Flyinfool

I guess it is bit easier for me. I am not a sentimental person so I do not need to hold on to sentimental items. When I go thru an area that is really bad it is a simple rule. Unless real vale as in I could sell it for real cash, and I have not used it in a year, then I really do not need it. Things like the box full of chunks of wood that you keep just in case yo need a little piece for something, I found that when I need a piece of wood I do not go to that box, I go to the lumber yard, so the box went away. My basement now looks like one of the hoarder TV shows, I am getting real close to doing another purge, who knows what neat toys will end up gone.

I like it! Nice job. We are getting another 6 inches this weekend:snow2: Don't you dare wake me up...............

Good luck with your new adVenture. As SilvrT mentioned hiring that first employee is scary if you get to that point. I have a friend that is a great entrepreneur, he has started several very successful businesses that grew until they just got to be way to much work for one person. He could never make that leap to hire help, and the service of his business would drop due to being late with stuff and finally get its rep from great to bad and close down.

I guess it depends on what just what you were trying to accomplish with the relay. If you just want it so that the grip heat power is not going thru the ignition switch, this will accomplish that task. If you were wanting to not have the big power going thru the hi, lo, off switch then you would need 2 relays to do that. The only thing I would do different is to have the fuse between the relay and the battery instead of after the relay. With the fuse after the relay, you have unprotected components and wires. Fuse should always be the first thing the power goes through.

Spiders? Cool I'll bring George, my pet tarantula.

On my 1st gen I did a power and ground strips for connecting accessories. Half of the power strip is switched power that only comes on when the ignition is in run or accy, the other half is direct battery power. all of this is thru a 40A maxifuse. This way there is just the one extra wire and one extra ground wire to the battery. I never frame ground anything if I can help it. I prefer to run real ground wires. Not sure what the similarities are, but I did a power strip on a RSTD and put it next to the battery under the seat. Worked out great.

Since HD is a local company here in Milwaukee, we get a lot more scoop every time someone farts at Harley. The local news is reporting that the KC plant closing is because HD profits are down 80% from same period last year. Gee I did not think the Yamaharley would hit them that hard..................

1. 75 - 80 should be no problem at all, I am guessing that you are running on 3 cylinders. These things run amazingly smooth on 3. 2. some light popping on decel is very common, Any pinhole leaks in the exhaust and the decel diaphragm in the carbs are the 2 most common culprits. 3. and 4. It is very possible that the switch contacts are dirty, It is part of my annual spring maintenance to clean the switched on my 1st gen, I am not sure if yours are as easy to service. All rubber hoses are suspect, especially the rubber brake lines.

To do the bike wiring before you get the trailer will make it easier to find a trailer cheap. If you wire the bike for a 5 wire trailer you will find great deals all over the place on 4 wire trailers, or if you wire the bike as 4 wire, you will be flooded with fantastic deals on 5 wire trailers....... And I am thinking of converting mine from 4 wire to 6 wire......

Not near that expensive. The solder...https://www.amazon.com/Solder-Aluminum-Metal-Repair-0-25oz/dp/B000BUUTPU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517235814&sr=8-3&keywords=solder+aluminum a stainless steel wire brush. https://www.amazon.com/Brush-Brass-Stainless-Cleaning-Welding/dp/B06W2PMDPK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517236170&sr=8-3&keywords=stainless+brush and any small cheap propane or butane torch. You do not need a fancy oxy acetylene torch setup, in fact you are probably better off with a cheap pencil propane torch, the oxy torch is much more likely to just melt the radiator. If you have a local flea market, find the guy selling the aluminum brazing kits and tell him that if he can fix your radiator you will buy a kit from him (around $10). Then it will be done by someone that knows what he is doing and you have a new toy/process to play with for the future.

The harness that Steve is talking about is for the bike side trailer wiring, not the trailer itself.

Next time you are in town bring her into my basement for some shock therapy......

Does she like motorcycles?

If you can not find someone local to repair it cheap, IF it is just a pinhole, you may be able to solder it yourself. But you do have to get the special solder and flux for aluminum. I would at least try to do my own repair before spending for a replacement that is of unknown history and condition. The worst you can do is to mess it up and have the buy the one you were gonna buy anyhow. You can practics soldering thin aluminum on some soda or beer cans. Google "aluminum solder" there are a lot of how to's.

But up here there is a type of anti freeze that must also be added to the water in the tires so that they do not freeze solid. IIRC it was Calcium Chloride, which also makes the water heavier and corrosive so you also need an inner tube. I have also heard of people using RV anti freeze since it is non toxic, if/when you spring a leak. If you use regular antifreeze it is very toxic and most animals will lick it up cuz it tastes good.

I just had a thought, (those who know me know just how dangerous that can be....). I believe that my 88 is a Cali bike because it has all of the extra pollution crap on it. I will try to remember to check my side covers to see if their might be a CA emissions sticker in there. If there is, we will at least know what it is supposed to look like. I know that there are some kind of stickers in there, I just never paid close attention to them before. Now I just have to get over my CRS and remember to do it..................

Since you are in FL you do not have to worry about cold cranking, I would opt for the extra AH. Up here in WI I would opt for the better cca for those rides to work in sub freezing temps.

That thing should be able to stack snow pretty high, and for a long long time, I guess that means that I can let er rip......................

Is this the sticker they are looking for? https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Yamaha-OEM-1985-XVZ12-Vehicle-Emission-Control-Information-Update-Sticker/360783072703?hash=item540058cdbf:g:vEIAAOxy8HlSdxIW&vxp=mtr Or maybe this one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/SEADOO-YAMAHA-KAWASAKI-WAVERUNNER-EMISSION-2-star-DECALS-STICKERS-JET-SKI-DECAL/192222680440?epid=1089754779&hash=item2cc15d5578:g:uMMAAOSwhh5Toc0T&vxp=mtr

Mechanically I think it is easier to make a leaner like that than it would be to male it ridged like "normal". It would be very simple to have a bar that would snap in to go from leaner to rigid in just a few seconds. Could also be used instead of a kick stand. You would think they could find a road or empty parking lot to show off its capabilities instead of on roads that are in use. Even parking a truck in the center lane just around a curve so as to make it hard to see?

Then the question will be, Can you do the jugs while on the bike or do they have to come off?

Have over 7500 what?

You just beat me to this one............ Wait!!! are we showing our age???

So then that sounds to me like an order for more snow to WV of the light fluffy kind and not the wet sloppy kind.................................. Some times if you want specific things you have to make a specific request......... Careful there @cowpuc, you know that all it takes is to put one tiny dent in the nozzle so that you get more fallout when I am lofting it up over you...................

So did you have to quick EAT EVERYTHING that was in the old fridge? Ya know we could all have helped with that part.......................