Flyinfool

Are you sure that it is not a valve cover gasket leaking and running down there? Take a good look above that to be sure the leak is not above the 2 side covers. There is also the twinkie at the bottom of the V that is a popular leak. Did you check for oil in the air cleaner box? I like to be sure before I disassemble stuff.

As mentioned I would use dino for break in. Break in on synth takes forever and the rings never seat quite right. We used to refer to the dino as liquid sandpaper. When I was racing stock cars the engine builder always said to do break in on 10w-30 dino and then switch to 20W-50 for racing but then this was a 725HP V8 turning 8K that got about 2 gallons per mile. Going to a heavier oil in a new engine is a bad idea the bearing clearances were set up for a certain oil film thickness, going to a heavier oil will reduce the oil flow thru the bearings causing them to actually run hotter and wear quicker. Now in an old engine where all of the clearances have opened up from wear, then the heavy oil may be better

Did you have the stator cover off? If so what did you do to seal the stator wires?

All 4 of those are the same wing located in different places. Might be fun to mess with the scammer, I am betting they are all 4 the same scammer.

OK a short class of ohm meter 101. Take your ohm meter and turn it on, with the leads not connected to anything is what your display shows with an open circuit. Now connect the two test leads together, this is what the meter will show with a direct short to ground.

In Wisconsin you still need a MC on your DL to drive a trike or Voyager. @cowpuc Also In Wisconsin I do have a permanent plate on my bike. Because my bike is more than 20 model years old, I can get a Collector plate. The Collector plate requires a one time initial payment of double the normal registration fee of $12, so $24 plus $25 and you get a plate for $49 that is now good forever. You never have to pay another penny for renewals or registration ever. The only caveat to having a Collector plate is that I can not have it out on the road in the month of January. Around here that is NOT normally an issue. IF you should happen to get another collector bike, it will get the same plate number with an alpha suffix character added on. As for trailers, anything under 3,000 lbs GVW trailer weight does not have registration or plates. Every state has their own game and the rules vary wildly from state to state. So do your homework in your state to see if there are any loopholes you can jump thru.

It is possible that you have a bad RLU. But it is more likely that you have a dirty switch. I have to take apart and clean my HI / LO headlight switch every spring for it to keep working reliably.

Interesting That NZ site got their wiring diagrams from VR.org. The ones they have are the ones that were drawn by our member Dingy. I have no way to know if Dingy is aware (or cares) that they are using his work.

OK, That bulb that you have wired in, in place of the fuse is for finding the short that is blowing the fuse. All of the stuff that is powered by that fuse will not work with the bulb in place. When you turn the key on does that test bulb light?

All of the 1st gen Ventures came with the battery probe, Most people have removed them. The 2nd gens did not have the battery probe.

All of the things you have wrong all share two things in common, they are all powered by the signal fuse and they all have the same ground. Do you have a good fuse in the signal position? Do you still have the test light in the signal fuse position? All of that stuff will not work with the test bulb in place. Do you have both ground wires connected to the battery?

I do not remember them ever being there either. They are on most pages and it just felt like an over site that this one page does not have them. If it is a PITA to put them there, don't worry about it. I was hoping it was a simple thing to do.

When on the screen with the new posts after clicking the "New Post" button. The buttons for "Private Message" and for "Community" are not there. The New post screen is where I spend most of my time but I always have to go to any other screen to access these 2 features. Of course it could just be me and my silly ways of doing things.

8 out of 10 times that someone asks you to hold something that is for sale, you will never see them again. If you are serious and want some one to hold something, you have to put money down. I have seen way to often that people will ask to hold a half dozen things while they decide which one they really want. All the other sellers are left out with nothing. I am not saying that you would do this, but as a seller it is a common thing to see. It is a cruel world, but money talks, everything else walks.

Much easier.

That is the main fuse I was referring to. There should be spares in a slot inside of that same holder.

I replaced my main fuse with a 40A Maxi Fuse. At least spares are easy to find should I ever need one.

Now stop that Puc, your gonna make me blush, then I may have to go hide in a snowbank, and you know who will get the over spray.......... That TCI looked like it had leaked some battery acid inside of it. There was about 2 square inches of board with the copper runs rotted away, I had to do a couple hours working under a magnifying glass to lay down wires to rebuild the damaged circuit traces. I do not have the technology to to any kind of in depth testing of the board other than to plug it into my bike and it ran badly on just the 2 left cylinders (Same thing GeoBob was getting on his bike). Put my TCI back in and bike ran smooth as silk again.

Was this the first start of the spring? Mine always smokes like crazy on the first start of the spring, then gets back to normal once it gets fully warmed up. The spark plug looks pretty good, A bit wet, I do not know if the wetness came from the removal or if there is oil getting in the cylinder. If it was coolant the plug would be super clean and look like new. The stuff on the magnet, is it chunks of metal or is it all ultra fine metallic dust? Any weird noises coming out of the left side of the motor, Stators have been known to come loose and rub on the flywheel, this would make metal shavings.

You may have popped the main fuse. It is located near the solenoid on the left side. there is a replaceable element in that fuse, the spare elements are in the main fuse housing. Hopefully the fuse is all that popped when the battery was backwards. On the solenoid are the 2 big fat wires and one small gauge wire, connect a jumper from that small wire to the battery negative that will engage the solenoid and the bike should turn over. This should work no matter what the key position or the condition of any fuses.

Stators are not a long life thing in these bikes. The "cooling kit" was a band aid to make it a bit less bad.

Those cracks are right where they all break. @Dano is a bit more but you will not have to do this ever again. All the parts to do it stock add up to close to $200 anyhow. I do not know what Dano is getting these days. If you look at the surface of the 72 tooth gear (It is still on the crank in your pics) that the clutch pawls grab, I bet it looks like a washboard.....

Last chance to pick this up....... http://www.armslist.com/posts/8141933/milwaukee-wisconsin-handguns-for-sale--magnum-reasearch-lone-eagle--7mm-08

8.8 is similar to SAE grade 5 bolts. 10.9 would be better, but there is a good chance these will work. once you tighten the puller, leave it tight, every time you come to check, tighten it some more, it may just pop overnight. You have to crank on it till you are sure it will break, then go a bit more, and more and,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

got a pipe wrench or a big adjustable wrench?