Flyinfool

Actually even at the high mark is to much oil. If the oil is above the half way on the sight glass, you will end up with oil in the air cleaner that will drip onto the engine and then to the ground. Your oil puddle could have easily been caused buy to much oil in the engine. 5L is way to much oil. A normal oil and filter change will take about 3.75 US quarts (3.54 liters). A complete oil change will take 4 US quarts (3.75 liters). I never go by the amount I put in, just fill to the middle of the sight glass, run the engine to get the air out of all the oil lines, shut down, give it a few minutes for the oil to drain back down, and top back up to the middle of the sight glass.

Depending on just how much power it has it may very well work for cutting thin gaskets. The thicker and/or more heat resistant the gasket material the more laser power that will be needed. Where I work a lot of the gaskets are laser cut. You will have to draw up the gasket in CAD to be able to send it to the laser.

Ahh the good old days. When I often had to ride home in several inches of partly cloudy. Ya just gotta love those unpredicted sneak attack snow falls..

Carl Yes Teddy is close, Nurses are also in teddies.....and closer....To close for the focal length of my camera, sorry, you will just have to stop over for a visit to meet them. Orlin I guess I used plan 3, I switched on the snow machine before I went in and never tightened down the nozzles so it can just spin at random until I get better. Following Drs orders is never any fun, but it is always something I do to the letter. I ain't spending all that money for a professional opinion and then not heed it.

You asked for pics........

I am home now, This one really hurts a LOT. The nerve block has now worn off and the pain pills are not doing much.

At least I get to sit in the living room where it is nice and warm and watch the better half out there doing the shoveling of SNOW for a change.......

I went in for my pre op Covid test this morning. Tuesday is lights out for some pretty major foot surgery. Well the surgery its self is not that major, about 2 hours, but the recovery will be. With some luck I may get to put a shoe on by March. The short version is they will almost be cutting the foot off and screwing it back on where it is supposed to be at the end of my leg. Disclaimers....... I do plan to be online Tuesday night after the surgery, I may still be half under so I will not be responsible for any strange things that flow out the ends of my fingers and into the keyboard. I also will not be responsible if someone laughs so hard they spew all over their keyboard and/or monitor.

I'll bring the RUM Balls.....

WAY back when this ethanol in the gas first started, there was a hotline to call with questions and concerns. At the time they claimed there would be no difference in fuel mileage. I called the hotline and was told that there is no difference, it is a simple matter of ME not knowing how to do basic math, even after I pointed out that I am an engineer and am quite capable of calculating gas mileage. their next response is that you can not just go by the result of a single tank. I then pointed out that I have a log book where every fuel fill is recorded and tracked. I was told that there must be errors in my recorded data. I tried to explain that the simple laws of physics say that IF you use a fuel with 50% less energy per gallon then you will get 50% less work done and that means half of the fuel mileage. I was then told that the laws of physics do not apply here because they are only using 10% ethanol.......? I did all of this on speaker phone and the whole engineering department was ROFLOL.

While their riding is insane, especially since they are 2 up, I know that I certainly do not have the skills to have pulled that off.

Loctite lets go at around 400°F, A heat gun is more than hot enough A torch can easily destroy the cover if you are not super careful. Steel will start to glow long before it melts or even softens. Aluminum gives no such warning, it will go from fine to a liquid silvery puddle on the floor in a split second, no warning whatsoever. Unless you really know what you are doing and have a way to monitor the aluminum temperature keep all torches away from it. Even a good head gun CAN melt aluminum it you get real aggressive with it. But you almost have to try to melt AL with a heat gun. As @cowpuc mentioned sometimes you have to go back in a bit before you can come out any further. Soak it in penetrating oil for a while and then heat it up. Worst case cut the head off the screw and that will let you remove the old stator, at this point it is easier to heat the screw boss to get the loctite to release and there will be a nice long screw to get a grip on with vice grips.

Yea Bum, Puc wants me to run the WWW overtime this season to see how many records I can break.

HA I say HA! It was only a few weeks ago you were getting in itchy trigger finger on a nice Vette with an (Choke Choke) automatic....Till I slapped you and brought you back to your senses. It would not be the first time I drove a stick shift car cross country with just one functional foot. Are you underestimating me AGAIN???

HEY, I thought I was your driver to drive that Vette to your home???? Or mine if I make a wrong turn at Chicago..... There is also the option that my truck will easily pull that car on a trailer, and being a 6 passenger truck There would easily be room for both you and Tippy.

I always thought of one of those as a deer stand.

I can not help with a a source for the connectors. With the rubber block for the wires, there is a process for getting a leak free install. Use lots of black RTV on the rubber block where it meets the metal AND where it meets the wires. The wires have a cloth insulation on them, that cloth will wick oil out of the engine. Rum the RTV into the cloth for about an inch and then pull the wires thru the rummer for about an inch, now rub RTV into the wires on the other side and pull the wires back to their original position, this will saturate the fibers and pull some into the hole in the rubber block.

Yes that stator looks pretty well toasted. It is a very common oil leak point where the 3 stator wires go thru the rubber grommet. I did not even think it was possible to get the stator cover off without removing the middle gear cover first. The stator cover is a bit hard to pull off, the magnets in the flywheel are working real hard to hold it on. Careful putting it back on, those same magnets will try to slam it home, even if your finger is still in the way. Watch which way you put the shift linkage back together, Many do it wrong and then you have to take it all apart again to do it right. Make sure to use the copper washer on the bottom bolt of the middle gear cover or it WILL leak oil from that bolt. Check with @skydoc_17 for parts and advice.

HEY! I resemble that comment......

Of course there is life on other planets, Where did you think I came from?? I thought everyone knew that I am from the planet Zorr. 22.8 Earth light years from here. Out that way ↖️. Third star to the left.

That could even be a bear scratching his back on that tree.

I am Guessing the RSV has bigger cables that the 1st gens since I have never heard of slow cranking issues. When we replaced cables on the 1st gen we used #4 welding cable. Since it is essentially the same battery starter and engine I would think 4ga should work well on the RSV also. But like I said, I am guessing.

In another forum that I belong to we have a traveling box that also ships Med flat rate. We had a stainless steel box made up so that it would be USPS proof. It just fits inside of the flat rate box so no packing at all needed. When it has jammed in the machinery it stopped the USPS machines but the box survived with just a small scratch/dent. Just a thought.

The valves will be just fine right up to the point a catastrophic failure.I checked mine at 60K miles and about half were out of spec, Yes It would probably lasted to 100 K before it blew up, But checking and adjusting the valves is a lot cheaper easier than rebuilding the heads.

One more thing to check. It is fairly common on these bikes to delink the brakes. Check to be sure the previous owner has not disconnected the left front brake and or connected the left front to the hand brake master. If everything is still connected in a stock configuration then you may have to get the vice grips onto the nut at the top of the hill. The newer bikes have a bleeder at that high point. You may want to add one.