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Flyinfool

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Everything posted by Flyinfool

  1. Flyinfool
    Been there and am still in the middle of it now. Lost my job and used the CCs to keep food on the table and other escentials. Now I am working at a fraction of what I was making before. CCs are near max and all I can make is the minimum, and then not always. So they decided to raise the minimums and interest rates. I now owe moer each month that my net take home. You always have an option to opt out of the change. BUT It you do opt out it will be reported to the credit bureaus that THEY canceled your card which is a significant black mark on your credit. Any assistance program or "arrangements" that you make with them will also be reported as negative on your credit history. I am now at a point that I am seriously considering talking to a bankruptcy attorney, and just start life over from square one. The only thing stopping me, is that a bankruptcy is the one thing that will never leave your credit report. I need to find out more about the negotiating to pay just what is left of the original balance. There are so many scams out there, that I have no idea who to safely contact. I am hoping to be able to hang on to my Venture thru this if at all possible. If anyone here knows the way thru this please feel free to PM me.
  2. Flyinfool
    Once I finish up the trunk reflector that bottom one may be next. Although now that perpetual night is here and I will not see the sun on a weekday till some time next year. The HID headlight might be a good choice. Especially now that it is that time of year where the deer have declared war on motorists. We will see which direction the ambition and budget head.
  3. Flyinfool
    Well I have decided to increase the turn signal are of the lights. That will take some more cutting and splicing of wires and LED strips, but it should not be to bad. I will post pics of the mod once I do it. I have had very positive comments from those that have seen this light mod in person. Although the running lights are just barely visible in the daylight they are bright enough at night to make a big difference in visibility. The brake lights are very visible in daylight but so bright at night as to be obnoxious to the person behind me. I see a lot of views on this thread. Did I really get lucky and do that good of a job of explaining so far, that there are so few questions, comments, and/or snide remarks???? Or is everyone just waiting to see the final product??
  4. Flyinfool
    The big ones are so good at getting away, even after they are dead. I did that with a buck (not as big) once but I dragged it farther off the road and hid it under a Pine tree so that it would still be there on the way home when I could meet up with the sheriff. In Wisconsin you would not dare put an untagged deer in or on your vehicle, you have to wait for the sheriff to put a road kill tag on it. Unless of course you wish to donate that vehicle to the state.
  5. Flyinfool
    And I'll bet that there are no taxes payed out of that making it a really good living. Unfortunately there are a lot of people that fall for these scams. A friend of mine got hit by the Craigs list scammer on his sale of a trailer. He just could not comprehend how a "cashiers check" could possibly be bad. And he is a business owner!!
  6. Flyinfool
    Did a quick Google search for "motorcycle engine stand" and they all seem to similar to this. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/ProductImages/OG/0000_K&L_MC25_Metric_Engine_Stand_--.jpg
  7. Flyinfool
    Pull that fuse out and connect an amp meter across the fuse terminals to see just what kind of current it is drawing. Then while the fuse and amp meter are out try everything on the bike to see what no longer works.
  8. Flyinfool
    What Eck said. It is hard programmed to default to on. There is a switch that you can use to shut it off, but you will have to push that button every time you go into reverse. OR Do like Eck said and install your own switch. Or Do like my significant other did and get rear ended by a Chevy P/U to break a sensor on the back bumper.
  9. Flyinfool
    It appears to have a powered tilt and the front wheel holder crawls uo via a rack and pinion driven by a 12V motor. The ramp is removable in 2 sections. Should take very little effort on the part of the operator. More info here. http://www.blueox.us/Carriers/SC3000.pdf Looks interesting.
  10. Flyinfool
    It appears to have a powered tilt and the front wheel holder crawls uo via a rack and pinion driven by a 12V motor. The ramp is removable in 2 sections. Should take very little effort on the part of the operator. More info here. http://www.blueox.us/Carriers/SC3000.pdf Looks interesting.
  11. Flyinfool
    More pics and progress. Pic 1 The wire connections under the seat. Pic 2 The dressed out wiring under the seat. Pic 3&4 Light bar installed on Trunk with running lights on. Pic 5 The wiring in the trunk. The red rectangle is the diode board. Pic 6 The floor back in the trunk. Pic 7 Running lights from 50 yards Pic 8 Running lights Pic 9 Brake lights Pic 10 Brake lights from 50 yards The reflector backing was reinstalled using double sided foam tape 1/32 thick, with five 1.5 x 2 pieces and the original 3 screws. I have not glued the reflector back on since the backing was rather flimsy once the reflector was removed so I have to have it mounted to the trunk to hold proper shape for gluing. I have not yet reinstalled the reflectors. I am waiting to see if I want to increase the Turn signal portion to be more visible from the back. Increasing the turn signal area will decrease the brake light area. I may need to get someone to follow me to see what it looks like on the road.
  12. Flyinfool
    OK,here are some more pics and progress. Pic 1 The component side of the Diode board. Pic 2 The copper side of the Diode board. Pic 3 The new revised schematic for the Diode board that I promised you and the board layouts. The board was made using copper clad 1 side "perf" board. The holes are on 0.100 centers. The board was made by using a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to cut the lines as indicated by the light blue lines leaving the desired circuit. I left the components showing on the copper side for reference. Once the board is made, solder on the components as shown. After the components then solder on the wires. So that I could tell the difference, on ALL of the output wires I added a black stripe with a magic marker. Once all of the soldering is done I covered the board with shrink tubing. Colors are for both the board and bike; Brake - Yellow Tail lights - Blue Right turn - Green Left turn - Brown Ground - Black
  13. Flyinfool
    I will be following this thread. I have been looking at HID setups for a while now. I did find one for around $70 that actually has 2 HID sections in a single H4 bulb for the Hi-Lo beam. That may be one of my next projects once I am done with my LED tail lights.
  14. Flyinfool
    That sounds like a compliment to me. I often say Yum Yum when something is really good.
  15. Flyinfool
    Whenever drilling a damaged fastener, always use a left hand drill bit. Some times the bit will catch and spin the remains of the fastener out. I have seen a right hand drill bit catch just as you are getting through the head and run the remains of the screw farther into the hole, making it even more difficult to get out.
  16. Flyinfool
    With the dimmer switch right next to the cassette deck.
  17. Flyinfool
    Oops. In redrawing the schematic to make a nice pic, I messed it up, do not use the one from back in post #11. It will not hurt anything, It is just that the turn signals won't work correctly. I will post the correct one soon.
  18. Flyinfool
    Thanks Ron It looks even better in person than it does in the pics. At least that is my heavily biased opinion and I'm sticking to it. I have not even looked at how I will do the lower light bar yet. I do not have enough of the red LED strip left to do the lower light bar, I may be ordering another spool of red LED strip and a spool of yellow LED when I get that far. I looked at using yellow LEDs behind the red lens on the top but did not like the look. I plan to leave the stock incandescent turn signals so that I do not have to mess with adding load resistors to keep the computer happy, which ends up not saving any power. Hmmmmmm..... I was planning to use the hot glue so that the lens will remain removable with just a little heat, I thought that the RTV would be to permanent. Now I have more to think about. Reattaching the lenses will be the very last thing that I will do after it is all wired up and working and I am happy with the results. I am thinking about adding the last 3 LEDs on each side of the rear facing area to increase the turn signal visibility to the rear, as I have it now there is only a sliver of the turn signal visible directly to the rear. BUT that will mean decreasing the brake light area or getting a lot fancier with the control module to have the turn signals be part of the brake lights but still flash with the turn signals. I hope to get started with the wiring to the bike sometime this week. I have not looked yet but I am hoping that there will be a nice easy to access wire harness with the Tail, turn, break and ground wires, right under the seat. Or is this just wishful thinking?
  19. Flyinfool
    Here are pics of the controller for the new tail lights. It is a very simple board to build with all parts available at Radio Shack. Now I just need to wire up the bike and put everything back together. Edit. Oops. In redrawing the schematic to make a nice pic, I messed it up, don't use this one. I will post the correct one soon.
  20. Flyinfool
    That is as bad as at work yesterday, while at a design meeting for a new product, we were discussing the differences between the 50/60 Hz power supplied to homes around the world and the 400Hz used on aircraft and some other transportation systems. The C.O.O. (who also thinks he is a motor design engineer) asked the question "so how many Hz is DC power?" I had much difficulty keeping a straight face while trying to answer.
  21. Flyinfool
    Some people have all of the luck......
  22. Flyinfool
    Ya a lot of nice stuff traded in. I didn't think of it till it was to late, my buddy traded in his truck, same as mine but 2 years newer and 150K less miles, we could have traded trucks first.
  23. Flyinfool
    Hey Dan Thanks, The Pics do not do it justice, cheap camera. You are close enough that you could buzz over to check it out before it is all glued back together. I need to go out and buy a hot melt glue gun to put it back together.
  24. Flyinfool
    I am using red LEDs behind the red lens. If you use white lights behind a red lens then the lens will filter out all of the light energy except for the red. You end up wasting most of the light.
  25. Flyinfool
    Here is the first set of pics. The LED strip must only be cut at the cut marks located every 3 LEDs. Notice the power supply and the amp draws at 14V for the brake light (pic 7) and 6V for the running lights (pic 8). The running lights light both turn signals and only the top and bottom strips of the center section. The brake lights everything including the turn signal areas yet the turn signals will still flash. There is a pic of the center of the housing (pic 3) showing an area that had to be ground down to make room for the light strips. In the center of the assembly there are some missing LEDs in the area that will be behind the Venture logo. pics 3 & 5
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