Flyinfool

I guess it would all depend on if the manufacturer is still in business, Was this a verbal agreement with the sales man? Is it in writing on the contract? If you have it in writing then you likely still have a case for a new free roof, or at least a significant discount or at minimum a refund of the up charges for the ply and trusses. It could certainly be wort looking into. As for needing to specify 2x4 trusses? Is something smaller even allowed by building code down there. Up here where SNOW weight is a real thing, the minimum is 2x6 on 16" centers.

Oh No!!! Puc is starting to repeat himself............. While that did look like fun, well OK a LOT of fun, I still hate to see a gun get retired at such a young age. But then I have had the barrel of my SKS just starting to glow, and it is not a full auto, and that did not seem to hurt it at all. Rifling still looks like new.

What gauge of wire did you use for the jumper you made up with alligator clips? Both the positive and negative connections should be with a set of jumper cables like you would use to jump start a car. Smaller wire will get hot and melt and not spin the starter. Yes this is basically a bench test but without the work of removing the starter.

Don't get to close to Dans tent, he might use your bike as a tent poll.

Please STOP the random connecting of wires to the solenoid, if you connected from battery negative to either big post on the solenoid that is a dead short across the battery and is a BAD thing to do. THERE IS NO NEGATIVE BIG POST ON THE SOLENOID. You are going to blow stuff up. Yes there is only one wire connected to the starter, that is the positive wire, that is why I have you connecting a starter cable direct from the battery positive to the power stud on the starter motor. if this makes the starter crank the engine then we know that the problem is in the wire between the battery and the starter, or the solenoid. We also then know that the starter motor is good. the second test is leaving the jumper cable connected from positive battery to the stud on the starter motor and adding a jumper cable from the battery negative to the housing of the starter motor, if this causes the starter to spin then again we know that the starter motor is good and that the problem is in the ground side of the bikes wiring. Once you have both of these jumpers connected in place if the starter has not engaged then you know that it is a bad starter motor. I do understand how the bike is wired and that this test seems silly, but it does work and only takes 10 minutes to do and costs nothing. But it does drastically reduce the number of places to look for the problem.

Did you ever run the test 3 from back in post #17 ? I know it does not make sense to you, but all 3 of those tests need to be done in order because it makes sense to me and will give me needed info to help you proceed. Without this info all we can do is keep taking wild guesses as to possible problems. These tests will eliminate possibilities to narrow down the list of possible issues. This is how trouble shooting must be done, test and eliminate things one by one until your tests find the actual problem. Then you only have to take abort what is necessary and only have to buy necessary parts. I have never been one to throw money and/or major disassembly labor at a problem and hope for it to go away. I always start the the easy and/or the cheap tests. From what I can gather from all of your jumping so far (If I understood what you were saying) is that you may have more than 1 issue going on. We need to isolate and test things one by one to find the problem(s). Without isolating things to test, one problem could affect the results of another test for a different problem and lead to an incorrect conclusion.

Maybe he was related to the idiot that installed my sewer lines or the idiot that put 5 (yes five, not a typo) layers of shingles on my house. The roofer I hired was NOT happy during the tear off. At least those pipes are over 100 years old so he is most likely already dead, its keeping me out of trouble.

I did mine on the center stand with a safety strap to make sure the center stand can not collapse. I then used a floor jack under the front of the engine to lift the front wheel off the ground. When it was time to compress the forks I lift the front wheel by hand and put a concrete block under the wheel and lower the floor jack until the forks are fully compressed. Still easier than taking off the front wheel, brakes, fender, brace, speedo cable........ and then putting it all back together.

The kind of idiot that last worked on your roof.

Getting a spark does not necessarily mean there is a draw. It could just be filter capacitors charging up. They will make a tiny draw for just a split second. If the meter no longer shows a draw, then you are now chasing the dreaded intermittent electrical issue.

The OEM springs have about a 6 inch long metal spacer. Progressives will use anywhere from 0 to 1 inch of PVC pipe as a spacer. The length of the PVC is something that you can play with to get the ride and handling that you desire. I did not need to remove the front wheel to do my springs. You DO want the front wheel off the ground when you remove or install the caps. Also be sure to have let ALL of the air out of the forks BEFORE you open anything up or you will have fork oil everywhere. Clean the upper fork tubes very well before you collapses them all the way down or you can drive dirt into the fork seals and cause a leak. Don't ask how I know this............. As for your leaking new o rings, it is possible that the original ones were compressed from age and that the o ring clerk measured the compressed thickness and your new ones are to thin? I do not know what the size should be.

I fully understand the RED thing. The vast majority of my vehicles have been red. I love the looks on a salesmens face when I say that I will NOT buy anything that is black, white, or any form of grey/silver. How far is it from the warehouse to the dealer? How long will it take the dealer to uncrate and set it up ready to deliver? We are all getting excited for you, I still feel like a kid in a candy store just following your adventures.

Before you start poking around in the faring, do some close looking. Maybe the fairing was pushing on a wire that was causing the draw and now the the fairing is off the pressure on the wire has been released.

I have no concerns about holding the bike up at a stop or riding it. It is just the pushing it up hill on grass for about 30 feet that has me concerned. It simply is not in the budget to look at getting a newer wing or a new "venture" that has reverse to get me up that hill. Or I would have to invent a reverse for my bike>>>>>>>

You do NOT need to pull the side cover to remove the starter, it is bolted on from the other side. The purpose of the 3rd test was to verify if all of the ground connections are good, that is why that jumper cable is connecting from the battery negative to the starter motor housing. I have seen corrosion in the joint between the starter motor and the block cause the bad connection. But from your description of the sparks, it sounds like all is good in the wiring. OK silly question time. Have you had the left engine cover off recently? If so when you put it back on did you use a new gasket or just a sealant? The starter will not work if a sealant was used, the gasket thickness needs to be there or the starter gears will bind.

I type really slow.......

Fixing the truss should be pretty easy, and then if it is just a puncture in an otherwise good roof, just need to patch the hole. Should take longer to go shopping for the supplies than to do the repairs. Unless there is an area of the roof deck that also needs replacing. PS. I am betting that the rain is not done for the season yet..................

Well it has been sunny and in the 60s this week and I thought about riding the bike to work every day. BUT since the last time that I tried to ride it back last August I blew out my Achilles tendon just getting it out of the shed and ended up under it, followed by a trip to the ER and surgery to put things back together. I am afraid to try to try to move the bike out again. The repaired tendon is not near as strong as it was before, and never will be. The bike is ready willing and able to hit the road. I guess I really need to get off my dead butt and do a few cosmetic cleanups and break out the FOR SALE signs. And then go shopping for something lighter in weight.

Glad you are making progress, Slow progress is better than no progress. I have always said Beer is bad......................

No fair, you typed faster than me.....................

That fuse feeds 3 things. The CB, The stereo and the odometer. Start by unplugging them one by one to find out which one it is that is drawing power. The CB has a 3 pin connector with only 2 positions used. The stereo has a very big connector. The odometer is the bigger of the 2 connectors to the dash. If unplugging these does not kill the draw, then someone has either added something else to the circuit, or there is a damaged wire somewhere. Although a rubbed wire will usually not have that small of a draw, it will usually show as a dead short and pop the fuse. But a rubbed wire is still a possibility.

Did aliens land on your roof to punch a hole AND break a rafter? If it was old age of the shingles that caused them to fail then a whole new roof is in order. if it was something that hit and damaged the roof and the rest is in good shape, then I would patch it. If was excessive snow load that damaged the roof, then I KNOW NOTHING.........

If jumping the 2 big terminals on the solenoid does nothing, then the problem is easy to find. The possibilities in likeliness are; 1. Bad battery. 2. Bad electrical connection. 3. Bad starter. Start at the top of the list, fully charge the battery and take it somewhere to get load tested. It is not unheard of to have a new bad battery. IF the battery is good, MAKE SURE THE BIKE IS NOT IN GEAR! connect a jumper cable from the battery positive terminal to the positive terminal on the starter motor. If the engine cranks then you have a bad connection in one of the 2 positive cables. Again make sure the bike is not in gear, leave the jumper from previous step connected, and connect the second jumper cable to the battery negative and the other end to the starter housing. If the engine now cranks you have a bad ground connection. If these tests do not get the engine to crank, you have a starter problem.

Quick, break out the bubble gum.

Heck no, I can about guarantee that you will not be the only non Venture there.