Flyinfool

I heard that................... I was getting better at lofting stuff right over your house to get to other destinations to the south.

I fully understand the safety aspects of these features. But the commercials on tv show them saving the bacon of an inattentive driver and to me the tv ads are saying that it is OK to not pay attention while driving cuz the car might save you from yourself. If there is one thing people do NOT need is to be told that is is now OK to not pay attention to driving. Self driving cars is a whole different discussion. Until I see how this technology handles a good Wisconsin blizzard, or some nice fresh black ice, or a curve with gravel on the road, or the ball that rolls out from between parked cars with the invisible kid in hot pursuit, or the various critters that can rump in front of you, just the thought of a self driving car scars me.

What worries me with all this new computer intrusion into cars is the potential for hacking. All brands have something similar to On Star where the car can be accessed remotely. But now that cars have a fly by wire throttle, brakes, steering, and most all of the controls in the car, what is the possibility that it is not far off where hackers will create a car virus that when the car hits 60 mph the throttle goes wide open and the steering turns hard left and the brakes, shifter and power switch are disabled? ANY system that can be accessed, can be hacked. Hackers can and have already unlocked the doors and started the engine. Even though my truck is still fairly new (by my standards, its a 2011) I am thinking of getting a new one that does not yet have the ability for the computer to turn the steering wheel for me. The idea that the computer might think it knows better than me how to handle an approaching emergency absolutely terrifies me. The ditch, or moving into the oncoming lane might just be a much better option than what is coming at me head on with a closing speed of 120 MPH. I do know how to parallel park, I do not need the car to do it for me, I can also back up a trailer just fine all by myself. On the other hand I do like my creature comforts, I like my power seats windows and locks. Cruise control and the new radar cruise that can slow me down to match the speed of the car in front of me, I do have a size 14 foot that is made of lead.........a nice sound system is a must. It really irks me that the way some of these new features like automatic braking or lane assist are advertised to be able to save you wile you are doing something OTHER than driving the car. I only see these things as making people feel safe to be not paying attention and is in the not to distant future are going to get people killed.

Somehow I have a sneaking suspicion that some stuff is getting deep in here.............

I know nothing. Cuz I still can not view your vids in HTML-5. I guess that proves that I am INNOCENT.

Welcome back you old Sillypuc you. You know we miss you. We were getting ready to send the troops out looking for you. I even started this thread just to see if I could rattle your cage and get enough and :stickpoke:and maybe even some to wake you up from hibernation. Looks like it worked. Glad you are getting better again. But I am getting bored around the house. And we do have this cold snap coming in............... Maybe time to see whats cooking out in the shed.

Ford is also launching the same thing. In a couple of years everyone will have it. Hopefully the hackers will find a way to turn it off as they have done with many other "built in 'features' " I was looking at switching from GM to Ford until I found out they made extra effort to make the eco boost engines very quiet so that they can pipe in a synthetic sound of a healthy V8 through the cabin speakers. They are doing this on the Mustang and the pickups. This engine noise comes in even if the audio system is turned off. Just like door chimes and other alarms still play even with the sound off. ALL of the car makers are going backwards in engine tech. That is why you see all of the transmissions with so many gears. the new engines have a very narrow torque band so they need a lot of gears to try to stay in the sweet spot of rpm.

Simple solution, leave NO TP in the bathroom, that will get their attention.

A lot of people use this method of shopping. Then they are the first to complain when the store closes. If I am going to go thru the effort to drive to a store to try things on or get other hands on with a product, that service is worth something to be and I will pay more to support that convenience. I do not end up buying a lot of stuff on line.

Yup I think that the old @cowpuc and I may be in trouble. I was unable to make it to the UP of Michigan to seal up @saddlebum back door. I looks like he is about to take full advantage and swing that puppy WIDE open and let an arctic blast out and headed this way. And Mr Cowpuc knows what happens when that Saddlebum lets out with a blast of cold air.

As long as the oil you use matches all of the designations in your owners manual, I do not think their is such a thing as a "bad" oil out there. If there was they would be out of business in very short order. That does not mean that some oils are not better than others in some specific applications. But there is a good chance your bike will not know the difference.

Yes you need to sure that you have good solder connections to both sides of the board. If you fire it up in the bike with a bad solder joint it will be the same as a blown diode and it will fry the TCI. Normally the holes are plated thru so that both sides of the board are electrically connected thru each hole this is why the factory only has to solder the back side of the board. once you damage a pad you are breaking the connection that goes through the hole in the board so it is now up to you to make sure that you are properly connected on both sides. As for getting Kero, I still get it at the local gas station just down the block. they have no sign out, you just have to spot the pump hiding in the back corner of the lot. https://www.yellowpages.com/owego-ny/kerosene-gas-stations

This sounds like it will be a fun thread. I love when people do things that are different.

I think the pics are upside down because the bike is kind of sky blue so the puter thought that should be up???????? That sure sounds like a heck of a deal on a nice looking bike. If it has been sitting a while, check the date codes on the tires to be sure that they are not to old to ride safely.

Sorry I disappeared for a bit, was out chasing deer for 2 weeks..... On that board, the green areas are copper circuits, the "black" areas are the parts with no copper. Some of the pads have a brown ring around the wire, these are damaged pads. The brown ring is where the copper used to be but it got pulled off with the old diode lead. This means that there is nothing there to solder to. Some of the circuits connect on the top of the board and some connect on the bottom and a few connect on both sides of the board. So if there is a green area that runs up to a lead, you must make sure that the lead is soldered to that copper under the green. You may need to use a razor blade or Xacto to VERY GENTLY scrape some of the green paint off of the copper next to the lead so that you can solder to it. you need to examine each lead to which sides of the board it actually connects to circuits and then make sure it still does after soldering.

Since my 1st gen is not a V twin I tried the Amsoil 10W-40 which is the recommended weight for the engine. It worked fine except that all the seals started to leak. Next oil change I switched back to the old oil and the leaks stopped. I have tried several brands of synthetics in my 1st gen. They all leak, Dino oil does not leak.

For the cost it better apply its self.

One good kick may have sheared the key on the flywheel and caused a change in timing. Check to see if the key slots are still lined up.

In Wisconsin they used to pick up all the dead deer but that got to be to expensive. 65,000 in 2016 deer is a BIG pile of deer to dispose of. Now WI just leaves the carcasses on the side of the road and lets nature do the disposal.

The tip over relay and switch only kills the fuel pump. I hate intermittent electrical gremlins, they can be the hardest to find. I just hope it does not leave you stranded somewhere out in the boonies. Pack some food, water, and a charged cell phone..............

My last ride of the year was back on Aug 21. Was just my 22 mile each way commute to work, but it was at least a ride. Then I blew out my Achilles tendon on the 22nd getting the bike out for a ride to work, there will be snow ice and salt on the roads before I am able to even think about getting the bike out again. I hope to be mobile enough to get the winterizing of the bike done this coming weekend.

It is a lot easier to have a level of preparedness out in the country. I live in the big city and it will take a completely different stratagy for survival when the stuff hits the fan. If it is a real WWIII, then I will not have to worry about it. Milwaukee has a LOT of military contractors and is on the first strike list of all the nuclear nations. So I and my family will be vaporized before we know there is a problem, and never have to worry about it for more than a couple of seconds. On the other hand if it is not an all out nuclear fiasco, bullets food and water will become the new currency. The first thing I will do is get as far from the city as possible. I can disappear into the deep woods and live off the land just fine. But because I would need to be mobile on a moments notice and could take no more that what fits in my truck with me. A huge store of anything will do no good. My truck can go 600 miles on a tank of gas, I never let it get below half a tank. both for bug out reasons and it is not good for the fuel system to run it below a half tank. I can load my needed gear and head out of town in just a few minutes if need be. I avoid over sanitizing myself so that my immune system is always running full speed. Some think it is gross, but it does make a difference. If you are never exposed to germs your immune system will not know what to do when one does show up. It is getting obvious in today's youth.

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that: Just ask @cowpuc about people that thought they got a lot of snow.............

As long as the wattage of the LED is not more than the bulb it is replacing then the wiring is compatible. Do not make the assumption that LED means low power, some (not even most) of the high brightness LEDs use MORE power than the stock bulb. The other big thing to consider is that many LED headlight bulbs will not focus correctly in your stock housing so they will look really good up close but suffer trying to get light down the road, and more importantly an improperly focused and aimed headlight will blind oncoming drivers where you really do not want someone coming at you with a 120 MPH closing speed with their eyes closed because you light is not right. Before you do the switch park the bike in the driveway and mark the spot it is parked, turn on the headlight so that it is shining on a wall or the garage door, make the height of the top of the beam, now after changing to the LED put the bike in the same position and check the height of the beam, make sure that all of the bright parts of the beam are below the mark that you made on the wall.

I found that that start signal goes a lot of places before anything happens. When you say it would not start, did it turn over but not start or did it do nothing when you pushed the start button? The obvious first culprits are the kill switch, the start switch, and the side stand switch. Clean each of these. On mine I also had an intermittent kill and no crank caused by a bad factory crimp on the Red/White wire that goes to the kill switch the bad crimp was in the connector inside of the faring. Accessible thru the headlight or with the wind shield and instrument cover off.