moves, if you get to the end of travel maybe you were turning it the wrong way.

The RV plug is different than anything in your house but it is not 220. I have never seen an RV with 220 power, I am sure they are out there but it is not common, Shore power is typically a 30 A 110 plug. 220 may be more common on BIG RVs I have always been around smaller ones. I have run my RV using a 3500W 110V only gen for many years with the AC, fridge, coffee pot, and microwave all running at the same time thru an adapter (I now have installed an RV plug on my generator) and the adapter never even got warm, yes I do check. The reason many of them melt is because it is very common for the RVs contacts on the plug to be very dirty causing a high resistance. As for your original question of having 2 chargers connected. It depends. In order to charge at a higher amp the charger puts out more volts. So if you have one charging at 13.2 V and the other charging at 14.0. the bigger charger can be overloading the smaller one and burn it out. It depends on the charger, some have built in protection for this and some do not. The one I had did not. The way I had my RV set up was that I only connected 110V power using the shore power cable. I permanently connected the real charger to the shore power and then to the battery with a relay so that when there was no shore power the charger would not discharge the battery, (My charger has a parasitic draw from the battery if it is not connected to 110 power, or if I were to connect my really big charger direct to the battery then the small charger would be isolated. I also went in and disabled the wimpy built in charger by putting it on a switch that the switch could select one or the other, so that my charger would not fry the little one. It is not hard to hook up, it is harder to explain.

Wait, you can not get off the hook that easy! You got an 1989 Venture with only 206 miles on it? We need pics of this gem.