Flyinfool

The diaphragms are easy enough to get to that it is worth taking a look at them before spending money. It is just the 4 screws that hold the cover on and the diaphragm is right there looking at you. You do not need to pull the carbs, and checking them will not mess up your sync job. To check then just slide them out and hold up to a light to see if there are any pin holes. any pinholes means to replace them. For temporary you can use a sealant to cover the pin holes. Each cover has one "security" screw. you can get a set of security drivers from Harbor freight or try to knock the pin out of the center of the screw. I would replace all 4 screws with new Stainless steel hex socket head screws.

Our little Chevy Trax has a 1400 cc motor with a little turbo. My demented little brain keeps looking at that little turbo and trying to figure out just where it might fit on my 1st gen. It is pretty close to the correct size. The Trax is slightly more displacement but the V4 can rev higher, so total airflow requirement is pretty close. Puc I still have to disagree with you on the "physics" of max RPM. There are engines out there that have a bigger bore and a longer stroke than the Yamaharley that will spin well over 5K.

That is one of the cleaner boards I have seen. Yes Puc guessed correctly, it is the 8 blue and white diodes that get replaced. Yours are not corroded at all. Many of them have the leads looking like a boll of cauliflower. But since you are there it would not hurt to replace them.

As for the battery light, some have gotten away with connecting that lead to 12v, others have fried the computer by connecting to 12v. It is best to use the resistor to be safe. Once it is connected you will never have to mess with it again. As far as the jumpering for the headlight conversion to LED. It all depends on exactly which bulb and how you are connecting it to the bikes wiring whether you will need to do the jumpers.

Another vote for ignition switch. It is a known issue on the 2nd gens.

Hey I resemble that comment......

The line in the first pic is close to where you need to make the cut. you do not need to make the cuts in the second pic, just extend that first pic cut around and down the sides. As for the location, where you took off the 4 nuts on the bottom of the board, make sure your cut on the case will allow you to get at the heads of those screws with a screw driver to hold them as you tighten the nuts. You want to cut close to the connectors but not into them. When you glue it back together you want to put all of the screws in so that it is all in the right place then apply the glue to the cut. you are revoming a saw thickness of material so that gap must be maintained for it all to fit back together. I used black Permatex RTV from any auto parts store to seal it all up.

Digi-Key Mouser Newark Radio Shack Any electronics place will have them, it is one of the most common diodes available.

I can see a venison cook off developing here............... I will host and judge it.

I hate gravel also, But IF I were to refuse to drive over it, I would never be able to leave my back yard. My choices are ride on pavement with gravel or don't ride at all ever again. I do not like either choice but one is less bad than the other.

I just did a quick look on ebay and found one. I do not recognize it as something I have seen before. It might be a home made one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-YAMAHA-VENTURE-ROYALE-XVZ1200-249-REAR-TRAILER-HITCH-TOW-HATCH-/202060816909?hash=item2f0bc3620d:g:TBQAAOSwHpdZwrD3&vxp=mtr You might want to check out http://www.motorcycle-hitch.com/Yamaha.html. They still list the one for you as available and new.

The diodes that you need are 1N400x The X can be any number and it will work fine. they are a buck each, I found a bag of 100 for $5 and you need 8 of them. It is a very common diode and I do use them for a lot of things. The nuts did not have to come off, they are just to hold the transistors to the board on the other side. There are 2 ways to get to the other side depending on your skill and preference. 1. Remove the solder from the connector pins so that you can lift the board off the pins. If you are good at soldering and desoldering this is not to bad, but remember that this is a 30 year old board and there is a good chance of damaging or lifting the pads in this process. Of course when you are done o nthe other side of the board you will also have to resolder all of the pins and repair any damaged pads. 2. make a shallow cut thru the case so that just the connector end will remain on the board. When you are done and and closing up the case you will have to seal the cut to keep moisture and dirt out. Be very careful to only cut through the case and not any of the components on the board. As soon as you get it opened put the 4 nuts back on to hold down the transistors. That brown gooey looking stuff all over is actually put their by the factory to help protect the board. When I put mine back together I sealed up the cut line in the case and the 2 air holes to help keep it dry in there.

Brass instruments are typically silver soldered together. You may be able to fix it by just cleaning the leak, apply flux and reheating the joint with a torch and reflowing the solder that is already there. You will want to rig up a jig to hold the parts in alignment while you are heating it so that nothing can move while the solder is liquid. If that does not work you will need to clean the leak as good as you can and then use a silver bearing solder and flux which will melt at soldering iron temps, (Stay-Brite is one brand at many hardware stores and hobby shops). You will need a very big soldering iron or you may have to use a torch to get the brass hot enough.

The main reason that I delinked was the parking lot at work and the alley behind my house. Both are paved and have a lot of loose gravel. I have had the front wheel lock up while applying only the rear brake way to many times. I have not completely dropped the bike yet but I have strained my leg stopping it from falling. I have had zero issues with gravel on pavement since delinking 5 years ago. As far as performance on normal roads, I did not notice any difference either. Should I ever get another linked bike that does not have ABS, delinking will the first thing I do.

He is very lucky to be alive after that hit.

That is exactly what happens in every case.

@cowPuc That is why myself and many others have delinked the brakes. So that they work just like what you want. Now the only limit to my braking ability is the friction between each tire and the pavement.

MKI and MKII are very different and no way to make one work on the other. For mine I ended up buying the front half of a Markland hitch and then welding up my own receiver hitch. If you can find the front half of a Markland hitch to fit your bike than the same receiver that I have will also work on yours. Some sneaky ebay sellers will sell the front and back half of the hitch separate to maximize their profit. I used that to my advantage and just bought the Front half to align with the mounting points on the bike. The seller was VERY POed that he now was stuck with a near worthless hitch part. He tried to tell me that ebay rules required me to buy the other half from him. EDIT Her is the one that I built http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?52757-Trailer-hitch-project-for-this-winter

There are people on this site that have done everything on your list. If you get stuck while doing something the solution is just a posting away. As mentioned above, unless you have a lot of spare cash to spen on a hobby, owning a 30 year old anything is probably not for someone that is not willing to dive in to do the work. Fixing up your bike will be a labor of love, not for profit, you will never get back the cash you spend. With all of that said, My vote is to keep it and let us help you along. As for tools, getting new tools is always a good thing, Many super special tools can be borrowed or rented. If you don't already have it, the first tool should be a good set of JIS screwdrivers. There are NO Phillips screws on your bike, they are all JIS.

Lots of questions. For the TCI. As long ass you will have it out open it up and there are 8 diodes often have the leads corrode which causes them to fail. When one of these diodes fails, they will fry the TCI. It is good PM to replace them while you are in there. There are a few articles on how to do this. It is not hard if you already know which end of the soldering iron to hold. As for its location. the stock wire harness is long enough to put the TCI on top of the air box which will keep it high and dry. To me that means it is always there in my way. I put my TCI in the left fairing, I have a standard so there is plenty of room and the stock wires will reach, but you will have to cut a hole in the inside of the fairing to pass the wires thru, I do not know if there is room in a Royal. I do not think that the stock wire harness will reach the right fairing. Try to unscrew the parts. On mine I was able to get one screw out, the other was already rounded out by the PO probably trying to use a #2 Phillips driver in a #3 JIS screw. So I had to cut one of the mounting ears off to get it out. For the valve cover gaskets and shims, Contact @skydoc_17 on this site to get the gaskets (you want the gaskets for the 2nd gen, they are easier to get in) He used to also have a kit with the shims and the shim tool to loan out to those that bought the parts from him. There is a lot less disassembly needed on the 1st gen to do the valves, If your carbs are fine, dont touch them they are old and you can mess up a perfectly good one by messing with it. On a 1st gen you only have to pull the side panels, the lower fairing and the 2 plastic parts that sit on top of the engine. while all that is apart is a good time to do a carb sync. As far as once you get the valve covers off the procedure for adjusting is exactly the same between 1st and 2nd gen.

The best split pea soup I ever had was a batch that my mom made back when I still just a little one. She was making it in the pressure cooker and the pressure relief malfunctioned so the safety plug blew. Next thing you know there was green slime dripping from the entire kitchen ceiling. By the time it was all cleaned up the best option for dinner was to take the family to McDonald's to help work on getting the FIRST billion burgers sold.

On these bike it is not the shim that wears, it is actually the valve seat and the head that wears, this allows the valve to seat deeper into the head as it wears and this is why the clearance gets smaller over time, the valve is moving closer to the cam. When you take out a shim and measure its thickness at different points from the edge to the center you will find that the amount of wear on the shim is really really small compared to the amount the valve clearance is out of spec. If you let it go long enough for the clearance to reach zero then the valve can no longer seal because it is being held open all the time and will leak hot gasses past burning up the valve. This is why the exhaust valves usually wear faster than the intakes, the cool intake air helps to cool the intakes so the exhaust seats wear faster cuz they are hotter.

Only a quarter? Did I get you in trouble?

I thought the maters looked familiar.................. I just brought in another batch today. and another half dozen Reapers. Did you put a reaper or 2 in there too?

Until you at least check the valve there is no way to know where you are starting from. On mine more than half of the valves were under the min and 2 were less than my thinnest feeler of 0.0015 inch (0.04mm). Had I not done the valves then I would probably have ruined a valve and/or head in the next 5K miles. I checked the valves at 60K Miles. I did not notice any issues in how the bike ran. Others have gone a quarter million miles with out ever checking the valves and not had an issue. Do You feel lucky?