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Flyinfool

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Everything posted by Flyinfool

  1. Flyinfool
    Is the issue with the difference in funds, Can vs US or with the shipping address being other than your home? I never have things shipped to my house, all I had to do was to call my credit card co. and give them the other "authorized" address. For the dealer, when they type in the address it comes back as good, they don't know or care if it where you live. I never tried it across country boarders but if you call you CCc they may be able to help.
  2. Flyinfool
    According to the Priority Mail chart at usps.com I think it is going to be close as to whether it will fit as "standard" size for about $23US. Based on the size and weight given on the HF web site it is 31 lbs and has a combined size of 100 inches. You are allowed 108 inches. Most HF stuff is in pretty flimsy boxes so I would think that you would want another wrap of real cardboard around it to help make sure it stays in the box, that will push the 108 inch limit. I would also want to add some kind of packing inside the box so that it can not shift around to punch its way out of the box. This all will add a couple of pounds. I do tend to use overkill when shipping anything. Sorry, can't help with the quality issues.
  3. Flyinfool
    I tried all 4 of my gauges and had a 6 lb variance between them. They were all repeatable. So I took the gauge that I liked to use and played with the pressure till it felt like I wanted it to, and then just use that gauge and number when checking or adjusting pressure. I have no idea what my actual pressure is.
  4. Flyinfool
    No worry, they said that it is a normal stock item. And I get there a couple of times a week.... If/When you need help with this from me just let me know.
  5. Flyinfool
    Do you have the HF P/N for the adapter that you need? If it is the 42927 then it is in stock at the HF that is a half mile from my house.
  6. Flyinfool
    The laws of the state for the tow vehicle apply. In WI only trailers with a GVW of over 3000 lbs must be registered, In IL all trailers must be registered. A WI vehical should have no problem pulling a small trailer through IL. You SHOULD not get stopped for it, BUT if the LEO is following behind you and most likely will not be able to see the tow vehicle plates to determine what state you are from, you may still get pulled over and have to explain/discuss things to him. In WI it is $12 to register a small trailer, Some people that I know do register their small trailers just for the peace of mind while traveling. You will spend more than that in tolls driving through.
  7. Flyinfool
    Every factory made trailer that I have seen has amber on the front half and red on the back half.
  8. Flyinfool
    Brian This did not start suddenly. It started as an occasional squeak that was so short in duration and so infrequent that I was not sure that it was even there. It has been getting steadily louder and more frequent. It is still intermittent and only happened once in 20 miles of riding after I did the work. When it happens it is at very low speed, 5-10 mph, just before I come to a stop. I have never pulled a trailer yet and I have not been riding any harder tan normal. Till yesterday the rear has not been apart in the 3 years that I have had it. Jasonm Yes the seal is there and not leaking. The instructions in the tech library did say to remove the drive shaft from the pumpkin so I did. The inside of the swing arm was dry. Gary The caliper has been off twice and each time torqued with a torque wrench. I have not checked the disc bolts but will when I take it off to scuff it.
  9. Flyinfool

    ABS mandatory?

    Flyinfool replied to a topic in Watering Hole

    I have never ridden a bike with ABS. In my truck I have the ABS disabled. I can stop significantly faster without the ABS than with on any road surface from dry to dirt to snow. I do have 15 years of dirt track racing experience.
  10. Flyinfool
    That would be the one that had the best tone..... OH POOO some more. The noise is still there. It does not do it all of the time, I can not make it do it when I want it to either. It is loud enough that I got some really strange looks from pedestrians as I came to a stop. When it makes the noise I can feel it vibrate through the whole bike but there is a very pronounced vibration in the rear brake pedal.This makes me think it is brake related more so that engine brake related. Since I almost always use a lot of engine braking, it may have been a coincidence that the noise showed up during both engine and rear brake, I did get it once with just the rear brake. I'm thinking of pulling off the rear rotor and give it a quick scuff with the DA sander, and/or maybe put in a new set of HH pads. What cha all think.
  11. Flyinfool
    Possibly a rock kicked up off the tire? Something loose and rolling around inside the bag? Is there any damage or mark to indicate an impact from either inside or outside?
  12. Flyinfool
    That was my thought also. The one real bad joint may have been a partly cold joint, but it looks mostly like fatigue fractures. Whenever I have to repair a joint on a PCB I always use solder with a little silver in it. The silver makes the joint a little stronger than just plain solder. I also add some NON corrosive flux in addition to the flux core of the solder, the flux and solder are both available at Radio Shack. If like in the Pic there is fatigue cracking I would add a small dab of either electrical grade RTV or hot melt glue to keep that component from moving and breaking your new solder joint.
  13. Flyinfool
    OK I used the rear wheel removal instructions int the tech section. (Man I love this site) I needed 70 lbs of junk in the trunk (NOW I know what that barbell set is for) to get the balance correct. The only change that I had to do to the rear wheel removal instructions was that I had to remove both mufflers, because I do not have a 27mm wrench, only a socket and I would need the straight shot to torque it during assy. As I found out pulling the muffler is no big deal. Got the rear wheel off and the splines were VERY well greased with a black grease so it could have been molly grease. I cleaned all of the old grease out and and checked the rear bearings, they look and feel perfect. Next, as long as I was there I drained the lube out of the rear end and it looked very black and yucky. Then I removed the rear end to get at the drive shaft and the front spline was bone dry, it even had some rust on it. Hmmmm possibly my culprit??? So I cleaned it up, greased it up and wiggled and jiggled the drive shaft back in. Lubed up the splines on the rear end and bolted it back in place. put the rear tire and brake back in. Filled the rear end up with new lube. And of course I couldn't wait so I fired it up with no mufflers or front wheel on just to be able to run the rear wheel to listen for noises. The rear end sounded fine but boy was it loud!!!!! I was just about to tip it back onto the rear wheel to put the front wheel on when it happened. Yup the big OH POO!! (edited to remain PG) What is this oily spring about a half inch in diameter an about 2 inches long, stuck to the magnet on the bottom of my magnetic parts tray. OH POO!!!! (ed.) That spring is the one that goes in between the rear end and the drive shaft!!!! Oh POO!!!! (ed.) Start all over take everything apart, and put it back together with ALL of the parts this time. Took it for a short ride thru the park and tried to get it to make that noise again but I could not get the noise. Since the noise was intermittent I will be listening for it to reappear. Since the lube that came out of the rear end looked so bad I will run 2 tanks of gas and then change it again. This is one of the cheapest repairs that I have ever done, $0.70 for the new pin to hod on the rear axle nut and $3.00 for a small tub of molly grease. Less that a value meal at Rotten Ronnie's. After all of that, I had just a shred of ambition left so I mounted my Wolo Bad Boy that I bought last fall. Now I will have a good noise as soon as I wire it up, ambition ran out for today. Thanks guys. Sorry I typed so long. I'll shut up and go ride some now......
  14. Flyinfool
    The "grinding" noise is kind of like the old baseball card in the spokes, from when I was a kid, only higher pitch. It is hard to describe a noise. I guess I get to figure out how to start pulling out the rear wheel....... bummer.
  15. Flyinfool
    Today on my way home from work my bike learned to make a really obnoxious noise. The noise is like a heavy grinding sound coming from the rear end area. It only makes this sound when decelerating with a lot of engine braking AND application of the rear brake. It does mot make this noise with just rear brake or just engine braking. The rear pads are at about 50% wear and the rotor looks smooth on both sides. The oil level is the rear is correct. Any ideas?
  16. Flyinfool
    I already did make this choice, I got a 1st Gen....
  17. Flyinfool
    If the feds and congress do not want illegal immigrants arrested then they have the power to remove the immigration laws from the books and just open our borders to pure chaos. I hope the sheriff continues to tell the feds to stick it where the sun don't shine. It is his job to enforce ALL laws. I like it.
  18. Flyinfool
    You mentioned that you were going to paint it bright blue or yellow. My vote would be for the bright yellow. I like the way yellow and red go together, add a couple of black pinstripes to match the engine color and you have it made. Cant wait for next spring to see the new colors.
  19. Flyinfool
    I have installed the clutch up grade from PCW racing. It is supposed to be the same kit that you can now get here on VR. I bought my kit before it was available here. During the install I measured all of my plates. A new plate is 3mm (.118 inch) thick, the service manual says that 2.8mm (.110 inch) thick is worn out. All of my discs measured between .116 and .117 thick, the new full disc measured .118. After the install and putting on a few hundred miles of city driving, the clutch still locks up solid with zero slip at any throttle setting at any speed. That is the good part. The bad is, that now I still have about 1/2 inch of free play in the clutch leaver but it goes from full engage to zero engagement in the next 1/4 inch of travel. there is then about 2 inches of remaining travel that does nothing at all. This makes slow maneuvering very difficult, The friction zone is almost nonexistent. I called PCW and they have had some customers report this issue but had no answer. Any ideas as to what I messed up?
  20. Flyinfool
    The farmers have to fertilize the fields somehow:rotf::rotf: :rotfl::rotfl: :rotf::rotf: :rotfl::rotfl:
  21. Flyinfool
    McMaster Carr is a major industrial supplier that treats an individual the same as the would treat someone the size of GM or Ford. Everyone is their best customer. Almost any business that has a machine shop does business with McMaster. I have been doing business with them for over 20 years. Yes they occasionally send a wrong item (VERY, VERY rare) but never an issue returning it. Never even an issue when I was the one that messed up and ordered something other than what I wanted. It is great place for lots of neat stuff.
  22. Flyinfool
    The ad does say that these were made for another manufacturer that rejected them due to flaws in the chrome plating. So these are factory seconds. But what the heck, for $30 and free shipping I may just add a second air horn.
  23. Flyinfool
    These are the brackets that I need.
  24. Flyinfool
    These are the brackets that I need.
  25. Flyinfool
    I am still looking for it.
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