Flyinfool

I like my not so little Ruger Mark II with the 10" target barrel. It will place shots right in there at 100 yards. Can shoot all day and the heat does not bother its accuracy. The extractor is completely worn out, only way to get a round out of the chamber is to drop the mag and fire it, or use a cleaning rod to push it out. gonna have to order a new one one of these days. Lots of squirrels regretted peeking their head around the corner of a tree to see what was going on.

I never liked the steel cased ammo other than the price. That steel is a lot harder on the gun than brass is. Some of the steel case ammo also has very corrosive primers, also bad for the gun. A 9mm is on my wish list (along with a LOT of other guns). I have not yet got serious about it to the point where I visit a couple of gun stores to start fondling some of them. Then I usually find a range that has one available for rent and actually fire one for a while to see what my hand really likes. Fingers are crossed, I have someone coming over tonight to hopefully buy my Lone Eagle Pistol in 7mm-08. Not quite what one would use for concealed carry, but still a blast to shoot. The deer will be foolishly rejoicing when the news gets out that I have sold this beast. It is always sad to see a gun go away, but then I will have funds to go shopping for a new gun. Deer season is getting close, It takes me a long time to break in and set up a new rifle.

Silly question, but you did know that the right grip is bigger than the left grip?

@skydoc_17 sells a delink kit with instruction and all the needed braided hoses and other parts needed. He also has a braided kit for the clutch. On my 88 I was able to stuff the TCI into the left fairing, BUT I have a standard and a aftermarket stereo so my audio may be smaller than the one Yamaha uses for the Royals.

I still say that most of what you are noticing is due to being ethanol free as opposed to the added octane. Since the bike does have a computer it is likely that it is always riding the knock sensor and the 91 lets the ignition advance farther to actually make use of the added octane. In an antique system of fixed timing and carbs like the 1st and 2nd gen Ventures have you will pick up performance from the ethanol free and loose some performance from the added octane. the net result will likely be better on many fronts to run the ethanol free, I would if I could get it. Whenever I travel with the truck I always bring a couple of 5 gallon gas cans to give the engines at home a treat. Mt truck being a Flexfuel will sense ethanol free and really take advantage of it.

I would not walk beside it on the ramp. If you should happen to kill the engine halfway up the ramp you want to be on the bike to be able to hit the rear brake. The front will do nothing.

It is not the octane that is giving your boost in performance and MPG, it is the ethanol free that you are seeing. If you could compare to 87 octane ethanol free your results would likely be a lot different. mid throttle is not a good place to measure a power difference unless you are able to measure and know that the comparison was done with the throttle plates at exactly the same opening angle. I keep a gas log for my truck, In 300K+ miles I could tell you exactly how much gas went thru it, what brand and what cost etc, I ran a semi scientific test in my truck where I ran premium for 1 full year to get all the weather conditions that we see here in WI and wrote down all the info at every fill up. After that full year, yes the premium got better gas mileage, but not by enough to justify the cost. The truck does have an engine computer to adjust the fuel thru the EFI and spark timing to be able to make some use out of the higher octane gas, and I did notice a bit more power and less engine knock while pulling a RV.

Running premium in a bike designed for regular will only empty your wallet faster and possibly even reduce available power. In this case the engine design in the new Venture calls for 91 octane so you must use premium or you run the risk of damaging the engine.

@rbig1 went thru the same thing, he ended up using a winch so he could sit on the bike and walk it up or down the ramp easy as could be. Make sure the ramp is shallow enough so that you do not high center and get stuck at the top. If you do make up some kind of training wheels, design them so that the axle is in the same place as the rear wheel, that way they will not lift off the ground as you go ever the edges.

Naaaa, Kali did not screw it up again, it was already screwed up, they just screwed it up some more....................

Love it when a plan comes together. See we told you it was not all that hard to do. Now get out there and start CTFW.

On my 88 it always turns over slow, but has never had an issue starting. I still have my original 2 brush starter. 7 or 8 years ago I did pull the starter, open it up and clean all the carbon dust out of it and did the Dingy ground wire mod, and then did the conversion to the #4 AWG welding cables. It still turns a bit slow but always starts right up. I think the 2 brush motor was designed to turn at a lower RPM than the 4 brush. If this starter ever dies I will replace with a 4 brush for sure, But I am not going to replace a starter that always gets the job done just for the fun of it. Plus it is a PITA to get to. I did the mods to mine because I was already in there for another unrelated reason. I am not one that believes in throwing money at a problem and hope to hit it. I will spend a lot more time to be as sure as possible of what the real problem is, and then have to spend and fix just one time.

Oh come on. Got a real nice little storm in the pot brewing right here. could be 3-6 inches and if I can get the recipe just right it could be well over 6 inches for some of us. All this even with the temps in the 40s. @cowpuc did challenge me to develop 60°F snow. Cuz Cowpuc just loves snow so very much.I am still working on that recipe, I am only up to 45° so far. As far as that @saddlebum character, It was determined that he did close the door, but he never took the screen door off, so even though it was closed it did not make much difference.

Getting it started is a big part of the battle. Add a can of Berrymans or Seafoam to the gas tank and get it running again with that nice strong mix running thru the carbs and then let it sit overnight. Keep doing that and playing with trying to get the choke off to make those cleaners go to all parts of the carbs. You may end up having to shotgun them to get them opened up enough for the treated gas to get there and do its magic. If none of that works then the only option left is to pull the carbs and manually clean and rebuild them. As for the electrical, start by grabbing your 12V test light and check each fuse for power on BOTH sides of each fuse. Check for power at the items that are not working. If they have power, then connect a temp ground wire from the non working item direct to the battery negative to see if it is a ground issue. Whether you shut it down with the key or the kill switch is 100% personal preference. That is why there are arguments both ways. I just does not matter.

In the USA there are a few stations that carry the crap free premium gas. There are also a lot of areas where it does no matter what brand you get they all have corn mixed in by law. Where I am, the nearest ethanol free gas in any grade is over 100 miles away. You can go to http://www.pure-gas.org to find stations with real gas. Does the new engine require premium gas?

Welcome to the funny farm. Does the gear indicator change as you shift gears? Maybe someone managed to get it indexed wrong? The CMS is trying to tell you that it thinks you have a burned out headlight. The bike will automatically switch beams if one burns out. So if you are riding in LO beam and the Lo beam filament burns out, it will automatically switch to the HI beam so that the world does not go dark at night, same is true for HI beam will automatically switch to LO beam if the HI burns out. When it does this I will illuminate an icon on the CMS and light the blinking red light and light up the white headlight indicator on the dash. Of course on a 32 year old bike it could be a bad connection in the wiring making the bike think the bulb is out.

Just wishing everyone a happy Easter.

Should have learned to refine your game a bit, no reason to quit.

It does specify just no alterations to the body. At the time I got mine it said the vehicle must be "predominately stock appearing". I do not think they check, I have seen T buckets with collector plates. But my bike is very close to stock appearing.

Are you sure that it is not a valve cover gasket leaking and running down there? Take a good look above that to be sure the leak is not above the 2 side covers. There is also the twinkie at the bottom of the V that is a popular leak. Did you check for oil in the air cleaner box? I like to be sure before I disassemble stuff.

As mentioned I would use dino for break in. Break in on synth takes forever and the rings never seat quite right. We used to refer to the dino as liquid sandpaper. When I was racing stock cars the engine builder always said to do break in on 10w-30 dino and then switch to 20W-50 for racing but then this was a 725HP V8 turning 8K that got about 2 gallons per mile. Going to a heavier oil in a new engine is a bad idea the bearing clearances were set up for a certain oil film thickness, going to a heavier oil will reduce the oil flow thru the bearings causing them to actually run hotter and wear quicker. Now in an old engine where all of the clearances have opened up from wear, then the heavy oil may be better

Did you have the stator cover off? If so what did you do to seal the stator wires?

All 4 of those are the same wing located in different places. Might be fun to mess with the scammer, I am betting they are all 4 the same scammer.

OK a short class of ohm meter 101. Take your ohm meter and turn it on, with the leads not connected to anything is what your display shows with an open circuit. Now connect the two test leads together, this is what the meter will show with a direct short to ground.

In Wisconsin you still need a MC on your DL to drive a trike or Voyager. @cowpuc Also In Wisconsin I do have a permanent plate on my bike. Because my bike is more than 20 model years old, I can get a Collector plate. The Collector plate requires a one time initial payment of double the normal registration fee of $12, so $24 plus $25 and you get a plate for $49 that is now good forever. You never have to pay another penny for renewals or registration ever. The only caveat to having a Collector plate is that I can not have it out on the road in the month of January. Around here that is NOT normally an issue. IF you should happen to get another collector bike, it will get the same plate number with an alpha suffix character added on. As for trailers, anything under 3,000 lbs GVW trailer weight does not have registration or plates. Every state has their own game and the rules vary wildly from state to state. So do your homework in your state to see if there are any loopholes you can jump thru.