Flyinfool

I have been reloading for 20+ years now. I shoot mostly rifles so I do not have a progressive loader. I load for accuracy so I weigh out each and every load of powder. To me the whole reloading process is a form of relaxation, I enjoy doing it. That alone makes it worthwhile to me. There is a good size investment to get started but after that it depends on the caliber as to how much if any you can save. There are pros and cons to almost everything, you have to do what is right for you. I also have a lot of fun experimenting with different loads to try to achieve a specific performance. You have to price out the components that you plan to use to see if there will be any savings for what you intend to load. A lot can also depend on your specific firearm, all factory ammo is loaded light enough to be safe in the crappiest gun being produced. If you have a much better stronger gun then you can load a lot hotter than the factory can, just do not share your ammo with others who might put it in a lessor gun.

Last I heard he was still doing these. You might want to send him a PM and/or an email.

I am just saying that in all applications that require any type of lubricant, I always have used what was recommended by the manufacturer of the equipment and have never been let down yet. There are times where I want to alter the design characteristics of something, and sometimes like in the case of forks, you need to bump up or down a weight. But I stay with the same type of oil. Some engineer spent a lot of time choosing an oil and the hole sizes in the valving to all work together under the conditions of this specific job. yes you might save $5 on the oil IF what you picked works the first time and you do not have to try something else, then you would be in the hole dollar wise. Fork oil is good for many years so that $5 savings works out to less than $1 per year savings. Is it really worth it to be experimenting. Unless of course you are experimenting for the fun of experimenting, then forget everything I just said. Cuz messing around with stuff is also fun, not economical, but still fun. We all know that I am not afraid to mess with things and change the way that it was designed to work and my mods are rarely the cost effective way to.

Getting smooth airflow through the manifold in that small of space is the hard part. My guess is that you will loose some top end power. But by all means go for it, Who knows your way might just be way better than my way? I am by no means an expert on fueling an engine. If you do it please post progress pics.

Glad to see you are on the way back. With the battery in the stock location it is a common upgrade to use #4 AWG welding cables for the starter. If you are moving the battery to the rear, or even to the side car I would consider going up to #2 AWG welding wire. OK silly side car question, I have often heard people refer to "flying the car". I have seen photos of the side car up off the ground in both right hand and left hand turns. Which if either is "correct" and is either considered the safe or proper way to take a fast corner?

My view is that fork oil is not that much more expensive to use and is specifically engineered for the job. It is not like you are racing the RSV and changing fork oil a couple of times a day that cost will add up. Fork oil is good for years at a time. if you choose the wrong fluid to put in there you could be putting your life at risk to save $2 a year. is it really worth it. Most venture owners have ended up between 10 and 15W fork oil, I think that putting in 50W will be almost like a solid front suspension. When looking at a multi weight oil like 20W50 ignore the first number. that first number is its weight at -13°F and the top number is its performance at 302°F, I doubt if you will be riding at either temp so why rely on viscosity modifier additives that will break down over time, as opposed to using the right oil to start with. http://www.belray.com/what-exactly-do-multi-visc-designations-mean

I have to join the group to see the content. Can you copy the pic and repost it here?

This is all part of why I think my next bike will be more in the sport tour arena. And this might be coming sooner than later since with this new foot I kind of need a lighter bike. I still like the looks of the FJR, it is not in the same area of HP or torque as this new Kawi but it is not a slouch either. I guess I would have to sit on this new Kawi to decide, it looks like it will be to close to the riding position of a sport bike for this old body to bend to.

I am also taking the Tamsulosin. It does help a lot, In the 3 years that I have been taking it I have not noticed any of the side effects. I also went thru the whole range of the scare followed by all of the tests. My case was started by extreme amounts of blood coming from where it shouldn't. Looked more like tomato juice than P. This got my fun started in the ER. From there I was sent to the urologist. He used the progressive approach starting with a PSA and a finger check, the finger said my prostate was very big but felt smooth, I'll take his word for that) BUT, I rang the bell at 14.5 on the PSA. He said it could be an infection so started me on antibiotics, for 2 weeks then another PSA to see if it changed, it did, it was up to 15. So then he ordered a cystogram, that was not fun but it also found no issues. The ER did a CT scan while I was there but they were looking more for kidney stones so I had to get another CT scan but with dye this time. since all of that testing showed noting that could cause the blood that I was getting my doc moved on to an ultrasound, this does not sound bad till you find out just HOW they do the ultrasound. The first part sounded easy enough, take a heavy duty antibiotic to prevent infection, first it was the Urologist and my cardiologist fighting over which antibiotic to give me, the one that the urologist wanted would react with my heart meds and could stop my heart. they finally agreed on a med and it was one that had to be administered 1 hour before the procedure by forcing in in thru an IV for a half hour. I did learn a couple of hours later that I was allergic to that drug, that was its own can of worms and another trip to the ER. So they started with the ultra sound to measure the prostate and document it for future reference and while they were in there they took a dozen needle biopsy. Again everything came back negative. This all happened over the course of a month. by this time all bleeding had stopped on its own. After all of that It was decided that I simply have good old BPH. A normal prostate is about the size of a walnut, mine was about the size of a baseball. So he added a drug called Finasteride to my list of daily drugs. Finasteride is an interesting drug. It commonly prescribed under its common name of Rogaine. Yup the stuff to put hair back on your head. But for putting hair on your head they do 1mg at $10 per pill, for the prostate they do 5mg at $0.25 per pill. After 2 years of that one I do have a nice full head of hair.................. And my PSA went back down to a more normal 3.4, and the docs finger says that my prostate is back to a normal size. And yes the Finasteride plus Tamsulosin did help a bunch with the sequel to the Yalar River.................

Would that be again, yet, or still???? I loose track.................... Does this mean that I was removed from the triple secret probation from last winter????

That same storm came thru here before you got it, but it was not as bad here. We only had a bout a half inch of rain and 30-40 wind. On the other hand it is SNOWING out right now!!!!!

If you get your gaskets and stuff from him, Skydoc_17 has a shim kit and tool that he lends out.

Bummer, I can't see it either.

Glad to hear that progress is being made. You do know that typing on this site is actually good therapy for the fine motor skills of the forearms???? Therefore you can not leave this family, your stuck with us. Might as well just get used to it and keep typing.

Yes your first photo showing D1 is the correct orientation. It also looks like the top pad in that photo is one of those damaged pads I was referring to, that will need to soldered on both sides of the board and may even need some repair wire added.

In looking at it closely slowed way down, when the 2 riders disappear around the curve they are well spaced, not rally tailgating. The as they come back into view, bike one already has his front wheel off the road and past the point of no return, but his rear wheel is still on the road and the bike is nearly pointed perpendicular to the road. Bike 2 has his right foot on the ground and not on the brake, and follows into the ditch. Due to bike one stopping in the middle of the blind curve everyone behind was hard on the brakes in a curve, which is not the best way to get through a curve. Bike 2 just never expected the stop and ended up to close to avoid bike one. My theory is that bike one slowed to a near stop at the apex of the corner, bike 2 was not able to react fast enough and contact was made, that contact disrupted both bikes enough to end up in the ditch. Hows that for a new twist and a WAG.

Hope everyone is about done with this and that you have dodged the bullet. Feed them each a C.R. Pepper, that should kill any bugs and get them up and moving................ Just have the fire extinguisher handy...............

The silver band of the diode must be oriented to match the symbol printed on the board. The symbol on the board has a triangle and a bar, The silver end of the diode goes on the side of the symbol with the bar. When you go to solder these back in, make sure to solder on both sides of the board if there is a circuit on both sides of the board. If you ripped any of the pads off the board in the process of removing the old diodes, make sure to use a bit of fine copper wire to make the connection that was lost. Sometimes with really old boards the solder vac will work better if you first add a bit of fresh solder to the joint. I know it sounds backwards to add more solder to a joint that you are trying to remove the solder, but it does help. Just like some times tightening a stuck bolt will help to get it to break loose.

Congradulations

The time that you were running high voltage you were stressing a lot of things. The ignition switch would be one of the things taking a lot of abuse, and we already know that it a weak link when everything is working correctly. Because of the high voltage in the system the amps going thru the switch are also high, it is the amps that take out the switch. So it is very realistic the the switch as damaged by the high voltage/amps and it now gave up. On the other hand, never underestimate the importance of good grounds, it is entirely possible that some weak grounds were fighting the high voltage to help save some of the other components on the bike.

Last winter I did hit Phoenix AZ a couple of times and even hit LA once. Range is not the issue, did you ever try to aim a snow flake over thousands of miles? Often I miss and cowpuc is usually the beneficiary. Then there is the fallout when I try to loft it up over his house while sending some joy to the northeast. Puc even posted that vid the other day showing just how ecstatic him and Tippy were to see some flakes. As far as thinking that I am and even calling me "one sick puppy", you got to stand in line on that one buddy.

Wait just a cottin pickin minute here. You said that you were not going to gut it out? That means that you are leaving the tenderloins behind!!!!!! The tenderloins are very rarely damaged by a car and they sure are yummy. Then you still have to split it up the back to get the back straps out that might just be the second best part of the deer. Do I gots to drag you up to a deer camp to show ya how its done. Bet you wish you had some snow to help cool down that meat................. I'll get right on it....................

Now I have to go look, I don't think mine has a gearbox, it has step pulleys for a belt drive.

Those fins are totally fake and their only purpose in life is to hold in the rubber plugs. Otherwise they are strictly cosmetic. So feel free to modify them to your taste. But as mentioned above, they either must be there or some other means must be provided to prevent instant coolant loss when the plugs blow out. Not to mention that that hot coolant will dump right on your legs.

The instructions do not mention anything about adjusting the blade to make square cuts. But there are adjustments on the 6 bearings that hold the blade straight. Mine started to cut crooked when it hit around 20 years old. I had to replace and dial in the 6 blade tracking bearings and it was good as new again. I can not vouch for the quality of the newer ones. but when I look at them the castings for all brands of these small saws look to be from the same pattern, even tiny imperfections are the same in all of the brands. I do not know if the complete saw is made identical for all brands or just that they use the same raw casting. But if you look at the pics close, the only difference you see between brands is the color and the decals.