Flyinfool

It is not an odd numbered year yet......... I did run a test where I filled both bath tubs with water, all of the sinks in the house, and then pulled all plugs at the same tome and flushed both toilets to get the max possible water flow that my house can possibly generate and still no new water appeared in the hole.

Yippie, Today is the first day that there is no standing water in the second hole. It is still mud at the bottom but at least no standing water. This is progress. It also confirms that it is just ground draining and not another leak.

The first hole is about dry enough to do the gravel fill around the pipe. For now I will fill it full with the gravel so that I can safely walk over it. I will not do the cement until summer when I can have all of the windows open to air things out. Come summer I will have to dig out gravel to the depth that I am going to pour the concrete, I do have a place to put the gravel to good use. I am even going to drive a 60 mile round trip to get the correct gravel for the job. I have to be sure that this repair will outlive me. This is not something I EVER want to do again. The second hole is still very wet at its lowest point, but it is getting better every day.

I use those glasses for a lot of things. Mine has interchangeable lenses with magnification from 1.5X up to 10X. I have the 2x, 5x and 10x lenses.

I did not vote because the question does not say what state the bus is in. Just because a school bus stops does not mean that you have to stop. You only have to stop if the red lights are flashing on the bus. In the case of the link you posted, if the buses red lights are flashing, then all 4 lanes must stop. Around here, when the school buses are in town they only turn on the yellow hazard flashers while loading or unloading. I guess they figure that city kids know how to look for traffic? But you do not have to stop for these buses. I do slow down and pass with great care but do not stop. In Wisconsin the law says that on a divided highway the oncoming traffic does not have to stop, the state definition of a divided highway is if there is a median that has a height difference of more than 1.5 inches from the roadway. There is a 4 lane "divided highway near here that is always under controversy. It is raised an average of 1.4 inches. Now just how many people have eyes calibrated that good. The sheriff often will follow the school bus and loves handing out tickets on that road. They have now posted signage that states traffic in both directions must stop for flashing red school bus. On the other hand I have seen cars swerve around and pass a flashing red school bus on the RIGHT shoulder at near full highway speed. Fortunately the kids all had already stepped thru the bus door and out of the way.

Mine was always a bit sluggish when the air temp was below freezing, buy the time the the temp gauge made its first twitch off the bottom pin it was more than ready to go. Cold air is more dense so the mixture wants to be set slightly more rich. I would wait to tweak it until the temps more closely resemble your normal riding temps.

I did not realize it was that far, I would have guessed about a half mile. I measured it at 1.35 miles. I guess you better swim close to shore. That is at least a good warmup at the beginning of the workout. WAY back when I was on a swim team we used to do a 1 mile warmup session and then we started the workouts. Right now I would be fish food before I went a mile.

@skydoc_17 sells a Stainless Steel replacement for that screw in the side of there. The screw is located on the right side of the plug, It is not easy to see. The one in there has a JIS cross recess head, the replacement is a hex socket head, much easier to work on in the future. That "drain plug" is really a valve, It must be rotated to the correct position for the cooling system to operate correctly. That correct position is not logical or intuitive. There are lots of pics of the correct position. A leak there is a common thing, the O-ring gets old and hard, when the bike is cold it will shrink and not seal, as the bike warms up it swells and seals. So a hot engine with pressure in the system will not show the leak, but there will be a puddle in the morning. Use a big clean catch pan for the coolant when you pull that drain, this will make it easier to find the ball and spring.

But are you doing any kind of cardio work? All the muscles in the world are useless if you can't feed them enough oxygen to keep going. Go jump in the river and swim to the bridge and back. Then you will know that your cardio is working. Swimming is both good cardio and something that even your bum leg can do.

We used to call that black wire disease, the copper on the negative wire turns black and becomes less conductive until it gets bad enough to break. I have never had to mess with the display of a laptop but I have had to do many other things inside of them. It always took a bit of searching but I always found a manual online somewhere that says how to take it apart and get it back together. Some time it is not logical like an engine would be. It helps to take pics as you unplug things to be sure they get back where they belong. also pics of mechanical things will help later. Pay attention to the screws as you remove them, sometimes there is one or 2 spots with a different length screw, keep those separate and mark the spots, there is a good reason the spent extra money to have a different length screw in that spot. Before I spent money on a new back light, I would at least try to solder that wire back in place, even if it meant replacing the whole or part of the wire with a new one, but then I am pretty cheap. You can either keep cutting the wire back until you find clean copper or manually clean the copper strands so that you can solder to it to splice in more wire. I work on some really tiny stuff, it is quite common to see a magnifier planted on my head. Something similar to This makes working with the tiny parts a lot easier.

F***ed Up Beyond All Recognition, or the PC version Fouled Up Beyond All Recognition. It was first used in WWII, It was made popular in the movie Tango & Cash where it was used repeatedly and finally toward the end of the movie Cash asks for and receives a definition of FUBAR.

And of course our host can not escape unscathed either...... This is Mr Air Ready Auto himself. All I can say is those that did not make it there, YOU MISSED IT! There was mass quantities of authentic Mexican food and everything was absolutely delicious. Thank you so much for inviting me. Yes there was some of the care package that made it home for Erika........

You do not need to get to the coils to test the primaries, Since you have the TCI unplugged, The primary wires are all available at the TCI connector. This will have the benefit of also checking all of the wiring and connectors between the TCI and the coils.

OOPIE!!

That tells you that the pickup coils and their wiring is all good. You have at least eliminated one possible thing. The tach is driven from the #2 coil, since the tach did work that tells you that the problem is not in the #2 cylinders ignition on the primary side. You mention that you eliminated the side stand switch. How did you terminate the wires that go to the side stand switch? If that Black/White wire finds a ground it will shut the engine off. If it is finding an intermittent ground it could just make it run bad.

Puc it is to bad the ferry is not running, It lands just 4 miles from my house and it is on the way to Air Readys, I could stop at the landing, we all pile into my truck, it is a 4 door, Get the BSing started for the ride up there.

As Bob said, bend the guard back to its original position before you grind off the corner. I used the hardware store "chrome" rattle can paint to touch up just the bare steel after grinding so that it does not rust, If are not looking for it the chrome paint is close enough to hide that corner.

The only way to know if your clutch is actually worn out is to measure the thickness of the plates. All that time it has been slipping you have also been wearing material off of the disks. Even when you do not feel it slipping it is most likely still creeping some.

Wet ground is not stable, It will dry out eventually, as it dries the ground will shrink. If I cement over it while wet, when the ground shrinks it will be pulling on the pipes and it will no longer be properly supporting the cement floor. NO WAY!!!!!! As you said they do EARN it. I would never want to work that hard for a living. There were a few times during this that I thought about calling in a pro, thinking that the $8K was a bargain. There is no way I ever want to do this again. I fully understand why they get paid what they get paid. Playing with the camera was hind of neat. I am a sucker for techno toys. To bad I did not have what was necessary to record that. The camera has a yellow RCA video plug on it, But I do not have a recording device that will accept that input and I am to cheap to add more time to the camera rental to give me time to round up the video gear I would need.

Are you sure you got the correct connector? According to my wire diagram there is no yellow wire. You want the 6 pin connector on the TCI, the other one is an 8 pin. You do not need to check the Black/white wire. The Black/White wire is for parts of the safety circuits for the tip over switch and the side stand switch.

The fuse panel you have will not work by its self. there are some circuits that are always hot, some go hot with the key in ACC and some go hot only in run. You would need to use 3 of the common buss buss blocks to cover it. Or just get one fuse block that does not have common power. Since you say that you are not real good with electricity, you may want to get the kit from @skydoc_17 that has everything you will need including instructions.

There is no problem knowing exactly where the pipe is. Plumbing was not added to the house until long after it was built (1800s), You can see where they dug the trench to put it in the first time somewhere around the 1920s. I tried cutting to get nice straight lines, but it still broke out along the edges from 100 years ago. The good news is that I now have all of the new pipe in. I just tested it and there are no leaks. I took a long hot shower (I needed that) and still no leaks. I have a fan and a dehumidifier running down there to dry out the holes for a few weeks before I fill with gravel. I will let the gravel sit for a few more weeks before I cement it up. But for now I will rest and eat......................

I do have all the basement windows open, the back door open and the hallway windows open. I also have a 20" fan for forced ventilation. So I hope that I am OK. Since I have the pipe open and I have had it for the night, I have a blower in the pipe to force air into the city sewer to keep gas from coming into the house. Sewer gas can be both toxic and explosive so I am keeping that in mind. i did dive into it again tonight. I fond the other hole in the pipe and have dug most of the old pipe and "dirt" out. I was right, If that plumber was still alive I would be wish him all kinds of ill will. It was worse than I thought. there is a "turn" in the main line of about 30° but no elbows were used, they just twisted the pipe and slathered it with mortar, the end of the pipe was not even into the socket of the mating pipe. And where the laundry drain connected to the main line, it was PVC, BUT there was no wye, they used a hammer to break a hole into the main line, stuck the PVC pipe in and slathered some mortar around it, the PVC protruded about 2 inches into the main line. and this was very near where that stupid angled joint was, Guess where everything was getting hung up? Right now I am resting a bit and then heading for bed. I really hate crappy workmanship. I may not be a pro, but when I am done it will be pretty close to code. I did splurge and rent a drain camera, I am glad I did, ALL of the rest of the pipe all the way to the street sewer looks like brand new. So I can now have peace of mind that there are no ticking time bombs in the rest of the line. Not even a single root penetration. The only dangerous to my success thing left to do is cutting the clay pipe to attach the new PVC. The last cut I did it took me 3 tries to get a clean cut. I do not have room to do that again without breaking out more floor and doing a lot more digging to get to the next section of pipe. So tomorrow is make that scary cut and then it is just a matter cutting and gluing PVC pipe. The camera also made it obvious that pushing a new pipe thru the old is not an option, the run is no where near straight enough to shove a nice straight run of PVC through it.

Looks good! 9 outa 10 times weird lighting issues are ground related. Did all that new paint mess up the ground path? Is there an actual ground wire to each bulb or is it relying on frame ground. Frame grounds are also unreliable. Simple test, Take out a bulb, connect an ohm meter from the battery negative terminal to the ground terminal of the bulb socket, It should be zero ohms.

There is nothing that says you can not make an offer of cash and trade, and if they say no, turn around and head for the door. It is the walking out the door part that makes them nervous. Especially if you tell then you are torn between the V3 or a hardly. You can always come back and pay MSRP tomorrow if that is acceptable to you.