Flyinfool

Lots of questions. For the TCI. As long ass you will have it out open it up and there are 8 diodes often have the leads corrode which causes them to fail. When one of these diodes fails, they will fry the TCI. It is good PM to replace them while you are in there. There are a few articles on how to do this. It is not hard if you already know which end of the soldering iron to hold. As for its location. the stock wire harness is long enough to put the TCI on top of the air box which will keep it high and dry. To me that means it is always there in my way. I put my TCI in the left fairing, I have a standard so there is plenty of room and the stock wires will reach, but you will have to cut a hole in the inside of the fairing to pass the wires thru, I do not know if there is room in a Royal. I do not think that the stock wire harness will reach the right fairing. Try to unscrew the parts. On mine I was able to get one screw out, the other was already rounded out by the PO probably trying to use a #2 Phillips driver in a #3 JIS screw. So I had to cut one of the mounting ears off to get it out. For the valve cover gaskets and shims, Contact @skydoc_17 on this site to get the gaskets (you want the gaskets for the 2nd gen, they are easier to get in) He used to also have a kit with the shims and the shim tool to loan out to those that bought the parts from him. There is a lot less disassembly needed on the 1st gen to do the valves, If your carbs are fine, dont touch them they are old and you can mess up a perfectly good one by messing with it. On a 1st gen you only have to pull the side panels, the lower fairing and the 2 plastic parts that sit on top of the engine. while all that is apart is a good time to do a carb sync. As far as once you get the valve covers off the procedure for adjusting is exactly the same between 1st and 2nd gen.

The best split pea soup I ever had was a batch that my mom made back when I still just a little one. She was making it in the pressure cooker and the pressure relief malfunctioned so the safety plug blew. Next thing you know there was green slime dripping from the entire kitchen ceiling. By the time it was all cleaned up the best option for dinner was to take the family to McDonald's to help work on getting the FIRST billion burgers sold.

On these bike it is not the shim that wears, it is actually the valve seat and the head that wears, this allows the valve to seat deeper into the head as it wears and this is why the clearance gets smaller over time, the valve is moving closer to the cam. When you take out a shim and measure its thickness at different points from the edge to the center you will find that the amount of wear on the shim is really really small compared to the amount the valve clearance is out of spec. If you let it go long enough for the clearance to reach zero then the valve can no longer seal because it is being held open all the time and will leak hot gasses past burning up the valve. This is why the exhaust valves usually wear faster than the intakes, the cool intake air helps to cool the intakes so the exhaust seats wear faster cuz they are hotter.

Only a quarter? Did I get you in trouble?

I thought the maters looked familiar.................. I just brought in another batch today. and another half dozen Reapers. Did you put a reaper or 2 in there too?

Until you at least check the valve there is no way to know where you are starting from. On mine more than half of the valves were under the min and 2 were less than my thinnest feeler of 0.0015 inch (0.04mm). Had I not done the valves then I would probably have ruined a valve and/or head in the next 5K miles. I checked the valves at 60K Miles. I did not notice any issues in how the bike ran. Others have gone a quarter million miles with out ever checking the valves and not had an issue. Do You feel lucky?

OK I'll bite. So what is that bar across the top? It looks like the front is hinged with a pad lock and the rear is free to bounce up and down?

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

If you like Yamaha there is also the Tenere https://www.yamahamotorsports.com/adventure-touring I know nothing about it other than that it exists.

The weather stickers seem to be working again.

Funny you should mention that, Shoveling White Wash is great exercise.............. I think you might need some soon also................ You would not want to fall behind now would ya?

I was in a discussion just the other day about the future of electric cars and trucks since GM, Ford and Volvo all have recently announced that they expect to be all electric in the next 10 years. Now if a production electric car can do 0-60 in 3 seconds, and top out at 200, I wonder what an electric sport bike can do. Might even be able make @cowpuc and Maggi look like a couple of old V-Twins.

You had better not go sneaking thru here AGAIN without stopping to say hi.

Well it is Friday the 13th and I had my first PT session. The therapist was amazed at the lack of swelling and the amount of flex that I already have. She measured both feet to see how far they can move. They both matched in all motions except for how high I can raise my toes, as in stretching the Achilles. My good foot has 16° and the bad one is at 14°, so I only have 2° to go to reach my goal. The biggest part will be to get some strength back in that foot. My calf muscle is shrunk down to half the size it was and there is where near enough strength to hold my fat butt up. Since the injury happened back in mid Aug, I have put on 15 lbs that I need to get gone just to get back to where I was at, then still have to loose the 20 that I was already working on. It will sure help a lot once I can at least get back to walking. My old brown fat dog will like when I can get back to walking also.

I have installed a switch in my truck to turn the no fun nanny off. The factory give you a switch that is labeled as turning off the nanny but she is still there and messing with you. there is one fuse that when pulled will cut power to the nanny, so that is the wire that I can now switch off. I can now spin my tires and skid sideways till I blow something up or roll the truck.

When I bought my venture the sales man was a skinny 5 foot tall kid (late 20s early 30s). I doubt if he weighed 120 lbs. I asked about getting a bike this big on the center stand so he popped it up there like nuttin. Once I got it home and tried it a few times, I was like there is no way I am gonna get this thing on the center stand. I am 6'1" and 250 with a lot of it muscle. But that scrawny sales man had no problem. It took a bit of time for me to learn that it is all in the technique. Just like picking a bike up off the ground is all in the proper technique. Now I to can pop it up their with no issue at all. As mentioned, left handle bar grip in left hand, Right hand grip the passenger grab rail, I can not bend over far enough to grab the crash bar:whistling:). right foot goes on the center stand lever, have the right foot positioned so that the point of contact with the lever is directly below the ankle. If you try to use farther forward of your foot on the lever. when you put power from your leg, that power will be taken out because your calf muscle is not strong enough to hold it. Even if you do not think your foot is bending, it is. So for the lift, have your right arm near straight, put some light pressure on the lever and rock the bike back and forth till you can feel that both pads of the stand are touching the ground. then push down with your right leg while pulling the bike to the rear and it will just jump right up there. Maybe we can get the famous @cowpuc to make a vid...................

I am in the same issue where I think I will need to loose some bike weight due to my medical issues. I have been looking at the Yamaha FJR1300 it is 200 lbs lighter than the Venture with the same size engine and a bigger gas tank.

The easiest way is to clean off all of the oil and then it is much easier to see the leak. Not just possible but highly likely Real easy, get a new one, you are trying to get a 35 year old paper gasket to reseal. As mentioned make sure that the copper washer is under the head of the bottom screw. That bottom screw is drilled into the oil sump and the copper washer is to stop the oil from leaking out along the sides of that screw. Another common leak in that area is where the stator wires come out the top rear of the left engine cover. While you have the middle gear cover off you will be able to see where the wires come out of that cover.

With these bike if you are in 5th at under 60 MPH you are lugging the engine. Many of us will not use 5th until 65. That will give you an idea of the RPMs that these like to run at. If you are coming from a V twin, a V twin red lines close to where these V4s like to cruise at. As for the temp difference. With the engine completely cold, start it and let it idle and using your wet fingers see if the pipes all come up in temp at the same rate. the cool ones are the ones that are having an issue. If 2 are not heating up, it could be sync, it could be an ignition issue, or it could be a carb issue. When you said that you checked the temps with a heat gun and the front 2 were cooler, was that at idle or right after a run? The front 2 do get much better airflow so they may run a bit cooler under power. Syncing carbs is very easy to do, once you have seen it done once. That is why some dealers get big $$$ for it. By asking for a sync you are telling them you do not know a lot about the bike. That is why most members here will do it for the refreshments needed for the visit and then you will know how to be able to pay it forward and help the next person that needs a sync.

No I never got to touch off a 50 BMG. Yest the 50 BMG is the antiaircraft round from WWII. That is why there are so many tracer rounds of mil surplus. BMG stands for British Machine Gun The Raufoss round is an interesting round You have several incendiary chemicals to create a lot of heat to soften the target and then the solid tungsten carbide core to punch thru and let the fire into the hole coating everyone on the other side with molten metal.

Yest that is really $75 per round, each time you pull the trigger it is $75, http://www.gunbroker.com/item/704881398 A single round is $75.00 A box of 5 rounds is $375.00 A box of 25 rounds is $1875.00

There is no data on how many amps this diode can handle. You need to lookup data on the lights you have to find out how many amps they need and then size the Diode bigger by at least 25%.

If I am understanding your situation correctly, just add a diode to the controller output so that power can not back feed it.

Damage report? The deer was tasty. The shot annihilated both lungs and the heart was split in 2 with no exit wound. I did look but was unable to find the bullet. I was loading the 50 with 325 grain hollow point and launching with more muzzle velocity than the 44. As far as compared to my Colt Anaconda 8" 44 Mag. The 44 was noticeably less damage, the entry side lung was destroyed and the off side lung would have a hole in it but still resembled a lung, also no exit wound. For deer I was loading a 240 grain Hollow point. I did some experimenting with 300 grain hollow points but could not get the velocity high enough for good expansion. Bottom line, they both have close to the same effective range, with the 50 being able to reach out slightly farther. The range limitation was my accuracy with the guns not their knockdown power. I would expect clean kills with either out to 100 yards. My personal rule is the max deer hunting range of any weapon is that rage where I can keep ten of my shots in a 4 inch group. With either the 44 or the 50 that was about 70-80 yards depending on the wind.