Flyinfool

Ummmmm.......... I have bushes in the back yard..........

Hold your breath I'm going in..... I mean that both figuratively and literally. Tonight I start breaking the concrete floor in the basement to track down and hopefully be able to repair a sewer pipe break. Somehow I just know this is going to turn into a really crappy job. I think I know where the pipe is broken based on how far I could get a snake to go before it ran into impenetrable dirt, clay, and stones. A drain camera was no help either. I have already used a concrete saw to cut about half way thru the concrete and am hoping that the sledge will leave me a fairly clean edge. The basement ceiling is not high enough to get in a full swing so if I can not get enough to break it then I will have to go rent a demolition hammer. Once I get thru the floor then I get to dig down thru what will most likely be some nasty mud till I find the pipes. Then I get to try to cut 100 year old clay AND cast iron pipes without shattering them so I can splice in new PVC. Then I have to find a place to dispose of the dirt and broken cement and pipes. I will use gravel around the new pips like there is supposed to be. The current sewer pipe is 6 inch clay, there is 4 inch cast iron feeding into that below the floor. My plan is to do all replacements with 4 inch PVC and just join that to the 6" clay with one of those rubber boots. Is there a reason that I might want/need to keep the under floor part 6" and then transition to the 4" as soon as it goes above grade like it is now. Most houses have 4" sewer all the way to the street. I could only push the power snake about 5 feet into the clean out, so the break starts within 3 feet of the 90° elbow that goes from the vertical to the horizontal. I called a couple of plumbers and got estimates of $3,000-8,000, I am looking at $400-500 in parts to do it myself. Me being both cheap and poor and still able bodied, means that I have to at least try this on my own. I may very well get in there and find it is way above my pay grade and have to still call someone in. At least I will have saved some of there precious time buy already having a hole in the floor and most of the dirt gone. Doing it myself I do not have to pour the new cement right away, I can wait till spring or summer to get to that part. A pro will want to do it right away. My biggest fear is that once I get in there I will find that there is a lot more pipe in pretty bad shape beyond the cave in that I know of. I could end up trenching across 50 feet of basement floor and then having someone come in and dig a trench to the middle of the road in front of the house, in whic case this job will end up well into the 5 figure price range by the time I also pay for road repairs, sidewalk repair and yard repair. I have never done anything like this before, any tips would be helpful, if not wish me luck. This will be a scary weekend. It has to be working by Monday night when Erika starts her colonoscopy prep......

I am both cheap and stubborn. Some times it is just the principal of the challenge at hand, sometimes it is worth it to spend more on the tools to fix it that what it would take to just buy a new one. If the vice grips and PB Blaster do not work and you manage to break off the stud that is still showing, you can drill out a cobalt drill bit and the screw. To do so you will need preferably a milling machine but a drill press could work, forget trying to do it by hand held hole shooter. You will need to use a 3 flute solid carbide drill bit or center cutting end mill and lots of cutting oil. Do not break off the carbide in the hole. The only thing that can cut carbide is diamond. Or find someone that has access to an EDM machine which will cut/burn thru any metal that conducts electricity. You can try heat on the master but take all of the rubber and plastic parts off first or they will melt. You have to completely disassemble it. And when you are done having fun with new toys, then get a hold of @cowpuc and Tweeks.

When I have no power somewhere the fuse is always the first place I look.

Welcome to VR. Always love pics of a nekid blond. (The bike, I'm talking about the bike........) Couple of things. 1. As Freebird mentioned, make sure that you battery tender is working correctly. 2. Check for a parasitic draw. Battery tenders put out such low power that it is possible to have a draw that is more than the tender output that will still kill the battery even while on the tender. 3. Take the battery someplace else to have it checked, maybe the dealers checker is bad. Make sure the battery is fully charged using a battery charger, not a tender, when you take it in for test. Many auto parts stores will check a battery for free. To get 3 bad batteries in a row is not likely.

Dang that is tempting. Maybe if I can finish the kitchen and get the basement put back together by then......... We can play spin the white washer and see who gets hit...................

Which is the one with a title. There are ways to get a title for bike that have no title. Do some research, it involves titling it in a different state where all you need is a bill of sale and they will give you a title, it is then simple to transfer that title to your home state. Costs a few bux and time, but gets the job done According to the VIN tags one is an 88 and one is a 85. The 85 could still have the 2nd gear issue. @Prairiehammer will love these pics.

There are devices that you can buy for getting thru to numbers like that. It just keeps constantly dialing the number, faster than any human can, until it breaks thru and then you can quick pick up your phone. There are also apps for smart phones to do the same thing.

I tried the Myfitnesspal once, But I eat lunch in the cafeteria at work, which is my biggest meal of the day, and I have no clue what all is in the food, so I have no clue what to enter, but it tastes really good and there is a lot of it so I can be fairly sure it is not the most healthy meal of the day. At least it is all make from fresh ingredients and not processed stuff.

On mine I just did the starter cable upgrade to #4AWG welding wire. That also helps the start a lot even with the 2 brush starter. The stock #10AWG wire just can not pass the amps, especially when hot. I still have the original 2 brush starter but with the ground mod and it starts fine hot or cold, Yes it turns a bit slower hot but has never failed to start. If I am ever going back into that area, I may put in a 4 brush, but I am not going to make a special effort just for that. As mentioned I believe that the thermostat housing has to come out to get the room to pull the starter out of where it is. Forget trying to adjust anything with the air box off. It will run like poo with the air box open, if you do get it running right with the air box open then when you put in a filter and the cover it will then run like poo. The intake is sensitive enough that even drilling a single 1/2 inch diameter hole to let in a bit more air is enough to make it run bad. Many have tried and most have a piece of duct tap over the hole. If you are going to mess with the air box be prepared to be putting new jets into the carbs and going thru a whole tuning procedure to get it all working right again.

Did you unplug the wires from the primary sides of the coils. The connections can get messed up there also. If you have 2 cyl with NO spark, that is not a wiring mix up. It is possible that you have some bad solder joints in the TCI. Is there a solder experienced person somewhere near you that can help to be sure you have good connections? If not you should be able to find someone on this site that you could send it to to take a look.

Congratulations, on number 1. So glad to see that things are coming around to working like they are supposed to. You got a ways to go before you catch up to some of us real geezers that need a cane and rocking chair.

Easiest way to check if you do not have a clamp on is to just set your multi meter to AC volts and stick the probes in the socket to see what that actual voltage to the washer is while it is running. Anything under 110 and you are really stressing the motor. It is not just the extension cord length, the electricity does not know the difference between an extension cord and the wiring in the wall. So all of that length counts and part of the extension cord length. the only way to tell for sure is to check the voltage at the load. There has been more than one brand of generator that will not actually hold full voltage all the way up to rated load. If the genny voltage starts to sag as it approaches it continuous rating, add in the resistance of a couple hundred feet od wire and presto, insufficient power at the load.

Well if it is backfiring that means that there is spark happening. Double check which cylinders go where, it is possible to get it wrong.

And .2l equals 6.76 oz. or a hair over 2/3 cup. Lube is thick so it will likely not all drain out, your actual use may be a bit less. I run full synthetic in the rear, with the small amount needed it is cheap to run. A quart is almost 5 oil changes. After 100 miles on the interstate, pulling my trailer, dino has the rear fairly warm to the touch, the synthetic is still very close to ambient temp. This tells me there is less friction happening.

She is still sitting out in the garage NEKID.......

The bottom bolt of the middle gear cover is drilled through to the inside. It is also the drain for getting the oil out of the transmission. That bottom bolt is the one that should have a copper washer on it to seal the oil. If that is the bolt that is striped out I would put in a heli coil or some similar tread insert since it needs to be tight so as to not leak oil. I would not waist ime with trying the copper wire or epoxy type fixes. If you go with a heli coil, coat the drill and then the tap with heavy grease, that way the chips will stick to the drill and tap and not fall into the transmission.

The electric AD pull about 5A IIRC. I would add a relay.

You hit it. Chase speed limit is at 80 mph. In the thousands of JV auto thefts not one single felony conviction, back on the street in days and many JVs have a dozen or more times they got caught. Most that get caught are driving thru the city at 80+ so they will not be chased, and end up killing or maiming innocent people when they crash, and most do crash while flying thru red lights and stop signs at 80+. The police chief just resigned under pressure to reinstate chases, hoping for a chief that has a clue. Then we need a new DA that will actually charge these monsters with felony's and keep them off the streets. They kill people and get probation for a misdemeanor offense.

As usual I seem to be the one that is a bit "different". On my 88 I put in the progressive springs and and 12.5W fork oil, rode it that way for a while and it was great with about 3psi of air in the front and 3/4 inch long spacers, then I unplugged the anti dive and it only took one ride to know that I liked having the antidive working much better. I ride solo with a fair amount of junk in the trunk (Both me and the bike). To me the bottom line is you have to try it and see what fits your riding style. You may ride differently that anyone that has posted so far. If you haven't already, look into new springs and fork oil first. The front springs die of old age, miles mean nothing to them. The one common denominator of those that have disconnected the AD and liked it is that they all have new progressive springs.

Bob, 185 is impressive. Dan I know how that goes having a good cook that brings you a plateful. I have same problem here. Mt doc has recommended that I shoot for 215 as a goal. He said I would not be happy or healthy if I got to much less than that. I already know that there is no way I am going to get that old body back from my 20s and 30s. even then I was at 210 with a 30 inch waist. and non of that came from a gym, I was working a loading dock where forklifts were not allowed, All trucks had to hand loaded and unloaded. This last tendon blowout really did a number on me. I gained 20 lbs and can not seem to get it to go away. I really need to better control my diet, and get off of the see food diet that I am on now. But that is really hard. I do understand that to loose weight you must either reduce calories in or increase calories out. Between the rehab of the tendon and the really nasty winter I just have not gotten out to do much of anything, and it shows. This remodeling of the kitchen I thought would help as opposed to watching TV, But all it has done is to show me just how terribly out of shape I am. Good luck, If we all stick together for moral support we can all get one up on this tonnage thing.

That quote from Snell almost had me until the second to last sentence. Then it turned into marketing hype.

This year is only 47 days old and almost 600 cars have already been stolen. Most had the keys in them with the owner standing right there pumping gas or just running into the store for a gallon of milk or whatever or warming it up cuz it is sub zero temps. The tickets are the way they are trying to get people to stop making it easy for the thiefs. Interesting is probably a good place unless you are prone to locking yourself out of the car often. As long as interesting is not a place the requires the key to get to.

You leave keys in a car here, running or not, and it is a $200 ticket. If you are lucky you will get the ticket, odds are the car will be gone. The city of Milwaukee has had almost 600 cars stolen already this year. I never had luck with the magnetic key holders, they always fall off. I have keys scattered all over the state. But then I do a lot of off road playing. I have my spare hey hidden and tie wrapped in place so that it will actually still be there if I ever need it. The odds of someone finding it and staling the vehicle are pretty slim.

The bolt that you are pointing to has nothing to do with break/clutch fluid The slave cylinder is behind that bottom most point of the side panel. If you have something bubbling out of the bolt that the arrow points to, it would have to be engine oil. As mentioned it sounds like you have several unrelated issues with the bike. Old fluid will give a spongy brake or clutch and it will get worse with heat. Pop the cover off of the clutch master, the fluid should be water clear, If it is not then do a flush of the system. Just keep bleeding it until the fluid coming out of the bleeder is water clear. Make sure that you do not run the master dry in the process. If you do get air into the system it can be hard to get out. This goes for the brakes also, if the fluid is not clear change it out. Use sheets of plastic and some towels to cover the bike, the tiniest spec of brake fluid will eat a big hole right thru the paint and or plastic parts of the bike. As for the oil by that bolt, there is some other issue causing that leak.