Flyinfool

OK, here we go. 1. You used the example of the little 5 horse motor that you kept over revving and snapping rods. I would be surprised if the parts in that engine could even get to 4000 Feet Per Minute (FPM) piston speed. You also want to use a very modern example. How about the new Yamaharley since that is what started this whole thing in the first place. the Yamaharley has a stroke of 4.7 and a red line of 4750. Now lets apply a bit of math to those numbers. CUz we know I like numbers and you started with your math. First you need to get all of your units the same, so stroke ÷ 12 to get feet. Then you take your stroke in feet X Pi to get the distance the crank pin travels per revolution. Then you take the circumference the crank pin travels X RPM gives you the speed in FPM that the crank pin will be moving at. When the crank pin is at ~90° is when it is moving fastest in the direction of piston travel and that number is equal to the speed in FPM that you just calculated. so, 4.7 ÷ 12 X 3.14159 X 4750 = 5844 FPM So the Yamaharley has a piston speed of 5,844 FPM. OK so much for your 4000 FPM max piston speed theory. Lets take a look at Tweeksis 2.6 ÷ 12 X 3.14159 X 7500 = 5105 FPM Interesting, 35 year old technology seems to have a lower piston speed than newer, but still well over 4000. How about we try your little liter engine sitting in Maggi. Surely that is an example of using a small stroke to keep piston speed down. 2.1 ÷ 12 X 3.14159 X 11750 = 6460 FPM. Oh rats that sure verifies the 4000 FPM max theory....... This is for stock production street engines that are expected to, and do have a long service life. If you start applying race part technology to get the revs way up there, then even these numbers look pretty small. Now in your defense just cuz I am a nice guy. What you are remembering is from a half century ago. I would not fault your rememberer, it is just that technology has changed a smidgen in the last 50 years. That 4000 number you are remembering probably made a lot of sense back then. Metallurgy was no where near what it is now, and they did not have the modern methods of manufacturing the parts out of these new and wonderful alloys. Then we have newer and better lubricants to keep the metal parts from touching each other so that these higher speeds can be safely achieved. I did not know much of anything about engines back then I did not start to learn about such things until I was in my late 20s so I have a more recent frame of reference than you. You are also pretty close on what you have noticed about where torque and HP curves cross. The actual crossing point is 5252 RPM in a well tuned engine. That is a real number, somewhat irreverent to the discussion but none the less a real number. Does that mean that that should be red line and there is no reason to take the RPM any higher than that? Heck no, For sure don't try to tell Maggi that, she will hurt you if you try to keep her under 5252 RPM, so will Tweeksis. Here is an interesting read on torque vs HP. http://www.lainefamily.com/hp.htm

Some do sound when in video mode. I know that mine does. Mine can be set to instead of a picture it will take a video from 5 seconds to 1 minute each time it is triggered, but you better have a big memory card and good batteries.

You still got cameras up to document this?

Toooooo Late. The wheels are in motion and they have an unstoppable amount of kinetic energy. The snow is a coming and there is noting gonna stop it.http://smileys.smilchat.net/smiley/seasons/hiver/flocon-10.gif http://smileys.smilchat.net/smiley/seasons/hiver/flocon-10.gif http://smileys.smilchat.net/smiley/seasons/hiver/flocon-10.gifhttp://smileys.smilchat.net/smiley/seasons/hiver/boule-neig.gif It will be fun to see if this new 40° stuff holds up. Maybe try again this weekend..................http://smileys.smilchat.net/smiley/seasons/hiver/deblneige.gif

Yup that's my story and I'm sticking to it. It is all Mr @cowpuc fault. He is the one that has tasked me with finding a way to make it SNOW at 60°F. Well with all this time that I have had to sit around and do nothing but think about things, I will be doing an interim trial run tomorrow nite and see if we can get the first snow of the season even though it will sill be a little over 40°F. Yea I know that 40° is a long way from 60°, but we have to take baby steps. Someday Mr Puc will get his wish for the elusive 60° http://smileys.smilchat.net/smiley/seasons/hiver/flocon-12.gifhttp://smileys.smilchat.net/smiley/seasons/hiver/flocon-12.gifhttp://smileys.smilchat.net/smiley/seasons/hiver/deblneige.gif http://smileys.smilchat.net/smiley/seasons/hiver/boule-neig.gif http://smileys.smilchat.net/smiley/seasons/hiver/flocon-12.gif

OOpie, I stuttered....... Must be gettin slippery

The diaphragms are easy enough to get to that it is worth taking a look at them before spending money. It is just the 4 screws that hold the cover on and the diaphragm is right there looking at you. You do not need to pull the carbs, and checking them will not mess up your sync job. To check then just slide them out and hold up to a light to see if there are any pin holes. any pinholes means to replace them. For temporary you can use a sealant to cover the pin holes. Each cover has one "security" screw. you can get a set of security drivers from Harbor freight or try to knock the pin out of the center of the screw. I would replace all 4 screws with new Stainless steel hex socket head screws.

Our little Chevy Trax has a 1400 cc motor with a little turbo. My demented little brain keeps looking at that little turbo and trying to figure out just where it might fit on my 1st gen. It is pretty close to the correct size. The Trax is slightly more displacement but the V4 can rev higher, so total airflow requirement is pretty close. Puc I still have to disagree with you on the "physics" of max RPM. There are engines out there that have a bigger bore and a longer stroke than the Yamaharley that will spin well over 5K.

That is one of the cleaner boards I have seen. Yes Puc guessed correctly, it is the 8 blue and white diodes that get replaced. Yours are not corroded at all. Many of them have the leads looking like a boll of cauliflower. But since you are there it would not hurt to replace them.

As for the battery light, some have gotten away with connecting that lead to 12v, others have fried the computer by connecting to 12v. It is best to use the resistor to be safe. Once it is connected you will never have to mess with it again. As far as the jumpering for the headlight conversion to LED. It all depends on exactly which bulb and how you are connecting it to the bikes wiring whether you will need to do the jumpers.

Another vote for ignition switch. It is a known issue on the 2nd gens.

Hey I resemble that comment......

The line in the first pic is close to where you need to make the cut. you do not need to make the cuts in the second pic, just extend that first pic cut around and down the sides. As for the location, where you took off the 4 nuts on the bottom of the board, make sure your cut on the case will allow you to get at the heads of those screws with a screw driver to hold them as you tighten the nuts. You want to cut close to the connectors but not into them. When you glue it back together you want to put all of the screws in so that it is all in the right place then apply the glue to the cut. you are revoming a saw thickness of material so that gap must be maintained for it all to fit back together. I used black Permatex RTV from any auto parts store to seal it all up.

Digi-Key Mouser Newark Radio Shack Any electronics place will have them, it is one of the most common diodes available.

I can see a venison cook off developing here............... I will host and judge it.

I hate gravel also, But IF I were to refuse to drive over it, I would never be able to leave my back yard. My choices are ride on pavement with gravel or don't ride at all ever again. I do not like either choice but one is less bad than the other.

I just did a quick look on ebay and found one. I do not recognize it as something I have seen before. It might be a home made one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-YAMAHA-VENTURE-ROYALE-XVZ1200-249-REAR-TRAILER-HITCH-TOW-HATCH-/202060816909?hash=item2f0bc3620d:g:TBQAAOSwHpdZwrD3&vxp=mtr You might want to check out http://www.motorcycle-hitch.com/Yamaha.html. They still list the one for you as available and new.

The diodes that you need are 1N400x The X can be any number and it will work fine. they are a buck each, I found a bag of 100 for $5 and you need 8 of them. It is a very common diode and I do use them for a lot of things. The nuts did not have to come off, they are just to hold the transistors to the board on the other side. There are 2 ways to get to the other side depending on your skill and preference. 1. Remove the solder from the connector pins so that you can lift the board off the pins. If you are good at soldering and desoldering this is not to bad, but remember that this is a 30 year old board and there is a good chance of damaging or lifting the pads in this process. Of course when you are done o nthe other side of the board you will also have to resolder all of the pins and repair any damaged pads. 2. make a shallow cut thru the case so that just the connector end will remain on the board. When you are done and and closing up the case you will have to seal the cut to keep moisture and dirt out. Be very careful to only cut through the case and not any of the components on the board. As soon as you get it opened put the 4 nuts back on to hold down the transistors. That brown gooey looking stuff all over is actually put their by the factory to help protect the board. When I put mine back together I sealed up the cut line in the case and the 2 air holes to help keep it dry in there.

Brass instruments are typically silver soldered together. You may be able to fix it by just cleaning the leak, apply flux and reheating the joint with a torch and reflowing the solder that is already there. You will want to rig up a jig to hold the parts in alignment while you are heating it so that nothing can move while the solder is liquid. If that does not work you will need to clean the leak as good as you can and then use a silver bearing solder and flux which will melt at soldering iron temps, (Stay-Brite is one brand at many hardware stores and hobby shops). You will need a very big soldering iron or you may have to use a torch to get the brass hot enough.

The main reason that I delinked was the parking lot at work and the alley behind my house. Both are paved and have a lot of loose gravel. I have had the front wheel lock up while applying only the rear brake way to many times. I have not completely dropped the bike yet but I have strained my leg stopping it from falling. I have had zero issues with gravel on pavement since delinking 5 years ago. As far as performance on normal roads, I did not notice any difference either. Should I ever get another linked bike that does not have ABS, delinking will the first thing I do.

He is very lucky to be alive after that hit.

That is exactly what happens in every case.

@cowPuc That is why myself and many others have delinked the brakes. So that they work just like what you want. Now the only limit to my braking ability is the friction between each tire and the pavement.

MKI and MKII are very different and no way to make one work on the other. For mine I ended up buying the front half of a Markland hitch and then welding up my own receiver hitch. If you can find the front half of a Markland hitch to fit your bike than the same receiver that I have will also work on yours. Some sneaky ebay sellers will sell the front and back half of the hitch separate to maximize their profit. I used that to my advantage and just bought the Front half to align with the mounting points on the bike. The seller was VERY POed that he now was stuck with a near worthless hitch part. He tried to tell me that ebay rules required me to buy the other half from him. EDIT Her is the one that I built http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?52757-Trailer-hitch-project-for-this-winter

There are people on this site that have done everything on your list. If you get stuck while doing something the solution is just a posting away. As mentioned above, unless you have a lot of spare cash to spen on a hobby, owning a 30 year old anything is probably not for someone that is not willing to dive in to do the work. Fixing up your bike will be a labor of love, not for profit, you will never get back the cash you spend. With all of that said, My vote is to keep it and let us help you along. As for tools, getting new tools is always a good thing, Many super special tools can be borrowed or rented. If you don't already have it, the first tool should be a good set of JIS screwdrivers. There are NO Phillips screws on your bike, they are all JIS.